Monday, January 6, 2025

How nuns in Puebla invented rompope and other iconic culinary favorites

The history of rompope begins with Jesus. Nuns and sisters of the religious orders of the Catholic Church commit their lives to the service of God. Good works are a consequence of this commitment, and through the centuries, nuns have made incalculable contributions in the areas of education, health and self-improvement. The largest private school system in the United States was founded by nuns, for instance, as were many hospitals around the world. 

These women have also made indelible contributions to culture. That’s particularly true in Mexico, where no less than three of the country’s iconic culinary options were created by nuns. Remarkably, all three were invented in one city: Puebla. 

A bottle of regional rompope made in Mexico. (Rubalca1990/Wikimedia Commons)

Eduviges & the birth of rompope

Rompope, the rum-based Mexican eggnog, was created sometime during the 17th century — no one knows exactly when — by sisters of the Orden de las Hermanas Pobre de Santa Clara, better known in English as the Poor Clares. This historic Franciscan order dates to the year 1212, when it was founded in Italy by St. Clare and St. Francis of Assisi.

The Franciscans arrived in Mexico in 1524 and helped foster a culture of preparing food and drink, since they often hosted dinners for important personages. Thus, despite the austerity of the Poor Clares, select nuns were assigned by their bishops to taste the alcoholic beverages that were prepared. At the convent of Santa Clara, this task was allowed only to the mestiza Eduviges, the nun credited the birth not just of a drink that has remained a holiday favorite for centuries afterward but has entered Mexican culture as a flavor for ice cream, raspados and other treats.

The history of rompope 

Eduviges’ collection of artfully prepared ingredients proved so delicious that she eventually convinced the bishop to relax standards so that everyone at the convent could enjoy an occasional glass. After all, she argued, “a glass a day does not harm anyone.” 

The Parroquia de Santa Clara, near the convent in Puebla where rompope was first made. (Diego Delso/Wikimedia Commons)

Rompope would eventually be sold too, adding money to church coffers and helping to spread its fame far and wide, beyond even the borders of Mexico. Eduviges’ recipe was not the first for an eggnog-style drink. 

For instance, it was almost certainly influenced by the Spanish ponche de huevo. This drink evolved from an earlier one called posset, made in Europe since the 13th century pairing wine or ale with milk. By the 15th century, the beverage was growing decidedly sweeter and more textured thanks to the addition of cream, sugar and egg yolks. It had become a nog.

The ingredients of rompope

Eduviges built on this existing knowledge base but added rum, corn starch, vanilla and a secret ingredient that, according to legend, she never revealed. The rum that gives the drink its potency was distilled in abundance in Mexico during the 17th century, so much so that King Felipe V had banned its production circa 1700, citing drunkenness and debauchery. However, its thriving popularity in Spain, where it was taking market share from disgruntled Spanish wine and brandy merchants, was likely the real reason. 

Mexican rum of the era was either of the aguardiente de caña or chiringuito variety, with the latter shipped in barrels that formerly held raisin wine bound for Mexico. Vanilla was also homegrown and had been since the 12th century by the Totonacs, an Indigenous people whose roots are in the modern-day states of Veracruz, Hidalgo and yes, Puebla. 

The ever-growing influence of rompope

Even after the age of Eduviges, nuns from Puebla continued to spread the gospel of rompope. For instance, a congregation sent to Morelos in 1890 taught the making of the drink to help optimize sales of local dairy products. The Morelos version replaced vanilla with cinnamon, one of many regional substitutions that arose as the drink spread beyond Puebla to other Mexican states and Latin American countries, notably throughout Central America. 

Of course, by then, nuns from Puebla’s nuns had become famous for creating amazing food in addition to the iconic holiday sipper that has since been widely commercialized, including the Santa Clara brand named after the convent where it all began and which still exists in Puebla.

Mole Poblano is today considered a Mexican classic. (Bombera Oakland/Facebook)

Andrea de la Asunción and the birth of mole poblano

Mole, Mexico’s magical salsa, dates back to the pre-Columbian era when it was known as molli and made from tomatoes, pumpkin seeds, chilis and other ingredients. However, perhaps the most iconic regional variation, mole poblano, owes its creation to a nun: Andrea de la Asunción, a member of the Dominican order at the Convento de Santa Rosa

Her original recipe was said to have contained over 100 ingredients, including chili varieties such as ancho, chipotle, mulato and pasilla, all contributing to the sauce’s dark color, and spices like fried cinnamon, clove, coriander, pepper and sesame seeds, which helped create its sophisticated flavor profile. However, it was the inspired inclusion of chocolate that elevated this variation above all others that had come before and ensured her name would live forever in Mexican culinary circles.

As with the Franciscans and Eduviges, it’s possible this exquisite sauce was first served to an important visitor at the convent: in this case, Viceroy Tomás Antonio de la Cerda y Aragón during a dinner in his honor in 1680. 

Chile en Nogada
Chile en nogada, which like rompope and mole poblano, was invented by nuns in Puebla. (Aceites de Oliva de España)

Patriotism, religion and the invention of chile en nogada

The invention of chile en nogada is also attributable to nuns and occurred contemporaneously with Mexico achieving independence from Spain during the early decades of the 19th century. A popular origin story for the dish has Agustín de Itubide en route to Córdoba, Veracruz to sign the treaty for independence when he stops at Puebla for a meal made by nuns of the Order of Agustinian Recollects at Convento de Santa Mónica in August 1821.

The special occasion dish was said to feature poblano chilis stuffed with picadillo — including beef and pork — and fresh fruits. Like today’s version, it was topped with creamy walnut sauce and sprinkled with pomegranate seeds and oregano. 

Chile en nogada is one of several patriotic dishes whose colors mimic those of the Mexican flag. It’s now traditionally served on Sept. 15, on the eve of Independence Day. Like rompope, it has entered into the history books as a uniquely Mexican creation.

Chris Sands is the Cabo San Lucas local expert for the USA Today travel website 10 Best, writer of Fodor’s Los Cabos travel guidebook and a contributor to numerous websites and publications, including Tasting Table, Marriott Bonvoy Traveler, Forbes Travel Guide, Porthole Cruise, Cabo Living and Mexico News Daily. His specialty is travel-related content and lifestyle features focused on food, wine and golf.

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