Since it comes in a gigantic number of varieties, you might feel unsure about how to order a mezcal. Let’s first simplify the various ways mezcal can be classified.
Ordering mezcal by agave variety
We’ve previously addressed how, unlike tequila, mezcal is made from 30 to 50 different varieties of agave. Yet about 85% of mezcal is produced from only one specific type: the Espadín. Why? The Espadín agave only takes from 6 to 8 years to mature, unlike others, which require 10, 15, 20 years – or even longer.`The Espadín contains plenty of sugar too, requiring less agave to make one liter than many other varieties.
So without burying you under an enormous pile of agave flavor profiles, why don’t we just identify some that will provide a good range of differing characteristics?
Tobalá
Sometimes called the King of Agaves, the Tobalá renders a mezcal that is found especially elegant by many, with a light, mildly sweet, floral flavor.
Tepextate
During a mezcal tasting, a Tepextate is known to widen eyes and turn heads. To me, it features a green, herbal flavor, with some describing it as a melange of freshly cut sweet and spicy peppers.
Madrecuixe
For me, a good Madrecuixe is mineral with a nice sweetness, but most of all, earthy! There can be so much complexity that, not unlike other mezcal varieties, just keeps unfolding as both the drink – or the night goes on.
There are so many more that it’s a crime not to describe other varieties, but we’ve got to start somewhere, right?
Ordering mezcal by profile
Another indulgence of mine is cigars. In that world, profile refers to strength of flavor and aroma; so I’ll borrow the term. After years of observation, I’ll assert that most mezcal drinkers are either those who like a softer profile or a full-flavored one.
I could expound as to why we Mezcal Maniacs sometimes think people aren’t, as the Oaxacans recommend, taking mezcal with besitos, or “little kisses.” But I’ll sum it up like this: a spirit stronger in flavor and alcohol is normally best appreciated with smaller sips than usual. Otherwise, it may overwhelm the palate so you’re not able to appreciate it fully.
Some of us figure this out immediately, others take longer and still others aren’t necessarily open to changing their sipping flow rate. It’s all good.
If, like me, you’re enchanted by adventurously full flavors, you might consider one that is at least 47% – or even more than 50% ABV. Those besitos may just expand your mind! Admittedly, some of these biggies can feature a stronger bite, but you’d be surprised: at times a 52% is just as smooth as you please.
If the above didn’t sound appealing, consider one further south of 47%. But if it’s under 42% and you don’t like it, it may not be the agave’s fault. There’s just not enough oomph in the distillation to register a significant flavor experience.
Joven vs. reposado or añejo
A joven (young) mezcal is one that is mostly quite clear, a reposado has rested in a wood barrel for from 2 to 12 months and an añejo for more than a year. I think you’ll find most serious mezcal drinkers are focused on joven. But if, like many, you’ve become accustomed to the mellowed experience provided by many whiskeys and bourbons, give the reposados and añejos a try too.
My opinion is that, with some exceptions, what the wood adds in flavor detracts from all the other things that many of us love about mezcal.
Ordering mezcal: the bottom line
I didn’t mention cocktails here, as it seems to me a mezcal education is better focused on the spirit itself. If you don’t know what it tastes like outside of a cocktail, you’re unlikely to appreciate its contribution when inside one. It’s common to hear you shouldn’t waste a mezcal made from an expensive, wild-harvested agave in a cocktail. But, although I don’t drink them often myself, a mezcal that stands out to you when neat will normally improve a cocktail dramatically.
This article may not end the way you figured. You see, I’m going to suggest that the best way to order a mezcal is to find a mezcal establishment with both a great variety of distillations and an experienced staff that will ultimately know how to guide you.
Sure, you’ve got a primer here. I’ve given you a fairly wide array of agave varieties to consider, you know there can be both soft and full-flavored profiles and you can take a shot at wood-rested options too. But a dynamite bartender can help you plot a course to eventual mezcal ordering confidence.
And how about actually buying a bottle of mezcal? I’ll address that next!
Jonathan Lockwood is an American Voice Talent living in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico. He is also a Mezcal Lover, Explorer, and Collector and writes the Mezcal Maniac Substack. Read and subscribe here: https://mezcalmaniac.substack.com.
Great article, thank you! So enjoyed it.
Thanks for reading, Henrietta.
I’ve talked to so many people who like to drink but say they don’t like mezcal, which to me is like saying “I like to eat, but I don’t like food.”
There are so many varieties of mezcal–it’s not possible that someone enjoys liquor but can’t find a mezcal they like.
I likewise recommend getting mezcal cocktails…if the price point is good. It’s generally great in Oaxaca. In some locations (ESPECIALLY outside Mexico) you are going to overpay for a mezcal; don’t waste that on a cocktail.
I’ve drank over 100 different mezcals, and the two things I tell people who aren’t familiar:
1) If you don’t know what you’re doing, never order Espadin. It’s the cheapest and fastest to produce and the easiest to make poorly. It’s also the only variety I’ve ever not liked. What I mean by that is, I’ve drank 100+ mezcals and liked or LOVED 90% of them. The other 10% of them were basically always an Espadin. I still like maybe 75% of Espadins though! My point is, you are gambling when you order an Espadin “blind.”
Don’t gamble on your first forays into mezcal.
2) Decide in advance what kind of liquor/mezcal you like by telling the establishment whether you want ahumado or not, which means smokey. If you like scotch and whiskey, go for the ahumado. If that’s not your thing, best to avoid it.
Mezcal is generally always very strong (high alcohol %) but you can also tell them you want something suave if you don’t like straight alcohol or the flavor of alcohol. They will usually take this to mean that you want something weak (rather than smooth) which might be what some drinkers want.
It at least helps improve your chances of getting a mezcal which doesn’t have that straight alcohol taste.
I personally don’t do either of these, it’s just what I recommend to newcomers.
Hey, J C. Thanks for that comment. You sound like me. 🙂 From my first article, (which this one links you to,) I wrote: “You have to stop thinking mezcal is a spirit. It’s not. It truly is a universe of spirits. Saying you don’t like mezcal is sort of like saying you don’t like food!”
Regarding one of your other comments, I kind of addressed it here too: “It’s common to hear you shouldn’t waste a mezcal made from an expensive, wild-harvested agave in a cocktail.”
Since, in my experience, most cocktails tend to bury the flavor of the spirit, it’s probably a good rule of thumb. But, although I’m not a big cocktail drinker, there’ve been times when I’ve had one with a really earthy wild mezcal–and it was fantastic. But I might have made sure there was a little extra mezcal in there! 🙂
I noted that you didn’t offer a description of the taste of Espadin. Is this because, as JC states, it is the agave of mass produced mezcal so its taste can be all that ver the place? As regards wild-harvested mezcal, I have tried it in the past and can attest to how wonderful the taste can be (reminding me a bit of grappa), but isn’t it illegal at this point?
Hi Mark. I guess I didn’t try to describe Espadín; right. I think for those who’ve been casual mezcal drinkers for years, Espadín is simply the taste associated with mezcal. It varies quite a lot, but even though I always discourage the overused term “smoky,” there are times when I can understand the application of that word to this variety. Other times I’d say it’s a little more “woody” or reminiscent of “leather,” but almost always with a lightly sweet foundation.
The fact that a huge share of mass-produced mezcal is Espadín perhaps has meant some smirk at it, but how sad that is. Yes, I get caught up in the other varietals, but every now and then a good, artesanal Espadín is as fabulous as any other. That said, sure, the flavor notes can be all over the place.
Mezcal from wild-harvested agave illegal? Not at all, and I’ve never heard that. I can assure you lots of maestros mezcaleros are indeed gathering and using wild-harvested agaves in their distillations.
The “Mezcal Sour Cocktail” with the egg-white is SUPERB. In San Agustinillo, Oaxaca, my cabbie took me a ways out of town to a guy who gets Genuine Mezcal from yet OTHER guys way up in the mountains. He had 3 grades and prices. Of course, the more expensive was just a Perfect Mezcal.
My love for Mexico and everything Mexican is generally undisputed. So when I recently bought a Mezcal from Costco – it was almost sold out – I thought I was in for a big treat. I had also purchased a bottle for my son as a house gift at Christmas. The “Madre” with a red label from Oaxaca and I absolutely hated it! Smells like shoe polish and tasted even worse. Could it be that there was something wrong with it or am I not sophisticated enough? To me it tasts like something that could possibly even be dangerous to consume. Or, is it safe to use with a mix for Margaritas?
Hi Bibicita. I just went to Costco’s online store to see what you may be referring to. I know for some time they’ve been offering mezcales from “400 Conejos,” and now I notice the red-labeled Espadín/Cuishe version. I don’t think I’ve ever tried that one, so can’t be sure what you experienced.
400 Conejos is a brand a lot of Mezcal Maniacs like to sneer at, but from what I understand it’s primarily because the grado (ABV) is so low that it’s hard to detect the usual agave characteristics we love. My understanding is that this company does in fact produce their mezcal in the artesanal fashion–as opposed to the majority of mass-marketed brands. When I taste their straight Espadín version, I can just barely notice some good mezcal in there, but I prefer not to work that hard! 🙂 I’m not at all surprised you didn’t like it. If you’re ever in San Miguel de Allende, drop me a message; my wife and I would be happy to have you for a tasting of the good stuff.
Good article. I love Mezcal, can’t go to bed without my digestive.
the American legion in Mexico City Post 2 located in Condessa will present a tasting in the near future. We’d love to have you visit. Enjoy our rooftop and great cuisine after the tasting. Contact [email protected]
Hi Brenn. Not sure when I’ll make it to CDMX next, but I’d enjoy visiting. I’ll send you an email. Thanks!
I found this to be one of the best discussions ever here with fantastic information from author and readers alike and no sniping. I’m going to share it. But, how do I find “a mezcal establishment with both a great variety of distillations and an experienced staff” in Tijuana? Lastly, as a bagpiper with a famous Scotch name, I’ve been exposed whisky and whiskey aficionados for years and you smoky mescal aficionados remind me of the smoky whisky ones which include me (I love anything smoky to drink or eat). Thank you.
Hi, Robert. Lovely to hear you’re enjoying this article and the discussion. I’m not well acquainted with the mezcal scene in Tijuana, but a simple “mezcal in Tijuana” search brings up a number of options. I’m guessing a visit to one or two of them–and asking some questions–will get you good answers.
Regarding “smoky,” I’ll suggest you read one of my earliest Mezcal Maniac articles, in which a take a fairly firm stand on the use of that term for mezcal. (It looks like I may not be able to link you to it, but you’ll find Mezcal Maniac on Substack.) The article is entitled, “Mezcal is not Smoky!” 🙂 Salud!