According to legend, after the fall of Tenochtitlán in 1521, Hernán Cortés and his conquistadors held a banquet to celebrate their victory in Coyoacán. Wine flowed freely, but the highlight of the feast was the cooking of pigs imported from Cuba.
Was the pork cooked in its fat? Possibly, but this origin story is just that… a story. It’s unlikely that Cortés and his men ate that on that 16th-century night was what we now think of as carnitas, literally “little meats.” However, what’s undoubtedly true is that the Spanish introduced pigs to Mexico and Cortés was a connoisseur, having established his pigs in the Toluca valley by 1525, where they birthed the national chorizo industry.
Today, most credit Quiroga in Michoacán as the true birthplace of carnitas. Michoacán isn’t the only state where carnitas are made — for example, in Jalisco regionally made carnitas are a signature ingredient in the torta ahogada — but Michoacán has become synonymous with this pork style and the tender, delicious tacos that result from it. Michoacán is also synonymous with the copper pots, or cazos, in which carnitas are made, sourced from copper artisans in Santa Clara del Cobre.
How carnitas are made
When were carnitas first made in Quiroga? There is no year one can point to. It has been a local specialty for as long as anyone can remember, with methods passed down from generation to generation. In Quiroga, the pigs chosen are invariably young and tender, less than five months old, and fed solely on corn.
Virtually every part of the pig is included, and the cooking process takes three to four hours. Natural fat or lard ensures the meat retains its moisture. Some cooks or restaurants add seasoning ingredients beyond traditional salt during preparation, like orange juice or Coca-Cola, which accounts for slight variations in flavor and color.
There are two steps when cooking carnitas Quiroga style. First, the pork is seared to seal in the juices. Then, it’s slowly simmered, with the temperature sweet spot between 194 and 212 degrees Fahrenheit. The finished carnitas should exhibit a tongue-melting contrast between tender meat and crunchy skin and are optimally served in taco form, with a corn tortilla and toppings such as onion, cilantro, salsa, and the inevitable squeeze of lime.
The importance of the copper pots
Of course, as every true aficionado of carnitas knows, this delicacy is only Michoacano-approved if cooked in a copper pot. The state has a long history of copper working that goes back to the ancient Purépecha, rivals of the Mexica (Aztecs) who were never conquered. From the 14th century to the arrival of the Spanish in the early 16th, the Purépecha were the finest metallurgists in Mexico and perhaps the world, experts at making jewelry, tools and weaponry from copper and other metals.
These traditions continue into the present day, notably at Santa Clara del Cobre, whose very name speaks to its expertise. Santa Clara del Cobre is one of 10 Pueblos Mágicos in Michoacán, “Magical Towns” given this designation due to their rich history and traditional culture. Visitors to the town can explore its copper-making history at the Museo Nacional del Cobre, or go to individual workshops and watch coppersmiths hammer out their cazos by hand, a technique that looks as difficult as it probably is.
Why is copper considered so essential for making carnitas? That’s simple: copper is an excellent heat conductor, and using it helps to give the pork its trademark crispy-on-the-outside, tender-on-the-inside texture. It’s also thought to imbue the pork with a more intense flavor.
The parts of the pig
Those who’ve grown up eating carnitas are not shy about asking for their favorite parts when they pick up servings by the kilo for Sunday, a traditional day to enjoy the specialty—even if those parts may seem a little unusual to those who weren’t born in Mexico.
For example, the stomach and skin, called buche and cuerito, are favorites of many connoisseurs. But even portions like oreja, trompa and viril (ear, snout and penis) have their adherents, as do sesos, lengua and manitas (brains, tongue and feet).
Costillas and pancita (ribs and belly) are also popular, particularly with chefs, and yes, the uterus and testicles (nana and criadillas) are likewise eaten, as is virtually any other organ you can think of. What’s the appeal? Testicles in particular are considered to be an aphrodisiac. As for the rest, it just comes down to flavor and individual preference.
When and where to eat carnitas in Michoacán
The biggest annual event celebrating carnitas in Michoacán is the Feria Michoacana de las Carnitas, which takes place annually in Tacámbaro, another of the state’s Pueblos Mágicos and a carnitas stronghold. Regional residents circle November on the calendar, as that’s the month it is traditionally held. The 2024 edition drew 60,000 attendees, a by no means unusual occurrence.
In Quiroga, the self-declared World Capital of Carnitas, every day is an occasion to eat them so no special events are necessary. The Feria Nacional del Cobre, held each August in Santa Clara del Cobre, is mainly focused on copper, albeit with some gastronomic elements.
Charanda and the spirits of Michoacán
If you’re looking for a good pairing option for carnitas, beer is always a good choice; especially if it’s one of the brands brewed in the state, like La Brü from Morelia. However, the state’s ancestral spirit is charanda, an aguardiente de caña with Purépecha roots that’s now the only rum in Mexico with an appellation of origin.
Charanda can legally be made in 16 municipalities in the state and is double-distilled from molasses or fresh-pressed sugarcane juice. The canes are often grown at high altitudes and benefit from a distinctive red soil known locally as charanda, hence the name. Charanda Uruapan, which gets its name from the municipality where it’s made, is the most popular distiller, thanks to the quality displayed during its 118 years on the market.
Chris Sands is the Cabo San Lucas local expert for the USA Today travel website 10 Best, writer of Fodor’s Los Cabos travel guidebook and a contributor to numerous websites and publications, including Tasting Table, Marriott Bonvoy Traveler, Forbes Travel Guide, Porthole Cruise, Cabo Living and Mexico News Daily. His specialty is travel-related content and lifestyle features focused on food, wine and golf.
