I spent the entire night thinking about which dish I was going to show you. I stared at the ceiling for hours until, just as I was about to fall asleep, I had a revelation: Is there anything as popular worldwide and as Mexican as the avocado? Definitely not. The humble avocado is absolutely an essential taste of Mexico and deserves to be treated as such.
Why is it called “Aguacate”?
A long time ago, someone told me that aguacates are called that because they’re as tasteless as water (agua), hence the name aguacate. It sounded like a scam to me. Let’s remember that the avocado is a fruit native to this region. In pre-Hispanic times, “ahuacatl” was the Nahuatl word used to name the fruits hanging from a tree. Another theory suggests the name is a combination of two pre-Hispanic languages, forming the word “pahuatl,” which refers to a fruit that is neither sweet nor acidic. Nowadays, “pahua” is one of the 400 varieties of avocado. My favorite theory, however, is the one where avocado means “testicle.” At your next gathering, say: “Did you know the word ‘avocado’ comes from the Nahuatl word ‘ahuacatl,’ which means testicle?” Watch your friends’ reactions and how they immediately rush to verify that fact. It never fails.
The Avocado Boom
From 1914 to 1994, Mexico was prohibited from exporting avocados to the United States due to phytosanitary concerns. Despite this, and for very suspicious reasons, some avocado seeds were exported, leading to the creation of Hass avocados in California in 1926. Following successful negotiations during the NAFTA agreements, Mexico was allowed to export avocados to the United States starting in 1997.
The flawless marketing campaigns, from the ones during the Super Bowl to the articles in mass media about the health benefits of avocados, have greatly increased avocado exports. In 1999, we exported 41,118 tons of avocados, but this year, we’re exporting 137,500 tons just for the Super Bowl weekend. So clearly, you know what fruit we’re talking about.
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The most common variety is Hass, so if you find other varieties at your supermarket or local market, give them a try. There are subtle differences in taste — some taste more like hazelnuts, others more like anise. The pulp also has some variations. For instance, the fuerte avocado (with green skin even when ripe) is ideal for making smoothies, guacamole, sauces, and creams because its pulp is very soft and buttery. The bacon avocado is also very creamy and rich in flavor.
Beyond guacamole and avocado toast
Avocado has always been a staple on our tables. I love adding it to my fideo soup, or if I’m having a breaded cutletor grilled steak, I always add a layer of avocado. I also enjoy it on tostadas, tortas, tacos, ceviche, and even as a gazpacho-like cream. My favorite sauce is green sauce with avocado. Avocado can also be stuffed with egg or tuna, and it can even be used in desserts, like chocolate brownies.
One of my favorite ways to eat avocado is in a simple torta, probably because it reminds me of my childhood. The kitchen was the place where the family would gather. When we arrived at my grandmother’s house and had to wait for the rest of the family to eat, it was torture to sit there, smelling her dishes without being able to touch anything. So, my dad would take us to the neighborhood bakery, where we’d buy a bag of bolillos, avocados, and double cream cheese. With the bolillo still warm, we would slice it open, put pieces of double cream cheese on one side, and a quarter or half an avocado on the other. Then, we would close the bolillo. And now, the most awaited moment: the first bite. A GLORIOUS moment: the satisfaction of eating something delicious without much preparation. To this day, it’s one of my favorite meals. If you don’t have bolillo, you can susbtitute it with a tortilla.
The simple torta represents what I believe is the essence of everyday Mexican cuisine: uncomplicated, simple, unpretentious, delicious, and nutritious. Most importantly, it’s about who you share the table with, not just the dish.
And if you got lost the moment you read “torta,” be sure to watch the video. We always have you covered, my friend.
María Meléndez is a Mexico City food blogger and influencer.
