Saturday, December 21, 2024

Taste of Mexico: Cacao

Who hasn’t fantasized about sipping a steaming cup of hot chocolate during these chilly seasons, wrapped in warm blankets while watching the rest of the world shiver outside? Just imagine: there you are, cozy and snug, feeling a sense of superiority over those braving the icy wind outside.

Now, picture this scene without your cup of hot chocolate. If it weren’t for the domestication of cacao by Mesoamerican cultures thousands of years ago, we might be stuck sipping lukewarm water and pretending it’s a “treat” — and honestly, that would be downright depressing.

Cacao: A fountain of pleasure and happiness

Taste of Mexico: Cacao pods
Surprisingly, this does not taste sweet at all. (Rodrigo Flores/Unsplash)

Have you ever tasted pure cacao by itself? It has a profoundly bitter flavor that can be quite unpleasant, making it difficult to comprehend why Mesoamerican cultures revered this fruit. Cacao is originally from southeastern Mexico and Central America, where it was first domesticated over 4,000 years ago.

The Mayans developed a method for preparing a beverage by grinding cacao beans and mixing them with chili peppers, achiote, and other spices, then combining this mixture with water. They frothed the drink using a simple whisk, an early version of today’s molinillo, until it was as foamy as a fancy cappuccino. They would drink it with loud, unapologetic slurps. While slurping your Starbucks mocha might earn you some side-eye today, back then it was considered extremely good manners.

The cacao-based drink was exclusively reserved for nobility, warriors, and priests. It played a significant role in rituals and held considerable commercial value, as cacao beans served as currency among various Mesoamerican cultures. This beverage was enjoyed at diplomatic events, wedding ceremonies, and other festive banquets. Throughout different Mesoamerican civilizations, cacao fulfilled important religious, social, economic, and political roles — essentially making it the VIP guest at every ancient social gathering.

In today’s society, it may seem strange that seeds were once used as gifts, offerings, and even currency. However, our relationship with chocolate hasn’t changed much over time. How often do we give a box of chocolates as a present or try to win someone’s heart with a warm cup of cocoa? There is something about chocolate that continues to captivate us, as if it has a direct connection to the pleasure centers of our brains and stomachs.

From Cacao to chocolate

 

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With the arrival of the Spanish, cacao continued to be a prized and valuable product, although its original bitter flavor did not appeal to European tastes. After the Conquest, the Spanish sweetened the mixture with sugar and added vanilla. They also replaced water with milk, creating a beverage that quickly became popular among the colonial elite in New Spain, the Spanish back in Europe, and even some royal courts across Europe. One can imagine them thinking, “This is so enjoyable; we should definitely celebrate it by donning our powdered wigs!”

Chocolate’s popularity skyrocketed. In fact, it became so beloved that during religious services in New Spain, the congregation’s noisy slurping of chocolate got so out of hand that it had to be banned. Imagine the priest trying to deliver a sermon while everyone happily sipped and smacked their lips. One could argue that chocolate was literally interrupting their path to holiness, though it must have tasted divine.

Let’s fast-forward to the industrial era. The advent of machinery enabled the mass production of various chocolate-based sweets around the world. While these confections gained popularity throughout Mexico, traditional methods of preparing cacao, particularly in the south, did not fade away. People continued to grind cacao beans, mix them with spices, and serve that delightful, frothy beverage.

In recent years, there has been a renewed interest in enjoying chocolate in a more traditional and less caloric form. You can find it on many menus as “Mexican chocolate,” and several cafés in Mexico City and beyond serve it the old-fashioned way.

Cacao farmer in Chiapas, Mexico, checks a cacao pod on a tree
Modern Mexican cacao is filled full of artisanal joy. The southern regions of the country remain chocolate-producing hotspots. (Damien Sánchez Jesus/Cuartoscuro)

Pro tip: To experience a flavor closer to the original cacao beverage, ask for your Mexican chocolate to be made with water instead of milk. Additionally, using water helps preserve the nutritional and antioxidant properties of cacao, and it may even enhance your mood and feelings of euphoria. If you find yourself in an argument, try drinking a cup of Mexican chocolate; we don’t have the cientific proof, but we think it might just improve the situation.

Where to find the best chocolate

Thanks to globalization, quality chocolates can now be found worldwide. However, if you’re seeking authentic and traditional flavors, focus on bars from the states of Oaxaca, Chiapas, and Tabasco. Don’t overlook the often-neglected state of Campeche, which also offers delightful chocolate experiences. While you may not encounter big, flashy signs, exploring these regions can reveal hidden gems that keep the ancient chocolate-making tradition alive.

Is Chocolate Abuelita good quality?

Friends, let’s put aside any snobbery regarding traditional pre-Hispanic chocolate. Tablillas de chocolate, such as Chocolate Abuelita, Ibarra, and Mayordomo, are absolute classics. Many of us grew up enjoying these brands, and they continue to be delicious and comforting. They bring back fond memories of family gatherings and cozy mornings.

Closing remarks

Make yourself a cup of Mexican hot chocolate, and if you take a noisy slurp from your cup, remember that you’re sipping on centuries of history — and enjoying it! Pair your hot chocolate with churros; this is the most typical and delightful combination. Be sure to dip the churro into the hot chocolate, as that’s the proper way to enjoy them.

Finally, I have a challenge for you: step out of your comfort zone and try hot chocolate with chili. I know, I know. It sounds potentially risky for your stomach and mixing hot cocoa with chili may seem unappealing, but this was a favorite beverage of the pre-Hispanic elite. Who knows? It might just become one of your favorites too!

María Meléndez is a Mexico City food blogger and influencer.

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