Imagine a pizza without tomato sauce, spaghetti Bolognese without pomodoro sauce, gazpacho without tomato, or, even worse — French fries without ketchup? This week’s taste of Mexico looks at the humble tomato, a fruit (nobody seems able to quite agree on this) that has gone on to reshape the way the world adds flavor to their food.
Without the discovery and conquest of the American continent, the world would taste dramatically different.
Tomatl
Tomato is a fruit native to Central and South America, particularly Mexico and Peru, where it has been consumed for thousands of years. Archaeological findings in the Puebla region indicate that indigenous communities in central Mexico domesticated a species of jitomate as far back as 500 B.C.
For the ancient Mexica, xitomatl (red tomato) and miltomatl (green tomato) were staples in their diet. Various documents, like the Florentine Codex, describe the cultivation of tomatoes and their use in different recipes that included chili and corn, resembling a type of mole. Chronicles from that era mention that the markets offered a wide variety of tomatoes: some small and yellow, others resembling cherries, and some larger, elongated, or round dark red varieties.
In these markets, jitomates were also sold as sauces or juices, mixed with other ingredients ready to be cooked. All these tomato varieties were cultivated alongside corn, beans, squash, and chili in traditional milpa systems.
From tomatl to pomodoro
The Spanish conquerors brought many Mexican ingredients back to Europe, such as vanilla, tomatoes, cacao, squash, and potatoes. While not all of these ingredients were well received, the tomato — referred to by the Spaniards as the “apple from the Incas” — was quickly adopted in the Spanish Empire.
Naples, having once been part of the Spanish Empire, and the rest of today’s Italian territory, took more than 300 years to embrace the tomato. Italians initially believed that the pomo d’oro (golden apple as they called it) was poisonous. It wasn’t until 1861, during a food shortage, that they started using tomatoes to enrich their meals, especially in the southern part of the country.
From tomatl to ketchup
If you’re wondering how tomatoes made their way to American territory, it seems that, much like potatoes, they arrived through the British Empire after a long delay in adoption by the British. As in Italy, tomatoes were originally believed to be poisonous, but one of their notable promoters was Thomas Jefferson, who cultivated tomatoes at his home in Monticello, Virginia.
Back to tomatl
Today, Mexico is one of the world’s leading exporters of tomatoes, primarily shipping to the U.S., Canada and Japan. There are over 10,000 tomato varieties worldwide, but the Mexican government, along with several organizations, is working to preserve some endemic species like Oaxacan creole jitomate, tomatillo, green tomato from Colima, purple tomato from Chiapas, yellow tomato from Yucatán, and rinón from Tlaxcala.
While not all of these varieties may be easy to find, when you explore a market or supermarket, inquire about the types of tomatoes available — you’ll discover many more varieties than you might expect.
Tomatl for your health
Tomatoes are rich in antioxidants, which promote cardiovascular health, improve digestion, and enhance vision and overall eye health. Although tomatoes are technically a fruit, they also help regulate blood sugar levels and strengthen bones. The next time you enjoy tacos, consider adding some green, red, or molcajete salsa to support your health.
Mexican cuisine’s secret flavor
The flavor of Mexican cuisine would be very different without the tomato since it is the ingredient that balances the flavors in Mexican dishes. You can find it in mole, salsas, and tamales, wrapped around fish, or used as the base for countless stews throughout the country.
Salsa Molcajeteada is a true classic of traditional Mexican cooking. Every family has its own recipe, measurements, and methods for preparing it. Here is the recipe I learned from my family.
Ingredients:
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- 4 ripe jitomates (preferably of the traditional variety)
- 2 serrano chiles (adjust the quantity based on your spice tolerance)
- 1 garlic clove
- 1/4 of a white onion
- Salt to taste
- A handful of fresh cilantro (optional, for an aromatic touch)
Instructions:
1. Roast the Ingredients: Place the jitomates, chiles, garlic, and onion on a comal or skillet over medium heat. Roast all the ingredients, turning them occasionally until they are nicely charred on all sides.
2. Grind in a Molcajete: Transfer the roasted ingredients to a molcajete or a blender. Aim for a slightly coarse texture.
3. Adjust the Seasoning: Add salt to taste and, if desired, finely chop the fresh cilantro and mix it in. Combine all the flavors thoroughly.
4. Serve and Enjoy: Taste the salsa and adjust the seasoning if necessary. This molcajete salsa is perfect for pairing with tacos, totopos, quesadillas, or any dish of your choice.
If you’re not a fan of spicy food, consider making a tomato carpaccio using the different varieties of tomatoes you find. Simply slice the tomatoes very thinly. On the side, prepare a vinaigrette by mixing olive oil, vinegar, capers, chopped olives, and a small amount of onion. Drizzle the vinaigrette over the tomato slices and add a pinch of salt. With hot weather approaching, you’ll be grateful for this refreshing dish.
What’s your favourite way of eating tomatoes?
María Meléndez is a Mexico City food blogger and influencer.
