Smell and taste are the senses that can instantly transport you to specific places, moments, and people. What might seem disgusting and unpalatable to some is, for me, one of the most beautiful memories of my childhood: tongue tacos. More specifically, I only love the ones from “Tacos Don Fello” in the Coyoacán market on Higuera Street.
When I was three or four years old, my parents would sit me at the taco counter, and I would happily devour three or four tongue tacos. They would pour my soda, which came in a glass bottle, into a small plastic bag (yes, it was the ’90s), which made me so happy.
After I finished my tacos, my parents would take me to buy little toys or trinkets. The most insignificant moment, eating tacos and taking a walk, was for me such an amazing moment.
Yes, we eat the head.
As a country, we have faced many crises and have learned to make full use of every animal and every harvest. Eating beef heads is a long-standing tradition that has evolved over time. From the 17th to the 19th century, much of the beef was consumed in dried forms, such as tasajo or cecina. The remainders — such as the loin, ribs, organs, and head — was cooked in barbacoa or other stews. 19th-century recipes for beef head barbacoa are common in many Mexican cookbooks from that era.
According to locals from Jalisco, in 1936, two men established the first taco stand in Arandas, Jalisco, selling head tacos. I completely believe this claim. My only evidence is that the founder of “Tacos Don Fello” in Coyoacán is also from Jalisco, and they certainly know what they’re doing.
Don’t worry, this isn’t Indiana Jones.
No one’s going to open a tray and reveal a split-open monkey head. What you see is a tortilla filled with meat. The type of filling depends on your preference: there are tacos made with brain, tongue, cheek, and eye. They are steamed to preserve their texture and are kept covered with plastic wrap. When the taquero peels back the plastic, the aroma is incredible. He takes two tortillas, which have been warmed alongside the meat, grabs your chosen meat, places it on a very old chopping board, chops it finely, scoops it up, and puts it on your plate. It’s like poetry. Finally, a sprinkle of cilantro, some onion, and salsa complete the taco.
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A challenge for you
I understand that Coyoacán may be quite a long way from you, and if you’re not in Mexico, finding beef heads (or even tortillas) could be quite challenging. However, here’s a simple recipe that uses one of the easiest and most tender parts of the head: the tongue.
Tongue tacos:
Ingredients:
Proceso de Preparación
- Cook the tongue: Place the tongue, salt, half an onion, bay leaves, and two garlic cloves in a large pot. Cover with water and cook over medium heat until tender—about one hour for every 500 grams (1.1 lbs) of tongue.
- Chop the cooked tongue: Once cooked, remove the tongue from the pot and let it cool until you can handle it. Peel off the outer skin and cut the tongue into cubes or thin slices.
- Make the salsa: While the tongue is cooking, boil the tomatillos until they are soft but not bursting. Blend the tomatillos with cilantro, one serrano chile, one garlic clove, and salt.
- Assemble and enjoy: Steam the tortillas, fill them with the chopped tongue, and top with the salsa, diced onion, and additional cilantro to taste.
- Enjoy it.
Amigos, I understand that asking you to try tongue tacos isn’t easy. Stepping out of our comfort zone can be a real challenge. However, consider that if someone hadn’t dared to pick a prickly pear, pre-Hispanic peoples might not have survived, and Mexico could look very different today.
If my grandparents hadn’t introduced me to atole de cáscara — a cacao drink that resembles raw petroleum — I wouldn’t know that it’s my favorite. Likewise, if my parents hadn’t given me a tongue taco when I was around three or four years old, it wouldn’t be one of my favorite tacos today. So, take a risk with that first bite. You might just discover a new favorite flavor. Finally, when introducing new flavors to someone, you could be creating a beautiful and lasting memory for them.
So, have you tried tongue tacos? Would you dare to give them a chance?
María Meléndez is a Mexico City food blogger and influencer.
