What to cook in July: Seasonal Mexican delights off the beaten track

July is bursting with summer fruits: papaya, pineapples, and mangos, but let’s not forget the native fruits like tunas! It’s tuna season, and they’re great just peeled and eaten. Or in fruit salads, aguas frescas and, how my Nan made them most, in jams and pies. Mushrooms and squash blooms are also abundant to cook a number of ways, or stuffed in a tlacoyo or gordita from the market. 

Also, one of my July and August favorites is huazontle. Trying huazontles capeados was love at first bite for me. A recipe is coming up next month, but if you’re in or around San Miguel de Allende, it’s their big food festival. You may be able to persuade one of the amazing chefs to give you a recipe as well. 

Tunas

Tunas, or prickly pear fruits, are a nutritional powerhouse enjoyed in a bunch of ways. Great news: July to October is harvest season. So they’re abundant, at peak deliciousness and popular in drinks. Fermented drinks like colonche are a harvest must. Big cold jugs of refreshing agua de tuna are also popular for cooling off. Once you peel them, the rest is easy!

Agua de tuna

Ingredients

• 6 tunas
• 6 cups of water
• 2 cups of ice cubes
• ½ cup of sugar (more if you like it sweet)

Directions

1. Using a sharp knife, cut both ends off the tuna and slit down the side. Use your finger to wriggle under the skin and pull to remove it. Do the same with all the tunas.
2. Put all the peeled tunas and 2 cups of water into a blender. They’re really soft, so it only takes a moment to blend smoothly.
3. Place a sieve over your jug to catch the seeds, then pour the blended mixture into your jug. 
4. Add the rest of the water and sugar and stir well. 
5. Serve over ice and enjoy!

Squash blossoms

I love these! And I’m not the only one. Ricotta-stuffed squash blossoms are popular throughout Mexico, and shockingly easy to make. Ready in under half an hour, they’ll always be gobbled up with delight. After all, who could resist this combo? Perfect for snacks or appetizers anytime, you may want to double the recipe. I can’t think of a more delicious way to get your vitamins and important minerals like calcium, magnesium and zinc.

Ricotta-stuffed Squash Blossoms

Ingredients

• 16 squash blossoms
• 1 cup ricotta cheese
• 1 large egg
• 2 tablespoons finely chopped onion
• 1 tablespoon chopped parsley
• 1 tablespoon oil
• 1 serrano chile minced (optional)
• ⅓ cup flour
• ¼ cup beer
• Salt and pepper to taste
• Oil for frying

Directions

1. Wash and dry the blossoms. Remove the inside — the pistil — of the flower with scissors. 

Make the filling:

• Heat the tablespoon of oil in a frying pan or skillet over medium heat. Sauté onions and pepper (if using) until onions are clear, about 1–2 minutes.
• Add ricotta to a bowl and, once cool, add the onion mixture and parsley. Mix together, adding salt and pepper to taste. 

Stuff and fry the blossoms:

• Carefully stuff each blossom. Once stuffed, they can be put in the fridge while you make the batter. 
• In a bowl, mix the egg, flour and beer to form a batter. 
• Heat a frying pan over medium-low until hot. Then grab a blossom, dip it in the batter and place in the oil to fry. Cook until light brown (just over a minute), then flip to cook the other side. 
• Repeat with the remaining blossoms, cooking in batches. 
• Place on a paper towel to remove the excess oil and serve. 

Mushrooms

Have I ever told you I’m a total mushroom lover? I could eat them every day. These sautéed mushrooms are perfect as a side or a filling for quesadillas and empanadas. You can’t go wrong with them.

The mushrooms’ hearty flavor goes beautifully with the minty citrusy taste of epazote. If you’re not a fan, just substitute cilantro. Quick and easy to make, they’re ready in 20 minutes.

Sautéed Mushrooms

Ingredients

• 10 oz mushrooms, chopped how you like them
• 2 scallions
• 2–4 epazote leaves finely chopped (or 1 teaspoon dried)
• 1 clove garlic
• 1 guajillo pepper de-seeded and sliced
• 2 árbol chiles (optional)
• 1 tablespoon butter
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• Salt and pepper to taste

Directions

1. Heat olive oil over medium heat in a pan or clay pot. Add scallions and garlic, stirring constantly for a few minutes so the garlic doesn’t burn. 
2. Add mushrooms, guajillo and arbol chili, and sauté for 4–5 minutes until the mushrooms are slightly golden. 
3. Remove from heat and stir in the epazote, adding salt and pepper to taste.
4. Serve with warm tortillas and a spicy red taqueria-style salsa (recipe from last month).