Thursday, May 15, 2025

7 places to consider visiting to celebrate Day of the Dead

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Cleaning up the family bones in Pomuch, Campeche.
Cleaning up the family bones in Pomuch, Campeche.

It’s almost November, which means the eye-catching color of marigolds and the smell of copal and pan de muertos (bread of the dead) are here to herald the coming of the Day of the Dead.

This Mexican tradition, with its roots in pre-Hispanic indigenous cultures and mixed with the syncretic imagery of Catholicism, has become more popular in recent years, both with tourists looking for authentic experiences and Mexicans attempting to preserve a custom seen as being threatened by Halloween.

If you’re looking for a place to celebrate the festivities this year, here are seven recommendations.

Yucatán

The influence of Mayan culture in Yucatán is so profound that the people here have their own name for the Day of the Dead: Hanal Pixán, which means “food of the souls” in Mayan.

Celebrating Hanal Pixan in Yucatán.
Celebrating Hanal Pixan in Yucatán.

The first day of the festival, celebrated on October 31, is called Hanal Palal and is dedicated to children who have passed. The second day, Hanal Nucuch Unicoob, is dedicated to adults who have died. And the third, called Hanal Pixanoob or the Pixán Mass, is dedicated to all the saints. It is on this night that people gather in the cemetery.

Like Day of the Dead elsewhere in Mexico, people here set up elaborate altars on their patios and family tombs. They decorate them with flowers, tree branches, candles and pictures of their lost loved ones.

Pomuch, Campeche

The inhabitants of Pomuch have one of the most unique Day of the Dead rituals in the country. In the first days of November, they clean and prepare the bones of their dead family members while they pray, sing or simply talk to them.

Although the ritual may seem extremely personal, hundreds of visitors make their way to the cemetery in Pomuch each year to observe the cleaning of the bones.

Oaxaca

Oaxaca is a state so rooted in tradition that there is no way it could be left off of this list. This year, authorities have announced some 300 events in the state, mostly in Oaxaca City and the surrounding villages.

This year’s flagship event is the altar at the State Folk Art Museum in San Bartolo Coyotepec. There will also be fairs to celebrate artisanal bread, chocolate and other foods, and an extra-large Oaxacan parade called a comparsa in the streets of Oaxaca City.

Pátzcuaro, Michoacán

Pátzcuaro and the nearby Isla de Janitzio are two of the most popular places in Mexico to experience the Day of the Dead. Hotels are booked months in advance, and even those who book early sometimes find their reservations cancelled a week before the festivities because hotels can charge such high rates.

The cemeteries here were the inspiration for the Disney Pixar film Coco. Even the fishermen who take visitors across Lake Pátzcuaro to the island decorate their boats with altars to the dead.

Day of the Dead in Pátzcuaro.
Day of the Dead in Pátzcuaro.

Aguascalientes

Aguascalientes has celebrated the Day of the Dead with its Cultural Festival of Skeletons since 1994. The festival runs from October 25 to November 3 and features concerts, food fairs and folk art exhibits and sales. The main event is the skeleton parade, which clatters through the streets on November 1.

Veracruz

Called “Xantolo” in Veracruz, Day of the Dead is one of the most important festivals in communities in the north of the state like Pánuco, Tempoal, Tantoyuca, Platón Sánchez and El Higo, a region known as La Huasteca.

The inhabitants march through the streets in costumes representing old people, with wooden artisanal masks and cowboy outfits or their heads covered with large colorful scarves.

Chinahuapan, Puebla

Located in Puebla’s northern sierra, Chinahuapan is where people gather around a mythical lagoon in the middle of town. Here they hold the Festival of Light and Life, an event featuring fluorescent lights, actors, rafts, fireworks and a floating pyramid guarded by skeletons.

Source: Milenio (sp)

With 40 pesos, Don Roberto launched his now-famous Salsa Huichol

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Nayarit salsa maker Don Roberto.
Nayarit salsa maker Don Roberto.

Don Roberto, a Nayarit native who started a now-famous salsa business 70 years ago with just 40 pesos in his pocket, died last weekend at the age of 86.

The history of Salsa Huichol can be traced back to 1949 when a 16-year-old Roberto López Flores was laid off from his bricklaying job and received 40 pesos in severance pay.

The teenager decided to take a gamble on a family recipe, using the money to buy five kilos of chiles and a manual grinder that he would use to make a salsa that he originally called Salsa Cora.

From an inauspicious beginning, López gradually grew the business, incorporated the use of machinery and changed the name of his brand to Salsa Huichol.

In recent years, production increased to 4,000 boxes per day of hot sauces that are shipped across Mexico and to the United States, Canada and Europe. The company uses about 800 tonnes of chiles a year.

Roberto López in his salsa factory.
Roberto López in his salsa factory.

Despite the growth, Don Roberto told the newspaper El Universal a few years ago that he still liked to do things in the old-fashioned way that he learned from his father and grandfather.

For many years, López would personally deliver Salsa Huichol to retailers in Nayarit and nearby states. Initially small stores were the only retailers that would stock the salsa but major supermarket chains such as Walmart and Comercial Mexicana later recognized the demand for the product and placed it on their shelves.

López’s death marks the end of an era but his legacy will live on, Salsa Huichol said in a Facebook post on Sunday that announced the passing of its founder.

“Seventy years ago, Don Roberto López began writing a story that redefined the flavors of his native Nayarit and all of Mexico. Today we honor his memory, we bid him farewell as the great man he was and celebrate the immense legacy that he leaves us with Salsa Huichol. Rest in peace, Don Roberto,” the post said.

News of his death triggered an outpouring of emotion on social media.

“The residents of Nayarit lament the death of Don Roberto López, a businessman of this land that created my favorite salsa: the Salsa Huichol,” state lawmaker Geraldine Ponce wrote on Twitter.

Salsa Huichol was founded 70 years ago.
Salsa Huichol was founded 70 years ago.

“Nayarit is in mourning,” said Nayarit Senator Cora Cecilia Pinedo.

“Roberto López Flores, creator of Salsa Huichol, which has given us [Nayarit natives] . . . recognition in all of Mexico and abroad is no longer with us.”

Source: El Universal (sp), Uno TV (sp) 

IMSS health service turns its attention to staging theater productions

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The 324-seat Juan Moisés Calleja Theater in Mexico City, owned by the IMSS health service.
The 324-seat Juan Moisés Calleja Theater in Mexico City, owned by IMSS.

The Mexican Social Security Institute (IMSS), best known for providing healthcare services, is pouring money into its network of theaters and plans to stage at least two major productions a year.

IMSS owns 38 theaters across the country and has invested 37 million pesos (US $1.9 million) this year to renovate 12 of them.

Next year, it plans to restore the Monterrey Theater in Nuevo León and the Linterna Mágica cinema in Mexico City at a combined cost of 80 million pesos (US $4.2 million), while an additional 27 million pesos will go to theater maintenance.

One of the recently restored venues is the 324-seat Juan Moisés Calleja Theater on Reforma avenue in Mexico City, where a play by Elena Garro about the life of revolutionary general Felipe Ángeles will be staged.

IMSS social wellbeing coordinator Olga Georgina Martínez Montañez told the newspaper El Universal that the idea to stage the play came from a presidential commission tasked with organizing events that commemorate the events and figures of Mexican history. IMSS director Zoé Robledo and other high-ranking government officials are members of the commission.

“The idea is to recognize figures of Mexican history that have been forgotten or unfairly remembered as is the case with Felipe Ángeles,” Martínez said, claiming that the staging of the production will mark the commencement of a “new era” for IMSS theaters.

The play about Ángeles, after whom the new Santa Lucía airport will be named, will cost just under 3.2 million pesos for 100 shows, she said.

However, Martínez stressed that the staging of the play and the restoration of theaters are not funded by resources that would otherwise go to IMSS healthcare facilities, which have suffered shortages of medicine and personnel this year.

“There is a special allowance that finances all these activities; we’re not taking anything from healthcare. We operate with our own resources and we’re not competing with healthcare or with Social Security’s other obligations. What we’re doing is reinforcing [IMSS’ services] because everything related to leisure, entertainment and culture benefits human beings, families and society as a whole,” Martínez said.

However, El Universal noted that she didn’t clarify the source of the “special allowance” funds.

Martínez revealed that another play by a “very well-known Mexican playwright” is also in the works. IMSS is seeking an agreement with the Secretariat of Culture to stage the production, she said.

Martínez explained that the aim of the federal government is to reactivate all the activities that IMSS has undertaken in the past. The network of theaters was created to improve the quality of life of all Mexicans whether they are IMSS beneficiaries or not, she said.

Fourteen of the 38 IMSS theaters have “a very active agenda,” the official said, while most of the others only stage productions sparingly.

Three theaters that are currently not in use – located in Tabasco, Tamaulipas and Nuevo León – will be completely restored in 2020, Martínez said.

Source: El Universal (sp) 

Keep the dead alive by remembering them on their special day

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An altar keeps the memories of loved ones alive.
An altar keeps the memories of loved ones alive.

Day of the Dead is by far my favorite holiday in Mexico. My first experience with it was in 2002, when I was here as a university student.

The director of my study abroad program here in Xalapa piled a few of us into his pickup truck and we drove to Naolinco, a picturesque mountain town known for its leather products.

I was immediately enchanted. Altars were all over the place — in people’s homes, in public spaces, in restaurants and stores. As we walked along the street, people invited us into their homes for tamales, bread and homemade wine.

There were carolers at the cemetery. Carolers! With guitars! The brightly colored petals and exquisite smell of cempasúchil (marigolds) were everywhere.

Since then, Day of the Dead has caught on north of the border as well. Even before the popular movie Coco came out, the southern Texas city I return home to was starting to embrace its Mexican heritage in more expansive ways than it ever had before, with altars, decorated skulls and papel picado (colorful tissue paper with intricately cut designs) suddenly appearing alongside Halloween decorations.

Who knew that the dead could bring us together?

Each year in my home we set up our altar with the same enthusiasm with which we decorate the Christmas tree. As the years pass and more people we know and love die, we’ve had to switch to a bigger table, as our collection of dead has grown.

My husband’s grandparents are there, as are my grandmother and my mother. Traditionally, the flower petals are to be sprinkled from the altar to the front door so that the dead can find their way back home from the other side to enjoy the offerings laid out for them.

My grandmother, in life, would not have appreciated her place on the altar. Like many protestants of a certain age, she was suspicious of the “magical” elements mixed in with modern Catholicism.

Day of the Dead is of course a mixture of Catholic and indigenous tradition, one that the Spaniards were only partially successful at co-opting; at least they got to move the dates to the ones they wanted. (I like to think that my grandmother, now on the other side, would be totally cool with it.)

Death is a universal reality, and all cultures have different ways of dealing with it. When I was growing up in central Texas, death was taboo, something no one wanted to talk about; it was sad at best and terrifying at worst.

Halloween was a time not to think about the dead we knew, but to have fun dressing up and getting candy (and subsequent cavities). When I learned later of the history of Halloween from pagan tradition to Catholicism’s version, All Saint’s Day, I felt decidedly more creeped out. Why should we spend any time at all thinking about death? How uncomfortable!

My attitude since has evolved considerably. Now that I’m an adult, death has moved closer and closer to me in the form of the passing of actual people I’ve known and loved, and in the reality and certainty of my own mortality as the years go by.

I’m hopefully still a long way from it, but none of us really knows, do we? For something that’s such a firm fact of life, we sure do avoid thinking about it a lot.

Mexicans don’t (as much), and I think there’s something to be learned from that. We can accept that we’re going to die. We can paint skulls on our faces to remind all of us that life is for the living — that we won’t be around forever, so we’d better get to it!

What does Day of the Dead do for us? It keeps the memories of our loved ones alive. It keeps this culture alive and reminds us of the people we came from. Feel guilty about not thinking enough of your loved ones that have already passed on? Don’t: remembering to do that is built into an annual holiday here.

I am not religious myself. I don’t pretend to know what happens after death, though as an agnostic I fully expect that we simply cease to exist in the way a flame from a candle goes out. As Richard Dawkins has said, we know that consciousness is wrapped up in the brain, and we know that the brain rots, so I have no illusions.

To me, this news is not too disappointing, as I’m fairly certain that, as a dead person, I would not have the consciousness to care. Disappointing would be getting to that point of not existing and not having done anything worthwhile.

That said, I do believe that there is a way to keep our dead alive, and Day of the Dead helps us to do that. Because while they might not still be around, they live on in us, and this holiday helps us remember that in an active way. The ways they shaped us, influenced us, taught us and loved us live on.

Death is sad. We don’t usually wish for it, but learning to accept it and not fear it (at least not too much) is a worthy exercise. Celebrate, remember and love your dead. Sit and chat with them a while.

Share some hot chocolate, some tamales, some pan de muerto, play their favorite music, decorate your face the way their faces look now.

Welcome them back, at least for a couple of days, and celebrate your own beating heart.

Sarah DeVries writes from her home in Xalapa, Veracruz.

Truckers end national strike after talks with government

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Striking truckers park their rigs at the roadside on Tuesday.
Striking truckers park their rigs at the roadside on Tuesday.

A national strike by the truckers’ organization Amotac has come to an end after talks with the government.

The Mexican Alliance of Transportation Organizations declared the strike on Tuesday, threatening to block highways in 32 states.

Interior Secretariat undersecretary Ricardo Peralta, who led the talks with Amotac president Rafael Ortiz, said a permanent table for dialogue was created to allow for the government to work with the truckers.

“All strike actions that could cause roadblocks have been deactivated by the strikers themselves,” Peralta said.

He added that representatives of the truckers and the secretariats of the Interior and Communications and Transportation would begin the first talks on Wednesday.

In order to create a national agenda to attend to the demands that the truckers have had for over 10 years and deal with issues that concern all transportation operators, the country’s six other federal transportation organizations will also be involved in the talks.

Among the truckers’ demands are the prohibition of double-trailer rigs, lower tolls and gasoline prices, more security on the country’s highways and lower tow truck rates.

Tuesday’s protests took place in some 22 states. Some highways were blocked but in many cases the striking drivers parked their trucks and buses at the side of the road.

Sources: Posta (sp), Excélsior (sp)

3 more suspects go free after raid on Mexico City gang bunker

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Police Chief García said operation was not a failure.
Police Chief García said operation was not a failure.

A judge has released three of the five remaining suspects arrested in an October 23 raid on a crime gang bunker in the Mexico City neighborhood of Morelos.

After having released 27 other alleged members of the La Unión de Tepito gang last week, Tuesday’s decision by supervisory judge Jesús Delgadillo Padierna now leaves only two of the original 32 suspects in police custody.

Detained on charges of drug trafficking, money laundering and possession of illegal firearms, the three were released after security and traffic camera footage revealed inconsistencies in the official police reports of the raid and arrests. The footage was authenticated by a Mexico City police officer.

Although most of the suspects have been set free, Mexico City Police Chief Omar García Harfuch doesn’t consider the operation to have been a total failure.

“I don’t consider it a failure at all . . . because now we don’t have police there guarding that drug distribution center,” García said of the gang’s bunker, which was protected by corrupt police officers.

He said his department will respect the judge’s decisions and also carry out an in-depth review of protocols in order to put a stop to imprecision in police reports. He said that strengthening the legal process and guaranteeing precision will be priorities for the police.

“For us the operation was a success. It dismantled one of the biggest centers of criminal operations [in the city and] seized a large quantity of drugs and firearms . . . the fact that those weapons are no longer on the street is a success for us,” he said.

García asked for Mexico City residents’ trust and assured them that through the operation in Tepito more information has turned up about other criminal centers of operation.

Sources: El Universal (sp), Milenio (sp)

‘Stop the shooting:’ video reveals capture of Guzmán Jr. in Culiacán

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'No more chaos, please:' Ovidio Guzmán speaks to his brother during his capture in Culiacán.
'No more chaos, please:' Ovidio Guzmán speaks to his brother during his attempted capture.

The federal government presented video footage on Wednesday that shows a son of convicted drug trafficker Joaquín “El Chapo” Guzmán urging his brother to stop the cartel attacks in Culiacán, Sinaloa, on October 17.

Security forces detained Ovidio Guzmán López but released him hours later to avoid a bloodbath after the operation to arrest him triggered attacks across the city.

In footage filmed by a camera mounted on the helmet of a National Guard member, Guzmán López is seen speaking on a mobile telephone just after he surrendered to security forces.

According to the Secretariat of National Defense, on the other end of the line was his brother Iván Archivaldo Guzmán Salazar, who was coordinating attacks and the establishment of road blockades across the city.

“Stop [the shooting], stop it, I already turned myself in . . . I don’t want there to be any more chaos, please,” Guzmán López says following instructions from security forces who ordered him to ask for an end to the violence.

Así fue la captura del Ovidio Guzmán por la SEDENA

Despite the request, the violence continued in Culiacán for several hours. At least 13 people, including several alleged cartel hitmen, were killed.

National Defense Secretary Luis Cresencio Sandoval told reporters this morning that the arrest of Guzmán López occurred at 3:15pm. In the video footage, security forces are seen in the parking area of a building while gunshots ring out.

“What you hear is the aggression to which military personnel were subjected,” Cresencio said.

The video then shows a woman leaving the house with another man before Guzmán López appears with his hands raised. He tells security personnel that he is unarmed.

Guzmán is then ordered to kneel and place his hands on the wall while the woman argues with the security forces, telling them that there are children inside. The federal forces continue to aim their weapons at the open door leading to the parking lot while urging everyone to stay calm.

The footage then shows the 28-year-old son of former drug lord “El Chapo” Guzmán speaking on the phone. “Be calm, stop everything . . . Tell them to withdraw,” Guzmán says.

Hands raised, Guzmán leaves the house and surrenders to National Guardsmen.
Hands raised, Guzmán leaves the house and surrenders to National Guardsmen.

When the security forces later withdrew from the house in the Tres Ríos neighborhood of Culiacán, they were not accompanied by the suspected Sinaloa Cartel leader, who is wanted in the United States on trafficking charges.

Also at Wednesday’s press conference, Security Secretary Alfonso Durazo again defended the decision taken by the security cabinet to release Guzmán.

“In Culiacán, it would have been easy to resort to a fight to the death, a confrontation without mercy or respect of individual rights and in the end, we would have won. But at what cost?” he said.

“. . . What could have become a scene of war and the shedding of innocent blood was resolved in favor of a return to peace and protecting the public,” Durazo said.

The day after the arrest and release of Guzmán, he and Cresencio admitted that the operation was poorly planned and hastily executed.

However, Durazo said that errors made during the operation didn’t justify a change in the government’s security strategy, which aims to avoid the use of force whenever possible.

President López Obrador has repeatedly defended the security cabinet order to release Guzmán, stating last week that the decision was “very difficult” but “very humane.”

Source: El Financiero (sp), Reuters (en), Milenio (sp) 

Lower house votes to end president’s protection against prosecution

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Deputy Carrillo: step toward an ethical presidency.
Deputy Carrillo: step toward redefining the political system.

The lower house of Congress has passed a bill to end presidential immunity, opening the door for the Mexican head of state to be prosecuted for a number of crimes.

The constitutional reform was passed with 420 votes in favor, 29 against and five abstentions.

The reform establishes that the president can be tried for crimes such as corruption, bribery, abuse of power, intimidation, embezzlement and illicit enrichment, among others.

“With this reform to the constitution we end the impunity that currently protects the president of the republic, which shields the head of state from prosecution and sentencing during the administrative term,” said Morena Deputy Pablo Gómez.

The reform also exposes a sitting president to prosecution for organized crime, genocide, financing terrorist organizations, drug and human trafficking, sexual tourism, homicide, rape, kidnapping and armed robbery and assault.

“Any one of those conducts that have characterized presidential administrations for many terms, that’s what we’re changing,” said Gómez, adding that the reform fulfills a campaign promise by President López Obrador.

Miroslava Carrillo Martínez, chairwoman of the committee on constitutional issues, added that the initiative aims to eliminate the apparatus of impunity that has too long protected the country’s highest public servant.

She and other members of the president’s Morena party agreed that the passage of the reform was an important step toward creating an ethical presidency and completely redefining the Mexican political system.

The bill now goes before the Senate for its consideration.

Source: Infobae (sp)

Ex-Coahuila governor extradited to US for fraud, money laundering

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Ex-governor Torres will attempt to clear his name.
Ex-governor Torres will attempt to clear his name.

A former interim governor of Coahuila was extradited to the United States on Tuesday to face charges of fraud and money laundering.

Federal officials handed over Jorge Torres López to the U.S. Marshals Service in Toluca, México state, where he was flown to Corpus Christi, Texas.

Torres is accused of three financial crimes by U.S. authorities: money laundering, criminal association to commit bank fraud and criminal association to commit electronic remittance fraud, in the amount of around US $8.8 million.

The Federal District Court of the Southern District of Texas claims Torres used Texas banks to launder money stolen from the Coahuila state treasury in 2011. He was arrested in February 2019 in Puerto Vallarta.

Torres declined to apply for federal protection against the extradition in early October, thus clearing the way for his flight north.

One of his lawyers in San Antonio, Texas, Carlos A. Solís, told the Associated Press that Torres had decided to face the charges in the United States in order to clear his name.

In an interview with the newspaper Vanguardia, Torres said he hopes he will be remembered “as a governor that worked in an administration to create a highly-developed Coahuila, one that all of us citizens of Coahuila are enjoying.”

The state government declared its support for the case against Torres, stating that although it has not received any requests for collaboration from either Mexican or U.S. authorities, it is ready and willing to cooperate with the investigation.

Torres was scheduled to appear before a federal tribunal in Corpus Christi on Wednesday.

He was interim governor of Coahuila between January and November 2011 after Humberto Moreira — who has also been accused of corruption but never charged — resigned to become national president of the Institutional Revolutionary Party

Sources: Vanguardia (sp), Uno TV (sp)

Economic paralysis continued into third quarter with just 0.1% growth

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The primary sector grew 3.5% in the third quarter.
The primary sector was the best performer with 3.5% growth.

The economy grew by just 0.1% in the third quarter compared to the previous three-month period, according to preliminary data published Wednesday by the federal statistics agency Inegi.

The year-over-year figure was even worse: Mexico’s GDP shrank 0.4% in the July to September period compared to the third quarter of 2018.

It is the first time since the fourth quarter of 2009 that year-over-year economic data has shown a contraction.

The minuscule growth in the third quarter was 0.1% below the average forecast of analysts consulted by the news agency Bloomberg, and follows an economic contraction of 0.3% in the first quarter of 2019 and 0.0% growth in the second.

The primary sector, including agriculture, expanded 3.5% between July and September compared to the previous quarter but the industrial sector declined 0.1% and service sector activity was unchanged.

The economic contraction on an annual basis was due to a 1.8% decline in industrial activity and zero growth in the service industry. In the first two quarters of the year, the economy grew on an annual basis by 0.1% and 0.3% respectively.

The weak performance of the Mexican economy has led international organizations to downgrade repeatedly their 2019 growth forecasts.

The International Monetary Fund cut its outlook to 0.4% this month from 0.9% while the World Bank slashed its forecast to 0.6% from 1.7%.

The United Nations Economic Commission for Latin America and the Caribbean this week reduced its growth prediction to just 0.2% from a previous forecast of 1%.

The Finance Secretariat and Bank of México have also cut their outlook for 2019 growth. The former sees an economic expansion in the range of 0.6% to 1.2% while the latter is predicting growth between 0.2% and 0.7%.

The weak economy is putting the brakes on job creation. Growth in job numbers on an annual basis has fallen to 1.9% from about 4% at the start of this year.

“The decline in the pace of job creation prompts consumers to act with a lot of caution,” economist Enrique Quintana wrote in a column for the newspaper El Financiero. “A lot of people see their employment with uncertainty and prefer not to fall into debt.”

Quintana said that economic stagnation will also create tax revenue problems for the federal government.

“Public revenue assumptions are calculated based on GDP growth of 2%. Secretariat of Finance models establish that for every percentage point of decline or gain in growth, there is a direct impact of about 35 billion pesos in [tax] collection,” he wrote.

If the economy declines, Quintana added, there is an increased possibility that ratings agencies will downgrade the credit rating of both the state oil company Pemex and Mexico.

Source: El Financiero (sp)