While millions of tourists flock to Cancún and Tulum each year, the nearby low-key historical town of Campeche remains a little-known spot on the Yucatán Peninsula. The walled city is a pastel-hued dream, a place that has personally captivated me with its striking architecture. Grand colonial houses painted in a riot of pastel colors line its cobblestoned streets, their wooden balconies overflowing with cascades of fuchsia bougainvillea.
This is yet another installment of our series where we shine a spotlight on the lesser-known heroes in Mexico, places that rival world wonders but don’t quite garner the same recognition. In this edition, we’re bringing you to the streets of Campeche on Mexico’s Gulf Coast.
Not many international tourists make it here, which means you can wander its calm cobblestone lanes in peace. For the adventurous, it’s also the perfect launchpad to the Mayan ruins of Edzná, an under-visited archaeological wonder unique for its hieroglyphic staircases. And with the recent arrival of the Tren Maya, this city is all the more accessible and easy to reach.
Cartagena vs Campeche
At first glance, the resemblance between Cartagena and Campeche is undeniable. Both are historic colonial port cities, their old towns protectively embraced by formidable stone walls originally built to fend off pirate raids. Campeche proudly stands as the only walled city in Mexico, a powerful testament to a past spent defending itself from relentless attacks. Like Cartagena, those walls enclose a historic center that is a masterclass in color theory.
A walk through the cobblestoned streets of both cities is a journey back in time, where centuries-old churches and houses remain standing. Both cities pulse with a vibrant energy, centered around lively plazas where locals gather. Like Cartagena, Campeche was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site for its extensive fortifications, historic center, and numerous colonial monuments.
A quieter alternative
If you’ve traveled to both cities, you’ll notice that the main difference lies in the energy: Cartagena, a celebrated star in the travel world, is always buzzing with activity. Horse-drawn carriages trample the streets of the historical center with tourists in tow, while colorfully dressed Afro-Colombian Palenqueras pose for photos with visitors. In the evenings, tourists flood the fortified walls to watch sunset with a cocktail in hand and restaurants fill to the brim with foodies.
Campeche, in contrast, offers a more laid-back and authentic travel experience. It’s a city where you’re more likely to trade smiles with a local than jostle for space with another traveler. Even travelers who frequent Mexico rarely make it to Campeche, so you can expect to be just some of the few foreigners in town. Unlike its bustling Colombian cousin, the fortified town offers a sense of peace that is a rare commodity in today’s world.
Highlights of Campeche
To truly capture the essence of Campeche, start with a stroll along the malecón, the city’s waterfront promenade. As the sun dips towards the horizon, join locals in their cherished daily ritual and watch the golden rays splash across the Gulf of Mexico.
For a dive into history, explore the impressive remnants of the city’s fortifications. The Fuerte de San Miguel, which now houses a fascinating archaeological museum, offers incredible insights into Campeche’s swashbuckling past and reveals stunning panoramic views of the city and its coastline.
The soul of Campeche, however, lives within its fortified walls. Allow yourself to get lost in the grid of colorful streets, where every corner presents a surprise. The most photogenic street is probably Calle 59, a vibrant pedestrian-only thoroughfare lined with charming cafes, fantastic restaurants, and artisan shops. Enjoy a hearty breakfast or classic Mexican staples at the cozy cafe Luan, or treat yourself to French cuisine at my personal favorite restaurant in town, CELAVIE Bistroterie.
You’ll eventually end up at the Plaza Principal, the city’s main square, gracefully anchored by the beautiful Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Purísima Concepción. Watch kids run around, couples stroll with a marquesita in hand, and groups of youngsters giggle in the park.
Cool escapes
Just as both cities offer a rich colonial history, they’re also both located along the coast and there are plenty of beaches nearby for you to cool off from the sultry heat. A short 20 to 40-minute drive from the city center of Campeche will land you on the beaches along the Gulf of Mexico.
While the Gulf waters are calm and warm, they generally lack the electric turquoise hue of the Caribbean. But if the heat gets overwhelming, the beaches provide a great respite! One of the closest beaches to Campeche is Playa Bonita, a local favorite with calm shallow waters and amenities that make it perfect for families. It was recently tested for fecal coliforms and named one of the ten cleanest beaches in Mexico. The quieter shores near the fishing village of Seybaplaya are blessed with clearer waters and fresh seafood.
A surprising city
While Cartagena remains a well-loved travel icon, I urge you to look towards its lesser-known Mexican sister city. Campeche is living proof that sometimes, the greatest treasures are the ones we have to seek out. And believe me, Campeche is a treasure more than worth the search.
Nellie Huang is a self-proclaimed Mexico-holic. She’s the author of Lonely Planet’s Mexico guidebook and has written hundreds of articles on Mexico for various publications. Read about her adventures worldwide on wildjunket.com and follow her updates on Instagram @wildjunket.
