Borough: Álvaro Obregón
Established: 1867
Location: 10 km south from of the Ángel de la Independencia
Who lives in San Ángel
San Ángel is one of the wealthiest neighborhoods in Mexico City, comprising a mix of professionals, academics and retirees. A significant number of residents are middle-aged and older adults. However, its proximity to the Autonomous Technological Institute (ITAM) and National Autonomous University (UNAM) draws in graduate students and young families, and its flair for the arts attracts creatives in droves.
A brief history of San Ángel
The area that is now San Ángel has been an important agricultural area since pre-Columbian times due to the Magdalena River, now Mexico City’s last living river and flowing through San Ángel underground. In the 16th century, the Spanish established convents and monasteries here, notably those of the Discalced Carmelites. By the 18th century, wealthy families looking to move outside the urban hub of Mexico City began building haciendas and colonial-style mansions in San Ángel. With the Mexican Revolution came the redistribution of property, resulting in the loss of many family homes.
A few decades after the Revolution, San Ángel transformed into a creative center, drawing in painters, musicians and writers. Mexico’s most famous artistic couple, Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo briefly lived and worked in San Ángel Inn in a duplex connected by a glass-enclosed bridge, now open to visitors.
Francisco de Urquiaga, a notable philanthropist, lived near the center square during the early 20th century. Rumor has it Urquiaga hid Chucho El Roto — the Mexican Robin Hood said to have once stolen a gold watch from Porfirio Díaz — right here in his San Ángel home.
A guide to San Ángel today
A stroll over San Ángel’s cobblestone streets and colonial architecture is a bonafide blast from the past. Between pastel-colored family homes overtaken by bougainvillea are contemporary galleries, trendy restaurants, cultural centers and churches that look as if they were lifted off a postcard from Spain. It’s historical yet artsy, residential yet bustling, quaint yet vibrant. It’s a bit more humid than the central zones of Mexico City, resulting in a lush ambience with a hint of tropical air.
San Ángel is great if you love: Feeling like you’ve been swept back to the 19th and 20th centuries while still enjoying modern conveniences, like excellent dining, boutique shopping and contemporary art galleries.
What to do in San Ángel
Bazar de los Sábados: No visitor should miss the famous Saturday market that starts in Plaza San Jacinto and features artisan crafts, typical street food and live music. Just steps away you’ll find Jardín del Arte, where local artists display their paintings in an open-air art market in Plaza San Jacinto.
Museo del Carmen: The former monastery known for its exquisite baroque architecture also houses religious art and historical artifacts. Beneath the main altar of the church is a magnificent crypt with original tiled floors from the 16th century. On display are a collection of mummies, discovered by Zapatista troops during the Mexican Revolution.
Templo y Ex-Convento del Carmen: The historic church above the crypt is known for its stunning altarpiece and beautiful tiled domes. There’s also a large garden in the back for relaxing.
Mercado del Carmen: Not to be confused with everything else named Carmen, this adorably charming, multilevel collection of shops and restaurants is located on Avenida de la Paz, a lively destination in itself for dining and socializing.
Casa del Risco: Housed in an 18th-century mansion, this cultural center showcases art and history, surrounded by gardens and fountains. Inside are seven permanent galleries showcasing art ranging from religious to baroque to colonial. It’s open to the public from Tuesday to Sunday and admission is free.
Where to eat in San Ángel
San Ángel Inn: You can’t go to San Ángel without going to its most historic restaurant, located in a beautifully restored 17th-century hacienda. Originally a Carmelite monastery, the restaurant is renowned for its blue-and-white Talavera-style table settings and elegant Spanish-Mexican colonial atmosphere. And margaritas.
La Taberna del León: Founded by Chef Mónica Patiño in 1994, this San Ángel staple boasts a menu of contemporary Mexican cuisine with a French twist. This beautiful restaurant on Plaza Loreto is situated in a magnificent, historic house which dates back to 1926 and is the perfect place to bring your parents.
Bistro 83: Casual and stylish, Bistro 83 features a diverse menu that includes everything from hearty breakfast options to classic Mexican dishes with an international flair. The bistro prides itself on using fresh ingredients and is ideal for relaxing with friends after a day of sightseeing.
Cluny: Head to this chic French eatery and order the most popular dish: duck confit with raspberry sauce. Pair it with the wine of your choice from an extensive menu. It’s intimate, authentic and romantic, a great date option evening out with girlfriends.
Cafetería El Péndulo: No matter which of Péndulo’s multiple locations you visit, you’re in for a treat. This one is technically in Guadalupe Inn, but nonetheless is an excellent escape for anyone who wants to cozy up with a good book, live music and moody lighting.
Zeru: If you’re in the mood for Mediterranean cuisine, look no further than Zeru. Here, it’s all about fresh ingredients, innovative seafood dishes and Instagram-worthy presentations. The vibe here is upscale but still relaxed, so whether you want a casual lunch or a celebratory dinner, this is your spot. Don’t miss the grilled king crab with saffron.
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Séptimo Ostería: Nearly ten years old, San Ángel’s favorite Italian eatery is known for its fresh pasta and seafood dishes, not to mention a warm, rustic atmosphere. The menu emphasizes high-quality ingredients sourced from local markets which are used to create authentic Italian flavors. For a true taste of Italy, order the ravioli di ricotta.
One hidden gem
If you decide to walk to Coyoacán from San Ángel, you might cross Insurgentes Sur and find yourself lost in a fairy land of sorts. This is good, because it means you’ve made it to Mexico City’s most spectacular hidden gem, Chimalistac. The name is Nahuatl for “place of the white shield” and was once home to an important town paying tribute to the Tepanecs, the major power in the Valley of Mexico before the rise of the Mexica (Aztecs). It’s lush and green, full of flowers, fountains and the occasional ancient chapel. Visitors in the know wander this little slice of quiet paradise in search of the few 16th-century stone bridges that still exist.
Bethany Platanella is a travel planner and lifestyle writer based in Mexico City. She lives for the dopamine hit that comes directly after booking a plane ticket, exploring local markets, practicing yoga and munching on fresh tortillas. Sign up to receive her Sunday Love Letters to your inbox, peruse her blog or follow her on Instagram.
