Borough: Cuauhtémoc
Established: 1867
Location: 5 km Northeast of the Ángel de la Independencia
Who lives here
Around 40,000 residents call Santa María la Ribera home. With an average age of 36 and a mean individual income of 6,840 pesos, the colonia is categorized as lower-middle-class. In recent years, its attractive prices and historic, Art Nouveau mansions have encouraged an influx of investors and upper-middle-class residents. Santa María la Ribera boasts an abundance of local shops, markets and restaurants, as well as staples like family-owned hardware stores, laundromats, and cantinas. It’s currently undergoing a revival after a period of neglect, and visitors will notice architectural restoration taking place alongside the construction of modern apartment buildings.
A brief history of Santa María la Ribera
Long before the Spanish arrived, the region of what in Santa María la Ribera was characterized by its proximity to Lake Texcoco, which served as a vital water source. In the 16th century, the area began to develop as a rural zone. Haciendas were built and agriculture was developed. With the era of Porfirio Díaz, came French-style mansions, making it one of the city’s most affluent suburbs. It was during this period that the Kiosko Morisco, designed by Mexican architect José Ramón Ibarrola for the 1884 World Cotton Centennial, was relocated from Alameda Park to its current location.
A guide to Santa María la Ribera today
Santa María la Ribera is a vibrant, local neighborhood with threads of gentrification showing via almond-milk-cappuccino cafes and upscale pizza joints. What’s cool is that these places coexist next to mom-and-pop taquerías or a moody cantina from the ‘40s. Its centerpiece is the Kiosko Morisco, an intricately decorated pavilion that stands proud in the neighborhood’s park. The park itself is a treat, with dance classes, artisan markets, and music performances taking place at any given moment.
Surrounding the center is a testament to what Santa María la Ribera truly is — a mix of everything. You’ll see restaurants that range from Russian to Italian to Oaxacan, museums and theaters and contemporary art galleries. Maybe it’s the bustling nature of its residents, the barrage of undetectable sounds, or the smell of tamales wafting from street corners, that makes you really feel like you’re in Mexico.
Santa María la Ribera is great if you love: surprises. It’s slightly gritty in a way that makes it feel authentic, blending the ultra-modern with historic, the decrepit with the restored, street carts with fine dining, and the young professional with the cane-wielding abuelito who hasn’t left the ‘hood since the ‘80s.
What to do in Santa María la Ribera
Kiosco Morisco
This requires little explanation. You simply couldn’t miss it, even if you wanted to. It stands central to Alameda de Santa María, a beautiful public park with lush greenery, walking paths, and various recreational activities.
Galería Naranjo 141
A beautiful contemporary art gallery that gives young artists a space to exhibit their work. The setting is especially lovely, expertly designed to play with light and shadows.
Museo Universitario del Chopo
Known for its striking Art Nouveau architecture in a German style, this art museum hosts innovative exhibitions and cultural events.
Museo del Instituto de Geología
You’ll likely be drawn to the gorgeous facade and grand staircase anyway, so you might as well enter. The geology museum showcases a vast collection of fossils, minerals, and meteorites, making it a must-visit for geology enthusiasts.
Ver esta publicación en Instagram
Parroquia Josefina de la Sagrada Familia
This incredibly unique church features bombastic Byzantine architecture with numerous cupolas and ornate windows. Like the rest of the colonia, it contrasts greatly with its neighbors in a charming way.
Mercado La Dalia
A visit to Santa María la Ribera isn’t complete without a pop into its bustling local market brimming with fresh produce, sizzling tamales, and various artisanal goods.
Tianguis Cultural del Chopo
The famous Saturday flea market is situated just outside Santa María la Ribera in neighboring Buenavista, and is known for its alternative culture, selling everything from vinyl to vintage clothes.
Casa Chopo
Even if you don’t plan to spend a night here, would you, perhaps, pretend you’re interested? This way, you can get reception to take you on a tour of the enchanting Casa Chopo, a renovated Porfiriato home-turned-boutique hotel.
Casa de los Mascarones
Easily recognizable by the dozens of masks that make up the facade, the Count of Valle de Orizaba’s mansion was erected in 1776. He died before construction finished and the house remained empty and, obviously, haunted. Rumors of apparitions and strange noises persist to this day.
What to eat in Santa María la Ribera
Coyota
A favorite among locals, Coyota’s casual, friendly atmosphere and colorful decor strongly reflect Mexican culture. It’s irresistibly situated on a small park so you can watch a pickup soccer match while indulging in fresh fish tacos and a sharp mezcal.
Ver esta publicación en Instagram
El Revolcadero
Seeing that this cheerful spot is connected to the ontemporary art gallery Acapulco 62, it’s no wonder they boast a fresh menu of seaside-inspired dishes and cocktails.
Jametaro
Santa Maria la Ribera’s international culinary scene is hotter than you might have realized. Jametero, a cozy Japanese eatery, attracts ramen lovers who appreciate its distinct blend of traditional Japanese flavors with local ingredients.
Restaurante Xuva
Elegant, relaxed, innovative, sustainable. These four words sum up the stand-out dining experience you’re sure to have at Xuva, whose focus on Oaxacan coastal flavors draws foodies of all kinds.
María Ciento38
The restaurant is so lovely that one almost doesn’t care about the food. Luckily, that’s good too. Dine in the gorgeous garden or inside the artsy-rustic house, chowing down on pizza, pasta, and other Italian favorites.
View this post on Instagram
Salón Puebla
Salón Puebla exudes a nostalgic charm reminiscent of a classic Mexican cantina, complete with vintage decor and friendly patrons. As you may have guessed, their mole poblano comes highly recommended, as does the paella.
Kolobok
Forbes and Entrepreneur have sung their praises for Mexico City’s most famous Russian restaurant. From the authentically Russky food to the furnishings, there’s a more-than-good chance you’ll completely forget you’re in Mexico.
Camino a Comala
Snug and tranquil, this cute little cafe is the perfect place to pause over a freshly brewed drip coffee and a sweet treat.
One hidden gem
The tiny, hidden street called Callejón Chopo-Pino will temporarily transport you to Notting Hill, if only for a few minutes. Meander down the picturesque alley lined with colorful British-style townhouses, vivacious gardens, and eclectic architecture.
Bethany Platanella is a travel planner and lifestyle writer based in Mexico City. She lives for the dopamine hit that comes directly after booking a plane ticket, exploring local markets, practicing yoga and munching on fresh tortillas. Sign up to receive her Sunday Love Letters to your inbox, peruse her blog, or follow her on Instagram.
Great article.
I’m going to visit. Thanks
I live in Oaxaca but I’m not moving to Mexico City; however, the neighborhood sounded very interesting. I was worrying what transportation is like. Is the Metro near? What about Metro buses or other buses?
We stayed in Santa Maria La Ribera for a week in 2022, and this article describes it well. It’s about a 30-minute walk to Juarez and Centro, but Av Insurgentes borders the barrio to the east and there you can find many city bus routes. The Buenavista metro station is also nearby, close to the Biblioteca Vasconcelos – a stunning library well worth a visit.
Michael, where did you stay? I want to make plans to explore this borough.
There are many Metro stops in this neighborhood. Metro San Cosme is just down from the Casa de los Mascarones.
Jorge, we stayed at Casa Mariscal, just a few blocks west of the Kiosko. It’s beautifully renovated villa with several rooms surrounding a lush courtyard garden. You can find it on Airbnb.
Thanks again Bethany for another informative article. This one is of particular interest because my father, a Mexican, was born here and baptised in Parroquia de las Stos Cosme Y Damian, just down across the street from Casa de los Mascarones. He never took me home, so now I have all of your interesting places to visit so that I can get to know where he spent is early childhood.
It would be nice to know the approximate location such as east of, south of.
I lived in CDMX as a grad student at UNAM and return every year but not familiar with this colonial.
You can see the location at the top of the article in terms of the Angel of Independence! Thanks for reading.