There are plenty of places to slow down in Puerto Vallarta, but the small seaside village of Yelapa is its own thing entirely. Perched on the southern coast of the Bay of Banderas, Yelapa is a place where time slows, cell service disappears, and you’re literally stuck between the beach and a jungle hike. This car-free fishing village remains one of Mexico’s last great escapes — a rustic, sun-drenched spot where flip-flops are optional and the town’s only ‘roads’ are winding footpaths.
Yelapa isn’t for everyone — there’s no ATM, no cars, and WiFi that works when it feels like it. But for those craving a place where life slows to the rhythm of the tides, where the biggest decisions revolve around tacos and tequila, and where adventure and relaxation meld together, Yelapa is paradise.
Getting to Yelapa
Yelapa isn’t a place you stumble upon — you have to seek it out. There are no roads in or out, so the only way to arrive is by boat. Your adventure begins at the Los Muertos Pier in Puerto Vallarta, where water taxis leave multiple times a day, or from Boca de Tomatlán, a small village 30 minutes south of PV, where smaller boats make the trip more frequently. Either way, expect a bumpy but beautiful 45-minute ride across the turquoise Bay of Banderas, with pelicans gliding overhead and the occasional dolphin sighting.
Pro tip: Pack light. Water taxis require a nimble exit, often right onto the beach, so you’ll want luggage you can handle without looking like a floundering tourist.
Where to stay in Yelapa
Yelp’s accommodations range from lovely Airbnbs to boutique hotels and jungle retreats, each with its own off-the-grid magic.
- Casa Papaya — A dreamy oceanview casita with an outdoor kitchen and living space. The rooms are basic, but the views are unbeatable.
- Casa Pericos — Indonesia meets Mexico at this palapa-topped beachfront hotel. Three lofts are available to rent, including a two-story 2,500-square-foot Penthouse with a private soaking pool.
- Casa Bahia Bonita: This hillside retreat has spacious rooms, stunning ocean views, and easy access to both the beach and town. I recommend the cabins, which have gorgeous views of the bay.
- Verana — The splurge-worthy option. A secluded, design-forward jungle retreat with private plunge pools and an infinity-edge spa.
- Santuario Yelapa: Another splurge, but yogis won’t mind the expense. This peaceful haven offers yoga, meditation, and holistic healing experiences. Plus, the geometric pod rooms are beautifully designed.
Things to do: Adventure and beach bliss
Yelapa may be small, but it’s packed with just enough to keep things interesting. Yelapa’s pedestrian pathways twist through a maze of colorful homes, local shops, and jungle backdrops. There’s no rush here — get lost, pet a few lazy street dogs, and soak in the laid-back energy.
Meanwhile, the cultural Museo Yelapa is a tiny but fascinating spot detailing Yelapa’s history, indigenous roots, and evolution from a fishing village to a bohemian hideaway.
For those who want to work the leg muscles, there are two waterfall hikes to choose from. The first is just a short walk from town and is great for a quick dip. The second, a more challenging trek into the jungle, rewards hikers with a secluded, cascading paradise.
Undeniably the star of the show in Yelapa is its golden stretch of sand. The main beach is the heart of the action, lined with palapa-shaded restaurants and friendly vendors selling everything from ceviche to silver. Rent a kayak, sip a michelada, or simply stretch out in the sun.
Where to eat & drink in Yelapa
Food in Yelapa is unfussy, and you may notice a lot of restaurants lacking reviews, or that many reviews for restaurants in Yelapa are somewhat disappointing. But trust me — if you know where to go, you’ll find a great meal (or several) in Yelapa.
For breakfast, take yourself to Cafe Bahia for its strong coffee, homemade granola, and crunchy chilaquiles. Grab a seat on the patio and watch the boats come in.
If you’re looking for killer tacos, Tacos Los Abuelos is exceptional. Their handmade blue corn tortillas are piled high with a choice of shrimp, fish, steak, al pastor — you name it. And don’t sleep on their overstuffed burritos.
I never miss an opportunity to visit Pollo Bollo, a hole-in-the-wall serving perfectly grilled chicken, fish, and loads of fixings.
Then there is El Manguito, perched above the river serving up fresh seafood and ice-cold beer. Or Chico’s, a beachfront classic for shrimp tacos, icy micheladas, and prime sunset views.
Speaking of Micheladas, you’re going to want to snag one from Micheladas Vicky, the best stand in town. If you need a snack with your drink, get the michelada topped with plump, fresh shrimp. And don’t miss the Yelapa Pie Lady. No trip to Yelapa is complete without a slice of legendary homemade pie, created by the Pie Lady herself, Chelly Rodriguez. Try the chocolate, banana, or coconut slices. But really, you can’t go wrong with any of them.
Meagan Drillinger is a New York native who has spent the past 15 years traveling around and writing about Mexico. While she’s on the road for assignments most of the time, Puerto Vallarta is her home base. Follow her travels on Instagram at @drillinjourneys or through her blog at drillinjourneys.com
