This article is dedicated to all my friends from Central and South America who, thanks to the efforts of the TV network Televisa 40 years ago, had the — I’d say misfortune, though others might call it luck — of watching the show “El Chavo del Ocho.” This 1970s sitcom is set in a vecindad (neighborhood) where the main character, El Chavo, has an obsession with ham tortas.
I’ve met many friends who came to Mexico eager to try the famous ham torta that El Chavo dreamed about. Unfortunately, most of them ended up disappointed by the actual experience.
What is a torta?
A torta is a type of sandwich made using a bread roll, typically a bolillo or telera, which is sliced in half and filled with a wide variety of ingredients. Extremely wide, if I may say so.
While you can be creative with the fillings, there are some essential components that every proper torta should have: a spread of refried beans, mayonnaise, tomato, lettuce, avocado, pickled chilies, onions and Oaxaca cheese.
The main filling can vary greatly and may include options such as milanesa (breaded meat cutlet), steak, chicken, ham, sausage, cod, eggs, tuna, turkey or pork leg, among others. The possibilities are endless!
There are also creative variations of the torta, such as the torta de tamal, which features a tamal placed inside the bread. We call this a guajolota. There’s also the torta de chilaquiles, typically consisting of chilaquiles, and sometimes fried beans.
In some places, you can even find tortas that are nearly a meter long! If you manage to finish one, your meal is free.
Where did the torta come from?
The torta has its roots in the Spanish bocata, and incorporates French baking techniques that gave rise to the bolillo. According to some sources, in 1892, a man named Armando Martínez Centurión had the innovative idea of slicing a bolillo open and filling it with a variety of ingredients.
He later opened the first torta shop in Mexico, known as Tortería Armando, located on what is now Motolinía Street in downtown Mexico City. His menu featured tortas with chicken, milanesa, and ham, which were popular among university students and local workers.
According to the Mexican writer Jorge Ibargüengoitia, Armando received a golden opportunity to showcase his creation — boasting up to 25 ingredients — at a diplomatic event at the French embassy. The rest is history.
The modern torta
Today, tortas are no longer seen as delicate indulgences with a hint of French sophistication; instead, they have become an everyday meal, often enjoyed as street food — and they are delicious!
There’s a flavor for every taste, and, best of all, they are very affordable. Another fantastic aspect of tortas is that unless you possess extremely poor cooking skills, it is nearly impossible to make one that doesn’t taste good. Whether you prepare them at home or buy them from a street vendor, tortas are a guaranteed culinary delight.
Which torta should I eat?
While every region has its own specialties, you can find the torta de milanesa almost anywhere — and it’s a crowd favorite. The combination of flavors is perfect: the milanesa paired with avocado, beans, bread, and pickled chilies creates a flawless match. Now, I know what you’re thinking: if your goal is to lose weight, maybe tortas aren’t the best choice. But sometimes it’s important to live a little, and I’m convinced that every bite releases endorphins — and that’s important too.
If you’re on a plant-based diet, the avocado torta or a roasted veggie torta is a must-try. Curious about the ham torta? It’s a classic and quite tasty — but in my humble opinion, there are many better options out there. So, El Chavo’s obsession with it is a bit of a mystery to me.
To truly experience the chilango (Mexico City local) vibe, split a torta de tamal or a torta de chilaquiles with someone. Fair warning, as we Mexicans like to say: it’s a lot of masa (dough) — but it tastes sooooo good.
Make your own torta
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Ingredients:
Instructions:
Here, the order is important:
1. Cut the bolillo or telera in half and scoop out some of the soft inside (the migajón).
2. Spread beans on one half (preferably the bottom) and mayonnaise on the other half.
3. Toast both halves on a skillet or griddle until warm.
4. Place your protein or filling on the side with beans.
5. On the other half, layer avocado, onion, tomato and lettuce.
6. Add pickled chilies in the middle, especially the carrots!
7. Close the torta. If desired, toast it again on the skillet.
Enjoy it a lot! 😊
Extra tip: Tortas are almost always paired with a chesquito — that is, a soda, but said with tenderness.
Amigos, if you’re visiting or living in Mexico, not trying a torta is practically a crime! I make it a point to eat a torta at least once a month. When I was a kid, tortas were essential to my breakfast, and even became part of the lunchtime barter system during school recess. They are truly ingrained in our Mexican culture.
So, I’d love to know: Have you ever tried tortas? What’s your favorite kind?
María Meléndez is a Mexico City food blogger and influencer.
