Saturday, May 24, 2025

Why I still love Los Cabos

Los Cabos is a very different place now than the one I first fell in love with. When I came on a monthlong vacation in 2010 and never left, it was because of several magical moments — sunset sails aboard antique ships as the sun sank behind Land’s End, dirt roads leading to hidden hot springs above deserted beaches, humpback whales breaching majestically, Champagne pool parties at Nikki Beach — that convinced me this place was like no other on Earth. 

I wasn’t close to being the first to come to this conclusion. Many of the first people I met were Americans, Canadians and Chilangos who had been residents, or at least seasonal residents, since the 1970s (or even before). The Los Cabos they originally experienced was even wilder and more unspoiled than the one with which I was captivated. 

A view of the Los Cabos marina, surrounded by palm trees with condos in the background
In the last decade, Cabos’ populations and tourist visits have exploded, sending Cabo San Lucas and San José del Cabo from towns to cities practically overnight. (Shutterstock)

They had already seen profound changes, but nothing like what was coming. Between 2010 and 2020, the population of Cabo San Lucas more than tripled, growing from 68,463 to 202,694. The Los Cabos municipality in toto exploded: Its population increased by more than 50% between 2010 and 2025, with the number of tourists growing by about 300%.

Cabo San Lucas and San José del Cabo went from towns to cities in the blink of an eye. Along with city size, they soon acquired city problems, starting with housing issues and outdated roads teeming with traffic. Many of the ocean views that used to be ubiquitous started disappearing behind the new resorts and other buildings being built. That trend continues, by the way. Construction is distressingly constant.

Despite these transformative and, from my perspective, not exactly welcome changes, I still love Los Cabos and can’t imagine living anywhere else. Here are a few reasons why.

Wow-factor moments still happen all the time

Los Cabos is unique geographically. Bounded by two major bodies of water — the Gulf of California and the Pacific Ocean — it also boasts a variety of land-based terrains, from desert and mountains to beaches and palm-tree-filled oases.

Los Cabos beach at sunset
Despite the changes Cabos has gone through, there are still plenty of magical moments still to be found across the cape. (Kurt Nichols/Shutterstock)

The upshot is that hardly a day goes by that I’m not in awe of something. Sometimes it’s a sight I’ve seen before, like a 40-foot-tall Cardón cactus, whales breaching or spy hopping, or whale sharks swimming just below the surface. Other times, it’s just the magnificence of the views from places like Cerro del Vigía, Cerro de la Zeta, or the Mirador Santiago de Yola. Or being on the road with the ocean on one side and mountains on the other. 

Seeing the sun come up from El Vigía never fails to inspire, nor does watching the sun set over Land’s End. You can experience the latter at a few restaurants — notably, Manta and Sunset Monalisa — but it’s even better on the water, preferably on a sailboat. When I first got to Los Cabos, I worked briefly for the Sunderland, a 1885 gaff-rigged schooner. That was a boat on which to watch a sunset … until it sank, anyway. 

Marlin fishing put Los Cabos on the map. However, there’s wildlife of all kinds here. Yes, that categorization includes a few residents, but despite their occasional quirks and colorful eccentricities, they are great neighbors. So are the whales, sharks, sea turtles, sea lions, and the bewildering abundance of fish. 

Look up and you’ll see frigate birds, turkey buzzards and the occasional hawk. Wander around on land and you’re bound to encounter lizards, scorpions, road runners and who knows what else … small deer if you climb into the Sierra de la Laguna, free-range Chinampo cattle in the foothills. 

Los Cabos isn’t one place, it’s many

It’s hard to get bored in Los Cabos when you have so many day trip options … including in the neighboring municipality of La Paz. Several amazing destinations — Cabo San Lucas and San José del Cabo, of course, but also La Paz, Todos Santos, Cabo Pulmo, Los Barriles, and El Triunfo — are two hours or less away by car. 

Each of these places has its distinct charms and attractions. La Paz, the state capital, is home to arts, culture, some dining and drinking options worth driving for, a three-mile-long malecón, and some of the most spectacular beaches in Mexico. Todos Santos has the best boutique hotels in Baja, Cabo Pulmo has some of the best diving in North America, and the old mining town of El Triunfo is also worth visiting for its festivals and museums, and for the winding, picturesque roads through the foothills of the Sierra de la Laguna that it takes to get there. 

That’s not even mentioning Santiago, El Pescadero, or Los Cerritos — the latter home to a Pacific Coast beach where I’ve spent many an enjoyable day … you get the picture. There’s a lot to do here, and a lot of amazing places, including a few I didn’t mention. 

You don’t have to be a tourist to enjoy world-class amenities

The upside of all the development in recent years is a host of incredible dining destinations. When I moved to Los Cabos 15 years ago, the idea that its restaurants would one day be recognized by the Michelin Guide was laughable. No disrespect is intended to El Pollo de Oro or El Torito, two places I used to eat at all the time and still occasionally do. The food is great at both, and many other old-school haunts.

While there are fine dining choices in Cabos at resorts targeted at tourists, a wealth of farm-to-table and fine dining options aimed at residents have developed here over the years as well. (Los Cabos Tourism Board)

But the options are now vastly expanded, and that goes not just for eateries, but also for spas, swimming pools, and golf courses. Los Cabos locals love a good day-pass option, and with good reason: There are more great hotels here than you can shake a stick at. Spending a day poolside at any of them is always fun, as is the chance to enjoy food at 13 Michelin Guide-recognized restaurants.

We likely have too many golf courses, considering Baja California Sur simultaneously has more coastline and less fresh water than any other state in Mexico. But we have 18 and counting, many of which feature world-class layouts from big names like Jack Nicklaus or Tiger Woods, and at least three of which have been rated among the top 100 in the world. If you love to play, which I do, these are pretty sweet amenities … and yet another in a long list of reasons to love Los Cabos.

Chris Sands is the Cabo San Lucas local expert for the USA Today travel website 10 Best, writer of Fodor’s Los Cabos travel guidebook and a contributor to numerous websites and publications, including Tasting Table, Marriott Bonvoy Traveler, Forbes Travel Guide, Porthole Cruise, Cabo Living and Mexico News Daily. His specialty is travel-related content and lifestyle features focused on food, wine and golf.

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