Monday, June 9, 2025

Inside a Mexico City supper club — where cuisine and community collide

There’s something special about a supper club, which is probably why the concept is taking off in Mexico City. Whether you show up solo, bring a date, or gather a few friends, you’ll find yourself part of a communal table, sharing dishes and stories with strangers who quickly start to feel like family. The menu is usually set and served family style, and the whole setup feels less like dining out and more like coming home for dinner.

Supper clubs are all about breaking bread together, and there’s a certain magic in the way a shared meal can turn a room full of strangers into friends. In a world where we’re craving genuine connection and new experiences, supper clubs deliver both, offering a taste of global food culture in a relaxed, welcoming space.

A chef plating up food
Nogal Nogal offers great cuisine in non-traditional settings. (Nogal Nogal/Facebook)

While the idea isn’t new — supper clubs have roots in the Prohibition era — they’ve made a big comeback since the pandemic. Chefs love them for the freedom to experiment with seasonal ingredients and try out comfort food with a twist. Guests love them for the chance to be surprised and delighted by dishes you won’t find on a typical menu. At a recent pop-up in Mexico City, for example, Israeli chef Ayuni scattered the table with whole salt-baked fish, picanha steak with pistachio chimichurri, creamy hummus, and roasted cauliflower. There were no rules or etiquette — just forks, conversation, and a lot of laughter as everyone dove in.

That sense of innovation and togetherness runs through many supper clubs. Social media and word of mouth keep the seats filled, and for chefs and staff, these events are a refreshing break from the grind of traditional restaurants. Nogal Nogal, a standout supper club in Mexico City’s Roma Norte, is a perfect example. Owners Rebeca Ortiz and Xavier Pinero started out during the pandemic selling pecan pies and Neapolitan pizza. After a stint in San Miguel de Allende and a residency in Puerto Escondido, they brought their supper club concept back to Mexico City, eventually settling in a cozy, open-plan space where guests and hosts share the same room and the same sense of belonging.

Food has always been central to my life, though being a chef is a more recent chapter. My earliest memories are of my grandmother’s unforgettable cooking and the grand Cantonese banquets at family weddings — fried crab claws, abalone in XO sauce, and shark fin soup. As a kid, I peeled shrimp at age seven and later spent my teenage years working in my parents’ Chinese takeaway and fish and chip shop, peeling potatoes and wrapping up orders while my friends were out having fun. My parents hoped I’d choose a different path, and culinary school never called to me, but my love for food never faded. Years of travel, a decade in New York, and a passion for hole-in-the-wall eateries have all shaped my palate and my approach to cooking. Now, as a sous chef at Nogal Nogal, I get to see the food world from a new angle, in a city that lives and breathes great cuisine.

At Nogal Nogal, supper club nights are intimate and intentional — one seating, a set guest list, and a focus on quality over quantity. I love assembling the plates that chef Xavier dreams up, like our cauliflower carbonara or crispy Brussels sprouts in Caesar dressing. The vibe is casual, but the creativity is serious, and we’re always pushing ourselves to make every dish memorable.

 

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Before guests arrive, the kitchen hums with last-minute prep — slicing sashimi-grade tuna, roasting cauliflower, steaming flan, baking pecan pies, and whipping cheesecake to fluffy perfection. There’s a little nervous energy as people settle in at the communal table, but a glass of natural wine and a warm welcome quickly melt any awkwardness.

Dinner usually starts around 8 p.m., with platters of homemade ricotta with confit garlic, heirloom tomato panzanella, citrus salad with ginger and pistachio, picanha steak, cauliflower carbonara, and a cloud of whipped cheesecake with fresh strawberries for dessert. Afterward, guests linger over wine, chatting with the owners and soaking up the hospitality that makes Mexican dining so special.

In a city packed with everything from street food to Michelin-starred restaurants, supper clubs offer something different: a chance to connect, to share, and to remember why food brings us together in the first place. If you’re looking for more than just a meal — if you want an experience that feels like home, even when you’re far from it — pull up a chair at a supper club. You might just leave with a few new friends and a story worth telling.

Simon Chung is a chef at Mexico City’s Nogal Nogal restaurant

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