Tepoztlán: So close to the capital, yet so far from the urban bustle. With each visit to this charming Pueblo Mágico in Morelos, my dependency grows. Its perfect balance of spiritual energy and pueblo culture makes Tepoz, as it’s so fondly called by locals, a delightful escape from the city.
Tucked at the base of the towering Tepozteco mountain, there are just enough experiences here to fill a memorable weekend getaway: hiking to waterfalls, exploring ancient pyramids, purifying yourself in a traditional temazcal ceremony and wrapping it all up with a creative cocktail in a lush greenhouse-turned-restaurant. Whether you’re a Mexico City resident seeking mountain air or an international traveler wanting authentic culture, Tepoztlán is sure to deliver.
How to get to Tepoztlán from Mexico City
ADO’s OCC line runs up to 23 departures daily from the Taxqueña terminal, reaching Tepoztlán in 1.5 hours on a good day or up to 2 hours with traffic. Tickets start at 140 pesos. Rideshares are also an option — just let your driver know your destination and expect to pay tolls for both the ride there and the return trip.
When to visit: The best time for a getaway to Tepoztlán
Visit during the June-to-September rainy season for waterfall sightings — hike in the mornings for the best experience. The dry season offers perfect outdoor weather and clear mountain views. Any time works, but pack accordingly: layers and rain gear for wet season, light clothes and hats for dry season.
1. Hike to the Tepozteco pyramid
The classic Tepoztlán experience. This moderate 2-hour hike up the Tepozteco mountain rewards you with a 12th-century pyramid at the top and panoramic valley views. Start early to beat the crowds and heat. For something further off the beaten path, hire a local guide to take you to the “portal” — your guide will know exactly what you’re referring to when you ask for this undercover site.
2. Experience a traditional temazcal ceremony
This millennia-old traditional Mesoamerican sauna cleanses you in all the ways: physically, mentally, emotionally and spiritually. Hostal de la Luz offers my preferred temazcal experience — ask for Andrés to lead you through the ceremony. It’s intense but transformative, perfect for those seeking a deeper connection.
3. Explore the New Tepoztlán Market
From the bright colors to the mouthwatering scents, this three-level market completed in 2024 is a feast for the senses. Start your meandering with a fresh fruit juice or a steaming espresso made using beans from Chiapas. Next, try itacates, Tepoztlán’s famous triangular fried masa, topped with everything from nopales to grasshoppers. The market perfectly captures this Pueblo Mágico’s blend of tradition and modern Mexican culture.
4. Sample authentic Tepoztlán cuisine
Tepoztlán’s cuisine extends beyond the charming markets. Around town, don’t skip a visit to Tepoznieves — a local ice cream shop with over 100 flavors — and a bite of cecina, the traditional dish of Morelos. These aren’t just tourist foods; they’re what locals actually eat. The flavors here reflect the town’s mountain setting and Indigenous heritage.
5. Visit the Museo de Arte Prehispánico Carlos Pellicer
This compact museum houses impressive ancient artifacts that tell the story of the region’s pre-Columbian cultures, once the private collection of poet Carlos Pellicer. It’s a great activity for a rainy afternoon or when the sun is at its peak, adding some cultural context to your Tepoztlán experience.
6. Relax at Amomoxtli
Book a day pass at what I call the Soho House of Tepoztlán. This hidden gem is tucked away among lush pine and tropical plants, offering spa treatments that incorporate ancestral techniques and local herbs harvested from the property’s onsite gardens. The service is top-notch and you won’t find a better spa experience in town.
7. Have cocktails at Margarita Concept Garden
This unique greenhouse-turned-restaurant has become the social hub for trendy visitors from Mexico City. The setting is Instagram-worthy, but the drinks, food and atmosphere are the real draw. Try the Ambar, a spiced martini of mezcal, Lillet and Ancho Reyes with a side of homemade gnocchi.
8. Wander the Historic Ex-Convent of the Nativity
This Unesco World Heritage site showcases 16th-century frescoes of fantastical creatures and detailed colonial architecture. It’s a peaceful contrast to the town’s bustling energy and offers insight into Tepoztlán’s layered history, and its artsy entrance made entirely of seeds gives it that unique flair you’ll soon come to expect in this part of the world.
9. Discover local street art and artisan culture
Tepoztlán’s murals and artisan shops reflect the town’s creative spirit. Wander the cobblestone streets to find handcrafted jewelry textiles and artwork that capture the region’s mystical energy. Paintings and lamps made from traditional amate paper, crafted from tree bark, are an ideal souvenir to take home.
10. Take a nature walk to Amatlán
This nearby village offers excellent hiking opportunities and a chance to explore beyond central Tepoztlán. Local guides can show you hidden waterfalls and share stories about the area’s spiritual significance. Amatlán is the alleged hometown of Quetzacoatl, the Mesoamerican feathered serpent god of wind, wisdom and creation.
Where to stay in Tepoztlán
Casa Fernanda: A 5-star boutique hotel for its breezy design, excellent restaurant and unpretentious pool. It’s like staying at your rich friend’s country villa with easy town center access.
Amomoxtli: Another luxury option with excellent service and the best spa in town, tucked among lush pine and tropical plants. Within its luxe garden property is the only Casa Dragones tasting house outside of San Miguel de Allende.
Hostal de la Luz: Perfect for spiritual seekers, this sprawling Amatlán property offers both traditional treatments, like temazcals, distinctive ones, like labyrinths and gamma chambers. The views are breathtaking.
La Buena Vibra Wellness Resort & Spa: A peaceful mid-range retreat with beautiful gardens, full-service spa and renowned Sunday breakfast buffet. Great wellness atmosphere at a more accessible price point.
Hotel Teocalli: Excellent budget choice near the center with relaxed vibes, pool, gardens and on-site massages. Clean, comfortable rooms in an ideal location for exploring on foot.
Tepoztlán has this way of sticking with you long after you’ve returned to the city. Maybe it’s the mountain air, the energy that locals swear by, or simply the fact that everything feels more manageable at a slower pace. Whatever it is, I keep finding excuses to go back. Pack your hiking boots, a swimsuit and an open mind: Tepoz is waiting to work its magic on you too.
Bethany Platanella is a travel planner and lifestyle writer based in Mexico City. She lives for the dopamine hit that comes directly after booking a plane ticket, exploring local markets, practicing yoga and munching on fresh tortillas. Sign up to receive her Sunday Love Letters to your inbox, peruse her blog or follow her on Instagram.
