Let me start with this disclaimer: I don’t like driving and I never really have. Even in my native Midwestern United States, where the highways are flat, wide, easy to navigate, and speed bump-free, I still don’t like driving. I guess I have always been a somewhat impatient person. so I never found myself able to just “sit back and enjoy the ride” of a road trip.
Living in Mexico, that hasn’t changed. When my wife and I travel around the country, which we do frequently, we have always taken either a bus or an airplane to our destination. But as I recently hit an important (albeit, slightly depressing) birthday milestone, we were brainstorming how to celebrate and an idea occurred to us: What if we took a road trip to some parts of Mexico we have not yet discovered? It seemed like a good idea; some places are hard to get to by bus or flight, and we thought we needed some downtime to just chat in the car on the road. So we did it.
How did it go? Well, we survived the trip and I am still married … but barely. Here are my top eight observations on taking a Mexican road trip:
1. Planning a road trip in Mexico requires a very different mindset than in the U.S. or Canada. Driving should be done during daylight hours and the distance covered each day will be significantly less. Every spring break, my family would pack up the family van in Wisconsin and drive non-stop through the night for a total of 20 hours to go on a ski trip in Colorado. You are not going to do that in Mexico — neither the all-nighter nor the ski trip!
2. Depending on the type of driver you are, you most likely will not find your time on the road in Mexico very relaxing. There are sudden lane changes, frequent toll booths, extremely sudden lane closures due to construction, speed bumps (of course!), sharp curves, and often double-load semis driving as slow as 10 mph. The result: You likely will not even want the distraction of music, a podcast, a coffee or a talking spouse, and will likely have your hands locked in the “10 and 2” position the entire time.
3. Baños, food stops and gas stations require careful planning. This is a very big difference from a north-of-the-border road trip. In the U.S. or Canada, we are used to multiple gas stations, restaurants of all types, and acceptable bathrooms at literally every single exit. A highway driver north of the border is rarely more than a mile or two away from truck stop hot dogs, trucker caps, decent bathrooms and junk food. In Mexico, we often would go for 30-plus minutes without a gas station and for several hours without encountering food I would want to eat, beyond Oxxo-type provisions or a baño I couldn’t ask my wife to use without fear of a divorce.
4. Highway driving in Mexico is generally safe, if you are smart and take a lot of extra precautions. Not all states and not all areas are safe. Smaller roads can be risky. Night driving is unsafe. Hanging out at truck stops can be unsafe. But if you are smart — drive in daylight hours, use your Google Maps app, and drive carefully at speeds much slower than you would up north — you will very likely be just fine.
5. Frequent comments I have heard from gringos to “beware of the federales” seem to me to be a lot of hyperbole. I do not and would not drive in Mexico City as I have heard many stories of traffic police shakedowns. But on this road trip, we never saw a police car “trying to radar-gun a speeding car.” In fact, we saw very few police cars on the roads the entire drive. In full disclosure, I have been stopped by Mexican police close to a dozen times in my nearly 30 years of driving in the country (always with rental cars driving short distances and most of the time because I did something wrong). However, not one single time — not one — have I been asked to pay a bribe or received a ticket. That being said, I am absolutely certain that my fluent Spanish has helped me get out of such a situation more than a few times.
6. The scenery on your Mexican road trip will likely be varied and quite stunning. Given the country’s many mountains, often rapidly changing climate zones and prevalence of microclimates, we would see incredible changes in trees and vegetation in just a few hours. What makes the actual driving stressful is precisely what makes the scenery so beautiful: Driving in mountains is never easy!
7. Toll roads are the way to go. Yes, they are expensive, very expensive, but they really are the only logical option. Our road trip of approximately 25 hours of total “time on the road” cost over US $200 in tolls. However, toll roads are much faster, much safer, and in case of a breakdown of any type, would be much more conducive to getting help. Note: I have gotten two flat tires in Mexico (actually both in the same 24 hour period) and in both cases got outstanding and affordable help despite not being on toll roads at the time. Another way to look at toll roads in Mexico to help “ease the pain” of the cost is to remember that they are a pretty good model of “those that use them, pay for them” versus charging higher taxes for everyone to help pay for them — regardless of the usage. Does this make for a better model? … I’m not sure.
8. I love my wife and have enjoyed every minute of our 21 year marriage, but that still doesn’t mean we are cut out for road trips. After this one, we found ourselves thinking that perhaps why we still love each other is precisely because we haven’t taken road trips together. We had a great time and will for sure do shorter road trips again, but definitely reconfirmed that we are more of a “bus and airplane” couple!
So where did we go? We started in our hometown of San Miguel de Allende, drove through the state of Guanajuato to Ajijic (Lake Chapala) in Jalisco. Then we drove down through Colima to the beach town of La Manzanilla, up the coast to Puerto Vallarta, over to Guadalajara, and then back home to SMA via León — all in 10 days.
I will write more on some of my non-driving observations of the journey in my next column.
Do you agree with my thoughts on driving in Mexico? Have you had similar good or bad experiences on the highways? Did you test a marriage or friendship with a Mexican road trip? Please share in the comments!
Travis Bembenek is the CEO of Mexico News Daily and has been living, working or playing in Mexico for over 27 years.
Congratulations, Great Fotos, Tan Guapo/a and gives me confidence that it can be done
I like what you said about your fluent Spanish helps. Travis to each his own but for the price of tolls you can fly return to Vegas or LA. Permanent people like yourselves should want to get out of Mexico as much as possible.
To me Mexico is where you get a big house near the Guadalajara airport and because you live here for free with all your extra money are never in Mexico. As I said, to each his own. Best to everyone.
So what you’re saying is YOU take the bus, and she take a plane?
Sadly, I can confirm that night driving is out of the question. And be very cautious in the mountains east of CDMX in what I now know is referred to as La Zona Roja. After the shakedown of 4,000 pesos in the state of Mex (I wish to avoid CDMX now) I had a vehicle breakdown north of Puebla… and knew better, This, while moving all my things from mazatlan to the yucatan. Even on the autopista, dont let things deteriorate and keep thinking you can manage the situation. I think of historic events like Three Mile Island or The Space Shuttle disaster where the brightest of minds could not manage a Cluster. … You can’t either. Bottom line? Armed robbery, loss of money and electronics. But I’m alive. Yes friends, there is such a thing as PTSD. And when you do travel, you know what you’re supposed to do with your $ and important things. It is partly on me I allowed it. In the future, I will always attempt to bus or fly. 35 hours on the road and THAT is – how do you politely say – UNPALATABLE. Still loving Mex. And this could have happened in Detroit or South Chicago. DO NOT BE STUPID when things go south. Paz!
I forgot to mention … the PTSD probably came from two 9mm gun shots close to me (the cops confirmed when they found the shells later). Again, I blame myself and 2 months later still have worse sleep issues and I’m dealing with it.
Over the years I have driven rental cars from CDMX to Veracruz and back; Zacatecas to Aguascalientes and to San Miguel de Allende. Many, many times from/to CDMX to Leon and San Miguel de Allende; San Jose del Cabo to Tijuana then on to Los Angeles; CDMX to Saltillo and back; Mazatlán to Acapulco through Puerto Vallarta, Manzanillo, Patzcuaro, and Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo. Both routes from SMA to Guanajuato City and back; Morelia to San Miguel de Allende. CDMX to Puebla and back to SMA. I never drive at night and take the toll roads (unless none are available). I enjoy the freedom on driving and fortunately have never had a problem with the law. Viva Mexico.
I love your comment. We have also had incredible roads triips. Mostly on toll roads but on a few curves country roads as well. We had a flat tire, and three men stopped and helped us. Took us to thier ranch and fixed the tire. Then told us where we could buy a replacement in the next little town. A father and his sons. Very nice!
My husband, dog, and I drove from Puerto Vallarta to Playa Escondido. Our goal was Mont Alban, not too far from Oaxaca City. We took our time, drove the coast down and then after going to Mt Alban, we drove home to Puerto Vallarta on the main Highway. We would absolutely do it again!!
Fantastic trip,
Jennifer Pebley
Have lived in Mex part-time for 15 years. The “dangers” of living in Mexico are hugely exaggerated, but that said….driving outside of urban areas is not something I would do except on autopistas, esp with my decent but limited spanish. My own personal experiences have only been with the policÃa, and I now know how, with a modest amount of spanish you can “pay the fine” = mordida/bribe right there and they leave you alone. I would simply not take an extended road trip here. Flying/buses are worth the time for the peace of mind.
Road trip in México? Let’s go! 🫠Been doing that for 43 years and covered tens of thousands of kilometers! When I started out the 15 highway was two lousy lanes! Federales often stopped me at night and I have plenty of memories of all those adventures. Wouldn’t change a thing! Ready for another road trip now! Life’s to short to stay on the couch!
Amen! Love that attitude and perspective!
I’m happy to read the post by Caguichie too. Have taken many many road trips in Mexico over the past 30 years and have same rules, don’t drive at night and use the best roads available. Our secret is to start early, even before the first light, to get a jump on the traffic. This is especially true for crossing CDMX. We will stop for the night right before CDMX so we can cross early on the Segundo Piso, it is worth the tolls and makes CDMX easy. If you miss an exit, take a deep breath and try again. MX has sooo much to see. Most recent trips were to the N side of Puebla to see the fireflies in July and down to Oaxaca for soaking up that amazing city. Check out hotel parking when heading towards a city so you can leave the car there while exploring in local taxis and buses. I live in the mountains of Morelos and find there is so much to explore in MX and driving may be the only way to get there, so go for it. One extra tip is to keep cash handy in small amounts so if needed to pay an onsite traffic fine, it will not look like you are rolling in cash. Don’t leave valuables in parked cars! Same rules as anywhere in the world.
Great article.
My wife won’t let me drive two blocks.
It’s not a real road trip until you strike a chicken, as we did on our road trip from Oaxaca City to Mazunte. The chicken survived.
When I told my accountant that I was moving to Puerto Vallarta (from Puerto Penasco-Rocky Point in Northern Mexico) in 2010, he said what a coincidence, instead of me taking a bus, he said to come with him and his wife, he was leaving the same day I had planned. He was dropping off a small truck to his family and switching vehicles to return home. We packed up the bed of the truck and headed out, I have a photo of me in the tiny cramped “seat” behind the driver, with my little dog Joaquina (RIP). First stop in the evening was Navojoa at a hotel. Next day we arrived in Mazatlan to stay at his parent’s home for 3 nights. Then packed up his parent’s stuff and they climbed in the tiny seats and I got in the truck bed, with all the blankets and sleeping bags I packed, for cushioning. My dog slept under the blankets, with her leash tied to my hand at all times, very good traveler and buddy. I took a boatload of photos from the back of the truck, we got rained on too . We passed through small towns, rivers, mountains, ocean, beautiful scenery from reverse. Lots of toll roads. All daytime driving. I got to stay in his parent’s home in Puerto Vallarta (no internet, far from downtown but still grateful, and 3 buses to get to Starbucks’ internet was a typical day) they switched vehicles after 3 days in PV and returned home. I stayed there until I found my own place closer to town. I lived and worked there 2.5 years, and visit often. Now I take a bus from Puerto Penasco to Tijuana, fly Volaris non stop to PV. Just purchased my ticket for about $120 round trip, my girlfriend and I are going in March again. We had adventures for sure, I have lots of photos I saved in an album on Facebook if anyone interested, ask me how to find them. I’m not so sure about the driving now, especially going through bad areas that has been in the national and international news. But I feel fine taking a bus. By the way, did you know the senior card (over 60) gets you 50% off of bus tickets?
When I moved back to Puerto Penasco, I did take the bus, actually 2 bus changes, with my doggy. Long trip but didn’t mind. Happy to return “home” and still here.
Can you get a senior card if you’re not a Mexican citizen? I am a perm resident.
Permanentes can get an INAPAM card. Well worth it. Discounts at museums, pharmacies and more.
Yes. It is issued by INAPAM. You need proof of age. On the Internet you can download the businesses that offer an INAPAM discount. On the interstate bus lines, ETN (northern) and ADO (southern) you can get a 50% discount, but seats are limited, better to buy your ticket is advance. (Both ADO and ETN run circles around Greyhound – most are doubledeckers, comfortable seats, screens, WiFi, movies, and pre=pandemic they gave you a sack lunch).
Planes and buses are great and cheap, but car rentals will destroy your budget!! Gas and tolls are ridiculous, but I find that driving winds up being cheaper and more fun than traveling by the plane, bus route.
One tip. If you can, drive a car with Mexican plates, and an older beat up car at that.
And Spanish is a must. If you don’t know Spanish, get off your butt and learn it!! Es muy dificil, pero vale la pena.
Travis, Travis – There are no depressing birthdays. Here is how one counts birthdays in Mexico:
40, 45, 40-10, 40-15 (Early Forties)
40-20, 40-25, 40-30, 40-35(Mid- Forties)
40-40 and so on until 40-60(Late Forties)
We are all in our forties…
After 40-60, I don’t know what happens but it’s probably not good
Good advice! Love it!
I’ve been road tripping around Mexico for the last couple of years with my young puppy. Solo, blonde woman… the epitome of what one may think is a vulnerable demographic. Not so!!
We’ve made so many new friends and seen some breathtakingly, incredible places. As I wasn’t keen on doing all the trip solo, I would post on Facebook in PV and Ajijic and various other towns to see if anybody would like to join me (us) to the next destination, Or casually bring up the topic at Pickleball games
As a result, my puppy has even better and closer aunties and uncles all over Mexico who have driven various legs with us . I also have had zero problems with Police or any kind of shakedown situation (ahhh not true. Once in PV but I wasn’t driving). . I also speak Spanish, so that’s helpful and reassuring in case Im in a situation. I too, drive toll roads and during the day and split the trip up to overnight in cute towns and Pueblo Magicos. While there is often a clear destination in mind, the amount of time days it takes to get there is unimportant.
I also made the decision to buy a brand new car for the first time in my life, as I wasn’t keen on being broken down on the side of the road in the middle of nowhere. I love love my SUV and drives like a dream. Definitely watch potholes etc. but 80% of the roads have been amazing and they seem to be always upgrading the major highways.
I (and my pup Chuy) happened to meet you Travis in SMA, as your office was in a cute little artsy alleyway by one of my favorite local restaurants. You met my friend Doug from Alaska (writer/photographer) who was on that leg of the road trip with me. I love when those crazy cool things happen!
It’s been one of the most fun and rewarding adventures I’ve been on, and I’ve traveled the world! As a result, I now split my time between MX and my home country of Panama, and excited to report I have a new home “base” in San Miguel de Allende. I adore the summers in Guanajuato y Queretaro especially!
My wife and I are both born road trippers, love the feel of “the freedom of the road” aways willing to change itinerary a bit if some wonderful unexpected place becomes a new spot to stop for a day or three. We”ve travelled the main and backroads of Mexico since the 1970’s and still do. We never drive at night, it’s just not smart, and why miss all the scenery since it is why you’re traveling by car in the first place if you’re on a “road trip”.Speaking good Spanish is key, for us, regardless of how we travel, since we both believe you can’t truly inhabit a place if you can’t share language at least fundamentally. We also have never been hassled by police, never extorted on the road, but always have pesos available to offer if there is a bloqueo or manifestation to navigate. We’ve never had a breakdown even in the most remote areas where people weren’t eager to help us.Mexico is the perfect country for driving since each of its states has unique cultures and scenery not found anywhere else int he country or world Even today you can still discover tiny villages with spectacular beaches once you’re off the main roads which while not naive to reality, travel without fear.The mountains of the state of Michoacan, for instance are endlessly interesting due to the presence many villages expert in making some specific art or craft, while it’s capital, Morelia has world class music,film and rare examples of colonial architecture and churches, all frequently free charge. The mountains of the state of Michoacan, for instance are endlessly interesting due to the presence many villages expert in making some specific art or craft We’ve driven all over the world, through Europe, SE Asia, and most of Jordan including to Petra. . We never drive in big cities anywhere, choosing to park upon arrival in a paid garage, then walking, taxi, or now Uber. As far as bathrooms on the road go, carrying a roll or paper towels and good a simple disinfectant makes even the funkiest stops manageable, and then there’s always secluded spot somewhere behind the bushes off th road, right?? garage, then walking, taxi, or now Uber. As far as bathrooms on the road go, carrying a roll or paper towels and good a simple disinfectant makes even the funkiest stops manageable, and then there’s always secluded spot somewhere behind the bushes off the road, right?
I have driven, solo, from Los Angeles to Mexico City three times (once one-way enroute to Peru) and round trip twice, both times in a Prius (side note: My first day in CDMX I was stopped twice by police, for the same reason. For environmental reasons there is a no-circulo law, the last digit of your license plate determines which day, in CDMX, you can not drive. Being unaware of this, in 2003, I departed from Tlalpan to Roma. I was stopped by a policeman who explained to me that I cannot drive on Fridays because of the last digit on my license plate. Acting a little dumb, I asked why? The officer explained to me about pollution and smog. Aha! I popped the hood, showed him the Prius motor (obfuscating the gasoline engine), and explained about the Prius. He was impressed and sent me on my way. 10 minutes later, the same thing happened. Soame result….The next Monday I went to a Toyota dealer and when I drove in a crown of employees surrounded my car…At that moment there were only 2 Prius’ in Mexico.
Anyhow I did the round trip L.A.-CDMX and a third time one-way.
Re driving in Mexico: I have also driven throughout Jalisco, Michoacan, from CDMX to Veracruz, Gadalajara, Oaxaca, and now, living in Merida, round trip to CDMX with no problems (and with Lola Metiche Navajas, my constant companion) who was well-behaved the entire trip except when we stayed at hotels and she made a beeline to the kitchen. Obviously she is a dog.
One time I was retrurning from Celestun and had a flat time. A Mexican pulled-up and offered to help. He changed the time, I offered by a propina, which he refused, and we went on our way.
Driving, or the bus, gives you insights into the communities and countryside which you cannot see if you are flying, although trains are my favorite method of travel. Mexico City to Xalapa, Mexico City to Guadalajara, both now impossible I think, Kosovo to Frankfurt-am-Main, Vladivostok to Moscow, Singapore to Bangkok via Kuala Lumpur, Bariloche to Buenos Aires, La Quiaca, frontier Argentina-Bolivia to La Paz, London to Paris, Frankfurt to Paris (at times speeds of 300 km), Tokyo to Kyoto…always fantastic, safe, and interesting.
I have driven all over Mexico, from the northern border to the southern border from the west side to the east side, down the west coast highway 200 and interior toll roads, since 2000. I have never had any major problems, and I drive mostly during the day. Segundo piso is definitely the way to get through Mexico City if you’re not planning a stop there.
Mexicali to Cabo is an amazing, beautiful, relaxing road trip if you are willing to take your time…
Here are three police stop moments….,
1) Going to the pyramids in 2000 and busted for driving on the wrong day of the week out in the farm lands of Mexico State. I stood my ground and declined assistance to escort me to the closest ATM to pay the $300 USD shakedown. I out-waited two back up police cars and a tow-truck. They all give up. At the timeI drove a new Saab with U.S.plates
2) Stopped for speeding in Querétaro, Mexican plates. I showed the motorcycle officer my empty wallet (just returning from shopping) and told him he was wasting his time. He went away.
3) In a small Puebla mountain town I was stopped for driving the wrong direction on a one-way street, Mexican plates. I realized my mistake within 25 meters of starting on the street and promptly turned around. I was detained for some ten minutes while the Tránsito tried to solicit money. Finally, I told him (in Spanish) that this was an unworthy, “chicken-shit” traffic stop. He laughed and promptly returned my license and went on his way.