The turn of the century has always appealed to me. I’d love to spend a day in early 1900s Mexico City, when German cars and coffee shops first arrived. Books like Kathryn S. Blair’s “In the Shadow of the Angel” materialize a glamorous era in Mexico. One which, by all accounts, wasn’t glamorous for all. But for some, life under the Porfiriato was indeed a box of exquisite Debauve & Gallais chocolates (imported from France, of course) consumed with either Lipton’s tea or crisp champagne.
The period before the Revolution was an epoch of grand proportions for the country’s elite, where lavish dinner parties and intellectual gatherings at the Jockey Club reigned supreme. The Roma Norte of today brims with aristocratic remnants, making it a lovely escape for a long weekend in Mexico City.
Step into Mexico City’s gilded age in Roma Norte
The first thing visitors notice about Roma Norte is its European flair. The Mexican aristocracy during Porfirio Diaz’s reign was heavily influenced by European customs. To emulate Paris meant modernization, and proximity to Paseo de la Reforma and Chapultepec Park made Roma Norte the perfect place to start. By 1910, Roma Norte emerged as the epicenter of Mexico City’s aristocratic lifestyle. Streets were lined with Beaux-Arts, Neoclassicism, and Belle Époque mansions and cutting-edge technologies: running water, sewage systems and electric lighting.
To live here, one had to look the part. French fashion was a high society favorite. Ladies donned silk gloves and men — with their signature mustache — sauntered about in waistcoats and top hats. Clothing was either made-to-order or imported directly, helping boost the popularity of Palacio de Hierro, Mexico’s first department store. Modeled on Paris’s Le Bon Marché, one could buy European textiles to crystalware, locally-produced furniture to imported perfumes.
Aristocratic daily life in Porfirian Roma Norte
While gentlemen went to work in finance, import/export, architecture and civil services, ladies directed an elaborate hierarchy of household staff and philanthropic organizations. Social gatherings, like literary salons, gave women the opportunity to exercise their influence in educational and cultural arenas. After fulfilling their duties, Roma Norte’s inhabitants enjoyed art galleries, the opera, horse racing, and afternoon English tea and crumpets. Going for daily strolls along Paseo de la Reforma was common — at the time, the boulevard was lined with fountains and sculptures just like the Champs Élysées.
Your aristocratic adventure at Casona Roma
Reliving the grandeur of Mexico’s aristocracy requires two things: a nostalgic hotel in Roma Norte and an itinerary fit for a lord or lady. I decided to base my adventure at Casona Roma, a colonial-mansion-turned-boutique-hotel situated on a leafy corner of Avenida Durango and Calle Cozumel. I was immediately taken by the facade’s bold salmon color and a striking red analog clock above the entrance. Initially built as a private home in 1923, the building retains its original French-style windows framed with stone arches and a corniced trim roof.
Thirty-two guest rooms feature high ceilings, Mexican textiles and the prettiest toilet paper I’ve seen with delicate damask imprints. Floor-to-ceiling windows open to the street below, a particularly delightful feature as it allows Mexico City’s distinct soundscape to filter in. Best of all, the location is ideal for recreating an aristocratic adventure in just three days. So grab your parasol and get ready to spend a long weekend in Roma Norte as a turn-of-the-century noble.
Roma Norte, Mexico City weekend guide
Now that you know where to stay, it’s time to live the experience with this day-by-day itinerary, which covers all the stops of a high society aristocrat: food, theater, shopping, and intellectual pursuits.
Mastering the art of El Paseo (Day 1)
The first stop on this Roma Norte Mexico City weekend guide is, of course, breakfast. Pop into the sunny Aquiles Restaurant on Casona Roma’s ground floor and dig into the chilaquiles, a local favorite. Once fueled, find a fine frock for your afternoon paseo at one of Roma Norte’s renowned boutique shops. Aurelia, Redonda, and Lobo Vintage are steps away, and many items are made in Mexico. Palacio de Hierro is home to an array of luxury brands, and Antiquísima is an eclectic antiques shop where you can pick up unique treasures.
By now, you should be hungry. Fónico will make you feel like you’re a 20th-century count or countess, and La Tabernita offers a touch of Spain. Craving sopa de lima? Try Fondita 99.99. After lunch is the ideal time for a stroll: do you want to pasear down Paseo de la Reforma or 120-year-old Avenida Durango? The choice is yours.
Return to Casona Roma with enough time to refresh before your private agave spirit tasting in the Akambe Mezcal Bar. Leslie, the onsite experience expert, has a profound passion for sharing Mexico’s cultural quirks. And for getting you a little tipsy.
Salon culture and intellectual pursuits (Day 2)
Today is a full day of exploring high society haunts. Start with coffee and a pastry at Casa 1900, whose aesthetic exquisitely replicates turn-of-the-century Mexico City. Just a block away is Casa Museo Guillermo Tovar de Teresa, a Porfirio mansion with original furniture and a lush courtyard garden.
To recreate your late morning literary salon experience, you’ll have to buy a book — Librerías El Sótano Roma and Polilla Librería sell books in English and Spanish, and Cafebrería El Péndulo Roma features indoor/outdoor seating areas.
Between 4:00–7:00 p.m., La Macaría at Casona Roma hosts private tea time experiences. Knowledgeable staff will teach you how to smell, taste, and pair three different teas with a generous tiered tray of savory sandwiches and sweet pastries. It’s the perfect downtime before catching a live theater performance at Teatro Casa de la Paz, half a block north. Make a reservation at Suchi for dinner after the show, indulging in the signature Dorito Roll and fresh tuna sashimi.
The art of aristocratic leisure (Day 3)
Wake up at your leisure, as today is all about self-care. Book a massage or facial at the hotel spa on the rooftop, or for something innovative, Koti Casa Social Wellness offers cold plunges and sauna treatments. Once revitalized, spend the afternoon checking out Roma Norte’s many art galleries, including Proyecto H, Hispania, and Galeria Mascota. Dinner at Cantina Filomeno is a must: from the period decor to the wandering mariachi, this may be Mexico City’s ultimate Porfiriano-style dining experience.
Since the early 1900s, Roma Norte has endured revolutions, earthquakes and gentrification, yet still leads as one of Mexico City’s most coveted neighborhoods. The art and architecture, walkability, and culture continue to attract both visitors and locals seeking a refreshing staycation. This is just one of many ways to spend a long weekend in Roma Norte.
What would you add to this itinerary? Let us know in the comments below.
Bethany Platanella is a travel planner and lifestyle writer based in Mexico City. She lives for the dopamine hit that comes directly after booking a plane ticket, exploring local markets, practicing yoga and munching on fresh tortillas. Sign up to receive her Sunday Love Letters to your inbox, peruse her blog or follow her on Instagram.
