Recently, Mexican whiskey has been finding its way into some of the country’s most interesting bars. Whiskeys produced in Mexico generally use Mexico’s favorite grain: corn. Oaxaca-based distiller Sierra Norte takes this focus a step further by focusing on individual species of maize. Their fascinating range of spirits is distilled from locally grown heirloom corn.
Sierra Norte’s selection currently showcases six expressions made from carefully selected corn cobs: black, white, yellow, red, purple and rainbow, the last of which comes from corn that grows with multi-colored cobs. Each has a unique flavor. Typically the expressions are finished at 45 percent after two years in toasted French oak barrels.
Corn has been grown in Oaxaca for thousands of years and is the basis of much of the traditional diet. Therefore it is exciting that whiskey brands like Sierra Norte are finally emerging from the region, sharing the rich and delicious flavor of Oaxaca’s corn whiskey with the world.
Founder Douglas French is better known for his mezcal brand Scorpion, which he launched in the mid-1990s with the help of a team of local women. Since then Scorpion has been produced at their distillery in San Agustín de las Juntas. Following a period of agave scarcity, French and his team began to explore distilling other Oaxacan products.
While scouring markets for agave, French met farmers from the Sierra Norte selling different colored corn cobs. He planted some of the grains in his own fields and shared the outcome with local growers. Now there are several producers he can buy the grains from, to produce Sierra Norte whiskey.
The Sierra Norte distillery is located in San Agustín, about 30 minutes from downtown Oaxaca, hidden down a narrow dusty street, behind a large but unassuming gate. Once inside, however, visitors find a lush plant nursery, bursting at the seams with flowers and young agave plants. Literally tons of old industrial textile machine parts have been repurposed into sculptures and plant pots.
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There is also some rustic but impressive equipment for the production of mezcal and now whiskey. Alongside the big copper pots used for distillation, members of the Sierra Norte team go through hundreds of cobs of corn, separating the cobs into piles by color. Some pull kernels by hand.
Manager Rogelio Hernández Vez explains that to develop the Scorpion mezcal distillery for whiskey, “4000 liter-tanks were brought in, along with a steaming system, and new pot stills were added to the distillation area.”
The corn is then fermented in stainless steel tanks for around five days. At this stage malted barley is added to the corn; approximately 15 percent barley to 85 percent corn. According to Hernández Vez, barley has a higher sugar content than corn and is needed to stimulate the fermentation.
Sierra Norte is distilled twice, first in stainless steel and then in copper alembic stills. Initially coming out of the still the liquid is clear. What French describes as ‘moonshine.’ At this stage the whiskey has a rich smell and taste of the corn itself.
The next step is aging in barrels. French is passionate about barrel aging and has an extensive range of barrel-aged mezcal, as well as whiskey. Both are aged in 230-liter French oak barrels, which he originally brought over from France to Oaxaca via the port of Veracruz.
These barrels are charred using oak coals. Charring the inside of the barrel breaks down the structure of the oak, allowing easier penetration by the spirit. It also creates flavor.
The barrels are laid to rest in concrete cellars. Although the cellars are meant to be cool, there is still considerable evaporation. In whiskey this evaporation during aging is referred to as the “angel’s share.” According to French, Oaxaca’s angels are particularly boozy.
Sierra Norte whiskey is aged in these cellars for two years. The first barrels of whiskey were filled in 2014 and the Sierra Norte brand officially launched in 2016.
Typically, whiskey produced in Mexico is made from corn and follows United States regulations. This is partly due to much of the product being made to export. This is also true of Sierra Norte. The distiller began producing a mere 250 liters but now produce 8,000 liters and are enjoying global success, exporting Oaxacan whiskey to more than 12 countries.
Charlie Prince, president of multi-country whiskey tasting club Drammers, says the organization’s international members have shown an interest in the new wave of Mexican corn whiskeys. “We actually bought three single barrels from [Sierra Norte]: a green corn whiskey, a rainbow corn whiskey and a yellow corn whiskey.”
Recently, French and his team have opened the doors of the distillery so visitors can learn about the process and have a full tour of the aging cellars, followed by a tasting of Sierra Norte’s whiskey, presented at different stages of aging. The team guides you through the nuanced flavors of the corn and influence of the barrel. To take a tour, contact Sierra Norte directly. Rambling Spirits can also incorporate a visit as part of a day of Oaxacan spirits.
Anna Bruce is an award-winning British photojournalist based in Oaxaca, Mexico. Just some of the media outlets she has worked with include Vice, The Financial Times, Time Out, Huffington Post, The Times of London, the BBC and Sony TV. Find out more about her work at her website or visit her on social media on Instagram or on Facebook.
