I’m not a religious person, but I do enjoy a classic Christmas Eve mass.
I wish I could say I started going for spiritual purposes or to engage with the community, but that wouldn’t be true. The truth is, I just wanted a place to sing Christmas carols.
Several years ago, I spent my first holiday here in Mexico City and figured singing carols in Spanish would be a good immersive experience. I arrived at the Parroquia de la Sagrada Familia in Roma Norte and settled into a rather chilly wooden pew. Bright red poinsettias lined the aisle and twinkling lights dangled from the altar. I listened to the low chatter of parishioners as it ricocheted off the walls adorned with paintings of religious icons. A family, grandparents, parents, and two small children, slipped in the pew in front of me.
The grandmother held a small bundle of blankets with what looked like a baby inside. Throughout the service, she would pass the baby to her husband, who would rock it gently for a few moments. He would then pass it to one of his adult children, who stared into the bundle with love and adoration. It impressed me how quiet the child was, and how stiff his little body appeared to be. Weird that with all this movement and sound, it hasn’t made so much as a peep.
Upon further inspection, I realized…it was a doll.
A doll of the baby Jesus.
And upon even further inspection, I realized that everyone around me seemed to have the very same baby Jesus doll. I scanned the room in awe and watched as grown men and women rocked their respective figurines with a doting so visceral that anyone from the outside would assume what they were holding was a real living child.
I stifled a laugh (In church! The horror!). What in the Lord’s name is going on here?
Because I’m a curious soul, I researched this peculiar phenomenon immediately. I found out that many Catholic families own a Niño Dios (Baby Jesus) which is usually passed down through generations or given as a wedding present. On Christmas Eve, the doll makes its debut. First, it’s wrapped in a blanket and “lulled” to sleep by a godparent while onlookers sing a chorus of lullabies. At midnight, the doll is lovingly placed in its proper, central spot in the Nativity for each family member to kiss and pray over.
It’s a sight to behold.
Want to see it for yourself? You can. Don your Sunday best and make your way to any of these gorgeous Mexico City churches on December 24, known in Mexico as Nochebuena.
Metropolitan Cathedral
Historical Center
Built in: started in 1524, finished in 1813
The most famous church in Mexico sits in the heart of the historic center and is known for its magical Midnight Mass. Because the cathedral took nearly 240 years to complete, it’s now a unique blend of architectural styles including Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, and Neoclassical, and a beautiful location for an unforgettable Christmas experience.
Basílica de Guadalupe
Villa de Guadalupe
Built in: the New Basilica was constructed in 1974 to replace the Old Basilica, built in 1695
Pilgrims from all over Mexico come to the country’s most important religious site for a significant Nochebuena celebration. The New Basilica houses the image of the Virgin of Guadalupe and holds up to 100,000 people. Despite its size, you’ll still have to arrive early to get a decent seat.
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Parroquia de la Sagrada Familia
Roma Norte
Built in: 1925
This beautiful church in Colonia Roma offers a more intimate setting for Nochebuena Mass. Construction began in 1910 but was interrupted during the Mexican Revolution. It was finally finished 15 years later, and its interior quickly became notable for its multicolored stained glass windows illustrating Bible passages and Christian mysteries.
Iglesia de San Jacinto
San Ángel
Built in: mid 16th century
The San Ángel neighborhood and its colonial feel make this former convent one of the most charming places to spend Christmas Eve. Founded as a small hermitage in the mid-16th century, it became an official church by 1580. The complex includes one of the first atrial crosses carved in stone, mixing Christian and pagan elements.
San Juan Bautista Church
Coyoacán
Built in: began in 1522, completed around 1552
One of the oldest churches in Mexico City is situated in Coyoacán’s center plaza, offering a historic and cheerful setting for Nochebuena Mass. The church features a blend of architectural styles and houses an outstanding collection of colonial-period artwork.
Christ Church
Lomas de Chapultepec
Built in: 1992
This Anglican church provides English-language services and could be an option for expats or visitors seeking a familiar style of worship. It was designed by architect Carlos Mijares and can be recognized by its distinctive brick construction.
Parroquia de San Agustín
Polanco
Built in: 1949
Polanco’s modernist church takes up an entire block and is a local go-to for traditional Nochebuena services. A distinctive half-dome over the altar earned this parish the nickname “Church of the Tinaco”. The façade showcases the first seven Augustinians to arrive in Mexico in 1533.
Capilla of San Sebastián Mártir
Location: Chimalistac
Built in: late 16th century
If what you want is to step back in time, Chimalistac is where you need to go. Arrive early, as this extremely historic church is tiny and its crowd large. Originally an open-air chapel, it was roofed and enclosed in the late 17th century. The chapel houses an 18th-century Baroque altarpiece from the original Church of La Piedad.
Nuestra Señora de Valvanera Cathedral
Location: Historic Center
Built in: 1572
Also known as the Maronite Cathedral of Our Lady of Valvanera, is the official cathedral for the Maronite Catholic Eparchy of Our Lady of the Martyrs of Lebanon in Mexico. It’s one of just two churches with authentic talavera tiles on the belfry and houses a statue of Lebanon’s beloved saint San Charbel.
Bethany Platanella is a travel planner and lifestyle writer based in Mexico City. She lives for the dopamine hit that comes directly after booking a plane ticket, exploring local markets, practicing yoga and munching on fresh tortillas. Sign up to receive her Sunday Love Letters to your inbox, peruse her blog or follow her on Instagram.
