There are places in Mexico that not only defy deeply held views about Mexico but challenge whether a place easily fits into our understanding of Mexico’s national identity. Yucatán is the smallest of the three Peninsula States, part of a thumb-shaped peninsula that separates the Gulf of Mexico from the Caribbean. But it’s the home of a foundational Mesoamerican culture (the Maya), once held one of the richest cities in the Western Hemisphere, and is a place where physical isolation historically begat a cultural wellspring unmatched across Mexico. It’s a country within a country and has twice proclaimed in the 19th century its independence from Mexico as the Republic of Yucatan.
Let’s explore three Yucatan State locations ideal for short or long-term living: urban Mérida, beachy Progreso, and the colonial town of Valladolid.
Mérida
Just about every visitor or transplant will immediately exalt Yucatan’s many, many assets. And the next thing (inevitably) is “But the heat!” Soaring temperatures and humility (and hurricanes) can be insurmountable challenges for many, earning the State a “2” Climate ranking (our lowest) for year-round living. A daily, annual mean temperature of 28 Celcius (82 F) (soaring near 38C (100F) in spring months), eyewatering humidity averaging 70%, and 40 inches of (sometimes) cooling rain, means you’ll learn fast to let this climatic obstacle go (when you live here) and instead celebrate Mérida’s compensatory quality of life advantages. In 2022, the United Nations Habitat City Prosperity Index recognized Mérida as the city with the highest quality of life in Mexico.
Mérida is Mayan at its heart, the largest urban concentration of Mayan Amerindians in all the world. The city (population 920,000; 1.3 million in greater area) is strewn with archaeological sites and enveloped in contemporary Maya culture. Maya speech permeates the city’s markets, and traditional Maya styles of dress prevail, along with Yucatecan (and international) cultural events. A uniquely Yucatecan manner of speaking and wicked sense of humor (Bomba!) add to the linguistic adventure and jovial nature of “Meridanos”.
A uniquely Yucatecan look and feel permeate the historic downtown — parks, plazas, the once palatial Paseo Montejo, French and Italian-styled mansions, and leafy “colonias.” Some call it “criollo,” a syncretism over centuries of Spanish-Mayan cultural mash-up laced with a 19th-century flood of wealth from an agricultural boom that bejeweled the city with exquisite European architectural gems.
Many choose to live in the city’s grid-like urban core (some restore colonial era homes), while others find green and shady residential neighborhoods with yards, parks and an almost mandatory dipping pool to cool off. North-south traffic can be maddening, and getting into and out of the historic downtown core with your own car has its challenges. But public bus transportation is frequent and inexpensive. The sprawling city is tortilla flat and its grid layout is easy to navigate on foot.
With universities (over 20), museums and performing arts fueling a steady agenda of things to do, you’ll also find an expat community hailing from around the world. Many expat entrepreneurs operate retail businesses. Most who have parachuted into living here are extroverted in their civic pride, volunteer activities, social calendars, and penchant for outings to explore Yucatan’s colonial villages, cenotes, haciendas, beach towns, birdwatching natural areas, and Mayan archaeological treasures. The city’s baseball and futból teams (and fine stadiums) are another popular pastime.
The dining scene is sophisticated, reflecting Yucatecan ingredients and culinary traditions, found at celebrity-chef restaurants and bustling food stalls. Modern malls, Mayan mercados, and box stores (plus the world’s only Costco location with a cenote in the parking lot) are part of the weekly routine for many foreign-born transplants. It’s worth noting that Yucatan State is generally considered Mexico’s safest, a point often cited by thousands of migrants from other parts of Mexico. Mérida’s hospitals are the highest rated in Mexico’s southeast.
Progreso
Mérida is not on the coast, but another viable location for transplants in the port city of Progreso, a 45-minute drive to the north. Population 37,000 (not counting hundreds of U.S. and Canadian, mostly seasonal residents), Progreso is on every Meridano’s escape-to-the-beach route for seaside fun and (somewhat) cooler temperatures. As a commercial and passenger cruise port, Progreso has an attractive Gulf of Mexico-facing pedestrian seafront, white sand lapped by emerald Gulf waters, and a bustling high-season and holiday commercial vibe (especially on weekends).
Foreigners living here (a fraction of the Mérida expat community) tend to be beach focused. The closer you live to the coast, the higher the prices are.
It’s common to have village-like social connections with your Mexican neighbors. Non-profits like the Progreso Apoyo Program can help with education, volunteering and meeting folks. Note how when the snowbirds pick up and leave (during March and April), the town’s commercial pace settles into quiet weekdays interrupted by the weekend and holiday “invasions” from Mérida.
Valladolid
Smaller coastal and inland towns also find their share of foreign-born transplants, many of whom wander back north during summer (heat) and fall (hurricane) seasons. Valladolid certainly deserves a call-out, as it is located in eastern Yucatan State and is the halfway point between Mérida and Cancun. Population 56,000, Valladolid is a popular day trip spot for Cancun/Riviera Maya vacationers — with more coming thanks to a Tren Maya railway stop here. Vacationers come for cenote swimming, Mayan ruins, Spanish colonial architecture, and an energetic village vibe. It’s very walkable, with easy biking options too.
Folks moving here skew a bit more European-South American, likely resulting from the town being closer to the Mexican Caribbean coast and the Cancún Airport. A Pueblo Magico designation in 2012 has brought positive changes, municipal beautification, public concerts, and investment. A growing local artisan movement, galleries (including Mexico’s finest private collection of folk art, Casa de los Venados), and more international dining are positive changes for a town founded in 1543! Calzada de los Frailes is lined with dining, galleries and local bars. Rents and home purchases carry lower costs here than urban Mérida or beachy Progreso.
You’ll have shopping options from a well-stocked Chedraui to a robust mercado municipal and weekly tianguis street markets. Two hospital options (one private) provide care and access to some specialized medicine. No longer an “outpost,” Valladolid is growing up and embracing its 21st-century integration into Mexico’s national tourism economy.
The ratings
What did we get right? What do you disagree with? Let us know in the comments.
Author Greg Custer lives in Mexico. He’s worked for over 40 years in international tourism, educating travel advisors around the world about Mexico and other Latin American destinations. He helps folks explore Mexico for living at www.mexicoforliving.com.
Gracias Greg. Merida is a beautiful city when visited at the correct weather times. AutoProgreso bus an easy way to the beach. It’s air-conditioned also!
One of the nice things in Mexico is affordable air travel within the country. When planned ahead it is always under $100 return Guadalajara-Merida.
The Costco score is certainly something I hope people don’t care about but I would argue that anyone wanting a Costco or box stores to stay in the United States. Someone into that stuff likely wants an overall higher quality of life the US offers. Plus the products in US Costcos are better. If you’re going to put up with Merida yr round heat and need Costco you might as well live in Florida.
Totally agree!
Why seek out a costco when the artisans, markets, independent stores, and artists are plentiful??
Please support the independent businesses and artisans – leave costco out of the equation!
Lulu, thanks for writing. I AGREE with you. However many Americans moving to Mexico later in life are wanting access to familiar products and brands. Costco is a metáfora for this access question. Yes, shop local!
Lulu I don’t know anyone that shops at Costco in Mexico.
Greg is from Ajijic. Sadly a town where Walmart Chapala is the only store many that have lived in Mexico for 20 yrs shop at because they refuse to learn 2 sentences of Spanish. Apparently Costco is also a favorite!
It’s too bad a series that had good potential got ruined with Costco. Add to that the rating is flawed. A city passing because it has a Costco within 60 minutes is not digging deep enough. Merida has 1 Costco for over 1 million people. Guadalajara has 2 for 5 million. 1-2hr lines is the norm. And many products are inferior to the US.
I would add that the team at Mexico News Daily is not coming out for or against Costco (and other big box stores). I think anyone that reads MND knows that we are constant and frequent advocates for shopping local. That being said, many, MANY expats (and again, without judgement on our part) are very much interested in the proximity of Costco. We are giving people information that they are interested in – while at the same time encouraging buying local almost daily in our content. Thank you! 🙂
local artisans vs costco? not really a good comparison considering what costco’s primary retail model is – but i assure you, when i am in costco, i am a MINORITY – who’s going to tell the locals that they’re violating their customs by shopping there?
Travis, I think where the Costco thing went wrong is that it is so stereotypical to what most of us think about Ajijic and expat places. All they care about is where is Costco and Walmart. That upsets a lot of people!
It also doesn’t include facts. Greg should have told the audience how underserved Mexico is. 1 or 2 Costcos for millions of people is the norm. 1-2 hr lines wrapping around the store. Most products in Costco and Walmart inferior to the US.
Lastly, I would suggest house/rent prices are more important to your viewers than Costco.
amen
Again, Costco is a METAPHOR: access to familiar products and brands. And it starts with “C” like my company “Choosing Mexico”. That’s all. Please don’t be hung up on this and (yes) please continue to submit your comments and improvements!
Hey there – I totally get that the Costco thing is used as a barometer for recognition. Didn’t mean to start a us/them controversy….
Is this series weekly? I’m so fascinated with it! Thank you for the research!
New one every Sunday. Next up is OAXACA State
Telling future expats that Merida has good public transportation is misleading. I’ve been living in Merida for over 2 years without a car. Yes there are many mainly rickety old less than clean not air conditioned buses and lots of not air conditioned vans. During peak hours, they are crammed full of commuters–mostly the poor and working class. There are no time schedules and most bus stops are on the side of a street with no protection from the sun.
However in the past year, Merida started a system of Va y Ven bus routes utilizing new buses that don’t look like school buses as the others do. The routes are limited and still no time schedules and no shelter from the sun at pick up points. When the weather cools a bit, I’m going to try them out. Ubers are getting more and more expensive
I live in Progreso. I don’t go often, but the lines at Costco in Merida NEVER take an hour to get through, nevermind two. I’ve never seen such efficiency.
I would disagree about your rating of healthcare in Mérida. Due to a serious accident, I’ve had to use healthcare in Mérida, and the experience and care was phenomenal in every aspect. Then the affordability on top of the excellence!
Great overview of Yucatán. I live in San Jose Del Cabo for 25 years and have seen many changes. Los Cabos is growing as is the rest of the world. This article is not to be Costco focused and it is one of the improvements we ALL benefit from, Mexicanos and gringos alike! Look forward to the next article in this series.