Last week, we reported on the precarious situation facing Mexico’s beloved neighborhood stores, known as tienditas, as they battle rising inflation, low sales and criminal extortion. These vital community hubs, often run by women and their families, are struggling to survive, a survey by Mexico’s National Alliance of Small Businesses (ANPEC) revealed earlier this month.
Today, we delve deeper into the heart and soul of these traditional Mexican shops, moving beyond their economic challenges to discover why, despite the presence of globalized convenience stores like Oxxo and 7-Eleven, the local tiendita remains the true pulse of Mexico’s communities.
Adrián Balderas’ family has run a corner store — a traditional Mexican “tiendita” — for generations in Naucalpan, México state. After reading about the foreign fascination with Oxxo, Mexico’s ubiquitous, neon-lit, 24/7 answer to life’s cravings, Adrián spoke to Mexico News Daily about the real soul of Mexican snacking — and life — still found in the neighborhood shop down the street.
These little corner stores, the kind tucked under tin roofs and behind bars of sun-faded metal, do more than sell snacks — or toiletries or office supplies or any number of seemingly endless items. They connect people.
In working-class neighborhoods, the owner will know your name, your kids’ names and probably even your dog’s name — and, if you’re lucky, will have an appropriate treat waiting for your daily visit. In traditional areas, they’ve watched multiple generations of families grow up.
These stores function as more than just retail, forming an organ of the community they find themselves in. In these stores, recipes are swapped, people debate soccer scores and local news — good or tragic — makes the rounds.
“My grandmother started one year ago,” Adrián explains. “Now, my aunt runs it. It’s the town square, the place locals drift to when something out of the ordinary happens. It’s the place everyone goes to find out what’s going on.”
It’s not just a sort of living register of births, deaths and marriages in small-town Mexico either. The benefit of a personal relationship between customer and owner means that you can bend the rules a little bit if you’re ever in an hour of need.
“There’s a ritual to it — the ‘fiado’ is a kind of honor-system tab. You come up short, say ‘Can I pay you tomorrow?’ and the owner sizes you up,” Adrián says. “If the trust’s there, you’re good. Break it, and the door quietly closes. No second chance. Try doing that in a supermarket,” he laughs. “This sort of thing could never happen at a chain store.”
Still, there’s no denying the convenience of an Oxxo. It’s fast, it’s everywhere and its inventory is solid, with chips, drinks, toiletries, condoms, aspirin — you name it. What’s on the shelves varies by store size and location. Don’t expect miracles, but you’ll usually walk out with what you need — and possibly even something you didn’t.
A local guide to tiendita tips and tricks
Snacks
Snacking on a budget is an essential part of life in Mexico. While the minimum wage may have risen under the previous government, so has the cost of living. This means that for most, getting the best bang for your buck is the number one consideration when hitting up the tiendita.
Even accounting for regional varieties, simple treats can be found in basically any one of the hundreds of thousands of tienditas in the country.
For sudden cravings — especially the kind that hit mid-walk or late-night — go for the BitzJapanese-style peanuts. They’re salty, crunchy, cheap and addictive. Pick your poison: lemon, salted, natural, habanero or flaming hot. Good solo, even better with friends and beer.
Need something more substantial before a party? The microwavable burritos from Lonchibon, Del Cazo or Chata work are an absolute treat. They won’t change your life, but they’ll fill the gap. The Mega Burrito — filled with beans and beef — is my go-to. Warm it in-store, eat it on the move and you’re golden.
Throwing a party on a tight budget? Sabritones are your salvation. These beauties are spicy, tangy chili-lime puffs of pure Mexican nostalgia. Grab the family-size bag and a bottle of Valentina hot sauce — available everywhere, even from street vendors. If heat’s not your thing, there’s always Doritos Nacho or the eternally faithful Sabritas. These are the first casualties at any decent party, so plan accordingly.
Sweet fixes
Now for candy. Spicy tamarind classics like Pelón Pelo Rico are messy, sticky and totally worth it. But my personal favorite are Marimba, a hard cherry lollipop wrapped in spicy tamarind paste. It’s sweet, sour and hits with a slow burn. If tamarind isn’t your thing, then try the cherry lollipop from Rosa.
A word about change
It’s been said before, but carrying only a 500-peso bill is an absolute rookie move. If you’ve been caught short, then spend at least 80 pesos and snag a drink before you leave.
That’ll earn you smaller bills and coins, which you’ll want if you’re planning to buy something from a street cart later — you should be planning this. If you’ve gone for a chain store option, Oxxo always takes plastic, but outside of major areas, don’t bet on being able to use your card.
Be prepared
It’s a Boy Scout’s motto. If you’re planning on taking a road trip across Mexico, then know that Oxxo thrives in urban zones. Head out into rural areas, and you might be out of luck. Cash is king out there, especially in markets or local joints. And if you get the chance, buy from the mom-and-pop shops. You’ll find regional snacks and candies you won’t see anywhere else. You’ll taste something real.
Chris Havler-Barrett is the Features Editor at Mexico News Daily.
