Thursday, October 17, 2024

Renting in Mexico: Expect the unexpected

Once, about 15 years ago, I decided to take a look at some other housing options in my area. I just had to know what might be out there waiting for me! Renting in Mexico can be … an adventure at the best of times, so I thought that by sharing my experiences, I might help others be ready for what lies ahead.

There are many areas in life in which I’ll happily settle for Not Fancy: clothes, transportation, food, day trips. But when it comes to housing and decor, I always want the absolute best that money can buy — my money, at least. Few things are as important to me as the state of my physical environment, and beauty is simply a necessity.

There’s plenty of great accommodation options to be had in Mexico – it’s signing for them that can be the challenge. (Rentas departamentos en Querétaro/Facebook)

The apartment in downtown Querétaro that my employer at the time had provided was fine. It was furnished with things I wouldn’t have picked out for myself and a little dark, but the location was great and it was part of my pay package. It was clean. It was right by a market, meaning that at the very least I always had fresh flowers on the table.

Even so, I was curious about what else was out there. What I found — at that time, anyway — was that the apartment I was already in was pretty good.

Get ready for a surprise!

The first place I went to see was an apartment a few blocks away. I liked the location, and really was just hoping to get a little more sunlight so it didn’t feel like I was living in a cave.

The person who showed it to me maintained a “Well? What do you think?” expectant smile as he showed me around.

I hated it. In size and location it was fine — it had potential — but I just couldn’t figure out why on earth he’d show me a place in that state.

It was dirty. Wallpaper was peeling off the walls. The kitchen was nothing but a free-standing sink in a corner. I was too shocked to question him about those details, so simply thanked him and said that I’d be in touch.

Since that showing, I’ve looked at a lot of rentals. Some were precious, and some were terrible, though none as terrible as the first. The one guarantee I can give you is this: nothing is going to be exactly what you expect.

Abandoned house in Tamaulipas
This, uh, delightful apartment could be yours if you want it! (Saúl López/Cuartoscuro)

Leigh Thelmadatter said it best. “Mexico is a networking culture, not a one-stop shopping one, and connecting with people here is key for the best deals.” Translation: you’re very likely going to have to pound the pavement to find your place.

With that in mind, let’s look at a few other things to remember throughout the process of finding a home to rent.

Quality and prices can vary widely

This goes without saying anywhere, I suppose. But there are so many situations here in which you truly don’t know what you’re going to see until you get there, despite the pictures.

Price tends to depend on where the dwelling is in relation to the more popular parts of the community. A nice place in a nice area will be quite expensive. A nice place that’s not as close will usually be reasonable. This ultimately depends on personal preference, but I myself prefer a better location. After all, there’s lots to do to make one’s home more appealing!

No matter what you do, be sure to ask around locally about the median rental prices in the area. Unfortunately, there are plenty of people who are happy to raise prices especially for foreigners! And then who gets blamed for gentrification? Exactly.

You’ll likely need to sign a six or 12 month contract

Signing a contract
Short term contracts are harder to find in Mexico, with most apartments being offered for at least six months at a time. (Unseen Studio/Unsplash)

If you’re not up for staying in a rental for this long, you should probably look at other options. Airbnb is a popular option for shorter-term stays (but beware of the negative effects on the community), though I’d encourage even less commitment if possible. Again, you never really know what you’re going to get!


If it’s possible to stay in a hotel first and then check out Airbnbs, that’s what I’d personally recommend. That will give you a chance to check out neighborhoods, and who knows? You might even find the perfect place to rent right away!

Finally, a word to the wise: dwellings for rent are often also for sale. If the owner finds a buyer, you will have to move away at the end of your contract, so be sure to ask if that’s a possibility.

You need to ask about services

Arrangements regarding electricity, water, internet, and gas can vary widely. Here’s a good list of additional questions.

The first thing you need to do is ensure that payments for electricity and water are both up to date. In Mexico, bills for those services are always under the name of the owner, not the renter. That said, you will be the one to pay the bills when they arrive — monthly for water, and every two months for electricity. You should be shown receipts for the last applicable bills so there are no surprises! Be sure to compare them with a local friend’s as well to make sure the amounts are normal. The last thing you need to deal with is a leak once you’re already renting.

And it goes without saying that electricity and water should both be on when you tour the rental. If they’re not, it’s possible that they were shut off for non-payment. Getting them back on would be very expensive, and should definitely not be your responsibility.

Ask too if the gas is “estacionario” — a large tank attached to the house. If it is, you’ll need to have gas delivered by a big truck with a hose. If it’s not, then there should be at least one tank for LP gas already on the property that gets hooked up to the home’s gas line. Either way, you’ll need to call a service to deliver gas when you run out. See MND’s primers about gas and water in the home. It’s a whole thing!

Get ready for a lot of paperwork

Payment of electricity through a CFE ATM machine
Bills can be paid at ATMs, which makes dealing with the endless bureaucracy somewhat easier. (Misael Valtierra/Cuartoscuro)

Yes, you need a contract for your rental. And yes, you’ll need a lot of papers. IDs and proof of an income are obvious, but you’ll very likely need an aval as well.

An aval — or fiador, as it’s sometimes called — is essentially a co-signer. Typically, and maddeningly, it will have to be a person who owns property in the city where you’re renting.

The reason for this is that tenants rights laws in Mexico make it very hard for owners to push squatters off of their property. As a result, contracts and requirements for rentals tend to be incredibly strict. 

If you’re new to the area and can’t find anyone to basically say the owner can take their house away if you don’t pay your rent — shocking! — you’ll need to think of something else. Paying several months of rent up front can sometimes work, though it doesn’t always. Recommendations from previous landlords in Mexico may also be helpful. You’ll find that this is a bigger sticking point in places where there aren’t too many foreigners.

So that’s it, folks! Renting is an adventure, and one you’ve got to be prepared for. But once you find the perfect place, this country can be downright heavenly.

Sarah DeVries is a writer and translator based in Xalapa, Veracruz. She can be reached through her website, sarahedevries.substack.com.

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