Sophia’s small food stand now a cluster of restaurants

Meet Sophia, a sweet, septuagenarian grandmother working in one of the kitchens in Comida antes de Tres Marías on the busy road between Cuernavaca and Mexico City.  Around a dozen small restaurants are nestled side by side offering all kinds of traditional delights and workers, such as Sophia’s daughter-in-law, Julia, furiously wave colourful plates as a way of attracting customers. 

But Sophia isn’t your average restaurant worker. She is the reason behind this cluster of restaurants. Alone at 21 with four children to feed after her husband left her for another women, she set up a small food stand at the side of the mountain road that runs north from Cuernavaca.   

At first she had limited luck as cars were unable to stop on the busy highway.  However, Sophia didn’t give up. She noticed two things: firstly, that customers were more likely to stop when the roads were quieter and secondly, that the hungriest travelers passed by first thing in the morning. With that in mind, she opened for business every day at 4:00 a.m.

As the years went by, more and more vendors began to join her until the early 1990s, when the police banned their roadside stalls for safety reasons. Undeterred, Sophia and the other vendors decided to work together to build a safe space for cars to stop, which is now a thriving spot with a carpark, shops and restaurants. 

As our conversation moved into Sophia’s personal life, my colleagues signalled that it was time to leave. With a smile and a wink she added, “Come back another day and I’ll tell you the rest of the story.” To be continued — I hope.

Mexico News Daily

Have something to say? Paid Subscribers get all access to make & read comments.
Person on their cell phone

A very boring guide to how to register your Mexican cell phone

8
Registering you Mexican cell phone in compliance with new law isn't hard, writes Sarah DeVries. She didn't promise it was exciting though.
Puerto Vallarta as a storm approaches

Waiting on the rain in the Bay of Banderas

7
The summer rainy season in Puerto Vallarta and around the Banderas Bay region changes everything ... and in a very beautiful way.
A men's public bathroom sign

From our archive: How many stars would you give that baño? A rating guide for Mexican bathrooms

13
Sarah DeVries has, among other career-defining achievements, devised a star-rating system for Mexico's wide variety of public bathroom experiences. It's not Michelin, but it's every bit as important.
BETA Version - Powered by Perplexity