The price of a funeral has risen from 10,000 pesos to as much as 21,000.
The coronavirus crisis has overwhelmed funeral services in Tijuana, Baja California, forcing family members of Covid victims to wait up to two weeks to cremate or bury their deceased loved ones and pay exorbitant prices to do so.
Crematoriums and funeral homes in the northern border city are full and turning people away, according to a report by the newspaper El Universal.
Some people who have lost loved ones to Covid-19 travel to other municipalities where funeral homes are not as busy but leaving Tijuana is not an option for others.
El Universal described the scene outside one funeral home in Tijuana: “A small line of people waits outside the business. … Some burst into tears, others … stare at the ground. Some, amid a gloomy silence, only have enough strength to embrace each other. … The response from the funeral home employee is the same for all of them: ‘There is no cremation service, we’re saturated.’”
At another funeral home the response is eerily similar. “I’m really sorry but we haven’t had any space for a week,” a clearly tired man dressed in dark clothing tells a young couple. “There’s no space, really. Maybe in about two weeks, … we’re full.”
The couple pleaded for a solution, El Universal said, explaining that the man’s father lost a battle with Covid four days ago and that they have been searching for someone to take his body ever since. But they’ve been given the same answer at every funeral home and crematorium they’ve visited: – “We can’t, there’s no space.”
“We weren’t able to say goodbye as we should have [because] in the hospital there was no way for him to see us,” the grieving man said, adding that not being able to find a funeral home to take his father’s body has only prolonged his family’s suffering.
As demand for funeral services has soared, so have prices. Funeral services including cremations that previously cost 10,000 pesos (US $505) now cost between 17,000 and 21,000 pesos (US $860-$1,060) even though companies in the sector made a commitment last year not to engage in price gouging.
Now, not only do mourning family members face long waits for funeral services, they also have to dig deeper into their pockets.
More than 6,300 people have lost their lives to Covid-19 in Baja California and more than 40% of those deaths – almost 2,800 – occurred in Tijuana, placing the municipality among the 10 municipalities with the most pandemic fatalities in Mexico.
Placing even more pressure on funeral services is the high homicide rate in the border city. There were more than 2,000 murders in Tijuana in 2020, making the municipality the most violent in the country.
The former archbishop of Mexico City is undergoing treatment for Covid-19 in a private hospital by his own choice, Catholic Church officials said yesterday, explaining that Cardinal Norberto Rivera rejected the option to be admitted to a public-sector hospital.
Rivera, 78, is currently is in intensive care at an unidentified private hospital in Mexico City, paid for with his own resources, Valdemar said.
His condition became so serious at one point that he had to be transferred to a different hospital, also private, and had to be intubated and sedated. On Monday, he was administered last rites, according to his ex-spokesman, Father Hugo Valdemar. However, his condition has since improved, Valdemar told the publication Forbes México.
“[Rivera] was admitted on his own means because he is in bad health, and afterward when he was moved to another hospital, they required an economic reference, and the archdiocese said it could not cover his costs,” he added.
In its statement, the archdiocese said it had decided that all clergy would receive Covid-19 treatment in private hospitals that have made agreements with the government to admit public-sector patients or at temporary treatment spaces created for Covid-19 patients.
“Those bishops and priests diagnosed with Covid-19 who wish to be treated for their illness with other options may do so with their own resources or economic support that their next-of-kin can offer,” the statement said, adding that current archbishop of Mexico City, Carlos Aguiar, has assigned a priest to attend to Rivera’s needs and that it was Rivera’s decision to be treated in a private hospital.
The archdiocese justified its decision not to pay for private treatment costs saying it was due to the difficult economic situation the Roman Catholic Church is experiencing throughout Mexico, as well as “in communion and solidarity with what thousands of Mexicans are living through during this pandemic and whom we accompany by way of our daily prayers.”
Although Rivera was a few days ago rumored on social media to have died, his condition is improving, Valdemar said.
“Today we received a pretty positive medical report,” he told Forbes México. “He has been having good [oxygen] saturation and his whole body is doing well. He continues in to be in intensive therapy, in delicate condition, but with an optimistic prognosis.”
Families of the missing students and their supporters have been protesting for more than six years to press for justice in the case.
The military was directly involved in the disappearance of 43 teaching students in Iguala, Guerrero, in 2014, according to leaked testimony obtained by the newspaper Reforma.
In a report published Wednesday, Reforma said it obtained a declaration made to the federal Attorney General’s Office (FGR) in February 2020 by a protected witness identified only as “Juan.”
He was a suspected leader of the Guerreros Unidos, a drug gang allegedly involved in the disappearance of the Ayotzinapa rural teachers’ college students. According to his testimony, the 43 students and some 30 suspected members of a rival gang were detained on September 26, 2014 in an operation in which the military, police and the Guerreros Unidos were involved.
Juan told the FGR that Guerreros Unidos gangsters, assisted by the army and police, were looking for members of a rival gang who owed them money. The rival criminals were believed to be interspersed with the Ayotzinapa students, who on the day they were abducted had commandeered buses to travel to a protest in Mexico City.
Juan said three groups of students and suspected hitmen from a rival gang were detained on September 26. One group was taken away by the Guerreros Unidos, another was placed in the custody of state police and the third group was transported to an army base in Guerrero, he said.
Investigators at the Cocula dump, initially identified as the location where the missing students’ bodies were incinerated.
Juan said that the group taken to the army base was interrogated before being handed over to a cell of the Guerreros Unidos. Some of the students and suspected gang members were already dead at that time, he said.
The witness said that the Guerrero Unidos killed those who were still alive and dissolved the bodies of the deceased in acid and caustic soda. Liquid remains were then poured down the drain, he said.
Other students and suspected gangsters were allegedly butchered with machetes and axes at a cartel hideout in Iguala before some of their remains were cremated at a funeral home on the outskirts of Iguala called “El Ángel.”
According to Juan, the Guerreros Unidos controlled the funeral home even though it was also used by local forensic medical authorities. The witness said the gang regularly used the facility to cremate its victims and that the local authorities knew about it but did nothing to stop it.
Juan said that body parts that were not cremated were dumped near abandoned mines in Taxco and near the town of Coacoyula, located north of Iguala. All told, 70 or 80 people including the 43 students were killed on September 26 and 27, 2014, the witness told the FGR.
According to his testimony, state police complicit with the Guerreros Unidos planted evidence – ashes of cremated students and spent bullet casings – at the municipal dump in Cocula to support a federal government narrative about what happened.
Then-attorney general Jesús Murillo Karam offers ‘the historic truth’ at a press conference in January 2015.
The previous government presented a version of events it called the “historic truth” in which the students were kidnapped by police and turned over to the Guerreros Unidos, who killed them, burned their bodies in the Cocula dump and scattered their ashes in a nearby river.
But independent forensic experts determined that it was not feasible that the students’ bodies were incinerated at the Cocula dump, and the current federal government rejected the so-called “historic truth” and launched a new investigation.
None of the bodies of the missing students has ever been found, although charred bone fragments have been identified as the remains of two of them.
As a result of Juan’s testimony, an army captain, José Martínez Crespo, was detained and warrants have been issued for the arrest of 17 soldiers. The witness said that Martínez, currently in prison awaiting trial, was directly involved in the arrest of the missing students.
Although the army has long been suspected of involvement in the Ayotzinapa case, the testimony nevertheless inflicts further damage on its reputation.
The army chief at the time of the students’ disappearance was Salvador Cienfuegos, who was arrested in the United States last October on drug trafficking and money laundering charges but subsequently returned to Mexico, where he was exonerated last week. Many observers have questioned the thoroughness of the probe into Cienfuegos, who as defense minister blocked investigators’ access to military personnel allegedly involved in the Ayotzinapa case.
The 43 students who disappeared September 14, 2014 in Guerrero.
In light of the Reforma report, the federal Interior Ministry (Segob) said in a statement that the Ayotzinapa Commission for Truth and Access to Justice, which is part of the ministry, would file a criminal complaint with the FGR in connection with the leaking of the case file.
“These kinds of leaks seek to discredit the work carried out in the investigation of the Ayotzinapa case and the credibility of the institutions that participate in it,” Segob said.
“[They also] place the truth about what happened on the night of September 26, 2014 in the city of Iguala, Guerrero, as well as the integrity of the people who are part of these investigations, at risk.”
President López Obrador weighed in on the matter on Thursday, confirming that the testimony published by Reforma is indeed contained in the FGR file.
“I don’t know how they obtained it but it’s real,” he told reporters at his regular news conference. “More people have been detained, there was an arrest of an army captain and the investigation is open. There is no definitive result yet.”
The president said that it’s becoming clearer by the day that the “historic truth” was a fabrication before adding that the government can’t say that the protected witness’ version of events is the correct one until more investigations take place and it is proven.
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“It’s not about coming up with another sham, another false version [of events] just to say the case is closed, to shelve it, no!” López Obrador said.
“The consultants, the fathers and mothers of the young men and of course the authorities have to participate” in a thorough investigation, he said, adding that all evidence has to be collected and all suspects have to be investigated before it can be determined what happened.
One person implicated by the protected witness is Mexico City police chief Omar Harfuch, who was a security official in the previous federal government. Juan alleged he received US $200,000 a month from the Guerreros Unidos in exchange for helping the gang operate with impunity in Guerrero.
López Obrador also said Thursday that the government is committed to continuing the search for the missing students, although locating bodies dissolved in acid and disposed down drains would appear to be impossible.
“The most important thing is to find the young men. It’s quite a challenge but we have the will to do it,” the president said.
Former defense minister Salvador Cienfuegos, arrested on drug trafficking and money laundering charges in the United States last October but exonerated in Mexico last week, remains employed by the federal government as a military advisor.
Cienfuegos’ six-year term as army chief ended on December 1, 2018 – the day former president Enrique Peña Nieto left office and President López Obrador was sworn in – but he immediately became an elite advisor to current Defense Minister Luis Cresencio Sandoval.
The newspaper El Financiero reported that documents in the file that the federal Attorney General’s Office (FGR) opened to investigate Cienfuegos, who returned to Mexico in November after the United States dropped its charges against him, confirm that the former defense minister at no time ceased to be an advisor to Sandoval.
His designation as an advisor is consistent with three articles in the constitution, El Financiero said, adding that it was told by military sources that his appointment is also consistent with a presidential decree issued by former president Luis Echevvería in 1976. It is unclear how much the retired general is paid for advising his successor.
Documents in the FGR file on Cienfuegos also reveal that the government paid for his legal defense in Mexico. Lawyers who work for the Ministry of National Defense were assigned to represent the former army chief in his dealings with the FGR.
The United States, which in a surprise move agreed to drop its charges against him while under pressure to do so from Mexico, alleged that as defense minister the ex-general colluded with the H-2 Cartel to smuggle large quantities of drugs.
United States authorities provided Mexico with the evidence it collected against Cienfuegos but the FGR concluded he never met with or colluded with the Nayarit-based cartel as the U.S. claimed.
López Obrador accused the Drug Enforcement Administration of fabricating evidence against the former defense minister and lacking professionalism. He said Monday that his government won’t remain silent in light of an “irresponsible” United States’ investigation into Cienfuegos but claimed that the matter won’t have a negative impact on bilateral relations.
Against a Christmas backdrop, Freddy enjoys a honey and water mixture.
Whether it was a decision to buck lepidopteran instinct or simply bad luck, somehow Freddy the monarch butterfly didn’t heed the call to winter in Mexico this year like the rest of his Canadian snowbird brethren.
Lucky for him, Canadians Debbie and Tom Tonner took him in.
“We’ll sit there at the dining room table and he’s beside us on the window. It’s kind of comforting. He’s very much a part of our family now,” Debbie recently told the Canadian broadcaster CBC.
The Manitoba couple adopted Freddy after a friend found him on her driveway in 10-degree Celsius weather and couldn’t take him in due to having pets.
When the weather warmed up, the Tonners’ daughter Samantha tried putting him in a tree in her town farther south to give him a head start on his migratory journey. But when he didn’t leave the tree after 20 hours, the Tonners decided Freddy was there to stay.
Neighbors gather outside the window to check on the adopted butterfly.
“When I go to get him in the morning, he always flutters his wings and reminds me of a puppy wagging its tail. He’s always excited to get out of the enclosure and go to the window,” Debbie says.
Named for Canadian entomologist Frederick Urquhart, who documented much about the migration routes of monarch butterflies, Freddy spends much of his day on a blanket on a south-facing windowsill, taking sun and receiving his audience — curious neighbors who have heard about his arrival in town.
Between being empty nesters and the socializing restrictions of the coronavirus pandemic, the Tonners don’t see many people these days, so they say they’re glad to have him around for however much longer he survives.
“It’s 13 weeks now that we’ve had him, and that’s quite long for a butterfly in captivity,” said Debbie, who is a member of a Facebook group that shares information about attracting and caring for monarchs. “The only other ones that I know of who were raised in this area only live to be about 10 weeks. He seems to have a real will to live.”
While Freddy has had a big impact on their daily lives, he actually wasn’t the first monarch the Tonners fostered this year: a week before he arrived, Tonner took in a chrysalis given to her by a friend who discovered it on her lawn chair.
When that butterfly emerged in warmer weather, Tonner drove as close as she could to the Canada-U.S. border and released him.
The coronavirus pandemic and the deployment of almost 100,000 National Guard troops did little to halt violence in 2020: homicides declined for the first time in years, but only by 0.4%.
The federal government reported Wednesday that there were 34,515 homicides last year, a reduction of 133 compared to 2019, which was the most violent year on record. It also reported that there were 969 femicide victims – women and girls killed on account of their gender – in 2020, an increase of 0.3% compared to 2019. The worst state for that crime was México state followed by Veracruz, Jalisco, Mexico City and Nuevo León.
The total number of homicide and femicide victims last year was 35,484, a reduction of just under 0.4% compared to 2019. The figure equates to 97 murder victims per day, including 10 women and three children or adolescents. Almost seven in 10 victims were shot, federal data shows.
Although the reduction in the homicide rate was minimal, President López Obrador asserted that the government is making progress in improving security.
“My objective, honest assessment is that we’ve made progress. We still have a lot of things to do but there has been very significant progress,” he said.
Homicide statistics since 2015.
But the fact remains that violence remained at extremely high levels in 2020 even as people spent more time at home as a result of the pandemic and associated restrictions and the National Guard, which was created by the government in 2019, fanned out across the country in greater numbers. The number of homicide victims last year was almost double the number in 2015 when 17,886 people were murdered.
Murders increased in 11 states in 2020, government data shows, and Guanajuato remained the most violent in terms of the number of victims.
There were 4,510 homicide and femicide victims in the Bajío region state, a figure that accounts for almost 13% of the total number of people murdered in Mexico last year.
Compared to 2019, the number of victims in Guanajuato, which is plagued by cartel violence, rose by almost 1,000 or 25%. The leader of the Santa Rosa de Lima Cartel, a major fuel theft, drug trafficking and extortion gang, was arrested last August but his capture didn’t result in a sustained reduction in violence. Authorities estimate that 80% of murders in Guanajuato, where the Jalisco New Generation Cartel also has a strong presence, are linked to organized crime.
After Guanajuato, the most violent states in terms of the number of murder victims were, in order, Baja California, México state, Chihuahua, Jalisco and Michoacán.
In percentage terms, Zacatecas and Yucatán recorded the biggest increases in violence in 2020. Murders in the former state increased 67% from 645 in 2019 to 1,075 last year.
The number of homicide and femicide victims increased by the same percentage in Yucatán but violence remained low. There were 60 murder victims in 2020, an increase of 24 compared to 2019.
San Luis Potosí, where the number of murder victims rose 45.4% to 759 last year, recorded the third highest increase among the 32 states.
The other states that recorded an increase in violence last year were Guanajuato, Michoacán, Baja California, Campeche, Chihuahua, Durango, Sonora and Querétaro.
In per capita terms, Baja California, Chihuahua, Colima and Guanajuato were the most violent states. Those four, all of which are plagued by cartel violence, recorded more than 70 homicides per 100,000 inhabitants.
Across Mexico there were 27 homicides per 100,000 residents. By comparison, there were about five murders per 100,000 residents in the United States in 2018, the Associated Press reported.
In addition to homicides, kidnappings and vehicle theft were among the crimes that declined. The number of kidnappings fell 38.5% compared to 2019 while vehicle theft was down 23.9%.
The archaeological dig at the site of the Aztec town of Zultépec.
Spanish conquistadores massacred women and children in an Aztec-allied town 500 years ago after the indigenous residents sacrificed and apparently ate a group of Spaniards they captured, according to new research.
The National Institute of Anthropology and History (INAH) has published findings from decades-long excavation work at the Tecoaque, or Zultépec, archaeological site in Tlaxcala.
INAH said in a statement that indigenous Acolhua residents of the town of Zultépec captured members of a Spanish caravan that was part of an expedition led by conquistador Pánfilo de Narváez. The governor of Cuba, Diego Velázquez de Cuéllar, sent Nárvaez to Mexico in 1520 to stop the invasion of Hernán Cortés because he hadn’t authorized it.
After capturing members of the Spanish caravan, including women and children, the residents of Zúltepec sacrificed them over a period of “eight agonizing months” as an offering to the gods, INAH said.
In around January or February of 1521 it’s probable that the Acolhuas sacrificed the last of 450 people they had captured, among whom were also Cubans of indigenous and African descent who arrived with the Spaniards, and Tlaxcaltec, Totonac and Mayan people who allied themselves with the Spanish.
Remains of the European victims of sacrifice. royecto Zultepec Tecoaque
At about the same time a hill in Zultépec where the people were sacrificed came to be known as Tecoaque, which in the Náhuatl language means “the place where they were eaten.”
That suggests that the Acolhua people ate the victims of their ritual sacrifices. It is also believed that they killed and ate horses upon which the Spanish arrived.
When they were killing the last of their captives in early 1521, the residents of Zultépec knew that there would soon be revenge for their actions, INAH said.
Indeed, Cortés – who led the expedition that conquered the Aztec capital of Tenochtitlán in August 1521 – ordered Gonzalo de Sandoval to carry out a revenge attack on the town after he found out what had happened to the members of the Spanish caravan.
Enrique Martínez Vargas, an archaeologist and director of the Tecoaque-Zúltepec site, said the attack likely occurred at the start of March 1521. He said that there are references to the attack in The True History of the Conquest of New Spain by Bernal Díaz del Castillo, a conquistador, and Cortés’ Third Letter of Relation to the Emperor Carlos V.
Fearing revenge, the Acolhua people of Zultépec tried to fortify the town by building walls and other defensive constructions but they were ultimately unable to stop the invasion on horseback led by Gonzalo de Sandoval.
Human bones were found in shallow wells where they had been hidden by the locals. Melitón Tapia INAH
“Some of the warriors who had stayed in the town managed to flee, but women and children remained, and they were the main victims,” Martínez said. “This we have been able to demonstrate over a 120-meter stretch of the main thoroughfare, where the skeletons of a dozen women were found who appeared to be ‘protecting’ the bones of 10 children between the ages of 5 and 6 whose sex has not been determined.”
Martínez said that “women and children who were sheltering inside rooms were mutilated, as evidenced by the discovery of hacked bones on the floors.”
“The temples were burned and the statues of gods were decapitated. This is the way that this place, which represented a resistance for Cortés, was destroyed,” he said.
INAH said that the residents of Zultépec also hid evidence of their sacrifices in shallow wells when they became aware that a revenge attack would occur. Archaeologists have found human bones that were carved into trophies, the remains of animals brought by the Spaniards (cows, goats and pigs) and a wide range of personal objects that belonged to those captured, among other relics.
The Palenque, Chiapas, stadium where the Guacamayas play.
President López Obrador on Wednesday defended the federal government’s investment of 89 million pesos in a baseball stadium where his brother’s professional team plays.
The municipal sports facility is the home stadium of the Guacamayas (The Macaws), owned by López Obrador’s brother, Pío López Obrador.
The president said the stadium’s upgrade is nothing unusual, just one of the many public works projects requested by municipal governments. They are projects that the government is funding across the country to repair and upgrade municipal sports centers, part of a goal to allow Mexicans to take better care of their health.
“It’s to make sure that there are enough fields for soccer, basketball, all the sports, including baseball,” López Obrador said at this morning’s press conference. “It’s about health, about taking care of our nutrition, not eating junk food, and exercising, doing sports. We have talked about this many times.”
The project came under the spotlight earlier this month when an antigraft group reported that the Ministry of Agrarian Development and Urban Planning had awarded a Tuxtla-Gutiérrez construction company, which has won other government contracts in the past, the contract to upgrade the stadium after 26 other bids were disqualified.
The other bids were rejected because they didn’t meet the established criteria, government officials said. One of the bids was 33 million pesos cheaper than the winning bid, and another was 12.5 million pesos cheaper.
Pio López Obrador will not benefit directly from the awarding of the contract, although his team’s fortunes will likely improve due to the construction of team dugouts and dressing rooms, new grandstands and boxes, commercial spaces and public washrooms, as well as improvements to the playing surface and lighting.
The president said that the implications of corruption or cronyism in the Palenque stadium project were due to “slanderers” who claimed that the federal government must have selected the stadium only because his brother was involved.
“It’s a remodeling of a public sports facility — and not just in Palenque but all over the country. Close to 80 public sports facilities have been rehabilitated.”
As an example, he reminded reporters that the federal government has funded other stadium projects, such as two stadiums in Sonora — in Hermosillo and Obregón. The federal government bought the two baseball stadiums from the Sonora government to help it overcome an economic shortfall affecting government worker pensions, a deal that helped an opposing-party governor.
“The governor proposed to us that instead of selling [the stadiums] to private owners who would build shopping centers, why not have the [federal] government acquire them?”
However, López Obrador drew heavy criticism for those purchases, in which the federal government shelled out just over 1 billion pesos to buy the facilities, which will be converted into baseball schools for regular middle school and high school classes, in addition to training would-be major league stars.
The president’s proclaimed favorite sport is baseball. In the run-up to his election in 2018, he was seen practicing with his brother’s team.
"The People Await the Sunrise" by Gabriela Larios, who illustrated Stavans' book, Popol Vuh, A Retelling.
When Ilan Stavans first learned about the Popol Vuh as a teenager growing up in Mexico City, he was fascinated by the millennia-old Mayan tale. Decades later, Stavans reconnected with the text and saw it as comparable to other foundational narratives from world civilizations, such as the Bible. Yet he noted a key difference: unlike these classics, the Popol Vuh had remained obscure.
Now Stavans — an acclaimed scholar of the humanities, Latin America and Latino culture at Amherst College — is helping modern readers connect to the ancient story that began as an oral tradition among the K’iche people, who are part of the Maya.
Stavans has released Popol Vuh: A Retelling, a book-length version of the narrative that he hopes will interest a mainstream audience. The book features illustrations from Salvadoran artist Gabriela Larios, whose artwork provides a crucial dimension, Stavans said, as does the foreword by Homero Aridjis, Mexico’s former ambassador to UNESCO.
“My intent in this retelling was to insert the Popol Vuh into the canon of world classics, sagas that represent the birth and development of a nation,” Stavans said. “I have always been puzzled by the total absence of pre-Columbian indigenous aboriginal narratives that tell the story of the various peoples of the Americas prior to the arrival in 1492 of the Europeans in a way that is comparable to The Iliad and the Odyssey, to the Nordic sagas of Beowulf and other similar stories, and even to religious texts like the Bible, the Ramayana, and the Quran.”
Stavans drew multiple comparisons between the Popol Vuh and these texts.
Ilan Stavans’s take on the text is not a translation but a retelling meant to lure modern readers. Courtesy of Restless Books
“If you see the Ramayana, if you see the Bible, you see literary texts that tell us stories about the gods and humans interacting,” he said. “Stories like the Ramayana are about genealogy, explaining how a people acquired its identity, what its mission is in life.”
That’s what he sees in the Popol Vuh, which he describes as “a beautiful story” about “how the world was created. At the center of it are fallible humans. Within the humans, there’s a kind of selection of one people that is going to honor the deities. That people are the K’iche.”
Stavans lamented that when he was younger, the Popol Vuh and another foundational Mayan text, the Chilam Balam, were treated as anthropological or archaeological items, not as books. He said that he was “angry at the way [that] throughout Mexican history, indigenous cultures had been, like many people in time, fossilized, turned into fossils, seen as historical artifacts, historical entities, not incorporated in any meaningful way into the lens of daily life in Mexico, and even less so in Mexican culture.”
He said that today, translations of the Popol Vuh exist primarily in scholarly or poetic editions. He decries what he describes as a shortage of translations for popular audiences, which he said is not the case with classics such as Beowulf. He notes that on rare occasions, translations of the Popol Vuh have been released by mainstream houses or by independent nonprofit publishers like that of his version, released by Restless Books, of which he is the head. He notes that his version is a retelling, not an exact translation. He describes it as an attempt to reach readers with modern sensibilities.
In this regard, he sees Larios’ illustrations as vital. Her artwork depicts the gods, demigods, animals and humans of the narrative — including the demigod twin brothers Junajpu and Ixb’alanke, who undergo a difficult journey into the underworld of Xibalba.
“I thought Gabriela would be wonderful for this retelling,” Stavans said. “We would work back and forth,” until the text and artwork were “kind of woven together.”
Ilan Stavans first encountered the Mayan creation text the Popol Vuh as a teen in Mexico City. Kevin Gutting
He also praises the foreword from his friend Aridjis, whom he describes as an activist for ecology and indigenous cultures.
Some of the animals in the Popol Vuh appear in another book by Stavans published this year, illustrated by the Mexican artist Eko — A Pre-Columbian Bestiary: Fantastic Creatures of Indigenous Latin America.
According to Stavans, the Popol Vuh began as an oral tradition among the K’iche, who have roots in Chichicastenango, Guatemala, as well as in Chiapas, the Yucatán and El Salvador. With each retelling, the story was modified, although certain characters, metaphors and themes remain, he said.
One theme is duality: God has two K’iche poetic names, Heart of Heaven and Heart of Earth. The world is divided into an upper realm and an underworld, or Xibalba, which Stavans likens to the Christian hell or purgatory.
Many characters in the narrative are siblings — or even twins, including Stavans’ favorite characters, Junajpu and Ixb’alanke.
Junajpu and Ixb’alanke seek to avenge the deaths of a previous set of twins — their fathers — at the hands of the Lords of Xibalba. In the underworld, they survive a roomful of jaguars and a chamber of fire, but a vampire bat decapitates Junajpu. However, his brother creates a fake head out of a chilacayote squash to fool the Lords of Xibalba. Although both brothers ultimately die, they return to life and conquer Xibalba.
Twin brother demigods Jun Junajpu and Wuqub Junajpu are Stavans’s favorite Popol Vuh characters. Gabriela Larios
Stavans said that one thing he loves about the Popol Vuh is that he sees “a lot of magical realism here even before it became a fixture in Latin American literature” such as in the works of Gabriel García Márquez, Jorge Luis Borges and Julio Cortazar.
In the Popol Vuh, “objects can do supernatural things, animals can speak … all some of the elements that make this, I would say, an animistic book. It’s very endearing, almost to the point where you can say it could be children’s literature, except it’s very violent.”
The arrival of the Spanish conquistadors interrupted the oral tradition, and the Popol Vuh risked becoming “on its way to oblivion,” Stavans said. However, in the late colonial period, a Dominican friar named Father Francisco Ximénez preserved the narrative in written form through indigenous scribes, the first in a series of transcriptions.
“Father Ximénez had the idea to put pen to paper,” Stavans said. “It’s a critical moment in any people’s history.”
Yet, he is unsure of Ximénez’s motives, wondering whether “the colonizers also had some hand in shaping the narrative.”
Several elements in the text “are very close to how the Bible describes the beginning of the world,” Stavans noted, adding that Ximénez and other missionaries may have been trying to “infiltrate the minds of the storytellers. It’s hard to know.”
An image of owls taking a Mayan princess to be sacrificed. Gabriela Larios
“It feels to me almost a usurpation, to be honest, to refer to Father Ximénez as kind of an author,” Stavans reflected. “He’s the medium, the bridge.”
Portions of the Popol Vuh continue to be told among the K’iche, who have suffered since the Conquest, according to Stavans.
“The plight of this indigenous people is a very challenging one,” he said. “Poverty, illiteracy, illness, alcoholism … These are the echoes of what happened during the colonial period; they’re still experiencing them, day in, day out. In many ways, the Conquest has not finished.”
Yet, he said, there is also a heroic story of survival.
“We have this book, we have this people that link us to the past.”
And, perhaps, to the future.
“[The retelling] came out around a very specific moment, when we’re all looking for different kinds of roots,” Stavans said, “with Black Lives Matter, with the search for more multidiverse backgrounds, with Latinos looking to understand their past in more native ways, connected with indigenous culture. It has touched a chord.”
Rich Tenorio is a frequent contributor to Mexico News Daily.
If you’re traveling from Mexico City to the United States or Canada you’ll need a Covid-19 test to prove that you’re not infected.
(Travelers to the U.S. who have recovered from Covid-19 are exempt but must provide documentation showing they have recovered in the 90 days preceding travel.)
However, there are some Mexico City laboratories, mostly private, that are able to offer international travelers test results quickly, in some cases as soon as 24 hours.
The National Autonomous University of Mexico, for example, has testing laboratories experienced with providing all kinds of test results.
In general, travelers to the U.S. should present to airlines and possibly immigration officials test results that clearly state the name of the traveler, the date of the test, the type of test done and the test result.
Travelers to Canada are advised to have results that clearly state the complete name of the traveler, their date of birth, the date of the Covid-19 test, the name and address of the laboratory where the test was conducted, the type of test, and the test result.
Here are some laboratories in Mexico City that offer PCR tests:
Clinica del Viajero (Travelers’ Clinic)
Cost: 3,000 pesos.
Delivery time: 24 hours
Results delivery: via email
For more information: 55 4313 0190; WhatsApp: 55 6748 9375 or [email protected]
Payment: done online during the application process.
This clinic is associated with the National Autonomous University. Covid-19 tests are not being done at the clinic’s normal location but at the Instituto Conde Valenciana in the Obrera neighborhood (Chimalpopoca 14). Information is available on their appointment site.
International travelers should check the viajero internacional (international traveler) and the requiero certificado medico de viaje (I need medical traveling certification) options during the online application process.
Once you have applied for a test online, the website says they will call you to make an appointment, but you can call 55 6748 9375 to confirm receipt of your online application. The fee covers the consultation before your trip, the certified test results and follow-up via email or social media while you are out of the country and after you return.
You should come to your testing appointment with proof of your travel itinerary (including layovers) with evidence of hotel reservations or airline tickets.
Salud Digna
Cost: 950 pesos
Delivery time: 48–72 hours
Results delivery: via their website or WhatsApp
For more information: 52 55 39566729 or consult their website
Payment: done online during the application process.
Note: This private laboratory also has locations in many major Mexican cities. Not all offer the Covid-19 PCR test.
Hospital Médica Sur
Cost: 3,949 pesos
Delivery time: 24–48 hours
Results delivery:
For more information: 55 5424 7200 Ext. 3991 (Covid laboratory call center, open 24 hours) or Ext. 6805 (hospital customer service line) or their website
Payment: done during the online appointment scheduling process
Testing can be done inside the hospital’s Covid laboratory or drive-through without leaving your vehicle. Two testing sites are available, one in Toriello Guerra and another in Lomas-Virreyes.