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Expats facing the challenges of rural living turn to ‘La Gringa de La Yacata’

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Rural farming outside Moroleón, Guanajuato
Torok’s family working farmland outside Moroleón, Guanajuato. Life in rural Mexico can be a huge culture shock for expat newcomers.

There’s a stereotype of expats in Mexico — that they try to stretch their income and that they isolate themselves from their Mexican neighbors. Granted, such people exist, but several Facebook groups show that this is not always the case. One is Women Surviving Rural Mexico.

Camille E. Torok de Flores started the group about three years ago, building on a series of books based on her experience living near Moroleón, Guanajuato, on the border with Michoacán. It is only two hours from the Guanajuato expat enclave of San Miguel de Allende, but it is a completely different world.

So, how did she end up there? Well, love had something to do with it.

Torok, who grew up in Pennsylvania and got her teaching degree at the University of Nebraska, took part-time work at a Mexican restaurant in order to improve her Spanish; that’s where she met her husband. He had immigration issues before and after they were married, and the couple finally decided to “deport themselves” in 2006.

They initially moved to the “city” of Moroleón, which has a noted rebozo (traditional Mexican shawls) industry. The couple bought a plot of land on the outskirts of town in the developing neighborhood called La Yacata but found that their purchase “wasn’t the best decision,” she explains.

Installing solar panels on a house outside Moroleón, Guanajuato
Installing solar panels on Camille Torok’s house in the La Yacata community near Moroleón, Guanajuato.

Although their land is only two kilometers outside the city, “I can see the last electric post from my house,” she says. “I just don’t have access to it.”

She began a campaign to get La Yacata electric, water and sewer service, to no avail. “But I learned a lot,” Torok says.

Solely due to economics, they moved into the partially-built house. With no electricity, they had to go into Moroleón to do everything, including charging cell phones and laptops. At home, Torok learned new skills like washing clothes by hand.

Finally, she got an online teaching gig, which paid enough to buy a solar panel setup. It provided basic electrical needs, but internet service would have to come later, she realized.

Her family teased her that if she had wanted such a lifestyle, she could have married an Amish man in Pennsylvania.

Fifteen years after arriving, “I finally got to the point where I am comfortable,” Torok says. Not having electricity for 10 years was “exhausting,” but now she can enjoy living in the house her husband built. It is better than anything they could have afforded in the United States, she says.

Camille E. Torok de Flores
Teacher, author and rural Mexico conqueror Camille E. Torok de Flores.

Before she came to Mexico, Torok had looked for books with practical information about living here but found none. Unprepared for rural living, she learned by trial-and-error, taking notes and sharing her experiences with her family through a blog.

Over time, these notes and blog posts turned into online books published through Amazon, starting with A Woman’s Guide to Living in Mexico. Torok focuses on practical advice, much of which is applicable even to those of us not living in the middle of nowhere. They are at their best when Torok speaks directly from personal experience.

The books are particularly important to women who come to Mexico because of marriage or family, often without any idea of what to expect.

The biggest challenge, by far, is the sense of isolation. Although Torok grew up in a pretty rural area, “I was never an outsider in my town,” she says, “and here, I am.” Even after 15 years, her interactions with the local community are more superficial than the relationships she has with old high school friends online.

One reason, she says, is that many rural Mexicans, especially women, are not comfortable with outsiders, preferring to keep their circles of friends as they have always been. In addition, these women are suspicious of outsider women who chat with their men — who can be easier to talk to because they have lived and worked in the United States.

Foreigners’ isolation can even be an issue with the Mexican spouse’s family members, who often expect that the outsider in their circle will not adapt to Mexico and eventually return home — which does happen.

Books by Camille Torok
Torok’s six self-published digital books to date, all available on Amazon.

Although most in La Yacata know her, most do not know her name. “I am la gringa de La Yacata,” Torok says.

Some in the community have at least tried to change this sobriquet to la maestra (the teacher), but Torok laughs and says that people just look puzzled by this until it clicks and they say, “¡Ah sí, la gringa!

She emphasizes that it is not out of disrespect; she simply stands out that much.

Her books have been a kind of release for Torok, and three years ago she added the Facebook group since she can provide and receive emotional support through it (and maybe sell a few books).

Most participants in the Facebook community are from central Mexico, with some scattered in other places.

She has quite a few fans, including Ashlee Brooks-Diego of Venustiano Carranza, Puebla, who says Torok is “dedicated to helping women through a very emotional time in their lives.”

“[The Facebook] group has given me reassurance on many things and fears I have had along the way,” says Samantha, a member living in Chiapas.

Overall, Torok has no regrets for leaving the first-world lifestyle of the U.S. behind.

“There is a kind of lawlessness [in Mexico], but it also brings a type of freedom. You can create a different sort of life without the pressures from … family, friends or society in general,” she says.

In the United States, things are so busy and so expensive that she could not have the lifestyle she has now, Torok says. “I wouldn’t have such flexibility. Here, I have been able to create a life that I like, where I can do things like write these books.”

Leigh Thelmadatter arrived in Mexico 18 years ago and fell in love with the land and the culture in particular its handcrafts and art. She is the author of Mexican Cartonería: Paper, Paste and Fiesta (Schiffer 2019). Her culture column appears regularly on Mexico News Daily.

Government invests in small-scale cacao production in four states

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Cacao harvest at Hacienda Jesús María
Cacao harvest at Hacienda Jesús María in Comalcalco, Tabasco.

With demand for Mexican cacao expected to increase over the next decade, the Ministry of Agriculture and Rural Development has set aside 50 million pesos (US $2.5 million) for small-scale cacao producers in Tabasco, Chiapas, Oaxaca and Guerrero. The money is going to more than 8,000 small growers cultivating 10,950 hectares of land.

Agriculture Minister Víctor Villalobos said the government will also drive the creation of new programs for sanitation, technological development, improving cultivation materials and technical assistance.

At the beginning of the year, cacao growers received 6,200 pesos (US $311) under the program, with the goal of supporting their production, Villalobos said, adding that cacao is a product deeply connected to Mexican history, culture and national identity.

The minister of agriculture in Tabasco said the state will work with federal authorities to make low-interest loans available to cacao producers.

According to the Agri-Food and Fishery Information Service (Siap), the country had 29,500 hectares of land in cacao production in 2020, the majority of it in Tabasco.

Mexico News Daily

Injunctions obtained against requirement for proof of vaccination in Mazatlán

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Mayor Benítez
Mayor Benítez: it's for everyone's health.

A requirement to show proof of vaccination in Mazatlán is facing resistance: 11 people have obtained injunctions that exempt them from the rule, which requires that people seeking to enter businesses and public places show proof of vaccination or be denied entry.

It went into effect on August 2.

José Guadalupe Morales, a member of Mazatlán Lawyers United, told the newspaper El Sol de Mazatlán that the rule is illegal as it violates the right to freedom of movement and the freedom to decide whether to get the vaccine. Morales said some people have medical reasons for not being vaccinated and the alternative offered by the government — showing a recent negative Covid test — is prohibitively expensive for many.

“They tell you that a negative certificate is enough, but you have to pay 900 pesos to get in and show the mayor that you’re virus-free. These are things they have not considered. We cannot permit an authority to walk all over our rights,” Morales said, adding that the mayor instituted the rule without legislative approval.

Citizens have 15 days, counting from August 2, to seek an injunction, Morales said.

In the face of the opposition, Mayor Luis Guillermo Benítez Torres stood his ground.

“I am asking for the vaccination certificate in order to enter a public place, and it’s for everyone’s health,” he said, adding that the rule was for both locals and the port city’s many tourists. Meanwhile, city officials have begun to fine businesses that do not comply with the requirement.

Proof of vaccination requirements have also been implemented in Quintana Roo as well as some areas of Sonora, and the state government of Hidalgo has announced that vaccination certificates will be required for entering tourism sites.

With reports from El Sol de Mazatlán, El Debate and El Sol de México

US man investigated for murdering his children in Baja

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Coleman with his wife and two children
Coleman with his wife and two children, who were stabbed to death in Rosarito.

An American surfing school owner suspected of murdering his children in Baja California was arrested on Tuesday as he tried to re-enter the United States.

Matthew Taylor Coleman, 40, the owner of a surf school in Santa Barbara, California, was detained by U.S. Customs and Border Protection agents as he was crossing from Tijuana to San Diego after the mother of the two children reported them missing.

Coleman traveled with his two children, a one-year-old girl and a three-year-old boy, to Rosarito on Sunday where he checked into the Hotel City Express. CCTV footage showed that he left the hotel with the children around 3 a.m. Monday. Around 6:30 a.m., he returned to the hotel alone.

An hour later, the children’s bodies were found in the undergrowth near El Descanso ranch, a little over 20 kilometers away from the hotel. The boy had been stabbed 17 times and the girl 12, Baja California Attorney General Hiram Sánchez Zamora told a press conference. The wounds were inflicted with a wooden stake and possibly a harpoon, Sánchez said.

Consulate authorities are processing the paperwork for the identification and return of the children’s bodies to the U.S. Coleman could be extradited and face murder charges in Mexico.

With reports from Milenio, Reuters

Oaxaca teacher gets 198 years for rape, child pornography

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The Oaxaca teacher ordered jailed for rape.
The Oaxaca teacher ordered jailed for rape.

A kindergarten teacher in Oaxaca has been sentenced to 198 years for raping three girls and being in possession of child pornography involving five others, all between three and six years old.

José Emmanuel R.O. was caught red-handed and arrested in May 2016 after a victim’s grandmother couldn’t find her at the kindergarten in Santa María Tlalixtac in the La Cañada region of the state. She was informed by the girl’s classmates that their teacher had taken her to his house nearby.

She found the house locked but forced open the door and found her granddaughter naked while her teacher was taking photographs of her.

Police arrested the man, which may have saved his life: local residents were trying to break him free in order to lynch him.

Authorities later found photographs of naked children among his belongings as well as on his mobile phone and laptop.

According to a statement by the state Attorney General’s Office the crimes were committed starting in 2015.

The newspaper Diario Marca reported in 2016 that the convict received a hereditary position as a kindergarten teacher in 2013 “despite not having the corresponding qualifications.” It also alleged that he was protected by the local head of the CNTE teachers union, who ignored the complaints of parents.

The accused has also been ordered to pay a fine for more than 1 million pesos (about US $50,000).

With reports from El Universal, SDP Noticias and El Imparcial de Oaxaca

US Senate confirms Ken Salazar as new ambassador to Mexico

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Ken Salazar is on his way to Mexico.
Ken Salazar is on his way to Mexico.

The U.S. Senate on Wednesday confirmed Ken Salazar, former secretary of the interior, to be the next ambassador to Mexico.

Mexican Foreign Affairs Minister Marcelo Ebrard took to Twitter to congratulate the new ambassador, calling the appointment “good news for the close relationship that exists between the administrations led by Presidents López Obrador and Biden.”

In Salazar’s confirmation hearing on July 28, topics discussed included immigration, drug trafficking and the North American trade agreement, as well as the violence that has plagued Mexico in recent decades.

Salazar, who is of Hispanic descent, promised to address the “root causes” of immigration and work on security issues, which he called a shared responsibility between the two countries.

Salazar, 66, also emphasized the importance of protecting U.S. investments in Mexico.

His nomination was welcomed by immigration advocacy groups like the Immigration Hub, which praised his “deep roots in the southwest, Mexican heritage and broad experience.”

Salazar was secretary of the interior under former president Barack Obama. Before that he served as a senator representing the state of Colorado and was the state’s attorney general.

With reports from El Universal

This Puebla municipality hasn’t recorded a single case of Covid-19

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Welcome to virus-free Chigmecatitlán.
Welcome to virus-free Chigmecatitlán.

One municipality in Puebla has lived through the Covid-19 pandemic completely unscathed. Chigmecatitlán is the only one in the state that hasn’t recorded a single case or death among any of its 1,200 inhabitants.

The community, 95 kilometers south of the state capital, was identified by the government in May last year as one of its “Municipalities of Hope” after it had recorded no cases. Fortunately for the residents, who live mainly on the production of handcrafts made from palm leaves and raffia, the absence of the virus has continued.

According to data published by the website Alcaldes de México in July, the only other states with municipalities that have avoided Covid-19 infections altogether are Chiapas, which has four, and Oaxaca, which has 74.

María Cleofas Flores Acevedo of the Chigmecatitlán municipal office said the community had remained cautious despite its success in avoiding contraction. “Thank God, so far nothing has been reported, and hopefully we can continue like this. We are trying to maintain hygiene measures and healthy distance even though activities have already been reopened,” she said.

Flores added that all types of mass gatherings were canceled when the pandemic arrived, including Easter, the local fair for the patron saint on December 8 and the nativity play on December 28.

Chigmecatitlán
The black sliver in the middle of the lower portion of the state is the only municipality in Puebla that is virus-free.

In her role she has been privy to all deaths in the community, and their causes. Flores confirmed that so far this year there had been 13 deaths and 28 in 2020, the vast majority of which were elderly people who died of natural causes.

She added that the community was still awaiting instructions from the Education Ministry (SEP) to reopen schools.

According to the latest data from national science agency Conacyt Puebla has recorded 94,890 cases of Covid-19, making it 27th among Mexico’s states in terms of infections per 100,000 inhabitants. There have been 12,620 deaths from the disease since the start of the pandemic, putting it in 14th place for deaths per 100,000 people.

With reports from El Universal 

Literary Sala’s August online workshops get back to fundamentals

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Author Joseph Boyden
Author Joseph Boyden's "Writer’s Toolbox" is one of four workshops the San Miguel Literary Sala is hosting this month over Zoom.

Basketball superstar athlete Michael Jordan once said, “You can practice shooting eight hours a day, but if your technique is wrong, then all you become is very good at shooting the wrong way. Get the fundamentals down and the level of everything you do will rise.”

The San Miguel Literary Sala, based in San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato, is taking that advice to heart and focusing its online workshops this month on teaching the fundamentals of writing. These live, online classes over Zoom, some of which begin Monday, will go back to basics, teaching subjects such as crafting metaphor, using point of view and dialogue, pacing scenes and more.

The literary organization has been offering online events for writings and book lovers since 2020 when the coronavirus pandemic forced it to go virtual.

For those writing in specific genres, August will also feature workshops on writing about travel and food and on using humor.

And on Sunday, the Literary Sala will also host a discussion between two poets over Zoom: Michael Bazzett and David Dykes’ talk is entitled “Writing is a Suckas Game: Art vs. Craft.” Their discussion will take from 4 to 5 p.m. CDT.

Laura Juliet Wood
Laura Juliet Wood’s Literary Sala workshop on August 16 and 18 will take poetic metaphor as its topic.

Bazzett, author of The Echo Chamber and five other collections of poems as well as a translator of The Popol Vuh, won the Lindquist & Vennum Prize for Poetry. Dykes is a poet, teacher and editor. Tickets to this talk are free, although voluntary donations are welcomed.

The Literary Sala’s August workshop schedule is as follows. All events are listed in Central Daylight Time.

  • August 16 and 18, 3–4:30 p.m. — Laura Juliet Wood: “Metaphor in Flight: the Leap of the Subconscious in Poetry.” Learn what the greats (Bly, Garcia Lorca, Dickinson, Bishop and others) have to say on the subject and try it yourself in several writing exercises. Tickets: US $80.
  • August 16 and 18, 5:30-7:30 p.m. — Joseph Boyden: “Writer’s Toolbox.” Boyden, author of Three Day Road and Through Black Spruce, will teach you how to open up the writer’s toolbox and examine its contents, including point of view, suspension of disbelief, scene, summary and dialogue. Tickets: US $80
  • August 17 and 19, 3-4:30 p.m. — Diana Spechler: “A Moveable Feast: Writing about Travel and Food.” Those interested in writing about the most expensive Paris restaurant or about the 75-year-old hamburger joint in their hometown will both find a home here. Spechler will discuss character development and how to describe food without resorting to cliches. The workshop is taught in two 90-minute sessions. Tickets: US $80.
  • August 17 and 19, 5:30-7 p.m. — Mark Saunders: “10 Ways to Punch up Your Writing with Humor.” Saunders, author of Nobody Knows the Spanish I Speak, will teach you 10 methods of incorporating humor into your writing. The workshop will consist of quick exercises to help spark your sense of humor as well as examining humor writing techniques used by some of literature’s most accomplished humorists. Tickets: US $80.

For more information, including how to buy tickets or buy tickets to multiple upcoming Literary Sala events at a package price, visit their website.

Warring factions in Michoacán extend their fight beyond Aguililla

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Pueblos Unidos self-defense groups have implemented blockades, trying to stop the expansion of the CJNG
Pueblos Unidos self-defense groups have implemented blockades, trying to stop the expansion of the CJNG.

Fighting in Aguililla, Michoacán, has spread to other municipalities in the notoriously violent Tierra Caliente region, strategically significant for drug trafficking and the production of methamphetamine due to its proximity to the port of Lázaro Cárdenas.

Self-defense groups pertaining to Pueblos Unidos and criminal cells of Los Viagras — part of Cárteles Unidos — are trying to prevent the spread of the Jalisco New Generation Cartel (CJNG) and stop its alleged lieutenant, Miguel Ángel Gallegos Godoy, from taking control of the area. New blockades have caused fear and tension and disruption of trade and transport in the municipalities of La Huacana, Ario de Rosales, Nuevo Urecho, Salvador Escalante and Nueva Italia.

A territorial battle between narco groups Cárteles Unidos and CJNG has raged in Aguililla since at least early April. CJNG’s leader Nemesio Oseguera Cervantes, also known as “El Mencho,” was born in Aguililla, and it was reported in 2019 that he wanted to return to the town. The bloody turf war has caused a mass exodus from the municipality.

La Huacana, 162 kilometers east of Aguililla, has been under siege for weeks by Pueblos Unidos and Los Viagras, the newspaper El Universal reported on Wednesday. To the north of the city, the Pueblos Unidos has blocked the main point of entry, the La Huacana-Ario de Rosales highway, which is the route to the state capital Morelia. To the south, in the direction of Lázaro Cárdenas, on the border with Churumuco, there is a blockade by Los Viagras.

The borders at Ario de Rosales and Churumuco are points of high tension where Pueblos Unidos, Los Viagras, and the CJNG all have look-outs and conduct armed patrols.

The Pueblos Unidos completely closed the northern entrance to La Huacana after the June 6 election, which raised prices for basic products and transport costs, as providers had to take longer back roads. It is not clear if any traffic has been allowed to pass since that date.

Goods vendors have expressed their fear to travel to La Huacana by the back roads due to the risk of vehicles being hijacked and and set alight to form a road blockade.

Buses from Mexico City and Morelia have been suspended for weeks, leaving the small bus terminal empty.

A store owner in La Huacana, Graciela Teniza, said transit had come to a halt. “People do not come to town. To leave it, you have to think about it a lot, since it is very expensive, and there isn’t much income,” she said.

However, another resident said that the violence had remained peripheral to daily life. “We are in the midst of a dispute, about which everyone here in the village knows, but very little is said. We only see the trucks with armed people passing from one place to another, always keeping guard so that their opponents can’t enter.”

With reports from El Universal

President agrees with Mexico City mayor: the capital not maximum risk for Covid

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A crowded street in Mexico City last month.
A crowded street in Mexico City last month.

President López Obrador overruled his Health Ministry Tuesday by declaring Mexico City is not at maximum risk for Covid-19.

A difference of opinion surfaced last Saturday when Mayor Claudia Sheinbaum insisted that the capital would remain at the orange high risk level on the federal government’s coronavirus stoplight map. Federal health authorities announced Friday that the city would join five other states and regress from orange to red due to the growing number of cases.

At yesterday morning’s press conference, the president put an end to uncertainty by siding with the city and did so in front of the minister of health and his deputy, who is responsible for directing coronavirus strategy. But he stressed there was no “substantial difference” between the parties involved and that all had the public interest at heart.

“It has been decided,” he said, “because it’s the city’s responsibility, that the stoplight is orange and that is what’s happening.”

Since the stoplight system was introduced last year, allocating stoplight colors to the states has been the sole responsibility of federal health authorities, who have made their decisions based on data provided by the states.

The president played down the issue on Tuesday, saying that the important issue is that there aren’t many restrictions being placed on citizens “because the fact is that now is the time for us to look after ourselves.”

He then went off on a favorite tangent, attributing restrictions on people’s movement to “authoritarian zeal.”

The people are old enough to act on their own without being told what to do, López Obrador said.

The purpose of the stoplight system is to guide states in the implementation of restrictions based on nationwide standards. But many of the decisions have been questioned, particularly by state governors unhappy with the designations they have been given. There have also been questions about the degree of political involvement in the process.

On Saturday, Mayor Sheinbaum urged federal authorities to take into account the number of people who have been vaccinated against Covid in assigning stoplight risk levels.

With reports from López-Dóriga Digital and Milenio