Saturday, April 26, 2025

The etiquette of the sobremesa, Mexico’s after dinner artform

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A sobremesa
Mexico is a very relaxed country, but the rules of the sobremesa are a pillar of society. Learn how to avoid social gaffes and make the most of this Mexican tradition. (Valiant Made/Unsplash)

Many expat friends have asked me about a restaurant dynamic that makes them uncomfortable. They don’t understand why waiters are quick to clear the table but need to be flagged down later to get the check. I think sobremesa explains it all.  

Sobremesa is a cultural tradition ingrained in Mexican culture. The word is derived from the Spanish words “sobre” (over) and “mesa” (table). 

Shared meals in Mexico are about more than just food – they’re an important moment of community. (Stefan Vladimirov/Unsplash)

When you get together for a meal in Mexico, the experience is rarely limited to just eating. We stay at the table and engage in meaningful conversation, sharing life updates long after dessert. This after-meal moment can stretch for hours and is devoted to strengthening social bonds.

The rich history of sobremesa

Historically, it’s not hard to find antecedents to the sobremesa tradition. In the ancient world, Roman emperors and guests indulged in lavish banquets, after which, reclining on their divans, they were entertained by acrobats, actors and poets.

During the Renaissance, bourgeois etiquette escalated among the great families of Italy, including the Medicis and the Sforzas. This era saw Leonardo Da Vinci captivate guests after dinner by presenting his intricate machine models and works of art. 

During the French Revolution and the opulent reign of the Napoleonic Empire, sobremesa emerged as a core aspect of gatherings. Aristocrats showed their lavish lifestyle and sophistication by hanging out long after the meals.

The sobremesa has a long history, dating back to the Renaissance before being popularised in Imperial France. (Alexandre Dufay)

The ritual as it is practiced in Mexico originated in Spain in response to heavy three-course meals and hot weather, especially in the south of Spain, where there would be little incentive to end a comida quickly and go back outside. As it would be wildly inappropriate to have a siesta right at the table, sobremesa became a delightful alternative to allow for healthy digestion.   

The wellness benefits of this tradition

Apart from its cultural significance, sobremesa appears to offer health benefits. Taking time to relax before and after a meal has been linked to improved digestion and overall well-being. By allowing the body to properly digest food in a relaxed state, sobremesa promotes better nutrient absorption and reduces the likelihood of digestive discomfort.

Sharing stories, laughter and insights with loved ones can uplift spirits and nourish the soul.

Watch your manners in Mexico

Chew with your mouth closed, don’t discuss serious topics over dinner and make sure you praise the chef! (Pablo Merchan Montes/Unsplash)

Mexicans think it’s rude to mention difficult topics during a meal. Conversation while eating is mostly about the food and praising the cook. However, after the meal, acceptable topics are nearly unlimited. Sobremesa conversations can range from lighthearted banter to deep thoughts. As you may know though, once tummies are full, people can talk about anything.

This after-meal ritual is such a barometer of cordiality in Mexico that if you want to paint a picture of high tensions, all you have to say is, “We didn’t even stay for the sobremesa.” 

Although it can go on longer on the weekends, the sobremesa can be the weightiest part of a business meal. It starts once the eating is done and the plates have been cleared. Deep conversations are reserved for after eating because in Mexico, speaking with your mouth full is reprehensible. 

By the way, if you tend to talk while chewing, don’t be surprised if your guests suddenly leave.  

Sobremesa etiquette at restaurants

Just because you’ve finished eating doesn’t mean the meal is done – don’t worry if you haven’t got the check yet. (Daniel Augusto/Cuartoscuro)

When you go to a restaurant and find a waiting line, you’ll probably get a strange look if you ask for an estimated waiting time. That’s because there’s no way to predict how long guests will stay and chat at their table once they’ve finished their meal. 

Other cultures may think it’s rude to keep people waiting for their table, but a Mexican will find it rude to get up and leave as soon as they’re done with the food. 

The art of lingering 

So, dear amigos, remember this when dining out in Mexico: if your plates are quickly cleared, the waiter is inviting you to stay and enjoy your sobremesa. Waiters will bring you the check only when you are ready to leave.

This fast-paced world is calling us to slow down and savor the moment. Sobremesa is considered one of the barometers of joy in our culture. Whenever there is a chance, let’s practice the healthy habit of staying at the table, relaxing and enjoying each other’s company.

Sandra Gancz Kahan is a Mexican writer and translator based in San Miguel de Allende who specializes in mental health and humanitarian aid. She believes in the power of language to foster compassion and understanding across cultures. She can be reached at: [email protected] 

Stage collapse at Nuevo León campaign event kills at least 9, injures dozens

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Scene of the accident at a baseball stadium in Monterrey
The deadly stage collapse occurred on Wednesday night at a campaign event for local candidate Lorenia Canavati, who was joined by Citizens Movement presidential candidate Jorge Álvarez Máynez.(Cuartoscuro)

The collapse of a stage due to strong wind at a campaign event in the metropolitan area of Monterrey, Nuevo León on Wednesday night killed at least nine people and injured scores of others, state authorities said.

Presidential candidate Jorge Álvarez Máynez was among the Citizens Movement (MC) party candidates and officials on the concert-style stage when the collapse occurred, but he was not injured.

Videos of the moment of the stage collapse have been widely posted on social media.

Nuevo León Governor Samuel García said on social media early Thursday that nine people were killed and 70 others remained in hospital. He said that 11 other people had been discharged from hospital.

One of the nine people killed was a child. Media reports identified that victim as an 11-year-old boy who was buried under the collapsed structure. The boy’s father was also reportedly killed.

The tragedy occurred at a rally in the affluent municipality of San Pedro Garza García for MC mayoral candidate Lorenia Canavati. Citizens had also traveled to the El Obispo baseball park to listen to a musical group and support other MC candidates in the June 2 elections, including Álvarez Máynez.

The presidential candidate and several others were chanting “Máynez, Máynez” when a powerful gust of wind swept through the stage, causing a large screen emblazoned with the MC logo to lift off. Álvarez Máynez and other candidates and officials reacted quickly, running for their lives.

Paramedics rushing accident victims to an ambulance
As of Thursday morning, 70 people were still reported to be hospitalized following the accident that killed at least nine people. (Cuartoscuro)

A short time later, the roof of the stage — including metal lighting trusses — collapsed onto the stage platform and into the crowds of people. Video footage showed numerous people trapped under the lighting trusses. Paramedics, soldiers, members of the National Guard and citizens worked to free those trapped.

State Civil Protection chief Erik Cavazos attributed the collapse of the stage to “atypical wind.”

After the incident, García advised residents of the Monterrey metropolitan area to stay indoors due to “electrical storms” and “very strong winds.”

Álvarez Máynez said in a video message that the “climatic phenomenon” that caused the stage to collapse wasn’t “foreseeable as has been speculated.”

Moment of the stage collapse accident
People captured the moment of the stage collapse and ensuing chaos with their cell phones. (Cuartoscuro)

Referring to the gust of wind that brought the structure down, he said he had “never experienced something so sudden.”

“It is terrible that the people who came to enjoy a day of celebration, of joy, with us, with the band, are now victims of this tragedy,” Álvarez Máynez told reporters.

The candidate’s campaign coordinator Laura Ballesteros was among the injured. According to MC, she was hospitalized with a broken foot. The party described the winds that brought the stage down as “hurricane-like.”

Álvarez Máynez and García attended hospitals in the metropolitan area where those injured were being treated.

The MC presidential candidate, a distant third place in the polls, announced he was suspending his planned campaign activities on Thursday.

President Andrés Manuel López Obrador and the other two presidential candidates, Claudia Sheinbaum and Xóchitl Gálvez, took to social media to express their regret over the tragedy and convey condolences to the families of the deceased. Sheinbaum canceled a rally planned for Monterrey on Thursday.

Canavati, the San Pedro mayoral candidate, said in a post to the X social media platform that “there are no words to describe the pain and sadness we all feel because of the terrible accident at our campaign event today.”

“At this time the only thing I can think of are the victims and their families,” she wrote.

With reports from Reforma, El Universal and Reuters

How the agave is helping wild pumas return to Guanajuato

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A wild puma
A breakthrough in regenerative agriculture has restored the local ecosystem in Guanajuato providing innovative, water-conscious animal fodder and enabling the return of an apex predator. (Mexico Desconocido)

What is the ultimate proof that efforts to restore degraded land have been successful? When an apex predator such as the puma returns to the ecosystem. That signifies that the soil is healthy enough to sustain plant life. In turn, this supports animals such as rabbits and deer, which are prey for the puma. A new scheme, operated by Hacienda Cañada del Virgen, has found a way to do just this.

In the state of Guanajuato, faced with deforested land and an escalating water crisis, several innovators in regenerative agriculture are utilizing the amazing properties of the agave plant, to capture moisture from the nighttime air. These plants survive on a single liter of water per year and generate impressive results. They have also been used to improve environmental conditions enough to see pumas return to the wilds.

Cañada de la Virgen is in Guanajuato, a state severely affected by drought conditions.

Such was the experience of the Trapp family of Hacienda Cañada de la Virgen, whose innovative reforestation system, centered around the agave plant, has enabled the return of the puma to their five-thousand-hectare organic, grass-fed cattle ranch and nature preserve near San Miguel de Allende. One great cat was recently photographed by a livestock camera after not having been seen in the area for decades.

Deforestation in Mexico began with the Spaniards’ arrival five hundred years ago and has never stopped. Huge swaths of deforested land have been further degraded by overgrazing, harmful industrial farming practices such as the overuse of pesticides and fertilizers, and climate change. Mexico’s arid and semi-arid regions are fragile ecosystems, and the result in many areas has been desertification. While certain parts of the country have always been natural deserts, other regions have only become so over time. Sixty percent of Mexico’s land is now considered desert or semi-desert, as well as 35 percent of all land in the United States.

Sophia Trapp, an expert in sustainable development and ecosystem restoration, credits Jose Flores of Hacienda Zamarripa in San Luis de la Paz as the “godfather” of the agave fermentation method used in her regenerative agriculture system. Flores densely planted fast-growing species of agaves among nitrogen-fixing tree species such as mezquite. His revolutionary innovation was a machine that could shred the fibrous agave leaves into bite-sized pieces, allowing for the creation of a water and nutrient rich animal feed. Each local agave plant produces up to one ton of biomass over its 10-year lifespan. The leaves, pruned annually, are chopped in the machine and fermented in closed containers, resulting in high-quality, inexpensive animal fodder for sheep, goats, pigs, and chickens.

Sophia Trapp, the mastermind behind Hacienda Cañada de la Virgen’s restoration work.

Ronnie Cummins, with the support of Regeneration International, built on the Zamarripa model at the organic farm outside of San Miguel de Allende. The goal of Regeneration International’s Billion Agave Project campaign is to plant one billion of the plants globally. This is designed to draw down and store one billion tons of climate-destabilizing CO2.

Also inspired by the Zamarripa model, Trapp added important innovations at Cañada de la Virgen, developing the first system to produce agave silage suitable for cattle and scalable for large herds. Her system is commercially viable and available to the public. A “How To Make Agave Silage” video is accessible at canadadelavirgen.mx.

Cañada de la Virgen is one of Guanajuato’s most significant nature reserves, with an archaeological site that dates back to pre-Hispanic times when the Otomi people built pyramids there for rituals and star-gazing. Today it is the second most visited tourist site in the region, drawing tens of thousands of visitors each year, but when the Trapp family purchased the property 25 years ago, both the ruins and the land were sorely overgrazed and neglected. They reduced the number of cattle by half to stop overgrazing and certified the ranch as organic. In 2011, Alex and Sophia’s mother also registered the property as a federal nature reserve with the Mexican government, and the National Institute of Anthropology and History opened the archaeological site to the public.

The ranch is now run by Sophia Trapp, her husband Paul Escott, brother Alexander Trapp, and his partner, Laura Rodríguez. The Trapps have established 70 acres of reforestation test plots, where they plant agave on contoured berms to harvest rainwater. The berms act as natural sponges, reducing evaporation and redirecting precious rainwater into the bedrock, where it runs downhill underground rather than evaporating, thereby naturally irrigating the land downhill.

Making agave silage at Hacienda Cañada de la Virgen, which is used to create eco-friendly animal feed.

Trapp has also developed microbial preparations to jumpstart soil health. Her team is restoring the micro life forms in the earth by applying compost teas, fungal teas, and biochar. Since they began restoring the soil, digging berms, and planting agaves five years ago, the arid farmland has come back to life exponentially. A diverse variety of plants have naturally begun to take root around the agave, including mezquite, nopal, ocotillo, and grasses. Oak saplings are also growing quickly in areas where they did not thrive before. While oak trees flourished in the region when the Spaniards arrived overharvesting soon drove them to the brink of extinction in the area.

Agaves are the ideal crop to spur this ecosystem rehabilitation as they have a 98 percent survival rate without any human intervention. Trapp dubbed this innovative reforestation system “Agavesse.”  “We must shift from extractive economic paradigms to regenerative, circular economies,” said Trapp, “and agave is the key to ecosystem regeneration in an arid or semi-arid climate.”

Some neighboring ranches are already implementing similar systems on their overgrazed land, creating new streams of valuable revenue for farmers and their communities. Since introducing agave silage into their cattle’s diet in 2020, the Trapps have seen improvements in meat quality, birth rates, and overall health.

In addition to being highly economical to produce, agave silage is extremely attractive because the agave plants require no irrigation, unlike other nutrient-rich animal feed such as alfalfa. An astounding 60 percent of Guanajuato’s current water usage is going to alfalfa production. Not only is the state currently experiencing a severe drought, but as the nation’s water crisis grows, conservationists argue that even in non-drought years, we will need to reserve our supplies of fresh water for human use: drinking, bathing, and growing human food. We have to utilize much less water-intensive crops to feed animals, as well as urgently develop other water conservation strategies.

Alexander Trapp and Laura Rodríguez at Cañada de la Virgen. The pair have worked relentlessly to improve the ecosystem in the area.

An additional benefit to growing agave, of course, is the opportunity to make agave spirits, an opportunity that Hacienda Cañada de la Virgen has embraced. Their Casa Agave produces two spirits: the Mata de Monte, with its distinctive red label featuring the puma who have returned to the land, and the premium Atzin, winner of “Best of Class, International Agave” at the prestigious ADI 2024 International Spirits Competition Awards. Both are featured at Casa Agave’s own Bar Atzintli in San Miguel de Allende.

Cañada de la Virgen caters for special private and gourmet events with views of the pyramid and gorgeous nature. To book a visit or learn more about these innovative ecosystem regeneration methods, visit www.canadadelavirgen.mx and www.casagave.mx

Based in San Miguel de Allende, Ann Marie Jackson is a writer and NGO leader who previously worked for the U.S. Department of State. Her award-winning novel “The Broken Hummingbird,” which is set in San Miguel de Allende, came out in October 2023. Ann Marie can be reached through her website, annmariejacksonauthor.com.

 

Mayoral candidate spices up campaign event with stripper ‘surprise’

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Video capture image of male strippers entertaining women who surround them in chairs.
The male strippers were reportedly hired to entertain the attendees of a campaign event for women in Ziracuaretiro, Michoacán, after the main guest, a federal Senate candidate, had to cancel. (Screen capture)

A mayoral candidate in Michoacán has raised eyebrows and possibly some temperatures after he reportedly hired a group of male strippers to “lavish attention on” the attendees of a women-only campaign event.

Alberto Orobio Arriaga, a candidate with the National Action Party (PAN) and the Institutional Revolutionary Party (PRI), reportedly hired the male strippers for an event held at an aquatic center in Ziracuaretiro, located about 100 kilometers southwest of Morelia.

A Mexican man in the foreground, surrounded by an audience of people.
Alberto Orobio Arriaga is a National Action Party/Institutional Revolutionary Party candidate for mayor of Ziracuaretiro, Michoacán. (Alberto Orobio/Facebook)

Orobio arranged the event for a PAN candidate for the federal Senate, Alberto Lucatero. Lucatero was supposed to meet with female attendees at the Michoacán campaign event, but Orobio announced on social media that Lucatero was unable to go and that he was sending “a surprise” in the Senate candidate’s stead.

Video footage shows that at least two strippers entertained dozens of women, a few of whom got up close and personal with the semi-naked young men.

One attendee, identified only as Soraya, told local media that some women stayed outside in the garden and pool area of the aquatic center while the striptease was taking place but that others went inside to check out the performance because “curiosity got the better of us.”

“… All of us screamed, laughed, clapped and had a lot of fun,” she said.

The news website SDP Noticias reported that the women at the campaign event were treated to a “taco de ojo” – literally an “eye taco,” but also a term that can be translated into English as “eye candy.”

Radio Fórmula reported that Orobio has faced criticism for possibly using public money to hire the strippers for the event, as political parties in Mexico receive public funding for campaigns.

Other social media users opined that it was a good strategy to get people’s attention.

It is not the first time that the PAN-PRI candidate has sparked controversy on the campaign trail: he also attracted attention after saying that he identified as a woman when registering his candidacy with the National Electoral Institute.

He reportedly did so to avoid falling foul of gender quota rules.

With reports from El Universal, Vanguardia, Radio Fórmula and SDP Noticias 

US Secretary of State Blinken says Mexico has seized a ‘record amount of fentanyl’

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Clandestine lab in Sonora
Mexican law enforcement have made record illicit fentanyl seizures since AMLO took office, and also have shut down some significant clandestine narco-labs, like this one in Sonora. (Cuartoscuro)

United States Secretary of State Antony Blinken acknowledged on Wednesday that the current Mexican government has seized “a record amount of fentanyl,” but stressed that additional U.S. funding is needed to help Mexico further strengthen its anti-narcotics capacity.

During an appearance before the United States House Committee on Appropriations, Blinken was asked by Representative Hal Rogers how the State Department planned to use a requested US $1.56 billion in “international narcotics control and law enforcement funding” — an increase of $166 million from the current fiscal year level — to “help end this ongoing tragedy” caused by illicit fentanyl, which is responsible for the majority of overdoses deaths in the U.S.

Antony Blinken speaks before congress
At an appearance in Congress on Wednesday, Blinken said Mexico needs continued U.S. financing and support in the ongoing fight against illicit fentanyl. (Screen capture)

“One of the most critical things is continuing to build the capacity of partner countries as well as to strengthen our cooperation with them. I think Mexico is a good example of that,” the secretary of state responded.

Blinken said that the United States in recent years has “significantly increased” its “collaborative efforts” with Mexico “to try to disrupt, dismantle” and “take down” transnational criminal organizations that engage in fentanyl trafficking, and to combat associated financial networks.

“We have worked with … [Mexico] for example, with information and support that’s produced dozens of arrests of first and second-tier operatives in these criminal enterprises,” he said.

Mexico has “seized a record amount of fentanyl” and “disrupted production facilities,” Blinken said.

Fentanyl pills in bags
Nogales, Arizona is considered a major point of entry for fentanyl into the U.S.; pictured here are over 33,000 pills found strapped to a smuggler’s body in an attempted crossing in February. (CBP Troy Miller/X)

“But all of that comes with our assistance, our support, so this is just one example of where the additional funds would allow us to further strengthen … [Mexico’s] own capacity,” he added.

Blinken also stressed the importance of bolstering efforts to stop fentanyl entering the United States from Mexico, where the powerful opioid is made with precursor chemicals shipped from Asia, especially China.

“[It’s] very important that we deploy the most modern and effective technology in detecting efforts to smuggle fentanyl or other synthetic opioids into the United States,” he said.

“We have the technology. It’s both the old kind, things like canines can be very effective, but also actual technology — screening technology. … Based on our best assessments, the overwhelming majority of the fentanyl coming into this country is coming through our ports of entry, so deploying that technology on both sides — the Mexican side and our side — that can make a big difference,” Blinken said.

Ovidio Guzmán on his way to the US
The capture in January 2023 of Ovidio Guzmán of the “Los Chapitos” faction of the Sinaloa Cartel was considered a victory for this administration. He was extradited to the U.S. to face charges. (Cuartoscuro)

His remarks came two weeks after the Drug Enforcement Administration (DEA) said in its National Drug Threat Assessment report that the Sinaloa Cartel and the Jalisco New Generation Cartel have a presence in every state of the United States and “have caused the worst drug crisis in U.S. history.”

The “dominance” of those two cartels “over the synthetic drug trade in particular is evident in the relentless stream of illicit fentanyl and methamphetamine crossing the border toward U.S. markets,” the DEA said.

How much fentanyl have Mexican authorities seized since AMLO took office?

Although large amounts of fentanyl continue to enter the United States from Mexico, the current Mexican government has seized far greater quantities of the drug than any previous administration.

National Defense Minister Luis Cresencio Sandoval reported last week that a total of 8,222.5 kilograms of fentanyl, or 8.2 tonnes, was confiscated between Dec. 1, 2018 — the date President Andrés Manuel López Obrador took office — and May 13.

He has previously acknowledged that fentanyl seizures have increased because drug consumption and production patterns have changed.

“There was a change in consumption, there was a change in drug markets due to the ease of producing synthetic drugs,” Sandoval said in late 2021 when reporting that the quantity of fentanyl seized in the first three years of the current government had increased 525% compared to the previous three years.

The lab shut down in February in Sonora was reportedly the largest discovered so far during AMLO’s term. (Semar/Cuartoscuro)

Only 532 kilograms of fentanyl were confiscated during the final four years of Enrique Peña Nieto’s 2012-18 term, a figure that accounts for just 6% of the total seized during this administration.

In addition to seizing fentanyl destined for the U.S. market, authorities in recent years, as Blinken noted, have dismantled clandestine “narco” labs where cartels make fentanyl, methamphetamine and other drugs. One shut down in February in Sonora was reported to be the largest seized during López Obrador’s administration.

The federal government has said on repeated occasions that it is fully committed to the fight against fentanyl and is doing all it can to stop the flow of the powerful synthetic opioid into the U.S.

Ovidio Guzmán — son of convicted drug trafficker Joaquín “El Chapo” Guzmán Loera and an alleged Sinaloa Cartel leader — was finally detained in January 2023 after authorities let him go in 2019, and there have been arrests of other high-profile suspects allegedly involved in fentanyl trafficking, such as that of Gilberto Martínez Rentería, another alleged Sinaloa Cartel leader known as “El 50.”

But despite the government’s assurances that it is doing all it can to combat fentanyl,  some U.S. politicians — such as the Republican Party’s Lindsey Graham and Dan Crenshaw — and Biden administration officials have been critical of Mexico’s efforts.

Christopher Wray, director of the Federal Bureau of Investigation, last month described Mexico’s efforts to combat fentanyl as a “mixed bag.”

“We’re working with our partners on the other side of the border and there I would say it’s very uneven. We’ve had some instances where we’ve had a key arrest, an extradition, a key operation — we’ve started to work with vetted teams down there which is an important effort in the right direction, but we need much, much more than we’re getting from the Mexican government,” he said.

Mexico News Daily 

Mexico City activists return ‘election trash’ to political party offices

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Mexican activists standing with a pile of plastic election campaign banners and posters in front of Mexico's National Action Party headquarters in Mexico City
Greenpeace activists in front of the National Action Party (PAN) offices in Mexico City. They were returning "election trash," — PAN banners and posters they collected around the capital. (Gustavo Graf/Greenpeace México)

To protest the abundance of “election trash” — i.e., banners and posters produced for political campaigns in Mexico’s June 2 election — Greenpeace activists in Mexico City undertook a symbolic gesture last weekend: returning the electoral detritus to the doorsteps of the parties responsible.

Coming just two weeks before the June 2 elections, the action on May 18 and 19 against campaign materials as environmentally unfriendly election trash spanned several municipalities, including Iztapalapa, Tlalpan, Coyoacán, Benito Juárez and Miguel Hidalgo.

Greenpeace México activists also called upon citizens to sign an open letter supporting their demands. (Greenpeace/X)

According to a Greenpeace México post on the social media platform X, the nongovernmental organization Foundation for the Rescue and Recovery of the Urban Landscape (@TuMexicoLimpio) estimates that in Mexico City alone, election garbage during this election cycle could reach 25,000 tonnes.

To make their point, activists and volunteers took the banners and paraphernalia they had taken down from buildings, bridges and other locations around the capital to the headquarters of various political parties. Most of the “election trash” haul went to the offices of the National Regeneration Movement (Morena) or the National Action Party (PAN).

Morena leads the Let’s Keep Making History coalition, which also includes the Labor Party (PT) and Green Party (PVEM) and is backing Claudia Sheinbaum for president. The PAN-led Strength and Heart for Mexico alliance, which supports Xóchitl Gálvez, includes the Institutional Revolutionary Party (PRI) and Democratic Revolution Party (PRD).

The posters and banners, some of which are torn down and discarded by political rivals, end up accumulating without a recycling plan. Greenpeace México said that most political banners are made of plastics, which can take between decades and hundreds of years to degrade.

Ornela Garelli Rios, an activist with Plastic-Free Oceans at Greenpeace México, emphasized the urgency of the situation regarding election trash.

“In the midst of an unprecedented environmental crisis, it is unacceptable that political parties and coalitions flood our cities with electoral propaganda made with plastics. The statistics are staggering,” she said, citing the 25,000 tonnes figure.

Six Mexican Greenpeace activists in hardhats and red work jumpsuiits with protest signs against plastics standing in front of a Unilever factory in Mexico
The campaign to get parties to take responsibility for their campaign materials is part of a larger Greenpeace México move to reduce plastics generated in Mexico. On May 14, the organization protested at a Unilever de México factory where personal hygiene and household products are made. (Galo Cañas Rodríguez/Cuartoscuro)

Greenpeace México called for accountability on the issue from Mexico’s political parties.

Their demands included: publicly disclosing the quantity of election materials being used, its makeup and plans for recycling the resulting trash; ending further placements; and replaciing banner use with more innovative campaign strategies, such as online platforms.

As Mexico heads toward the June 2 elections, the INE has already enforced the prohibition of various forms of campaign materials in an attempt to foster an environment conducive to free and mindful voting.

The genesis of the ban lies partly in clashes between current contenders in the Mexico City mayoral race.

The Electoral Institute of Mexico City (IECM) intervened following a “propaganda war” between Clara Brugada of the Let’s Keep Making History coalition and Santiago Taboada of Strength and Heart for Mexico, opposing candidates for mayor of Mexico City.

The situation, which included sabotage of political banners, led to revised guidelines on the distribution of campaign materials.

Greenpeace seized upon that moment to urge the mayoral candidates to confront the plastic pollution engendered by their election campaigns.

Prior to June 2, there will be a three-day period in which the parties must halt political campaigning and refrain from placing new banners, posters and other campaign items in public. Said items must be removed during the seven days after Election Day.

With reports from Proceso, La Silla Rota and El Financiero

Leonora Carrington, British-Mexican artist, makes history at auction

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Leonora Carrington's "Les Distractions de Dagobert" held up by two pairs of hands in white gloves
"Les Distractions de Dagobert," painted in 1945, draws from the life of a 7th-century Frankish king. (Sotheby's/Leonora Carrington)

The British-born painter Leonora Carrington, who fled war-torn Europe to Mexico City in 1942, has become one of the five most valuable women artists in the world after one of her paintings sold for US $28.5 million.

“Les Distractions de Dagobert,” painted two years after Carrington settled in the capital, sold at Sotheby’s in New York last Wednesday to the Argentine businessman Eduardo Costantini, founder of the Buenos Aires Museum of Latin American Art (Malba).

Black and white photo of artist Leonora Carrington with paintbrush in her hand, sitting on a table in a traditional huipil, near her painting on an easel
The artist in 1963 while working on “The Magical World of the Maya” for Mexico’s National Museum of Anthropology.

With this sale, Carrington broke her own record, which had stood at US $3.3 million in 2022. “Les Distractions de Dagobert” itself was actually sold 30 years ago for less than US $500,000.

Back then, Constantini was outbid. 

The painting “is one of the most admired works in the history of Surrealism and an unparalleled masterpiece of Latin American art,” Constantini said after the sale, adding that this time, he wouldn’t let the piece get away.

“I said, ‘This time, I can’t fail again,'” Constantini said in a video about the sale produced by Sotheby’s. 

“Les Distractions de Dagobert” is widely considered an icon of its author’s surreal world. Julian Dawes, Sotheby’s head of impressionist and modern art in New York, called it “the definitive masterpiece of Leonora Carrington’s long and storied career, bearing all the hallmarks of the artist at her absolute height.”

The work’s title references Dagobert, a Merovingian monarch who ruled the Kingdom of the Franks in the early 7th century. On the canvas, Carrington captures a tapestry of vignettes ranging from extinct volcanoes, lakes of fire and aquascapes to hybrid creatures and mysterious rituals, in a composition that represents the four elements.

Outbid 30 Years Ago, Eduardo Costantini Finally Won This Leonora Carrington Masterpiece at Auction

Eduardo Constantini, who bought the painting after being outbid on it at auction 30 years ago, speaks about his love of “Les Distractions de Dagobert,” by Leonora Carrington in a video produced by Sotheby’s.

According to Sotheby’s, the imagery draws from the Irish mythology that Carrington learned about as a child, as well as the Kabbalah and Indigenous Mexican cosmology. The painting’s technique “is a testament to Carrington’s technical brilliance,” the auction house added.

For Anna Di Stasi, senior vice president and head of Latin American art at Sotheby’s, “Les Distractions de Dagobert” is “an achievement only possible in 1940s Mexico.” 

Born in Lancashire, England in 1917, Carrington joined upon arriving in Mexico a community of “exiled” and native Surrealists. These figures included Spanish painter Remedios Varo, the Austrian artist Wolfgang Paalen, French poet and artist Alice Rahon and Mexican painters Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera.

Carrington’s son Gabriel Weisz Carrington, who is a professor of comparative literature at the National Autonomous University of Mexico, (UNAM) said that her work “developed a very personal interpretation of Surrealism, influenced by motherhood.” 

This historic auction comes as part of increased interest in female artists associated with the Surrealist movement — a path led by Kahlo. In 2021, Kahlo’s painting “Diego y yo” sold for the historic sum of US $34.9 million at Sotheby’s in New York. This was the highest price ever fetched by a work by a Latin American artist, and the second highest price achieved at auction for a female artist.

Breaking another record, Carrington is now the most valuable UK-born female artist. According to Sotheby’s, the value of her pieces now surpass works from her fellow Surrealists Salvador Dalí and Max Ernst — the latter of whom she was once romantically involved with.

With reports from El País and The Guardian

Become a master of Mexican seafood with these delicious Puerto Vallarta-style recipes

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tacos de marlin
Learn to make these Nayarit seafood classics - and cocktails to wash them down with. (Carlos Escamilla Molina/Shutterstock)

Puerto Vallarta is probably my favorite place in the world. When I close my eyes and think of it, several images come to mind: the lush jungle, the clear beaches of the Pacific coast and the enchanting town. Most importantly, the flavor of traditional Puerto Vallarta seafood recipes is an essential part of my childhood, and something I won’t easily forget.

The resort city on the Mexican Pacific coast has been my family’s vacationing spot for decades. While we’ve witnessed the city’s growth thanks to tourism and the expat community, there are two things that Puerto Vallarta has managed to preserve: the small-town feeling and its traditional and delicious food. 

Despite massive growth in recent years, Puerto Vallarta still feels like a charming fishing village – and has the seafood to match. (Alonso Reyes/Unsplash)

Thanks to its great location, Puerto Vallarta enjoys an amazing array of seafood all year round. The local catch in Puerto Vallarta includes shrimp, sailfish, swordfish, marlin, bream, sawfish, snapper, and many more.

While most of these delicacies can be found along Mexico’s Pacific coast, each region has its own recipes. That is why all seafood restaurants in non-coastal cities in Mexico specify what type of seafood they prepare (i.e. seafood Sinaloa style or Cabo style). 

Today, I’m going to share two staple Puerto Vallarta style seafood recipes (also known as Nayarit style, despite the fact Puerto Vallarta is in Jalisco). If you read through the end, you’ll find bonus alcoholic beverage recipes to pair with these delicious dishes.

Zarandeado Fish

Pescado Zarandeado
Pescado Zarandeado, a Puerto Vallarta classic. (Gobierno de Nayarit)

Serves 6-8

Pescado zarandeado is hands down the most famous dish in Puerto Vallarta and the wider Bahía de Banderas region. Its name comes from the zaranda, a pit made of wood used to grill the fish. The secret of this grilled fish lies in the marinade, which is made up of several spices that blend to turn the fish a vivid red. If you don’t have a grill, you can cook this dish in an oven.

Ingredients:

1 whole red snapper, opened, scaled and cleaned

50 grams of achiote 

3 chiles de árbol, crushed

¼ onion

1 garlic clove, finely grated

Juice of 1 orange 

Juice of 1 lime (limón verde)

2 tablespoons white vinegar

1 cup water

1 tsp oregano 

Coarse salt and pepper to taste

100g butter 

Corn tortillas 

Preparation

Warm grill to medium heat or preheat oven to 180 Celsius (350F). 

For the adobo marinade, mix the achiote with chiles, lime juice, orange juice, vinegar, garlic, onion, water, oregano, salt and pepper. Season both sides of the fish fillets with salt and pepper, then brush the top side with melted butter. Place the fish fillet in a container and add the adobo sauce on the flesh side, making sure it covers the entire fish. Leave a little adobo on the side. 

Grill the fish with the skin side down until it is charred (about 8 to 12 minutes). Turn the fish and cook for another 3 to 4 minutes or until charred and the flesh can be easily removed. Add the remaining adobo to the flesh and turn to cook again for about 1 minute. 

If you cook it in the oven, cook it for 8-10 minutes or until the flesh can be easily removed. 

To serve, place the fish on a platter with the flesh upwards. Decorate with sliced onions and serve with tortillas to make tacos. Add your favorite salsa, serve with guacamole and squeeze lime on top. 

The adobo is also ideal for shrimp. 

Pickled Marlin Tacos or Tostadas 

Tostadas de Marlin
Tostadas de Marlin are another staple of my childhood visits to Vallarta. (Nutrioli)

6-7 tostadas  

Marlin tacos and tostadas are very popular in Puerto Vallarta — and extremely easy to prepare. They’re usually served as an appetizer before a pescado zarandeado or main dish. This recipe uses smoked marlin which you can easily find in any supermarket. 

Ingredients:

400g smoked marlin, shredded

2 onions, finely sliced

1/4 piece cabbage, finely sliced 

2 cloves garlic finely grated 

2 peeled carrots, shredded

3 bay leaves

1 chipotle chili

2 pickled jalapeño chiles and carrots with 2 tablespoons of pickled juice

Salt and pepper to taste 

Olive oil

Corn tortillas and tostadas 

Preparation

Place a pan over medium heat and sauté the onion slices until crystalized. Add coarse salt to taste to avoid the onions turning yellow. Once the onion is ready, add garlic and sauté for 1-2 minutes making sure the garlic doesn’t get burned.  

Add smoked marlin and cook for 2-3 minutes. Add bay leaves, season with pepper and sauté for 2-3 minutes. Add carrots and cabbage, cook for 2-3 minutes, and add pickled chiles, carrots and juice. Sauté for 2-3 minutes and serve.  

Serve on a crispy tostada or on a tortilla to prepare a taco. You can add one pickled chili to each tostada and taco if you like it spicy. 

Provecho!

Bonus cocktail recipes

These marisco dishes pair perfectly with an iced-cold michelada or paloma.

Michelada 

Wash your seafood down with a perfect michelada. (T. Tseng/Flickr)

The michelada is made up of two main ingredients: beer and clamato (tomato and clam)  juice.  

You’ll first need to frost the rim of your glass with lime and salt. Then, add 1 cup of Clamato and the juice of 2 lemons. Add Worcestershire sauce to taste, black seasoning sauce (salsa Maggi), Valentina and salt and pepper. I also like to add Tajin

Mix all the ingredients well. Add ice and beer and enjoy! 

Paloma 

The name of this tequila cocktail is apparently inspired by the mariachi song Paloma, which was traditionally sung in the cantinas where customers drank tequila with mineral water and grapefruit juice. 

Just as with the michelada, frost the rim of your glass with lime and salt. Add a shot of tequila (1-2 oz.) to a glass and mix with the juice of half a lime and a pinch of salt. Add ice and equal parts of pink grapefruit soda and mineral water. Mix well and enjoy.  

Salud!

Gabriela Solis is a Mexican lawyer turned full-time writer. She was born and raised in Guadalajara and covers business, culture, lifestyle and travel for Mexico News Daily. You can follow her lifestyle blog Dunas y Palmeras.

4 economic forecasts for Mexico from Citibanamex’s 30-bank survey

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A Citibanamex bank in Mexico City
Citibanamex surveyed over 30 banks and institutions including Barclays, HSBC and JP Morgan. (Galo Cañas Rodríguez/Cuartoscuro)

The Mexican peso will weaken to just under 18 to the US dollar by the end of 2024.

The Mexican economy will grow by 2.2% in 2024.

Mexico’s average inflation rate this year will be just above 4.2%.

The Bank of Mexico’s benchmark interest rate will be 10% at the end of 2024.

These are some of the consensus forecasts derived from the latest Citibanamex Expectations Survey, for which more than 30 banks, brokerages and research organizations were asked to provide economic predictions for Mexico.

The survey results, which include forecasts from major banks such as JP Morgan, HSBC and Banorte, were published Tuesday.

The Mexican stock exchange displays the MXN:USD exchange rate at 17.97
Analysts expect the peso to trade around 18 to the US dollar again in late 2024. (Galo Cañas Rodríguez/Cuartoscuro)

The peso’s future: above or below 18?

The peso was trading at just above 16.60 to the US dollar on Wednesday morning, not too far off from the almost nine-year high of 16.30 it reached last month.

The consensus forecast of the banks, brokerages and research organizations surveyed by Citibanamex is that the peso will trade at 17.90 to the dollar at the end of 2024. That forecast was unchanged from that of the previous survey, conducted two weeks earlier.

A USD:MXN exchange rate of 17.90 would represent a depreciation of over 7% for the peso compared to its current level.

The end-of-year USD:MXN exchange rate forecasts ranged from 16.75 (from the bank Natixis) to 19.80 (from the brokerage Masari Casa de Bolsa).

The consensus forecast for the end of 2025 is that the peso will be trading at 18.66 to the dollar.

GDP growth

The consensus forecast that Mexico’s GDP will increase by 2.2% in annual terms in 2024 is below the International Monetary Fund’s current 2.4% prediction. The outlook is unchanged compared to the previous Citibanamex survey.

The highest growth forecast was 2.8% (from Epicurus Investments and Masari Casa de Bolsa), while the lowest was 1.4% (from XP Investments).

The consensus forecast of those surveyed by Citibanamex is that economic growth in Mexico will slow to 1.8% in 2025.

In 2023, the Mexican economy grew 3.2% in annual terms. Growth was 2% in the first quarter of this year.

Inflation 

The most recent inflation data showed that the headline rate was 4.65% in April, up from 4.42% in March.

The consensus forecast is that Mexico’s average inflation rate will be 4.21% this year. That outlook is up from the 4.17% consensus forecast derived from the previous Citibanamex survey.

The highest 2024 inflation forecast was 4.65% (from the Monex financial group), while the lowest was 3.80% (from Oxford Economics).

In 2025, the consensus forecast of those surveyed by Citibanamex is that inflation will average 3.71%.

The Bank of Mexico currently targets inflation of 3% with a “tolerance” of 1 percentage point in either direction.

Interest rates 

The consensus forecast is that the Bank of Mexico will cut its official interest rate by 25 basis points to 10.75% in June.

Around three-quarters of the entities surveyed by Citibanamex — 26 of 34 — predicted that the central bank will make a 25-basis-point cut to its key rate next month.

The others forecast that a cut of the same size will come in either August or September.

The bank’s governing board will hold its next monetary policy meeting on June 27. Its subsequent meetings will take place on Aug. 8 and Sept. 26.

The Bank of Mexico reduced its benchmark rate to 11% from a record high of 11.25% in March. It left the rate unchanged after the governing board’s meeting on May 9.

The consensus forecast is that the central bank will make additional cuts in 2024 to leave its key interest rate at 10% at the end of the year. That prediction is unchanged compared to the previous Citibanamex survey.

The lowest end-of-year forecast for interest rates was 9% (from Oxford Economics), while the highest was 10.50% (from Masari Casa de Bolsa).

The consensus forecast is that the Bank of Mexico’s official interest rate will be 7.88% at the end of 2025.

Mexico News Daily 

Jalisco’s secret kingdom of Ghosts and Goblins

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John Pint hiking in the Garden of Ghostly Delights in Tala, Jalisco
Step inside the Garden of Ghostly Delights in Tala, Jalisco, which hides a prehistoric world world of wonder. (All photos by John Pint)

Nearly fifty years ago, Dr. John Wright came to Mexico to study pyroclastic flows: great “rivers” of incandescent volcanic ash that flowed across the landscape some 95,000 years ago when a huge, explosive volcanic eruption occurred not far from what is now Tala, Jalisco, close to Mexico’s second city of Guadalajara.

Among the curiosities that Wright encountered during his two field trips in the 1970s to the woods around the little town of Tala, were rock formations that less scientific nature lovers have dubbed “fairy footstools.”

Dr. John Wright mapping volcanics in 2012, in South Australia. Wright plans to revisit Tala’s extraordinary rock formations this October.

Typically they look like nicely rounded tree stumps, perhaps a foot or two high. The casual observer first sees them as cut trees, but on closer observation, they discover that they are made of stone.

In his book on Volcanic Successions, published in 1987, Wright calls them steam pipes or paleo-fumarolic pipes, formed eons ago when water vapor percolated upward through thick layers of hot ash.

 “The steam bubbles,” says Wright, “altered the ash chemically, precipitating minerals harder than the surrounding ash. Wherever bubbles rose, smooth cylinders of rock perhaps over 20 meters in length, were created beneath the surface.”

The Great Wall of Pipes

The most notable collection of steam pipes is conveniently located near Parque Recreativo La Hiedra, a campsite in the Primavera Forest located 21 kilometers west of Guadalajara.  Alongside this park runs El Río Salado, the Salty River, whose waters are a pleasant 25 degrees Celsius.

The Great Wall of Pipes in Tala, Jalisco
A close-up of pipes in the Great Wall. Their horizontal orientation has so far baffled scientists.

The park has dammed the river in two places to create large pools for swimming and has an extensive flat area, perfect for camping.

The Great Wall of Pipes is located 300 meters downstream. It is about 70 meters long and 25 high and is filled with hundreds of big cylinders of rock, all of them lying on their sides. This has left scientists baffled. The theory of steam bubbles rising through hot ash would result in vertical pipes, not horizontal ones. But similar walls of horizontal pipes — not as large as this one — have been found all around the Tala area, casting doubt on the theory of how the pipes were formed.

 “New theories are being proposed,” says Wright, “theories that the percolation was downward — or perhaps every which way. More study is required.”

Just how it was formed remains a mystery, but one thing is certain, adds Wright: “Nothing like the Great Wall has ever been described in the literature. It appears to be unique.”

Ghosts, goblins, and happiness

The King of the Goblins, in Tala, Jalisco
The so-called “King of the Goblins” towers over passing hikers.

Apart from ”fairy footstools,” the environs of Tala host “goblins.” These are bizarrely shaped rocks named after similar features seen in Goblin Canyon Park, New Mexico. Unlike the pipes, these are roughly textured rocks that may take many shapes, for example, tall stately spires or curvy meandering walls, which you’d swear were man-made. Other bizarre forms may remind you of a sofa, an armchair, or a spooky version of SpongeBob Squarepants.

The best place to see the full range of these weird formations is a failed subdivision called Villa Felicidad, located directly east of Tala. Here you can drive to a path through what I call The Garden of Ghostly Delights which will take you to a tall spire known as el “Rey de los Duendes,” the King of the Goblins.

Along this short two-kilometer trail, you can see the full gamut of rock formations created by the bubbling action of steam trapped under a blanket of hot ash nearly 100,000 years ago.

The bizarre Martian Eyes

The geological formations of Tala appear to be unique to the area, and their origin remains unclear.

Of particular interest is the Little Wall of Martian Eyes. Yes, it’s another set of horizontally oriented pipes that definitely look like they come from another planet.

This trail parallels el “Río De Las Ánimas,” the River of Ghosts, so named because it runs through many kilometers of strange stone figures which, if seen at dusk might convince anyone that they had wandered into the realm of the undead.

Because the River of Ghosts is born inside the protected Primavera Forest, it is completely free of pollution from human sources and its mild temperature invites you to jump right in.

This path, by the way, forms one small section of a great bicycle trail called La Ruta del Gigante, The Route of the Giant. Maintained and promoted by the city of Tala, this 20-kilometer loop offers the perfect way to acquaint you with the Ghost and Goblin Park.

The Agua Dulce River is born

Long pipes lie exposed to view near Agua Dulce Campground in the Primavera Forest.

At the northern edge of the Kingdom of Ghosts and Goblins lies the Agua Dulce Park and Campsite. This is perhaps the best place to camp inside the Primavera Forest. The park is named after “the Río Agua Dulce ,” or Sweet Water River, which originates within the confines of this campsite. Drinkable, delicious, crystal clear, cold water bubbles out of the ground here, a curiosity in an area dominated by hot rivers.

Besides a natural swimming hole, this site offers restrooms, ponies, a zipline, and a high watchtower from which you can see clear across the forest to Tequila Volcano on the horizon.

A hike from Agua Dulce to the Salty River (the continuation of Rio Caliente) will take you past a nice selection of goblins and pipes. The pipes are large and lie neither horizontally nor vertically but somewhere in between, just to give the researchers another headache.

The Ghost and Goblin Park is huge, covering an area of more than 80 square kilometers.

“Hugo’s Heavenly Pool” in Villa Felicidad is fed by the clean, but extremely cold Río Zarco.

A unique natural marvel

“The next largest place displaying these phenomena is Goblin Canyon New Mexico, which measures less than a square kilometer in size, a magnitude smaller than what you will find in Jalisco,” says John Wright.

Could there be another site like this somewhere else in the world?

 “We’ve been looking,” says Wright. “New Zealand has the perfect conditions for this, but if they had pipes and goblins, we would have seen photos by now. South America is another good candidate, but it’s crawling with geologists and none have reported anything like this. At the moment, Tala seems the world champion: the largest paleo-fumarolic area known on the planet.”

 “And then, it has the Great Wall of Pipes,” adds Wright, with a sparkle in his eye. “Where else are you going to find something like that?” 

John Pint has lived near Guadalajara, Jalisco, for more than 30 years and is the author of A Guide to West Mexico’s Guachimontones and Surrounding Area and co-author of Outdoors in Western Mexico. More of his writing can be found on his website.