Friday, August 1, 2025

Gold medals for teachers cost education ministry 218 million pesos

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The awards honor 40-year veteran teachers.
The awards honor 40-year veteran teachers.

The federal government’s austerity drive didn’t stop it from spending over 200 million pesos on gold medals to honor veteran teachers.

The Ministry of Public Education (SEP) purchased 3,308 medals last year at a total cost of more than 218.2 million pesos (US $11 million), according to a contract seen by the newspaper El Universal.

Each 42-gram Maestro Altamirano Medal, awarded to teachers who have worked in public or SEP-affiliated private schools for 40 years, cost 65,966 pesos (US $3,325).

The medal – which was first awarded over 80 years ago – is named after Ignacio Manuel Altamirano, a 19th century writer, teacher, journalist, lawyer, politician and diplomat.

The SEP purchased the more than 3,000 engraved medals from the jewelry company Talleres de los Ballesteros, which has stores in Mexico City and several states.

The contract was awarded directly, that is without a competitive tendering process. It is public but one of its clauses states that the information derived from the two parties entering into the contract as well as all information the SEP provides to the company is confidential.

Three high-ranking SEP officials signed the contract as did Mario Arturo Flores Majul, a representative of Talleres de los Ballesteros.

Delfina Gómez became public education minister in February 2021, but her name doesn’t appear on the contract.

President López Obrador has made austerity a centerpiece of his administration, and has eschewed the personal trappings of power such as the presidential plane and official residence, which was turned into a cultural center.

With reports from El Universal 

Hidalgo biosphere reserve offers something new to see at nearly every turn

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Basalt formation at the Barranca de Aguacatitlán. Alejandro Linares Garcia

Being a gringa (a female gringo), I tend to research a place before I go, especially when it’s off the beaten tourist path; it helps to get a sense of what to see.

But in Mexico’s rural areas, knowing where to go is only half the battle.

Such is the case with the Barranca de Metztitlán biosphere reserve in Hidalgo. This more-than-96,000-hectare protected area is recognized by UNESCO’s World Networks of Biosphere Reserves but is unknown to foreigners and even to most Mexicans.

UNESCO and the Mexican federal government list it as the Barranca of Metztitlán, but in reality, it encompasses an area with four small canyons (barrancas) named after the four rivers of the area: the Amajac, the Metztitlán, the Almolón and the Metzquititlán. These canyons vary from 300 meters to almost four kilometers wide.

The massive amounts of water here allow for irrigated farming here, something not common in Mexico. Corn and other crops to grow year-round. Alejandro Linares García

The other major formation is Lake Metztitlán.

This jumble of geological formations and ecosystems offers new and wonderful scenery around just about every turn as you wind up and down mountains and canyon sides. Geologically, it’s a mix of both sedimentary and igneous rock, due to its history of arising from the sea, then having lava and ash spewed over it. Seismic activity lifted and folded this rock, and erosion exposed it.

The average altitude is 1,353 meters above sea level, but it is extremely rugged as elevations vary from 800 to 2,000 meters within only a few kilometers, generally because of the canyons.

The biosphere has many different plant species, including pines, mezquite and other trees as well as scrub, but the most important are the cacti, with over 60 species found in the zone some various meters high. What is most striking overall is the contrast between lush green of the canyon bottoms with the rock, cactus and scrub along the sides and up top.

This is because this is an arid and semi-arid area, but it receives significant water as part of the Moctezuma River basin, an important flow of water for eastern Mexico.

The most visible aspect of this river system is Lake Metztitlán, a shallow body of water and wetlands system formed when a landslide of limestone blocked the Venado River, forming a natural dam. The average depth is only nine to 10 meters, and its expanse varies greatly between the dry and wet seasons.

The lake is not only extremely important to the local ecology but also to migrating birds from the United States and Canada, prompting its inclusion in the Ramsar Convention in 2004.

Although a biosphere reserve, it is not a park. Humans have lived here since the stone age, with arrowheads, cave paintings, ceramic shards and more found in exposed rock.

Panoramic demonstrating the size of the Santos Reyes monastery in Metztitlán built in the 16th century. RubeHM/Creative Commons

The area was important to the Aztecs because of trade routes here, forcing locals to fight to keep their independence. After the Spanish conquest, the two main population centers were established — Metztitlán, with its massive 16th-century fortress of a monastery, Santos Reyes, and Metzquititlán.

Since becoming a reserve, life goes on pretty much as before. About 75% of the land is still agricultural; the rivers are used for extensive irrigation, and the lake is used for fish farming.

There are restrictions — in particular a ban on collecting cactus species and measures to protect the bat populations in the many caves. However, these have had only moderate success.

Most residents support an end to poaching and “reforesting” cactus areas, but since 2000, the number of cactus species has dwindled from 120 to only 62. Bat protection faces resistance as many consider them a threat to livestock.

The direst issue is that of Lake Metztitlán. Its recession recently has been extreme, with the lake drying almost entirely in 2020 and 2021.

The natural and rural scenery is some of the best I have experienced in Mexico, but it is not easy to see. Most attractions are in the north of the biosphere with a couple in the south. The heart of the reserve is the area between the town and Lake Metztitlán, where the canyon is very wide with a large flat very green agricultural area below and a church on a large rock formation in the middle of it all.

The lake in the dry season is small, but you can see evidence of how it grows and shrinks. The best views are on the west side, but there are no roads to that part for the average car.

Other attractions include waterfalls at Aguacatitlán and El Salitre, several lookout points for panoramic views, a cactus sanctuary in Metztitlán, caves with paintings and bat colonies and capricious rock formations. Nothing is marked on the roads, so you have to rely on Google maps and asking locals. All roads have bad sections (at the very least), and many are impractical for most cars.

Fields in the wide space between the town of Metztitlán and Lake Metztitlán, surrounded by dry canyon walls. Alejandro Linares García

The most developed attractions are at the southern end near the bustling tourist area between Huasca de Ocampo and Pachuca. The Barranca de Aguacatitlán is a worthwhile side trip from Huasca, especially for early risers that like to hike before it is too hot.

Here are a fair amount of services for tourists such as horseback riding, cabins, camping, and restaurants. In the north, however, these are much fewer, with lodging, food and iffy cell phone/internet connections limited to Metztitlán and Metzquititlán.

In the end, the biosphere reserve is a wonderful drive for those willing to trade off smooth road conditions for spectacular scenery and a lack of crowds. You may get disappointments: we could not find the waterfall at El Salitre nor get to the Cueva de la Malinche for lack of an available local guide. What we could see, however, was more than enough to satisfy a couple of wandering shutterbugs.

Leigh Thelmadatter arrived in Mexico 18 years ago and fell in love with the land and the culture in particular its handcrafts and art. She is the author of Mexican Cartonería: Paper, Paste and Fiesta (Schiffer 2019). Her culture column appears regularly on Mexico News Daily.

The secret of guajillo chiles

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Guajillo chiles add just a touch of heat but deepen and intensify flavors.

They’re the secret to classic adobada, the best enchiladas rojas and, in my opinion, the most irresistible salsas. Guajillo chiles, with their earthy, robust flavor, distinctive dark red color and touch of heat, are the second most commonly used dried chile in Mexican cuisine after ancho (poblano) peppers — and rightly so.

Guajillo chiles are dried mirasol peppers and are almost never used fresh. Undoubtedly, you’ve seen bins and bags of them in your local mercado (or in the Mexican food sections up north); perhaps, like me, you’ve shied away from trying to cook with them yourself.

You can pretty much bet that any dark red sauce in Mexican food includes guajillo chiles; whether on tacos or enchiladas, in pork or beef adobada, their bright, sharp, slightly smoky flavor brings complexity and richness to any recipe.

Dried and ground, the powder deepens the flavor of dark chocolate, wakes up tomatoes and adds pizzazz to comforting soups and stews. (Next time you make brownies or chocolate cake, try adding a tablespoonful of guajillo powder to the batter.)

Enchiladas Rojas
Pretty much any dark red sauce in Mexican food probably includes guajillo chiles.

While you can buy fresh guajillo (WHA-HEE-YO) chiles and dry them yourself, it’s much easier to buy them already dried, sold packaged or in bulk in grocery stores and mercados. They should be pliable and sort of leathery; if they break when you bend them or feel crackly, they’re old and won’t have the flavor you’re looking for.

Once home, keep them in an airtight container — either in a cupboard or, for longer periods, in the freezer. An important note: do wear rubber gloves when handling chiles, as they can irritate the skin.

 Salsa de Guajillo

  • 10 guajillo chiles, seeds and stems removed
  • 3 arbol chiles, seeds and stems removed
  • 2-3 cups boiling water
  • 2 tomatoes, quartered
  • 1 garlic clove
  • ¾ tsp. salt, more to taste

In cast-iron pan over high heat, toast peppers until aromatic and their skin deepens in color, about 2 minutes. Remove peppers from pan; place in large bowl. Pour enough boiling water over peppers to cover; set aside 15 minutes.

Wipe out pan, reduce heat to medium-high. Place tomatoes in pan skin side down.

Cook until skins are dark and blistery, about 10 minutes, then mash tomatoes in the pan with a wooden spoon while continuing to cook until completely tender and somewhat reduced, 5 minutes or so. Remove from heat.

Using tongs, remove peppers from water and place in blender, reserving soaking liquid. Add tomatoes, garlic, salt and 1 cup of reserved liquid. Blend until smooth, then strain through a fine sieve, using a spatula to help push salsa through. Taste and adjust salt as needed.

For smoky chipotle salsa: Add 4 dried chipotle chiles to bowl of rehydrating peppers, or add 4 canned chipotle peppers, scraped of their adobo sauce, directly to blender.

Carne Adobada

  • 2 dried guajillo chiles
  • 1 chipotle chile in adobo (canned)
  • ½ small yellow onion, chopped
  • 3 garlic cloves, peeled
  • 1 teaspoon cumin seeds
  • 2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice
  • 1½ pounds flank steak
  • Salt
  • 2 tsp. dried oregano
  • 1 Tbsp. olive oil
  • ½ cup chopped cilantro

Place guajillos in small bowl. Add hot water to cover; soak until softened, about 10 minutes. Drain, stem and seed the chiles. Using a blender or food processor, purée guajillos, chipotle, onion, garlic, cumin, 2 Tbsp. lime juice and 2 Tbsp. water until smooth. Add another tablespoon of water if needed.

guajillo brownies
Add a tablespoon of guajillo powder to your brownie batter for even more chocolatey goodness.

Pat steak dry with paper towels. Season generously on both sides with salt and oregano. Place in a large bowl or resealable plastic bag, add chile marinade and turn to coat both sides. Marinate at least 30 minutes at room temperature or refrigerate for up to 12 hours.

In large, heavy skillet, heat 1 Tbsp. oil over medium-high. Place steak in hot oil, discarding marinade; cook until seared and deep golden brown, 4–5 minutes. Flip and cook until seared and golden on other side, 4–5 minutes for medium-rare. (Or use an outdoor grill.)

Transfer to a cutting board; rest 5 minutes. Slice against the grain.

Enchilada Sauce

  • 4 medium guajillo chiles
  • 2 cloves garlic, peeled
  • 1 (28-ounce) can fire-roasted or regular diced tomatoes
  • ¼ tsp. cumin
  • Pinch black pepper
  • 1 Tbsp. olive oil
  • 2 cups chicken/vegetable broth
  • Salt, to taste
  • Sugar, to taste

Preheat oven to 350 F (177 C). Place guajillos on a baking sheet; heat in oven until puffed up and aromatic, 3–5 minutes. Remove from oven; cool. Stem, seed, then tear into pieces.

Purée chiles, garlic, tomatoes, cumin and black pepper in blender until as smooth as possible. Heat oil in large saucepan over medium-high until shimmering. Using a fine-mesh strainer, strain sauce directly into pan. Cook, stirring constantly, until thickened to consistency of tomato paste, 5–7 minutes.

Add broth, bring to boil, reduce heat and simmer 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Season with salt and sugar to taste.

Sheet-Pan Chilaquiles

  • 6 tomatoes, quartered
  • 1 small yellow onion, quartered
  • 3 cloves garlic, halved lengthwise
  • 1 jalapeño, seeded, halved lengthwise
  • 1¼ cups chicken broth
  • 5 guajillo chiles, stemmed, seeded, torn into large pieces
  • ¼ cup vegetable oil
  • 2 tsp. salt
  • ½ tsp. ground coriander
  • 8 oz. corn tortilla chips
  • 4 cups shredded rotisserie chicken
  • Toppings: sliced radishes, chopped white onion, avocado slices, queso fresco, cilantro, pickled jalapeños

Using a comal or sheet pan under the broiler, mix tomatoes, onion, garlic and jalapeño; cook until lightly charred in spots, turning occasionally, 10–15 minutes. Transfer to blender.

In small saucepan, combine broth and dried chiles; bring to a boil. Remove from heat. Carefully add broth mixture, oil, salt and coriander to blender; purée until smooth.

Heat oven to 425 F (220 C) degrees. On sheet pan, toss chips with 2 cups of sauce; spread in an even layer. Toss chicken with remaining sauce, arrange on top of the chips; roast until warmed through, about 5 minutes.

Garnish with toppings and serve.

Janet Blaser is the author of the best-selling book, Why We Left: An Anthology of American Women Expatsfeatured on CNBC and MarketWatch. She has lived in Mexico since 2006. You can find her on Facebook.

Raising eyebrows, crops and wages: the week at the morning press conferences

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President López Obrador speaks at his Wednesday press conference.
President López Obrador speaks at his Wednesday press conference. Presidencia de la República

Farming was top of mind for President López Obrador last week. He visited Nuevo León, Veracruz, Jalisco, Puebla and Mexico City to promote the production of staple foods to meet national consumption. He also celebrated Teachers’ Day in the capital, where a healthy raise for Mexico’s 1.18 million educators was announced.

Monday

A focus on self-sufficiency, the president said on Monday, meant fuel costs only went up 0.6% in April compared to 2.1% in the United States. On the flip side, he said food prices rose 3.6% last month, much more than on the other side of the Rio Grande.

The president called for ramped up production of corn, flour, beans and fertilizer. “Without corn there is no country. Everyone go and plant corn and beans. Everyone, everyone, everyone to plant. Toward self sufficiency,” he implored.

On violence, López Obrador reiterated that all lives should be protected, including those of criminals. “I said that everyone’s life has to be protected and that the most important thing is life. They said … it was a slip. But no, that’s how I think … the governor of Texas … makes fun of me … for saying hugs, not bullets. It clashes with his mentality,” he said, before lamenting a mass shooting of mainly African Americans in the U.S. on Sunday.

AMLO confirmed that the organizers of June’s Summit of the Americas would visit on Wednesday. The president has said he won’t attend the event in Los Angeles if any Latin American leader doesn’t receive an invitation.

Tuesday

The conference was broadcast from the capital’s city hall on Tuesday, and the president was welcomed by Mexico City Mayor Claudia Sheinbaum.

Mexico City Mayor Claudia Sheinbaum discusses government social programs at Tuesday's press conference.
Mexico City Mayor Claudia Sheinbaum discusses government social programs at Tuesday’s press conference. Presidencia de la República

Sheinbaum said homicides were at a historic low in Mexico City, below two per day, and the defense minister confirmed that all categories of crime were down in the capital.

Sheinbaum added that Line 12 of the Metro, which collapsed killing 26 people in May, 2021, should be back running by November.

Later in the conference, the president offered fierce criticism and cautious optimism of U.S. President Joe Biden’s decision to relieve some economic sanctions on Cuba. “We celebrate the advancement … although I would like there to be no blockade because it’s a violation of human rights. That’s a medieval policy,” he said.

On his potential successor, the president said all his deputies were highly valued. “I really love Claudia [Sheinbaum]. And Adán [Augusto] … is my countryman. Marcelo [Ebrard] is doing a first class job,” he said.

“You don’t know how much … I love them,” López Obrador continued, before offering his affections to the health minister, the deputy health minister, the head of the Mexican Social Security Institute, the navy minister, the defense minister and the head of the National Guard.

Wednesday

“It’s important to know how our adversaries lie and slander in their desperation, because they would like to go back to the corrupt regime of injustice and privileges … they miss corruption,” the president said to introduce the weekly section on media misinformation.

In the “Who’s who in the lies of the week” section, truth seeker Ana García Vilchis said a law potentially breaking financial privacy rules predated the current administration and assured that images of AMLO ignoring Cubans while on the Caribbean island was fake. She insisted that 500 Cuban doctors coming to Mexico weren’t going to take the jobs of Mexican practitioners.

AMLO speaks as Ana García Vilchis waits to present her section.
AMLO speaks as Ana García Vilchis waits to present her report. Presidencia de la República

García, a fake news expert, added that the budget for museums wasn’t being cut and clarified that U.S. rapper Eminem hadn’t created a protest song about AMLO.

Following criticism from Mexican doctors, the president said bringing Cuban medics to the country was urgent. “One of the most frequent deaths, especially in rural areas, are heart attacks because there are no cardiologists … I had a heart attack and I was saved because I was in the city, half an hour from a hospital. But if it took me half an hour longer I wouldn’t be here,” he said.

Thursday

Deputy Security Minister Ricardo Mejía Berdeja addressed crime in the “Zero impunity” section on Thursday. He said a cartel leader known as “The Vulture” had been caught in México state and that 66 cartel members in crime-ridden Zacatecas had been arrested, including members of a local criminal group that calls themselves “The Talibans.”

In some cases, big fish weren’t just the perpetrators, but the victims. Mejía confirmed arrests had been made for the illegal trade of totoaba, a large fish species found in the Gulf of California, whose swim bladder is considered a delicacy in China.

After almost US $1.25 billion was committed to teachers on Sunday, the president said the government would be reaching back into the coffers to raise wages for soldiers, navy personnel, police officers, doctors and nurses.

The tabasqueño regretted that he wouldn’t make it to a ceremony dedicated to 90-year-old French-born Mexican journalist Elena Poniatowska. He said Poniatowska was Mexico’s greatest female writer, because she had combined “intellectual work with a love for the people.”

Poniatowska is perhaps most famous for her book Massacre in Mexico, which contains testimonies of the 1968 student massacre in Mexico City, where some 300 people were killed by the armed forces.

Deputy Security Minister Ricardo Mejía gives the week's security report on Thursday.
Deputy Security Minister Ricardo Mejía gives the week’s security report on Thursday. Presidencia de la República

Friday

AMLO was in Ciudad Obregón, Sonora, for the conference on Friday. The city is in Cajeme municipality, a center of Yaqui culture, which is where the president said “the most violence is being endured.”

Governor Alfonso Durazo said 96% of murders in the state were due to narcotrafficking and that 98% of femicide cases had been resolved.

An enthusiastic economy minister, in the shape of Tatiana Clouthier, dropped in by video link from London to report that the government was negotiating a free trade agreement with the United Kingdom.

On violence, the president said his government wasn’t directly to blame for high rates of homicide. “Now crimes don’t have anything to do with authority … before … [The state] was the principal violator of human rights. Now it’s not like that, because that relation of complicity doesn’t exist anymore. We’ve avoided an association between authority and organized crime,” he said.

Mexico News Daily

US announces US $30 million in aid for southeast

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Mileydi Guilarte, seen here with US Ambassador Ken Salazar, right, announced the US initiative at a meeting of Mexico's southern governors.

The United States government has announced a new US $30 million employment and sustainability program for seven states in Mexico’s south and southeast.

Mileydi Guilarte, an official with the United States Agency for International Development (USAID), announced the initiative Thursday at a meeting of the governors of southern and southeastern states in Mexico City.

The program is called Surges, a Spanish-language acronym for “Generating Employment and Sustainability in the South of Mexico.”

It will be implemented in Campeche, Chiapas, Oaxaca, Quintana Roo, Tabasco, Veracruz and Yucatán.

US Ambassador Ken Salazar told southern governors that US President Joe Biden is committed to southeast Mexico’s economic success.

“With Surges, USAID will seek to invest $30 million in the development of markets that are friendly with the environment,” Guilarte said, adding that it will operate as a public-private partnership.

“Surges will support sustainable economic development, helping to have a positive impact on communities’ way of life,” she said.

The United States Embassy said in a statement that the program will generate sales and investment of over $250 million. It is slated to start at the end of summer.

United States Ambassador Ken Salazar told the governors’ meeting that United States President Joe Biden is committed to the economic success of North America, including Mexico’s southeast. “The success of Mexico is the success of North America,” he said.

President López Obrador has called for the United States to support development in southern Mexico and Central America, and in March criticized the U.S. for taking so long to approve aid for the region when it promptly authorized resources to help Ukraine in its war against Russia.

The U.S. Senate on Thursday approved a $40 billion package of military, economic and food aid for Ukraine. The outlay for the new program in Mexico’s south and southeast is just 0.07% of that amount.

However, the U.S. government is investing more broadly in the region via a program called Promosur.

Salazar on Twitter thanked his U.S. Embassy and USAID colleagues for launching that program. “This initiative encompasses all the United States assistance programs to promote development and sustainable investment in Mexico’s south-southeast region,” he wrote.

Details of the initiative are not yet clear, but USAID could launch programs similar to its tech training program in places like El Salvador, which partners with local forces to train Hondurans in tech-related job skills.

In addition, the United States agreed last September to collaborate with Mexico on employment programs in the southern region of the country and in Central America, while López Obrador and Biden discussed development cooperation in a call in late April.

They are due to meet in early June at the Summit of the Americas, but López Obrador has threatened to boycott the regional meeting if Cuba, Venezuela and Nicaragua aren’t invited.

Federal officials and governors from southern and southeastern states met with Salazar last October to discuss investment and development, and the federal government subsequently said that the “productive dialogue” set a goal of $25 billion in investment between 2022 and 2024 “to trigger economic growth” in Mexico’s southeast with a view to stemming migration.

The $250 million Surges-related investment figure cited by the U.S. embassy represents just 1% of that amount. Nevertheless, any additional funding and investment is welcome.

Mexico and the United States have sought to reset their relationship since Biden took office early last year, with U.S. Vice President Kamala Harris declaring last June that the two countries are “embarking on a new era” in bilateral relations. The neighbors entered into a new security agreement last December.

However, there have been differences between the two countries, including on Mexico’s energy sector policies and the United States’ funding – via USAID – of civil society organizations that López Obrador has branded as opponents of his administration.

In what the president describes as Mexico’s long-neglected southern and southeastern region, the two countries appear to have a common goal, although Mexican authorities would undoubtedly like an even bigger financial commitment from their superpower neighbor.

The Mexican government is investing billions of dollars in the region to spur economic development, mainly via large infrastructure projects such as the Maya Train railroad, the Dos Bocas refinery and the Isthmus of Tehuantepc trade corridor.

President López Obrador has long called for the US to support development in southern Mexico and Central America as a bulwark against migration northward.

The refinery, located on the Tabasco coast, is scheduled to begin operations in July while the Maya Train, which will run through Tabasco, Campeche, Yucatán, Quintana Roo and Chiapas, is slated to begin services next year.

The latter is opposed by many Mayan communities and environmentalists, who say the construction and operation of the train will harm the environment. Experts have questioned the wisdom of building a new refinery as the project diverts resources from Pemex’s more profitable exploration business.

With reports from Milenio and El País

UK hopes to conclude deal with Pacific trade bloc, including Mexico, this year

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U.K. International Trade Secretary Anne-Marie Trevelyan, left, poses with Economy Minister Tatiana Clouthier, right.
U.K. International Trade Secretary Anne-Marie Trevelyan, left, poses with Economy Minister Tatiana Clouthier. Twitter @annietrev

The U.K. is hoping to conclude talks on joining a major Pacific trade bloc by the end of this year as London pursues new commercial opportunities around the world post-Brexit.

Anne-Marie Trevelyan, international trade secretary, told the Financial Times that the U.K. had already completed the first part of the accession to the 11-nation Comprehensive and Progressive Agreement for Trans-Pacific Partnership (CPTPP), a process she likened to “sitting exams”.

Trevelyan added that she was working through the rest of the negotiation. “It’s not unrealistic that we might get there by the end of the year,” she said.

“They’re very enthusiastic about our application and everyone’s working really hard to try and . . . plow through the complexity that is trade language and detail to get there. So I’m hopeful that by the end of the year we should see that crystallize.”

The CPTPP includes fast-growing Asian economies such as Malaysia and Vietnam along with established Pacific players such as Japan, Australia, Mexico and Canada. The U.K. opened talks last June and would be the first nation to accede since the bloc was launched in 2018.

Trevelyan was speaking as the U.K. started negotiations with Mexico on an enhanced trade agreement to replace the one carried over from its EU membership days, which is more than 20 years old.

“Mexico has a really strong and growing market . . . young population and with a high growth curve overall so we want to be making sure we can . . . harness those relationships and grow them.”

Total bilateral trade is currently tiny at about US $5.2 billion and Mexico is the U.K.’s 44th largest trading partner. Commerce between the nations is less than 1% of Mexico’s $661 billion annual goods trade with the neighboring U.S.

Mexico's young population and high growth curve are part of the driving force behind the U.K.'s desire to build a stronger trade relationship with the country, the British trade minister said.
Mexico’s young population and high growth curve are part of the driving force behind the U.K.’s desire to build a stronger trade relationship with the country, the British trade minister said.

London hopes a new agreement focused on services and the digital economy will grow trade with Mexico by 30%-40% in the next few years, Trevelyan added. It is the third set of trade talks launched by the U.K. this year, after those with India and Canada.

Latin American nations complain that Britain has paid them little attention in recent years, despite the region’s wealth of natural resources and human talent. Total trade between the U.K. and Latin America was $22.6 billion in 2021, down 4.5% from a decade earlier, according to official data.

Trevelyan said the U.K. viewed Latin America, which together with the Caribbean has a gross domestic product of $4.7 trillion, as “integral and important” for trade. She is pursuing talks with Brazil on extending an existing trade partnership and her team is also speaking to Colombia.

Mexico was chosen as a priority along with Canada for a new agreement because both nations are CPTPP members. “We want to . . . get those extra layers of potential trade opportunities beyond the CPTPP,” Trevelyan explained. Clean energy and fintech were among the exports that the U.K. could offer.

As foreign secretary, William Hague tried in 2010 to boost trade and investment with Latin America by opening new embassies, appointing a regional trade commissioner and boosting trade visits.

A report from the Canning House think tank concluded 10 years later that “in terms of U.K. exports to the region, the results have been poor.” The U.K. accounted for less than 1% of Latin America’s trade by 2018, well behind its main European competitors.

© 2022 The Financial Times Ltd. All rights reserved. Please do not copy and paste FT articles and redistribute by email or post to the web.

Nayarit’s Ceboruco volcano’s seven craters offer endless hiking options

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Ceboruco Volcano’s lower crater
Hiking this volcano gives you a variety of stunning views of the Nayarit landscape. Chris Lloyd

“Let’s go camp on top of Ceboruco Volcano to see the Lyrid meteor shower,” suggested my friend, geologist Chris Lloyd. “The next morning, we can go take a look at a fumarole with beautiful sulfur crystals. It’s in the upper crater.”

Now, a fumarole is a hole that emits hot gases and vapors, and Ceboruco is a big volcano in the state of Nayarit, a two-hour drive northwest of Guadalajara.

Ceboruco was one of the first places I described in my Outdoors in Western Mexico books. I had been lured there by the man guarding the archaeological ruins outside the nearby town of Ixtlan, Nayarít.

“If you’re looking for a place to camp around here,” he told me, “all I can say is that the most beautiful sight I have ever seen is the view from the top of Ceboruco volcano.”

Ceboruco Volcano, Nayarit
Geologist Chris Lloyd looks down into the High Crater.

Like him, I too had been enchanted by the massive mountain and its most impressive crater and had returned countless times to camp and hike there.

For this reason, I found it a bit embarrassing to ask Chris my next question: “The upper crater? You mean Ceboruco has more than one crater?”

“Oh, John, you have no idea. There are nested craters on Ceboruco: at least seven! You have to go see this for yourself.”

Once again, I was hooked.

Ceboruco Volcano, Nayarit
Delicate, yellowish-green sulfur crystals surround a fumarole vent.

We left for Nayarit late in the afternoon of April 22, the day numerous internet sites said we had the best chance to see shooting stars —  “perhaps 100 per hour,” some sources claimed.

We exited the Puerto Vallarta toll road, crossed the little town of Jala and started up the steep, well-maintained road to the antennas at the top of the volcano.

“This time of day, we’ve always spotted roadrunners,” I told Chris.” I guarantee we will see one.”

And we saw two — which is two more than the number of shooting stars I saw not many hours later when we were lying flat on our backs near our tents gazing up at a perfectly clear sky unaffected by the glow of any nearby cities.

map of Ceboruco Volcano, Nayarit
Even a layman can see several nested craters (black lines) in this geological map of the volcano. K. Sieron & C. Siebe

At 10 p.m., I gave up and crawled into my tent. Chris persevered and finally saw two. The following day, I saw enough craters to make me forget the Lyrids completely.

We started along the trail that I traditionally followed to reach the only crater I knew. This takes you past picturesque green meadows overshadowed by great, high walls of jet-black lava rubble, a stunning contrast that never fails to astonish me.

“Why are these walls so nicely vertical?” I asked Chris. “Did the lava come up against some obstacle that is now gone?”

“You see a wall because this lava wasn’t flowing horizontally. It was actually pushed up from below through a fissure which we call a dike — and it solidified right there, cracking and crumbling as it cooled.”

town of Ahuacatlán, Nayarit
Looming over the town of Ahuacatlán, Nayarit, Ceboruco is considered one of Mexico’s highest-risk volcanoes. Iswy via Mapio.

After a walk of two kilometers along a well-worn path sign-posted “Crater,” we turned onto a side trail heading steeply upward (at N21.13176 W104.51429, if you have a GPS).

This trail takes you right up the spine of a great, narrow, curving wall. From the top of the ridge, even non-geologists could see that they are standing on the rim of a very big crater — definitely not the crater I’ve been visiting for years.

This I will call the High Crater, to distinguish it from the others.

The view was utterly magnificent. Eventually, you reach a point where you see the High Crater simply by turning your head to the left and the old “Traditional Crater” far, far below, when you look to the right.

Ceboruco Volcano, Nayarit
A sign directs visitors to the 2.8-kilometer-long trail leading to the Traditional Crater.

Once we rounded the High Crater and reached the opposite wall, we found ourselves standing at the very pinnacle of Ceboruco, my GPS indicating an altitude of 2,281 meters.

From this point, looking southeast, what did I see but yet another crater, so huge that I had never recognized it as such even though I had driven right through it on the way up.

This one I’ll call the Puma Crater In honor of the nocturnal visitor I had while camping there a year or so ago.

From the very highest point on Ceboruco, we descended into the High Crater to visit several fumaroles and, of course, to gaze in awe at the enchanting yellow-green, featherlike sulfur crystals.

Ceboruco volcano in 1870
Drawing showing what Ceboruco looked like during its 1870 eruption. Iglesias et all, 1877

Finally, we completed our loop of the High Crater and returned to the main trail. I asked Chris for a geological resume of how Ceboruco volcano was formed — in layman’s terms, naturally.

“Volcanic activity around here started in the year A.D. 1000,” began my friend, “but Ceboruco’s big explosion took place in 1005. Around 3.5 cubic kilometers of material were ejected into the air. This was a very volatile pyroclastic event three times the size of the Mount Saint Helens explosion.”

I learned that the column of ash rose as high as 30 kilometers and only recently have researchers discovered proof that tephra particles from what is now called The Great Jala Plinian Eruption of Ceboruco reached as far as Europe.

After that, things were quiet for one hundred years, Chris told me, and then, in 1100, there was another big explosion which sent two cubic kilometers of volcanic rubble and ash (called jal in Mexico) into the air.

Trail on Ceboruco Volcano, Nayarit
The wide, ashy, well-trod trail to the Traditional Crater.

Curiously, more events took place in 1200, 1300 and 1400, nicely spaced one century apart… and then there was a long period of quiet until 1870.

Commented Chris: “This is when the Dos Equis Eruption, as they call it, occurred. It was the volcano’s last gasp, and you can see it today at the very top of Ceboruco, just above those fumaroles with the sulfur crystals.”

“Last gasp,” by the way, is a very relative expression. Ceboruco is, today, considered among the five volcanoes with the highest risk in Mexico, and the second most active in the western Trans-Mexican Volcanic Belt after the Colima Fire Volcano.

Although Ceboruco gets relatively few visitors — and the upper area, hardly any at all — there is a very well delineated trail all along the narrow rim of the highest crater. My suspicion is that this trail was blazed long ago by explorers who, like some of us today, were curious to see all of Ceboruco from its highest point and felt a sense of awe upon discovering its many nested craters.

Ceboruco Volcano, Nayarit
The author starts up the steep trail which then skirts the rim of the High Crater.

Ceboruco Volcano is about two hours from Guadalajara and three hours from Lake Chapala. An ordinary car can make it, but a high-clearance vehicle would be better.

You’ll find the hiking trail to the High Crater on Wikiloc.

The writer has lived near Guadalajara, Jalisco, since 1985. His most recent book is Outdoors in Western Mexico, Volume Three. More of his writing can be found on his blog.

 

Ceboruco Volcano, Nayarit
Lichen and Spanish moss adorn most of the trees atop Ceboruco.

 

Ceboruco Volcano, Nayarit
Chris Lloyd at the highest point of the Dos Equis eruption, representing Ceboruco’s last gasp (for the moment).

 

sulfur crystals at Ceboruco Volcano
Another vent featuring feather-like sulfur crystals.

 

sky above Ceboruco volcano
Stars above a wall of lava rubble. Ceboruco is a favorite place for observing astronomical events.

AMLO’s Morena party gets top marks; approval rating well above other parties

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López Obrador celebrates after registering as a pre-candidate for president, in 2017.
López Obrador celebrates after registering as a pre-candidate for president, in 2017. lopezobrador.org.mx

The ruling Morena party – with which President López Obrador swept to power in 2018 – is easily Mexico’s most popular political party, a new poll found.

In a survey conducted earlier this week, the polling company Poligrama asked 1,000 people to offer an opinion on seven political parties.

The National Regeneration Movement, or Morena – founded by López Obrador as a civil society organization in 2011 before becoming a political party in 2014 – was the only party that was seen in a positive light by a majority of respondents.

Just under 42% of those polled said they had an excellent opinion of Morena while just over 19% said they had a good opinion of the party. A combined 61% of respondents assessed Morena positively, well above the rate for the other six parties.

Nearly 42% of poll respondents reported having an excellent opinion of Morena.
Nearly 42% of poll respondents reported having an excellent opinion of Morena. Poligrama

Poligrama said the high rating was related to López Obrador’s high personal approval rating, which was almost 67% in its latest poll.

The poll comes almost a year after a midterm federal election at which Morena lost its majority in the lower house of Congress and the two-thirds supermajority it shared with its allies. However, the ruling party attracted more support than any other party, garnering about 35% of the total vote.

The National Action Party (PAN), the main opposition party in terms of representation in Congress, was assessed as excellent by just over 12% of poll respondents and good by 11%. Almost 51% of those polled said they had a terrible opinion of the conservative party, compared to just 24% who said the same about Morena.

Just over 14% of respondents said they had a bad opinion of the PAN – which ruled Mexico between 2000 and 2012 under presidents Vicente Fox and Felipe Calderón – while the figure for Morena was just over 9%.

Morena’s net rating (positive opinions minus negative opinions) was + 27.4% while the PAN’s was – 41.47%.

About one in 20 respondents didn’t offer an opinion about Morena while more than one in 10 didn’t say what they thought about the PAN.

The Institutional Revolutionary Party (PRI), which ruled Mexico for most of the 20th century and the six years before López Obrador took office, had a net rating that was even worse than the PAN at -42.2%.

The poor result suggests that the once omnipotent PRI is still damaged by the six scandal-filled years that former president Enrique Peña Nieto was in office.

The PRI party, which rulled Mexico from 1929 to 2000, was negatively rated by most respondents.
The PRI, which ruled Mexico from 1929 to 2000, was negatively rated by most respondents. Poligrama

Fewer than 11% of respondents assessed the party as excellent, about 9% said it was good, almost 14% rated it as bad and nearly 49% said it was terrible. The PRI, which has a loose alliance with the PAN and the Democratic Revolution Party (PRD), has the third highest number of lawmakers in federal Congress.

The net ratings for the other four parties were -45.2% for the leftist PRD, López Obrador’s former party; -25.88% for the Labor Party, a Morena ally; -42.19% for the Ecological Green Party of Mexico, which also supports Morena in Congress; and -18.09% for the Citizens Movement (MC) party, which has two state governors in Enrique Alfaro of Jalisco and Samuel García of Nuevo León.

That means that MC was the second most popular party among the Poligrama poll respondents while simultaneously being very unpopular.

The publication of the survey comes ahead of gubernatorial elections in six states early next month. Voters in Aguascalientes, Durango, Hidalgo, Oaxaca, Quintana Roo and Tamaulipas will go to the polls on June 5.

Morena currently governs 16 federal entities including Mexico City, and will be looking to add to that total next month. The PAN rules seven states while the PRI governs three.

The next presidential election will be held in 2024. López Obrador, who sets the political agenda at his marathon weekday press conferences, cannot be reelected. He received about 90% support at last month’s “revocation of mandate” recall referendum, but voter turnout was low.

With reports from EFE 

My biggest regret in moving to Mexico

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The malecón in Chapala, one of Mexico's popular destinations for retirees.
The malecón in Chapala, one of Mexico's popular destinations for retirees. File photo

You can hear profound statements in the most unlikely places.

A few years ago, when I was 61 or so, I was in a water aerobics class here in Mexico. One of my classmates was a woman a good bit older than me who told me that after building her dream home with her husband just two years ago they were selling it because, now that they were older, they realized that the house was “too much” for them. She then paused a beat, and with a tone that could best be described as equal parts intensity mixed with regret, she looked at me straight in my eyes, and said:

“We waited too long.”

This was so sad, so simple, and so meaningful that I had nothing to say.

After a few seconds, she looked at me again and repeated her unforgiving reality:

“We waited too long.”

A few years earlier, when I was in my mid-50s, I was interviewing Mike Cobb, who is an expert in living abroad. I asked him, “What is the thing people most often say to you about moving abroad?”

Mike’s answer was unequivocal, and it was immediate.

“The thing they most often say is, ‘I wish I had done it sooner.’”

Of course, this isn’t true for everyone, but it is true for lots of people, most likely the majority.

Jump forward to the present. As I’ve written before, Mexico has been very good for my wife and me. Our lifestyle here in Mexico is much better here than it would be if we had stayed in the United States. As part of that lifestyle upgrade, we were looking for real estate.

“We should look for a one-story home,” my wife told me.

I had absolutely no idea why she would say such a thing, so I asked her.

If Inflation Is So Scary, Why Are Consumers Still Spending?

“Because we’re getting older and in a few years, we may not want to or be able to go up and down stairs.”

What in the world was she talking about?

We are fortunate to both be in extremely good health, so nothing like being worried about something so pedestrian and easy as going up stairs had ever occurred to me. She explained, “We are now in our mid-60s so in 20 years (not an incredibly long time to consider living in a home) we will be in our mid-80s.”

How many couples do you know in their mid-80s where both of them would be happy going up and down stairs?

A phrase from a poem by John Greenleaf Whittier came to mind: “For all the sad words of tongue or pen, the saddest are these: It might have been.” I thought again of that woman I met in the pool.

One day too late is indeed one day too late.

As we get older, every day is more of a gift, because as each day passes, we are closer to the day that we can’t get up the stairs.

Maybe that’s why many older people are more impatient: they just don’t have as much time left for things that don’t really matter.

And they know it.

They know it because things they used to be able to do, they can’t do any longer.

About eight years ago, I was playing basketball when my Achilles tendon ripped. The moment before it ripped, I could play basketball. The moment after, I could not, and would not be able to any longer. No more basketball. It was over in an instant, and without warning. Did I play enough basketball in my life to be satisfied with the amount I had played? My Achilles tendon did not know, and my Achilles tendon did not care. I had played my final minute, whether I had sufficiently enjoyed my previously intact Achilles tendon or not. For me, basketball was over.

The same is true for every aspect of life, including the older woman’s ability to enjoy the dream home she and her husband had waited to build: at some point, it’s over. We just don’t know when. But we do know this: that point is sooner today than it was yesterday.

Among the many gifts that dogs give us, if we’re paying attention, is the gift of seeing the expanse of their lives within a little more than a decade. On average, dogs live about one-seventh as long as we do, so we can be playing with a little puppy one year and then, when we have barely perceived a change in our own lives, 12 years later, we can be witnessing the decline of an older dog.

The other day, I took our dogs to the beach to play with some tennis balls, something I hadn’t done for a few years. One of our dogs has been with me for about 13 years. In her younger days she was a great athlete, able to catch the ball at almost any angle, in the air, over her shoulder, etc. Back then, I delighted in her exploits, hour after hour, and she clearly was delighted to play. One of the other dogs with me that day was one we just rescued, who is about 2 years old. As I threw the ball to the younger one, she was fantastic and joyful, just like the older one used to be.

But the older one was like that no more.

As I threw the ball to the older one, she tried and she wanted to play and she did OK for her age, but many times, she wasn’t able to see the ball well or got confused, and a few times she just let the ball bounce in front of her, where the younger one would scoop it up.

The contrast was so stark, it set me back. I had been witness to the entire athletic career and almost the entire life of another being and now, her decline was obvious. In her youth, she and I had many, many wonderful experiences together playing with the ball, going on long hikes in the mountains, etc. But now, like me and basketball, for her, this part of her life was essentially over. It goes exactly the same for us humans as with dogs; just slower. My dog went from puppy to senior in about 13 years. For me, it took around 50.

I have a daughter in her late 20s who has a dog she loves dearly that has been with her for 12 years. In a phone conversation last night, my daughter told me that her dog was experiencing the typical symptoms of old age that any of us who have had a dog towards their later years understands. When my 20-something daughter sees her dog’s more advanced state, does my daughter understand that, one day many years in the future, she will be in essentially the same situation as her dog? And if she does realize this, how will it order her life for the better, now, when it’s not too late? What decisions will she make differently as a result of this object lesson provided by her dog?

Will she act to find a better life or will she be like the woman in the pool, and wait too long?

Will she have regrets?

What will you do?

Will you have regrets?

As the owner of Best Mexico Movers, I get to know a lot of people who move to Mexico. And most of our clients are older than me. Like the woman in my aerobics class, did they wait too long? Did they put things off for just the right moment and then find out that that moment did not come coupled with their ability to fully enjoy it? The answer is, for many of them unfortunately, that they have.

It was Mark Twain who said: “Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn’t do than by the ones you did. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.”

Mark Twain was brilliant. Like those people Mike Cobb referred to, my biggest regret about moving to Mexico was that we did not do it sooner.

As many people have said, “Tomorrow is promised to no one.” Neither is your good health, or the ability to go up and down stairs in the home of your dreams.

Let’s all be like Frank Sinatra, in Paul Anka’s song My Way: “Regrets, I’ve had a few, but then again, too few to mention.”

The woman in the pool, my grandfather, Mike Cobb’s expats, Paul Anka/Frank Sinatra and, by example, my dog, all had it right, but at different times in their lives. I implore you to get it right early on.

Regrets, just have a few.

If you’re thinking about moving abroad or for that matter, building your dream home or playing with your dog, don’t wait. There is no time like the present.

Chuck Bolotin is a Mexico-based expat and the owner of Best Mexico Movers. He can be reached on LinkedIn or through his website.

Family that lost their home to massive Puebla sinkhole gets a new house

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The Sánchez Xalamihua family outside their new house.
The Sánchez Xalamihua family outside their new house. Instagram @Bienestar_Pue

A family whose home was swallowed by a sinkhole that appeared on their Puebla property last year now has a new house.

The Puebla government spent just under 870,000 pesos (US $43,750) to build a new house for the Sánchez Xalamihua family in Juan C. Bonilla, the same municipality where the sinkhole appeared and grew to almost 130 meters in diameter.

The family received the keys to their new 120-square-meter home on Monday, which was coincidentally the eldest daughter’s 14th birthday.

The Puebla Welfare Ministry announced on Twitter that it handed the house over to the family on the instructions of Governor Miguel Barbosa. The family now has an asset for their children, it said.

The municipality covered the family’s rent while they were waiting for the new home to be built.

The residence is just over half the size of the family’s previous house, which they built themselves. It is not yet connected to the sewage system and lacks access to other public services, but the family nevertheless said that were happy with their new abode.

“The truth is I’m very happy [to be here] with my children,” Magdalena Xalamihua told Imagen Televisión.

“Now we have to work to furnish it,” said Heriberto Sanchez, her husband.

Jonathan Sánchez, the couple’s son, recalled feeling sad when his family lost its home to the sinkhole, which appeared almost a year ago. He said his father had no money at the time and the family didn’t know where they would live.

The sinkhole devoured most of the family’s home about two weeks after it appeared. Two dogs fell into it before that but were subsequently rescued.

One study blamed a massive exploitation of water for the appearance of the sinkhole, but an earlier study by the National Water Commission decided that the most likely cause was the dissolution of calcareous rocks, such as limestone or dolostone.

With reports from El Universal and Excélsior