Oaxaca is one of Mexico’s most devout states, so it’s no surprise that the run up to Lent coincides with extra religious holidays. If you’re an atheist however, fear not, because there’s plenty more to see in March, as Oaxaca celebrates its most famous son, enjoys some high culture and offers the usual array of exciting activities for visitors and residents alike.
Witches Tuesdays
Santa Cruz Xoxocotlán hosts an annual event called “Martes de Bruja” or Witches Tuesdays. This takes place every Tuesday following Ash Wednesday, which marks the beginning of Lent, until Easter. This tradition dates back to colonial times. While churches were being built, wives would bring their husbands tamales. Now they celebrate with tamales, torches and live music.
Live music takes place from 8 p.m. in the park.
When: Every Tuesday until Easter
Where: 3 Genaro V. Vásquez, Cabecera Municipal, Sta Cruz Xoxocotlan
Cost: Free
Take in some Beethoven
Fidelio is an opera by German composer Ludwig van Beethoven, inspired by a true story from the French Revolution. It resonates with contemporary life’s themes of isolation, liberty and humanity. This March, Fidelio is streaming at the beautiful Teatro Macedonia Alcala, built in the early 20th century and seats around 800 people. The opera will be live-streamed from the Metropolitan Opera in New York, complete with Spanish subtitles.
When: March 15, 11 a.m.
Where: Teatro Macedonia Alcala, Oaxaca
Cost: 250 pesos at the box office
Observe the equinox
The spring equinox takes place on March 20 and is a beautiful time to visit one of the various archaeological sites in Oaxaca, like Mitla or Yagul.
There will also be an event in Etla hosted by Aguamiel to welcome spring with a three-day celebration (March 21st, 22nd, and 23rd). This is their fifth annual Spring Equinox festival. There will be lectures, workshops and performances. Food and drink are available inside.
When: March 21, 22 and 23
Where: Agumiel in Guadalupe, Etla
Cost: 50 pesos, extra for the temazcal and Mayan fire ceremony
Celebrate Benito Juárez
March marks the anniversary of the birth of President Benito Juárez, born in Pablo Guelatao, Oaxaca, on March 21, 1806. To commemorate his efforts for the Mexican people, he is remembered on (or near) his birthday every year. On this day, schools, banks, government offices, and many businesses are closed, while people celebrate with parades and fireworks. Ceremonies are held at the Monument to Benito Juárez monument, where floral tributes and speeches celebrate his contribution to the nation.
President Claudia Sheinbaum will also visit Oaxaca to commemorate the anniversary.
When: March 17 (National holiday) and 21 (observance)
Where: Throughout Oaxaca, but in particular at monuments to Benito Juarez and at his hometown of Guelatao
Cost: Free
Kany García live in Oaxaca
On March 23, Puerto Rican Pop singer and songwriter Encarnita “Kany” García de Jesús is performing in Oaxaca. García is known for hits such as “Hoy Ya Me Voy”, “Quédate” and “Para Siempre”, and is the winner of six Latin Grammys.
When: March 23
Where: Guelaguetza Auditorium
Cost: Tickets start at1000 pesos, up to 1900 pesos
Samaritans Day
Samaritans Day is celebrated on the fourth Friday in Lent. This day is observed by recreating a passage in the bible where a Samaritan woman by the name of Photine gave a thirsty Jesus a drink of water at a well (John 4). Although this is not the more famous Samaritan passage (Luke 10), the moral is the same: be kind to everyone, no matter what issues may lie between you.
Samaritans Day follows this idea, with free water offered to one and all. In Oaxaca city people set up with fruit flavored “aguas,” which are given to passersby. Alcala, the main walking street near Santo Domingo church is a good place to find aguas, but get there early before they run out!
When: March 28
Where: Across Oaxaca
Cost: Free
Enjoy some northern sounds with El Trono de México
Regional Mexican band ‘El Trono de México’ specialize in Durango and Tierra Caliente music genres. The genre was influenced by the technobanda sound, using instruments such as electric keyboards, electric bass, trumpets, trombones, saxophones and drums. The electric keyboard gives the genre a signature keyboard riff.
When: March 29
Where: Guelaguetza Auditorium
Cost: From 1400 pesos to 1200 pesos
Discover the cosmos
“Finding the Universe” is an exhibition by Gary Goldberg transforming photographs with felting. The images, taken over a decade around Oaxaca, show forms observed in the deteriorated patina of the ancient city walls. Goldberg explains that he finds “mythological creatures, magical landscapes and faces. I call these images Magical Realism.”
When: Until March 30
Where: Centro Fotografico Manuel Álvarez Bravo (CFMAB), Oaxaca city
Cost: Free
Anna Bruce is an award-winning British photojournalist based in Oaxaca, Mexico. Just some of the media outlets she has worked with include Vice, The Financial Times, Time Out, Huffington Post, The Times of London, the BBC and Sony TV. Find out more about her work at her website or visit her on social media on Instagram or on Facebook.
