If you’ve been to Puerto Vallarta’s beaches in the last few years, you’ve noticed one thing: they are all crowded. Tourism to Puerto Vallarta is higher than ever, with a total of 6 million visitors who arrived in 2023, which is up 10 percent from 2022. And while (for better or worse) business is booming in PV, it’s leaving much to be desired among beachgoers looking for peace and quiet and far fewer all-inclusive resorts.
But for the adventurous set who don’t mind a long drive in search of idyllic, untouched shorelines and more palm trees than people, the Costalegre has been providing a welcome respite from the rattle and hum of Puerto Vallarta’s now “big city” energy. We’ve combed the best beaches of the Costalegre to bring you this handy little guide to where to go for a slice of that slow life.
Where is the Costalegre?
The Costalegre is the stretch of coastline that runs south of Puerto Vallarta towards Manzanillo. These 150 miles are a paradise for nature lovers, peppered with rustic fishing villages, rimmed by mountains, and bordered by vast stretches of uninterrupted crashing Pacific shoreline.
Punta Perula
Two and a half hours south of Puerto Vallarta, you’ll come to the turnoff for Punta Perula. A few minutes off the main road will put you along the dusty main road of this little village that borders the beach. Perula is a sleepy community, but that’s what locals and visitors love most about it. They also love the spectacular stretch of pristine shoreline that wraps around the Bahia de Chamela, where golden sand, gently rolling waves, and mountain ridge views set the scene for this idyllic paradise halfway down the Costalegre.
While exploring Punta Perula, you can hire a panga to visit the islands in the Bahia de Chamela. One of the most popular island excursions is Isla Cocinas, an undeveloped island with a spectacular swath of white sand, perfect for sunbathing and snorkeling.
A handful of rustic, palapa-topped beachfront restaurants line the shorelines. Mariscos Chee Chee is one of the best for its fresh fish and shrimp, served at tables overlooking the beautiful beachfront. The guacamole is a must here. For casual pizza, visit Las Pérula, an open-air wood-fired pizza restaurant just off Avenida Independencia.
Playa Careyitos
This small crescent-shaped beach is about five minutes south of the entrance to the Careyes community of villas, restaurants, and beaches. In fact, the two candy colored Ocean Castles that sit like sentries on the cliff tops at either end of the small bay are two of the most luxurious accommodations at Careyes. However, while the majority of the clientele at the beach is part of the Careyes community, Playa Careyitos is open to the public.
Stunning any time of day, I like going to this beach for sunset, when an orange glow is thrust across the golden sand and the sky explodes with swirling pink and purple. I love watching the fishermen return home for the day and park their boats on the sand by driving as far out into the bay as possible and cruising in at high speeds, flying across the sand to land perfectly in a row on the shore.
The boho chic beach club you see here is called Lilo, and while pricey, it is worth the splurge. Pizzas here are made in an Italian-imported wood-fired oven. The wine list is vetted, and the cocktails are sublime.
Playa Grande, Arroyo Seco
And then there is Arroyo Seco — a very different kind of scene from Playa Careyitos, swapping a bougie beach scene for wild, rugged rock formations and a lonely restaurant made out of bamboo. Turning off of Highway 200, you’ll follow a long, weathered road out to the very small town of Arroyo Seco, population 400. Past the town the road spills out to a sprawling stretch of untamed shoreline, Playa Grande, where surfers come to answer the call of the churning Pacific’s gargantuan waves.
There isn’t much going on in Arroyo Seco, but that’s part of its magic and beauty. It’s a place for people who need no gimmicks or frills to simply enjoy the natural beauty of one of the best beaches in Costalegre.
There is the Capacha Center, home to a turtle sanctuary and Military Macaw rehabilitation center. Captcha Center invites visitors and residents to participate in surfing, standup paddle boarding, biking, and birding.
Rojo Restaurant, a stunning beach house built entirely of bamboo, serves cocktails, cold beer, and fresh seafood. You can even rent two of its bungalows that sit directly on the beach.
Tenacatita
Turning off Highway 200, a very long road passes through the thick, palm shrouded villages and farmlands of villages like Agua Caliente de Apazulco and El Rebaslito de Apazulco. The drive is lengthy, but absolutely beautiful as you feel the main highway slip away behind you. At the end of the road, the view opens out to the running beaches of Tenacatita, a palm-fringed broad crescent strip with strings of ramshackle beach restaurants and bars. Sadly the area has been burdened with a land title dispute, which may threaten the undeveloped nature of the beach, but for now it remains one of the Costalegre’s best-kept secrets.
The energy here is lively and full of good vibes as music blares from underneath colorful umbrellas. Kids snorkel in the calm waters, while adults sip cold beer and snack on freshly caught seafood and oysters. Tenacatita is a far cry from a quiet beach, but it’s full of the spirit that most of us came to chase in Mexico in the first place.
Boca de Iguanas
Many visitors to Costalegre know the small (but growing) village of La Manzanilla, home to one of the best beaches in the state. The perfect spot here is at the north end of the bay, called Boca de Iguanas. The bright, soft sand here seems to stretch for miles, while a thick grove of palm trees adds a backdrop of vibrant green. Boca de Iguanas is popular for beach camping, but it also has lovely bungalows and villas scattered along the sand and up in the hills.
For entertainment and activity, La Manzanilla is a quick drive at the other end of the bay. The village is busy compared to other towns in the region, but that’s not saying much. The best things to do in La Manzanilla are to post up at a beach bar or restaurant and spend the day enjoying the ocean. I love Bahia Azul for its plump, juicy shrimp and colorful ceviche. It’s simple, fresh, and has beautiful beach views.
Are there any of your best beaches in Costalegre that didn’t make the cut? Let us know in the comments.
Meagan Drillinger is a New York native who has spent the past 15 years traveling around and writing about Mexico. While she’s on the road for assignments most of the time, Puerto Vallarta is her home base. Follow her travels on Instagram at @drillinjourneys or through her blog at drillinjourneys.com.
