Tuesday, March 25, 2025

Lessons from the road: What I wish I’d known before driving the Baja peninsula

I’ve taken a lot of road trips in Mexico. But the one that continues to replay in my mind is the month-long trip I spent driving the entire Baja peninsula, from Cabo up to Ensenada and back again. Let me tell you — it was one of the most incredible road trips of my life. The rugged landscapes, untouched beaches and roadside taco stands made it an adventure I’ll never forget. But I’ll be honest: I went in completely blind. I had no idea what to expect or what to plan for.

If you’re planning to drive the Baja peninsula, here are a few things I wish I had known before setting out.

You don’t need a 4×4, but you’ll want one

A 4x4 in the Baja desert
A proper off-roader makes things so much easier. (Peek)

You can absolutely drive Baja without a 4×4. The main highways are paved and in decent condition, and you’ll still see some jaw-dropping scenery. But if you want to get off the beaten path — and trust me, part of the magic of Baja is in the remote, wild places — you’re going to need a 4×4. Some of the best spots, like hidden beaches or remote villages, require tackling washboard dirt roads, sandy paths, or rocky trails. If your dream is to land on a secluded beach with no one else in sight, you’ll want a vehicle that can handle the journey.

Sometimes the drive is a whole lot of nothing

Baja California desert
I hope you like looking at this, because it’s what lies in wait a lot of the time. (Wikimedia)

Baja’s landscape is raw, rugged and strikingly beautiful. But there are stretches of highway that feel endless. Specifically, the drives between San Ignacio and Guerrero Negro, and then Guerrero Negro up to Ensenada, are long, desolate and have little to no cell reception. The scenery is stunning — vast desert, cacti forests and wide-open sky — but after several hours of it, you’ll be grateful for a solid playlist. Download your music, because radio stations are nonexistent in these remote areas. Download the map, too — just in case you did rent that 4×4 and want to venture down a dirt road.

Always fill up with gas when you can

A Pemex gas station sign against a blue sky dotted with clouds
Never pass a gas station unless your tank is full. (Shutterstock)

I never actually ran out of gas, but I had a few panic-inducing moments where I wondered if I would make it to the next station. Gas stations are few and far between in Baja, so whenever you see one, just fill up. Even if you’re at half a tank. Better safe than sorry.

Real-time road conditions are hard to get

Facebook is your friend when it comes to finding out about unexpected surprises on the highway.(Cuartoscuro)

One of the biggest challenges I encountered was getting real-time information about road conditions. Baja is prone to hurricanes, flash floods and unexpected road closures, and finding up-to-date info isn’t easy. About halfway through my trip, I discovered the Baja Overlanding Facebook group, and it was a game-changer. The community shares posts about road conditions, gas availability and any hiccups along the way.

A perfect example: Hurricane Kay had sliced through the peninsula during my trip, destroying parts of the main highway. I ended up stuck in Ensenada for five days, waiting for updates on when the roads would be passable again. If I had known about the Facebook group earlier, I could have planned better and avoided some of that stress.

Take your time

Los Barriles
The view is incredible, so take your time to enjoy it! (La Paz)

If you’re thinking of doing Baja in a week, you’ll be missing out on so much. This is a road trip where the journey is just as important as the destination. Rushing through means skipping hidden beaches, local restaurants and spontaneous detours. I spent a month exploring Baja, and even that didn’t feel like enough time. If you can, plan for at least a couple of weeks.

Be prepared for military checkpoints

National Guard checkpoints on highways near the border are one tool the federal government uses to check incoming vehicles.
National Guard checkpoints on highways near the border are one tool the federal government uses to check incoming vehicles. (National Guard/X)

Throughout Baja, you’ll encounter military checkpoints, especially as you move between states. These are completely routine and nothing to worry about. Sometimes, they’ll wave you through. Other times, they might ask you to step out while they check your vehicle. Just stay calm, be polite and have your paperwork — license, car rental agreement and passport — readily available. It can feel a little unnerving the first time, but after a few, you’ll get used to it.

Bonus tip: Rent a car in San José del Cabo

Car lot
Rent your car in San Jose del Cabo, it’s a very straightforward process. (Jason Leung/Unsplash)

I rented my car in San Jose del Cabo from Cactus Car, and I’d highly recommend them. They include all the necessary insurance you need to drive in Mexico in the price, which means no hidden fees or surprises when you pick up your car. Rental car insurance in Mexico can be tricky, so it was nice to have everything covered upfront.

Driving the Baja peninsula was one of the most freeing and rewarding adventures I’ve ever taken. Sure, I went in blind and learned a few lessons the hard way, but that was part of the fun. If you’re thinking about making the trip, I can’t recommend it enough— just go in prepared. Fill up your tank, download your playlists, join a Baja road conditions group, and most importantly, take your time. The magic of Baja is in the journey, and trust me, it’s one you won’t forget.

Meagan Drillinger is a New York native who has spent the past 15 years traveling around and writing about Mexico. While she’s on the road for assignments most of the time, Puerto Vallarta is her home base. Follow her travels on Instagram at @drillinjourneys or through her blog at drillinjourneys.com

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