Borough: Benito Juárez
Established: 1908
Location: 6 km south of the Ángel de la Independencia
Who lives in Nápoles
Colonia Nápoles, in Mexico City’s Benito Juárez borough, is reeling from its recent years of revitalization and a growing interest from younger urbanites looking for fun-yet-affordable living areas. With an average resident age of 38, Nápoles attracts a diverse mix of professionals, creatives and entrepreneurs.
Speaking of creatives, renowned Colombian artist Fernando Botero briefly resided on Calle Kansas in 1956. During his stay, Botero — whose works can be found at the Museo Tamayo and Museo Soumaya — immersed himself in Mexico’s thriving art scene, using this time as a period of intense intellectual exploration and artistic development.
A brief history of Nápoles
With its establishment in 1908, Colonia Nápoles quickly defined itself as a key player in the ever-expanding metropolis that was Mexico City. The neighborhood emerged from Rancho de Amores and Rancho de Nápoles, former agricultural estates primed for urban development. English women Francisca Julia Willie and her business partner Enrique Marcial Beale worked together to bring to life their envisioned “model town” with large lots and accessible routes to Mexico City.
Pretty soon, California Colonial-style mansions started popping up and Nápoles was divided into two sections: the original and Ampliación Nápoles. Over time, Nápoles evolved from a residential area to a commercial hub, particularly along Avenida de los Insurgentes, with modern buildings replacing many of its original houses.
A guide to Nápoles today
Perhaps thanks to the World Trade Center complex, Nápoles offers a unique blend of international flair and local charm. This is evident most notably through its culinary scene, especially along Calle Nueva York, where you can sample bites ranging from Polish to French, Spanish to Indian, all within a few blocks.
The neighborhood strikes an agreeable balance between the trendiness of areas like Roma or Condesa and a more authentic local experience. Nápoles is characterized by a cosmopolitan vibe that showcases street vendors and upscale dining options on its streets named after U.S. states. The location is strategic and well-connected, making it an ideal base for exploring or living.
Nápoles is great if you love: A down-to-earth, non-curated neighborhood with a vibrance that could only exist in Mexico City.
What to do in Nápoles
Polyforum Siqueiros: A cultural landmark housing a giant mural, “La Marcha de la Humanidad,” this multifunctional space showcases humanity’s evolution through art. Check out a lineup of diverse cultural events including theater and exhibitions, in its unique circular auditorium.
Pepsi Center WTC: A versatile, state-of-the-art venue is capable of hosting a range of events, from lectures to concerts by the likes of Bob Dylan and Alejandro Sanchez. It boasts modern amenities, exceptional acoustics and a prime location within the World Trade Center complex.
WTC México: One of the city’s premier event spaces is known for large-scale gatherings that run the gamut of spirituality expos to pharmaceutical conventions. Ideal for networking or accidentally bumping into potential clients. Check out the CETRO Mirador on the 46th floor in Torre 1 for sweeping views of the city.
Plaza México: Despite ongoing legal battles, the world’s largest bullring has resumed activity in the center of Nápoles. Plaza México is an architectural marvel that hosts bullfights and various cultural events, including concerts, serving as a symbol of Mexican heritage and a unique attraction for visitors.
Alameda Nápoles (Parque Alfonso Esparza Oteo): Nápoles’ main park features a distinctive clock tower that has become a symbol of the neighborhood. Enjoy green spaces, a small open-air forum for live performances and recreational facilities.
Parque Hundido: Located in neighboring Extremadura Insurgentes, this expansive urban park is a favorite for families and teenage Mexican couples looking for a place to make out. There are plenty of unique attractions here that you won’t find in other city parks, including the hard-to-miss sculpture of an Olmec head and a recognizable clock made of flowers.
Things to eat in Nápoles
El Corazón del Mar: This popular seafood restaurant is known for a diverse menu and creative cocktails. The ambiance is relaxed and casual, with outdoor seating perfect for an outing with friends. Make sure to order the octopus or tacos al pastor.
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Hijos del Maíz: Mexico is all about celebrating corn, and that’s the premise of this modern Mexican eatery. The menu is abundant in tamales, tlayudas and breakfast dishes like chilaquiles. Don’t miss the interesting mix of cocktails available, including virgin options. Try their flautas ahogadas for an authentic taste of Mexican cuisine.
Vainila Bar: Head here when you’re in the mood for breakfast with an artistic flair. Vainila’s “Brunching and Painting” series is an all-inclusive event, where you can choose a ceramic piece to decorate while enjoying a filling breakfast and unlimited coffee, tea or soft drinks.
Mazurka: I loved knocking back chilled vodka in this surprisingly authentic Polish restaurant located inside a house with Polish-style furnishing. I can almost guarantee you’ll feel like a true aristocrat ordering from an endless menu boasting dozens of traditional dishes. The restaurant, a staple in Nápoles for over 40 years, is famous for its duck dishes and the “Pope’s menu” once served to Pope John Paul II.
Goy’s Plant-Based Burgers: It ain’t easy being vegan in a meat-loving country, which might be why this lively and friendly plant-based burger joint is always busy. Goy’s attracts both vegans and meat-eaters to its menu of house-made burger patties that rival traditional burgers. Try their “chicken” burger, which customers claim is indistinguishable from the real thing.
Dulce Madero: This quaint pet-friendly restaurant, cafe and deli focuses on a health-conscious yet very hearty menu. There’s a little bit of everything, so whether you’re in the mood for a superfood smoothie and eggs or a crisp white wine and charcuterie, you’ll find what you’re looking for here. Patrons love the rustic feel and cozy outdoor patio.
Debarbas Nueva York – Tapas Bar: Want the beach but can’t quite swing a getaway to the coast? Come to Nápoles’s gourmet bebedero (drinkery), which features a fusion of Mexican and Italian cuisines, with dishes like tuna tostadas in ginger vinaigrette and bean-stuffed plantain croquettes.
La Musa Coffee House: Vibey and hip with lots of character, La Musa draws locals in for more than just its good coffee. It’s the perfect spot for those seeking a trendy, local coffee experience with a side of creativity. Snack on lavender pound cake or an empanada with your coffee, or enjoy an afternoon mojito as a live musician strums his guitar.
One hidden gem
Far from hidden, any visitor to Nápoles should plan a visit to the Sunday tianguis. Considered one of the city’s best, spend the afternoon shopping a great variety of products that you can’t find at every tianguis: kitchen and home items, flea-market finds, fresh produce, prepared foods and everything in between.
Bethany Platanella is a travel planner and lifestyle writer based in Mexico City. She lives for the dopamine hit that comes directly after booking a plane ticket, exploring local markets, practicing yoga and munching on fresh tortillas. Sign up to receive her Sunday Love Letters to your inbox, peruse her blog or follow her on Instagram.
