For travelers on the Yucatán Peninsula looking to get off the beaten path, El Cuyo is a hidden gem perched on a narrow strip of sand between a marsh and the Gulf of Mexico.
This town in the peninsula’s northeast is a kiteboarding paradise, but it’s also a haven for those looking to unwind in world-class boutique accommodations and savor a culinary scene that highlights fresh, local flavors— all at surprisingly affordable prices.
Getting to El Cuyo
There are several ways to reach El Cuyo, including ADO bus routes from Cancún and Mérida — 3 and 4.5 hours, respectively — and driving. The journey is scenic, taking you through rolling pasturelands and along a winding road that sometimes forms a natural tunnel thanks to the overgrown roadside flora.
At one point on our drive from Mérida, we stopped to let our dog stretch, and a friendly horseman rode by. He greeted us and lingered for a relaxed chat, a genuine reflection of the rural charm and welcoming spirit of the peninsula.
Upon arrival, El Cuyo greets visitors with a laid-back charm, featuring sandy, rutted roads and cinder block homes. Like most Mexican towns, it has a zócalo, or central plaza or, but you’ll find little of the tourist-driven commercialism common in other destinations. What stands out is the constant onshore breeze ripping through the palms— a wind that some may find relentless but is the very force that draws kiteboarders to the beach, fueling the village’s burgeoning tourism industry.
Where to stay in El Cuyo
Our first night was spent at Casa Utopia, a delightful waterfront home and yoga retreat. This wooden building, built circa 1940, beautifully merges rustic charm with modern amenities. Owner Mario shared his journey of restoring the house from near ruin four years ago, sourcing materials from across Yucatán. The interior design by his wife Cristina added a nautical, homemade touch to this beach house, making it an ideal spot to watch the sunset while kiteboarders skip across the waves. A spacious upstairs terrace is thoughtfully designed for yoga retreats, while bikes, kayaks, and paddle boards are available for guests to explore both the land and sea.
The following night, we stayed at Downwind Deck, a boutique hotel thoughtfully designed with kiteboarders in mind. Owners Courtney and Eugene, both passionate kiteboarders, left behind their corporate careers in the United States to immerse themselves in El Cuyo’s world-class kiteboarding scene. Courtney’s background in corporate design shines through in every detail, from custom pillows to the carefully curated original art.
The lush garden also features inviting hangout areas, including hammocks, cornhole games and a fire pit, creating a perfect space to unwind after a day on the water. Every need of the kiteboarding guest is anticipated and accommodated, creating a luxurious experience for those who spend their days on the water and their nights on ultra-comfortable mattresses. Beyond the surfer-chic accommodations, Downwind Deck offers concierge services tailored to kiteboarders, including trips to chase the best wind conditions and excursions to cenotes or wildlife tours for windless days.
Dining in El Cuyo
On our first evening, we visited El Habanero, a beachside bar with a distinctly Cuban vibe. The sandy floor and relaxed atmosphere create an inviting space just steps from the main plaza and the town pier. The menu features Cuban cuisine, including delicious yucca fritters with aioli sauce and a signature Cuban sandwich served with fries for just 195 pesos. The cocktails are divine: don’t miss the authentic mojito paired with their selection of Cuban cigars. Live salsa and movie nights under the stars make this bar a cultural hub for visitors and locals alike.
Next, we dined at Piccola Italia, run by a Neapolitan brother-sister duo who have been serving traditional Italian dishes here for over four years. Everything is homemade, including their pastas. The bruschetta was fresh and bursting with flavor, and the gnocchi sorrentina was bright and perfectly seasoned. Watching the chef prepare meals in the open kitchen added to the experience. For dessert, we enjoyed homemade limoncello alongside a superb tiramisu that felt authentically European in presentation and taste. The ambiance is relaxed and family-oriented, with the owners’ dogs wandering between tables and neighbors stopping by to say hello.
Another culinary highlight was Zapote, where locally-sourced ingredients shine in every dish. Chef Alex and his partner Maria operate an open-air kitchen that emphasizes simple presentations without compromising flavor. We started with roasted pumpkin soup drizzled with olive and chili oil before moving on to plantain tostones topped with pork ribs and chipotle mayo. The standout dishes were the fish of the day — róbalo in our case — and the locally sourced roasted short ribs. This is fine dining-quality food in a relaxed beach setting with surprisingly affordable prices a can’t-miss during any trip to El Cuyo.
El Cuyo isn’t just a haven for kiteboarders. The town also has options for those seeking relaxation, with plenty of spas, massages and wellness treatments. This isn’t the destination for nightlife enthusiasts, as the town offers no clubs or late-night venues. During our stay, the streets fell silent by 11 p.m., save for the occasional bark of a dog, the distant crow of a rooster or the ever-present wind in the trees.
From its pristine beaches and consistent winds to its thoughtfully designed boutique accommodations and excellent dining options, the town offers a unique mix of adventure and tranquility. Most of all, El Cuyo remains authentic and welcoming, free from the mass-tourism development found in other coastal hotspots. It’s a place where you can truly disconnect and experience Yucatán at its most serene.
