Borough: Cuauhtémoc
Established: 1927
Location: 3 km southwest of the Angel de la Independencia
Who lives here
From the day of its inauguration, Condesa has been a hub for artists and cinema stars. Notable figures such as the famous composer Agustín Lara and flamenco dancer Pilar Rioja settled in Condesa. Mexico’s beloved comedian Mario Moreno, better known as Cantinflas, was so captivated by the neighborhood’s atmosphere he decided it was the right place to open an office.
When the 1985 earthquake hit Mexico City, parts of Condesa were all but destroyed, leading to an exodus of affluent residents. Even today, the mix of older structures make the colonia one of the most fragile in the city. Despite the risk, low rents attracted a new wave of students and artists and by the early 1990s, it had revived with fervor. It seemingly hasn’t lost its touch, as today it’s one of the most coveted neighborhoods in Mexico City. The current population spans all ages, though you’re likely to notice a bounty of 20- to 30-somethings and a disturbing amount of English.
A brief history of La Condesa
Condesa gets its name from María Magdalena Catalina Dávalos de Bracamontes y Orosco, a wealthy 18th-century aristocrat and the third Countess, or condesa, of Miravalle. Born in 1701, she married Pedro Antonio de Trebuesto y Alvarado at 18 and inherited significant wealth which included land and property.
Even though her husband died early on, the countess managed her estates meticulously and soon expanded her landholdings to comprise the area we now know as Condesa. Well-known in Mexico City, her personal hacienda came to be known locally as La Condesa. However, it wasn’t until the Porfirio Díaz era that the neighborhood truly flourished. In 1910, the Jockey Club de México built the famous Hipódromo de la Condesa racetrack, which ran along what is now Avenida Ámsterdam. When operations ceased in the early 1920s, Condesa transformed into what we see today: a residential neighborhood characterized by parks, tree-lined avenues, boutique cafes and Art Deco architecture.
A guide to La Condesa today
La Condesa is one of the most vibrant and culturally rich neighborhoods in Mexico City. It’s more than just a haven for expats – young professionals, artists and entrepreneurs love the laid-back atmosphere and whimsical look. Tourists flock by the hundreds for a coffee at Quentin and a stroll around the lush Avenida Ámsterdam.
The Condesa area is divided into three sections: Colonia Condesa to the north, notably home to Parque España; Hipódromo to the southeast, the largest zone known for Avenida Amsterdam and Parque México; and Hipódromo Condesa, a mostly-residential nook to the southwest.
These three zones are hugged by Avenida Insurgentes, Avenida Veracruz and Circuito Interior. La Condesa is encased by La Juárez, Roma Norte, Escandón and San Miguel Chapultepec. Its shining centerpiece is Parque México, where you can accomplish almost any goal that involves walking your dog, buying fresh flowers or taking zumba classes. Surrounding the park are various dining establishments, as well as bakeries, tea houses and trendy hotels. Quieter, more residential streets spiderweb out from the park, home to everything from humans to art galleries to laundromats.
La Condesa is great if you love: A wide variety of international restaurants where you’re just as likely to receive an English-language menu as you are to see no less than 12 dog breeds dining alongside you. It’s also a great spot for art and architecture enthusiasts, and is sure to make your Instagram feed more popular than the rest of your friends’, if only for a day.
What to do in La Condesa
Avenida Amsterdam: This oval-shaped avenue is the heart of Condesa, lined with beautiful Art Deco architecture and a lovely pedestrian walkway.
Parque México: Perhaps the only sprawling urban park in Mexico City where you can meditate in a floating chair, take a boxing lesson and ponder the life of a swan by the lake.
Parque España: Parque México’s smaller sibling, equally lovely with an abundance of trees, fountains and murals.
Tuesday tianguis: Meander blocks and blocks of local fruits, veggies, flowers, meat, cheese and honey. Finish it all off with some freshly-made tacos at any of the tented stands. The market starts at Calle Pachuca and Avenida Veracruz.
Proyecto Paralelo: A cool contemporary art gallery that showcases established and emerging artists from all over the world.
La Clandestina: When in Mexico, one must drink mezcal. And that mezcal inevitably tastes better in a mezcalería, and even better when it’s in the sexy and sultry La Clandestina, 15 years strong.
Baltra Bar: Prefer a fancy cocktail? This regular on the World’s 50 Best Bars list is your spot, and its vintage-style furniture and award-winning mixologists make it a no-brainer.
Foro Shakespeare: Head to this quirky cultural venue to catch a variety of performances, including theater, live music and stand up.
Antonia Librería: A charming bookshop that often hosts author readings and creative workshops and carries a variety of Spanish and English-language books.
Proyecto Rufina: Go shopping, duh. The contemporary clothing brand emphasizes traditional Mexican textile craftsmanship. Its unique products are made of natural fibers and pieces are limited in production to reduce waste.
Where to eat in La Condesa
Tacos Hola El Güero: This beloved, no frills taquería attracts absolutely everyone, regardless of background, for its generous portions, meat and veggie fillings and delicious salsas. Try the chicken tinga tacos, eaten standing up.
Lardo: There will be a wait because it’s on every trendy must-do list, but Lardo will always be a solid spot for brunch. The menu focuses on seasonal ingredients and artisanal cooking techniques blending Mediterranean with Mexico.
Merkavá de Daniel Ovadia: One of the most popular haunts in La Condesa, this cozy Israeli hotspot is sought after for its creamy hummus, served with freshly baked pita.
Cafe Orquídea: You won’t even know their cookies and pastries are gluten-free and sugar free by the taste, and the leafy location on Avenida Amsterdam makes a stop in this charming cafe that much more magical.
Restaurante Botánico: Sipping on a pricey Aperol spritz is better when you’re sitting in a literal garden. A great spot for brunch or lunch for those chasing Soho House vibes without the membership.
Ceviche Bichi: Plastic tablecloths, tons of salsas and a cheerful, casual atmosphere makes this adorable ceviche establishment a must for any seafood lover.
One hidden gem
Diente de Oro claims to have the largest collection of whiskeys in the city. What it definitely has is an eclectic collection of patrons. For a truly local, down-to-earth experience, knock back a shot or two of your favorite spirit while people-watching the night away at this small but well-loved bar.
Bethany Platanella is a travel planner and lifestyle writer based in Mexico City. She lives for the dopamine hit that comes directly after booking a plane ticket, exploring local markets, practicing yoga and munching on fresh tortillas. Sign up to receive her Sunday Love Letters to your inbox, peruse her blog, or follow her on Instagram.
