Welcome to part 2 of our Ultimate Guide to the districts of Mexico City. The wonderful world of Mexico’s capital, affectionately known as “CDMX,” can sometimes be as vast and confusing as the urban sprawl itself.
So to help you plan your next visit, here are the remaining nine regions of the city. If you missed the first installment of this guide, you can read Part 1 here.
Disclaimer: If you plan to visit as many alcadías as possible, please do your due diligence before going! While I’ve included colonias to stay away from, it is not an inclusive list. Areas like Iztapalapa, Xochimilco, Tlalpan, and parts of Cuauhtémoc are not safe and should be avoided, especially at night. We recommended taking a guided tour where possible.
In addition, the number of colonias per alcadía is often disputed. I included the number most repeated in my research.
Iztacalco
The smallest borough in CDMX, Iztacalco’s name has been alternately translated as “where salt is produced” and “place of the white houses”. Once an island settlement in Lake Texcoco whose inhabitants helped develop the chinampa system of agriculture now associated with Xochimilco, Iztacalco turned into a hacienda hotspot after the Spanish conquest. It continued as an agricultural center until Mexico City’s expansion overtook the town, converting Iztacalco into a hub of cardboard and furniture manufacturers, as well as canneries and chemical plants.
How many colonias are there in Iztacalco? 27 colonias, 9 barrios
What’s the population of Iztacalco? 404,695 as of 2020
What are three things to see in Iztacalco? Visit the 16th-century Church of San Matías Apóstol, have lunch at the Iztacalco Market and stroll through the San José cemetery.
Colonias to avoid: La Agrícola Oriental, Ramos Millán
Iztapalapa
It might not be the biggest in size, but boy does Iztapalapa pack a populational punch. More people live in this borough than do in Manhattan, and while it may be nearly triple the square mileage, there are no high-rise accommodations to speak of. Its Nahuatl name can be translated into no less than four different meanings, the most common being “over the salty plain”. Iztapalapa is the birthplace of Cuitláhuac, penultimate king of Tenochtitlan; boxing champion Lupita Bautista; and the world famous Ángeles Azules band. The borough is also known for its elaborate Passion Play, one of the oldest and largest in Latin America.
Please note however, that the borough is generally not safe for tourists, and it is unwise to visit unless part of an organized tour.
How many colonias are there in Iztapalapa? 38 colonias
What’s the population of Iztapalapa? 1,835,486 as of 2020
What are three things to see in Iztapalapa? Visit the Cuitláhuac monument in the Iztapalapa Macroplaza, wander the gardens at Cerro de la Estrella National Park and ride the Cablebús with a tour led by Warrior Adventures.
Colonias to avoid: Quetzalcóatl
La Magdalena Contreras
The original inhabitants of this ancient region were Toltecs from Cuicuilco. Then came the Otomi and subsequently the Tepanecs, until they were conquered by the Mexica. The area was then called Atlitic, “the place where rock drinks water,” probably in reference to its many springs and rivers. Its land was fertile, perfect for growing fresh fruit and other staple produce. Eventually its name was changed to honor Saint María Magdalena and today is frequented by hikers and those looking for a breath of fresh air.
How many colonias are there in La Magdalena Contreras? 34 colonias, 5 pueblos, 2 barrios
What’s the population of La Magdalena Contreras? 247,622 as of 2020
What are three things to see in La Magdalena Contreras? Visit Ariosto Otero’s murals, check out the Contreras Cultural Forum and go for an epic hike in Los Dinamos National Park.
Miguel Hidalgo
It’s no surprise that one of the safest boroughs is also one of the wealthiest. Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla, its namesake, was a leader in the fight for independence from Spain. It’s here that you’ll find the luxe, leafy enclaves of Polanco, Lomas de Chapultepec and Bosques de las Lomas, once a hideaway for Spanish nobility and now the stomping grounds of many upper class Mexican families.
How many colonias are there in Miguel Hidalgo? 90 colonias
What’s the population of Miguel Hidalgo? 414,470 as of 2020
What are three things to see in Miguel Hidalgo? Browse high-end shops on Avenida Masaryk, visit Carlos Slim’s Museo Soumaya and the neighboring Museo Jumex and bike through leafy Chapultepec Park.
Milpa Alta
The city’s second-largest but least densely populated borough is named for the cultivation system found throughout Mesoamerica, and the name is appropriate: Milpa Alta provides the vast majority of the nopal eaten in Mexico and much of the produce you’ll find in CDMX. Of its 12 Pueblos Originarios, 10 produce over 300,000 tons of nopal every year. Despite being Mexico City’s poorest borough, Milpa Alta hosts an array of colorful festivals, including a balloon festival over Day of the Dead in San Agustín Ohtenco, a Chinelo festival the third Sunday of October and an ice cream festival in San Antonio Tecomitl.
How many colonias are there in Milpa Alta? 12 colonias
What’s the population of Milpa Alta? 152,685 as of 2020
What are three things to see in Milpa Alta? Visit the Centro de Acopio y Comercialización Nopal Verdura, the borough’s main market; eat a homemade mole lunch; and take a short hike up the inactive Teuhtli volcano for sweeping views of the cactus fields.
Tláhuac
Sitting alongside Xochimilco and Milpa Alta is Tláhuac, whose name means “the lord of the water sings”. During the time of Benito Juárez, it was incorporated into Xochimilco, separated again by Porfirio Díaz. Inhabitants cultivate much of the city’s leafy greens, beans, tomatoes and squash.
How many colonias are there in Tláhuac? 93 colonias
What’s the population of Tláhuac? 392,313 as of 2020
What are three things to see in Tláhuac? Spend a day paddling on Reyes Aztecas Lake, visit the church and cemetery in San Andrés Mixquic and birdwatch at the Xico canals
Tlalpan
In English, Tlalpan’s name can be loosely translated as “the mainland,” harking back to the days when it formed part of the southern shore of Lake Texcoco. It’s the biggest borough in terms of territory and its beautiful views attracted writers, poets and elite members of society during the Porfiriato era. Even today it’s largely rural, with hectares upon hectares of parks for biking, hiking and picnicking.
How many colonias are there in Tlalpan? 93 colonias
What’s the population of Tlalpan? 699,928 as of 2020
What are three things to see in Tlalpan? Take a spin through the colonial historic center of the village that gives Tlalpan its name, ride a bike around the massive Bosque de Tlalpan National Park and hit the rollercoasters at Six Flags.
Venustiano Carranza
There’s a good chance you’ve been to Venustiano Carranza at least once — Mexico City’s Benito Juárez International Airport is located here. Created in 1970 as Centro Oriente, the borough was rebranded in 1976 in honor of the Revolutionary-era military leader and president whose term ended with his assassination in 1920. It’s largely an industrial, commercial and residential zone, yet sprinkled with nuggets of Mexican history. The infamous Lecumberri prison, today home to the National Archive (AGN), served as a film set in Pedro Infante’s “Nosotros los Pobres.” Even more notable is the Sonora Market, known for its vending of witchy potions and lotions.
How many colonias are there in Venustiano Carranza? 70 colonias
What’s the population of Venustiano Carranza? 443,704 as of 2020
What are three things to see in Venustiano Carranza? Dive into Mexico’s history at the Archivo General de la Nación; shop at La Merced, one of Latin America’s largest markets; and relax in the thermal baths at Peñon de los Baños.
Xochimilco
The zone’s name means “field of flowers,” and for good reason: its watery landscape has lent itself to plant production for centuries. Xochimilco provided the Valley of Mexico with flora long before the Spanish arrived and continues to do so today. In 1987, Xochimilco was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was, and still is, one of the pillars of Mexico City’s foundation, yet sadly remains one of the capital’s poorest and most neglected boroughs.
How many colonias are there in Xochimilco? 14 pueblos, 17 barrios
What’s the population of Xochimilco? 442,178 as of 2020
What are three things to see in Xochimilco? Catch the sunrise on a trajinera tour, fill up on flowers at the Madreselva flower market and get creeped out at the Island of the Dolls.
Bethany Platanella is a travel planner and lifestyle writer based in Mexico City. She lives for the dopamine hit that comes directly after booking a plane ticket, exploring local markets, practicing yoga and munching on fresh tortillas. Sign up to receive her Sunday Love Letters to your inbox, peruse her blog, or follow her on Instagram.
