Thursday, August 21, 2025

Oaxaca artisans accuse U.S. brands of stealing traditional designs

A group of 300 Oaxaca artisans have accused U.S. fashion brands J. Marie Collections and Tuckernuck of cultural appropriation for using traditional huipil patterns in their clothes, prompting Mexico’s Culture Ministry to threaten legal action against the brands.

A huipil is a loose-fitting tunic or blouse with detailed and colorful embroidery, worn by Indigenous women in parts of Mexico and Central America.

A traditional and a plagiarized huipil
The artisans accused the brands of copying proprietary Mixtec designs. (Claudia Curiel de Icaza/X)

Under the slogan “Yes to the original, no to plagiarism,” artisans and residents of the Mixtec community of San Juan Colorado, in the western part of Oaxaca, claim that they have not authorized these brands to use traditional iconography.

“[The brands] are making these brocades by machine and do not recognize that they are the brocades of the original huipiles from San Juan Colorado,” Wiliam Ulises Lorenzo López, artisan and designer from San Juan Colorado, said in a statement.

Local Deputy Karla Clarissa Bornios has joined the demands and called for these actions to end.

“These companies have plagiarized the iconography of the traditional huipiles of our community, violating our collective rights and undermining our cultural identity,” Bornios said in a statement. “Such practices are unacceptable and will not be tolerated. No more cultural appropriation!”

Amusgo weavers in Guerrero use a backstrap loom to weave traditional textiles, similar to the Oaxaca designs that U.S. brands are accused of taking via cultural appropriation
Like these Guerrero weavers, the Oaxacan artisans use backstrap looms to weave traditional huipiles and other textiles, using symbolism-rich designs. (Dassaev Téllez Adame/Cuartoscuro)

The Mixtec, also known as Ñuu Savi which means “rain town,” is an Indigenous group that occupies a large part of Oaxaca, and smaller areas of Guerrero and Puebla. Their textile work involves the telar de cintura (backstrap loom), a tool used by Mesoamerican women to make clothes.

Artisans argue that each embroidered garment is unique and unrepeatable, requiring precise skills to create complex patterns and designs that often carry cultural and symbolic meaning.

In support of the community of San Juan Colorado, Mexico’s Minster of Culture Claudia Curiel de Icaza, said that “the misappropriation of iconographies, design and simulation of techniques of a community is a crime and violates collective rights.”

Curiel added that Mexico would take legal action and urged the brands to initiate compensation dialogue and withdraw the items from the market.

Accusations of cultural appropriation

Accusations of cultural appropriation of Mexican designs and motifs by fashion brands is an issue that took international visibility in late 2020 after Mexican singer and politician Susana Harp called out French designer Isabel Marant for selling clothes with similar designs to those created by the village of Santa María Tlahuitoltepec in Oaxaca.

The following year, Mexico had accused Zara and Anthropologie for using patterns distinctive to the Indigenous Mixteca community. It also accused Australian clothing brand Zimmermann of plagiarizing the Mazatec community for its resort 2021 collection.

Zimmermann claimed the error had been unintentional but apologized “for the usage without appropriate credit.” The brand also withdrew the item from sale.

In 2022, the Mexican Congress passed a law to safeguard the cultural heritage of Indigenous and Afro-Mexican communities in Mexico. The law prohibits the use and exploitation of their heritage without legal consent of the original communities.

With reports from Excélsior and El Universal

8 COMMENTS

Have something to say? Paid Subscribers get all access to make & read comments.
newspapers hanging up at a stand

Blood, guts, sex and scandal: The history behind Mexico’s infamous ‘nota roja’ tabloids

0
La nota roja has a rich history in Mexico dating back more than 135 years, with numerous publications — both newspapers and magazines — focusing on violent crime, accidents and other gory events.
A scenic overlook of the historic cityscape of Oaxaca city, Mexico. The city is seen nestled in a valley surrounded by hazy mountains.

Find authentic culture in these Oaxaca city bookstores

0
Avid reader Diego Levin suggests a novel way to explore Oaxaca city — by visiting its most interesting and well-stocked bookstores. Here are his favorites.
Juan Rulfo in front of a page of his book

Made in Mexico: Juan Rulfo

4
Juan Rulfo may not have had a long career in Mexican literature, but the three novels he produced shape the country today.
BETA Version - Powered by Perplexity