After being closed since October due to cartel violence in the region, the Yaxchilán Archaeological Zone in the southern state of Chiapas reopened this week for tourism.
Local tour guide Silvano López Gómez called it “five months of paralyzing tourist activity,” but said now there is “a great opportunity to visit, learn about, enjoy and contribute to the conservation of the Lacandon Jungle.”
Located near Mexico’s border with Guatemala, Yaxchilán and other archaeological sites in the border region had been cited as risky places to visit by Diego Prieto, director of the National Institute of Anthropology and History (INAH).
“At INAH, we suggest that you don’t go … so you don’t have an unfortunate experience,” Prieto said in Janurary.
In turn, at least three travel agencies from Europe stopped including visits to the Lacandón Jungle — home to several important Maya ruins — on their travel itineraries. Cancellations poured in, refunds had to be issued and tourism in Chiapas came to a virtual standstill.
The reason why: The Jalisco New Generation Cartel (CJNG), the Sinaloa Cartel and local affiliates of those criminal organizations have been engaged in a turf war in the area for over three years. At stake are routes along which narcotics, weapons and migrants are transported north from Guatemala.
Esquivel Cruz González, commissioner for peace in the border community of Frontera Corozal, was excited about the reopening of Yaxchilán, noting that dozens of families that make a living from tourism have been hurting.
“This will give the region an economic respite,” he said, also noting that security protocols have been deployed to guarantee safe visits.
Cruz said Yaxchilán and the Bonampak Archaeological Zone were closed not only due to cartel violence, but also because locals deemed it necessary to arm themselves in response. The sites were closed “in order to contain and control the actions that were against the town.”
The decision to reopen came during a communal assembly on March 9. In turn, the ecotourism agencies Nueva Alianza and Escudo Jaguar also reopened.
This week, boats with tourists began leaving Frontera Corozal to ply the Usumacinta River and enter Yaxchilán by water. That’s how most tourists reach it; the other way is by flying in on a light aircraft and using a landing strip.
“We are going to rise back up, little by little, but every beginning is difficult,” said María Jiménez, a receptionist at Yaxchilán and a member of the Ch’ol people, who are Indigenous to the region and number about 9,000.
Aurelio Álvaro Jiménez, secretary of the Yaxkin Lacandonia society, said tourists should have no fears. “At the Corozal border, at this time, it is the best place in terms of security, because we have community guards, both at the entrance of the town and on the border with Guatemala,” he assured.
“We have a firm commitment to be able to rise to the occasion,” added Cruz González.
With reports from Proceso and El Financiero
Hoping the situation improves, it’s an important and special place. I feel fortunate to have visited in 2014, ten years ago.
For those of us that follow the mining business the cartel insecurity is only beginning. Higher copper, gold and silver prices will have them stealing the shipments.
I first went to Yaxchilan in 1996 – 28 years ago. We literally had a guide with a machete cutting a path in the jungle to get us to the ruins. An amazing place straight out of an Indiana Jones movie. Hopefully things get settled soon in this magical place.
Really? When I went there 30 years ago, we arrive via boat from Frontera Corozal and walked into the site by ourselves without a guide.
Right now, I wouldn’t go if you gave me a free trip! As long as there is any possibility of the presence of any of los carteles, you’ve got to be crazy to want to visit. It’s just so very sad it has come to this. Even the cartel member must feel something for their country. However, once they are onboard, there most likely is no way out. I believe that eventually things will turn around because it just can’t get any worse. !Viva Mexico!
I was lucky to visit both Bonampak and Yaxchilán in the 80s, driving first by van from Palenque to the Usamacinta River and then traveling to the ruins in a canoe without life jackets. (What was I doing?) Many of the stelae were on their sides – faces buried in the mud. Virtually nothing was excavated and that made the visit very, very special. I think there was one resident guard. I am so sad to see the local tourism economy stopped in its tracks by illegal gangs.