Bacalar, Quintana Roo, is one of my favorite places in Mexico. It’s gorgeous. So, I usually pop down every year or two and get an apartment on the famous Lake Bacalar to just put my feet up and chill, enjoying huge cold mangoes with a mimosa after a sunrise swim.
Visiting again a couple of months ago, every meal I had in Bacalar’s restaurants were outstanding. I’ve always enjoyed the restaurants here, but this time I was seriously impressed, from delicious gourmet tlacoyos for breakfast to the best empanadas of my life for dinner. I’m still dreaming about the mint chip ice cream, the creamiest and most delicious I’ve had anywhere.
The food was good before, but it wasn’t like this. What’s changed?
An upgraded culinary scene
There’s no denying Bacalar has grown quite a lot over the last few years. Prices have gone up accordingly, and new restaurants have opened, so there’s more competition. Both local and international talented chefs — some classically trained, others trained in Michelin-star kitchens — are now calling Bacalar home.
So, is it any wonder we noticed the culinary scene has upgraded substantially? But the best thing is that the prices are still affordable. Colleen, the friend who accompanied me, was visiting from Vermont, in the United States, and remarked that our meals were was half the price of what she’d expect to pay at home.
Bacalar is still affordable. Unlike some of the bigger and more touristy areas in the Riviera Maya where they’re getting close to U.S. prices, Bacalar is delivering excellent food for a good price.
What’s on the menu?
In Bacalar, you’ll find the best flavors Mexico has to offer. From traditional pre-Columbian ingredients to fresh seafood, it seems everything is on offer.
There’s a Japanese sushi bar. Vegan restaurants that even carnivores love. Plus a couple of hotels, Boca de Agua and Casa Hormiga have been recognized with a Michelin Key from the Michelin Guide. So now you can see why we were impressed on our visit. Things have leveled up since my last visit.
But don’t worry; there’s still the fresh seafood shacks on the lake. And the local taco stands and places where locals meet for a beer. That’s the great thing. There’s something for everyone at Bacalar, and every budget. You don’t have to spend a fortune for a great meal.
Finding the right location
I’m a sucker for a view, so we headed along the waterfront for a great meal on our last night. We wanted a nice place to relax, enjoy a meal and have a glass of wine or two facing the magical blue waters of Lake Bacalar.
The lake is also called the Lagoon of Seven Colors, or the Maldives of Mexico, for a reason. There are seven shades of blue, from the sky blues and shining turquoise of the shallower water to the vibrant cobalt and azure of slightly deeper water through to the rich deep sapphire showing the depths of the Blue Cenote near shore. It’s a feast for your eyes.
Waterfront dining was a must. Dawdling along, we came to La Playita, one of Bacalar’s most popular restaurants, for good reason. I just love a place with hammocks that you can relax in after dinner while listening to music.
Dinner on Lake Bacalar: A meal with a view
The only thing Colleen wanted when she got off the plane was ceviche. It was one of the first things she said to me: “I don’t care where we eat but I want good ceviche on this trip.”
My friend got her ceviche, and I’m pretty sure she’s still smiling. Freshly caught fish, octopus and shrimp made up the dish, and she was one happy lady. That was followed by the catch of the day, mahi mahi. It was a sensational seafood dinner with amazing view.
I’ve been a vegetarian for over a decade, and I was delighted with La Playita’s veggie options.
For starters, cheese and spinach empanadas. I’ve enjoyed empanadas here in Mexico, in Guatemala, Belize, Nicaragua and Honduras. So you can believe me when I say they’re the best I’ve ever had.
As a main, it was hard to go past the buffalo cauliflower bites. These delicious, melt-in-your-mouth morsels were crumbed, fried and served with two dipping sauces. They were so good that my friend stopped her seafood smorgasbord to dive in as well. We both agreed that they were amazing.
The takeaway on Bacalar restaurants
No matter your budget, food philosophy, dining preference or restrictions, there is amazing food waiting for you in Bacalar. On many a menu, there were gluten-free, dairy-free vegetarian and vegan restaurants. And, as I said earlier, the best mint chip ice cream I’ve ever had was at Heladería Annie Delicias on the central square.
Bel Woodhouse, Mexico Correspondent for International Living, is an experienced writer, author, photographer and videographer with more than 500 articles published both in print and across digital platforms. Having lived in the Mexican Caribbean for over seven years now, she’s in love with Mexico and has no plans to go anywhere anytime soon.
