Sunday, April 20, 2025

Taste of Mexico: Oaxacan Omikase

Salvador Dalí famously claimed that he didn’t care for Mexico because it was just too surreal — a sentiment that might make you think twice when you step into Oaxaca, the most vibrant and surreal state in the entire country! Here, the air is thick with the echoes of pre-Hispanic traditions, alive in the bustling streets, the faces of the locals, and the language that sings through the markets. But the crown jewel of Oaxaca’s capital? The magnificent Santo Domingo — a colossal church shimmering with gold that leaves visitors in awe.

Now, let’s talk about the spectacular Oaxacan cuisine! Picture this: smoky, spicy, herbal flavors wafting through the markets where the aroma of fresh meat mingles with fragrant herbs. Corn is the heartbeat of Oaxacan dishes, and you’ll find it artfully paired with ingredients like insects, honey, and chocolate — a culinary journey honed over thousands of years in the vibrant homes and streets of Oaxaca. 

The Templo de Santo Domingo
The Templo de Santo Domingo towers over the city of Oaxaca. (Vive Oaxaca)

But wait, there’s more! In a land rich with tradition, innovation is seen as a bold act of rebellion. Oaxacans channel their creativity across food, art, literature, and, notably, gastronomy. One culinary pioneer, Ricardo Arellano, takes center stage today with his revolutionary creations.

Japan meets Oaxaca

Imagine craving sushi in Oaxaca — sounds bizarre, doesn’t it? I would’ve never considered melding sushi with mole! But Ricardo, with unparalleled ingenuity, understands the essence of traditional Oaxacan flavors and seamlessly honors the beauty of Japanese culinary techniques. 

Crudo

Nestled in downtown Oaxaca, waiting to be discovered, is Crudo — an unassuming gem hidden behind a typical colonial facade. Walk through the doors, and you’re greeted by a fusuma — a traditional Japanese sliding door — ushering you into an intimate dining experience like no other. This isn’t just a meal; it’s a thrilling fusion of Japanese and Oaxacan cultures, revealing surprising similarities in their deep respect for nature and artisan craftsmanship passed through generations.

Inside Crudo, the menu is a carefully curated selection of 15 exquisite items. You can indulge in the Omakase or opt for the CRU.CRÚ bar menu, featuring four customizable dishes and a dessert. Each plate is a masterful encounter, merging Japanese techniques with Oaxacan ingredients in a tantalizing dance of flavors.

Oaxacan Omakase

 

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Prepare yourself for the Omakase experience—a stunning series of nine courses! Among them, three creations stood out, each a spectacular symphony of taste and technique.

First, the tuna hamachi dazzled with layers of xoconostle and heirloom tomato between succulent slices of tuna, paired with a spicy, mole-like paste. The sweet tang of the xoconostle, the richness of the mole, and the bright pop of tomato unite perfectly, creating a harmonious flavor explosion.

Next up, the elote nigir is pure street food alchemy! A tender morsel of corn atop a rice ball, topped with a creamy insect-infused mayonnaise and dusted with insect powder. It’s rich, unique, and utterly unforgettable!

And then there’s the eel taco with maguey worm. Instead of tortillas, imagine a delicate seaweed wrap filled with luscious grilled eel, seasoned rice, and crunchy cooked agave that brings the flavor of a tiny worm. To wash it down, a smooth shot of mezcal awaits to elevate this delectable experience!

Unique Experiences

Each Omakase adventure is uniquely tailored to the season’s freshest ingredients, promising a different experience every time! 

 

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If you’re seeking suggestions, don’t miss out on the allure of Oaxaca! Kickstart your day with a vibrant breakfast in the lively market, savor mouthwatering mole at any local restaurant, and treat yourself to a night at Chef Ricardo’s Crudo. Here, you’ll discover the heartbeat of Oaxaca: friendly locals, extraordinary food, and a vibe that’s simply magical. You’ll feel the roots of a rich culture bursting with life — steeped in mysticism, historical weight, and an artistic spirit that fuels the creativity of artists like Rufino Tamayo and Francisco Toledo.

So, are you daring enough to dive into the Oaxacan Omakase experience? You won’t want to miss it!

María Meléndez is a Mexico City food blogger and influencer.

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