When I first came to San Miguel de Allende in 2013, most immigrants were retired Americans; a decade on, the city is home to many young families with children, as well as more European immigrants. As a result, the vibe of the city and its lifestyle have changed.
What stands out most in San Miguel is people’s hospitality and friendliness, even towards children. I love how welcome my kids are in many restaurants and public spaces. A lot of people are happy to see them and show their joy and affection openly. I certainly can’t say the same about my home city of Hamburg in Germany.
In Germany, people are noticeably different in the summertime: we’re more relaxed and take time for the finer things in life. In Mexico, that approach is present all year long. Firstly, because the weather makes it possible, but also because people infect each other with their joie de vivre. There is always something to celebrate and rarely a really good excuse not to take part. You get invited to all the birthdays of even the most distant relatives and the celebrations usually go on for several days.
Parents are also welcome at children’s birthdays, where beer and wine are served next to soft drinks. You are in the right place in Mexico if you like to celebrate. Even if it’s “just” a meal with friends, there’s tequila as an aperitif, and the bottle rarely makes it through the night. Of course, alcohol is not a must. You can enjoy life late at night with tacos from a stall on the street corner just as much as with a delicious drink at an expensive rooftop bar. Barbecues are held as early as January and garden parties take place all year round.
However, that doesn’t mean that people are lazy. On the contrary, I have met so many highly motivated, hard-working people who are dedicated precisely because they enjoy their time off. Working hours are productive and efficient. They usually start after a morning workout and are interrupted by a meal with the family. I like this central role that the family plays and am convinced that a large part of the quality of life depends on it. My life as a mother of three is also greatly enhanced by the fact that we can afford a housekeeper here in Mexico. She gives me the freedom to take my children to the playground in the afternoon after work instead of having to do the household chores. I am grateful for the valuable time I get with them.
Of course, not everything is great. As a German, the poor condition of the roads and the chaotic traffic bother me. The main thing I miss about San Miguel de Allende is the freedom of being able to reach everything on foot. I never needed a car in Hamburg. I could reach all my destinations either on foot or by bike. If necessary, by bus and train.
Here in San Miguel, I am totally dependent on my car. Especially with children, I would welcome the opportunity to simply walk out the front door and go to a park or a playground. However, apart from the fact that most things are too far away, there are no decent footpaths. I can walk on the streets on my own, although of course that’s not entirely safe, but with a baby carriage it’s an odyssey. If you want to ride a bike or go for a walk, you first have to drive to a suitable place, just like in the United States. It’s very different in Germany. Once you’re there, however, it’s beautiful.
Something that has changed in the last couple of years, is the very welcome presence of good coffee shops. Though it might be intuitive to think that Mexico, a coffee producing country, should be full of amazing cafes serving delicious brews, that’s not often the case; it’s true that Mexican coffee beans are exceptional, but they’re mostly grown for export. Luckily, the global trend of meeting and working in coffee shops has arrived in San Miguel too. Nowadays you can find aromatic lattes and intense flat whites in many corners of the city.
Wherever I’ve lived, I’ve always missed German bread. True to form, I was quite disappointed by the bread in San Miguel, and turned to local tortillas instead. I am absolutely in love with the exceptional quality of panaderías popping up everywhere in town. Sourdough helped make people eat bread again, even though real Mexicans still leave out the migajas.
Last but not least, Germans are huge fans of sitting outside, and San Miguel’s spectacular rooftop terraces, paired with the ideal climate of this stunning city in the heart of Mexico, are probably the biggest reason to settle down here — with or without kids.
Sarah Pankow was born in Hamburg, Germany and settled down in San Miguel de Allende with her family after having lived in 7 different countries all over the globe. She writes, translates and teaches German and literary translation.
