In the town of Zihuatanejo, Dia de Muertos (Day of the Dead) and Halloween have collided. It is one of the most important times of the year for celebrating family and loved ones who have passed on, but it has taken on a new angle as cross-border traditions have mixed together. Time-honoured traditions include cleaning and visiting the gravesites, candlelight vigils and sharing meals, usually the favourite dishes of the person who passed. Pan de Muerto is divided, and music plays a large part in the celebrations throughout the candlelit evening.
In addition to holding onto traditional celebrations, they have expanded and, at times, appear more commercial than I have witnessed over the past 30 years, living at least part-time in Ixtapa-Zihuatanejo. What used to be more about honouring the dead while visiting the graves of loved ones has now included three and four day celebrations, which, although originated in tradition, have become elaborate events. Don’t get me wrong, the gravesite gatherings are certainly prevalent and mostly away from foreign visitors’ eyes, but Dia de Muertos has become more full-blown over the years and the lines between Halloween and the traditional Mexican ceremonies of remembrance have become blurred.
I have noticed the prevalence of huge numbers of trick-or-treaters that swarm what was once a small village in Zihuatanejo. Seeing these adorable children dressed as little goblins, ghosts, SpongeBobs, and last year’s most popular character, Wednesday Addams, has become the highlight of the year for my friends and me. We park ourselves outside the Barracuda Bar and hand out goodies and take photos — which everyone happily poses for.
The festivities begin with the unveiling of a giant Catrina on October 31 at 6:30 pm at a major landmark in Zihuatanejo known as Plaza Kioto, named after one of Zihuantanejo’s sister cities, Kyoto in Japan.
A short while later, everyone moves to the Cancha Municipal, the location of all of Zihuantanejo’s most memorable activities, located downtown on the shores of Zihuatanejo Bay. Here, they can enjoy an exhibition and taste traditional pan de muerto and other tasty treats from local bakeries and Restaurante Carnivac. Following is a lighted parade of boats in the bay of Zihuatanejo known as the Desfile de la Lanchas Illuminadas.
On November 1, starting at 7:00 pm, there will be a host of activities and celebrations in Zihuatanejo and nearby Ixtapa. In Colonia la Madera, a popular area not far from Centro Zihuatanejo and famous for its many restaurants and boutique hotels, you can dine and dance in the streets a mere few steps from Playa Madera.
In Ixtapa, 5 kilometers away, the fun continues with the “Pasarela de Textile — Catrinas de mi tierra” fashion show, which is held in the Commercial Zone of the resort area. There is also an Exhibition de Ofrendos (El Lugar de los Muertos, which means the place of the dead) at several restaurants. The traditional Day of the Dead altars can also be viewed and admired by visiting the many hotels along the main strip.
The Parade of the Catrinas on November 2 is an event not to be missed as the costumes are elaborate and breathtaking. It starts at Plaza Kioto at 7:30 pm and winds through the town streets, including the length of Cinco de Mayo to the Cancha Municipal. People line the streets for glimpses of the magical parade and can often take photos with their favourite Catrinas at the end of the line.
On November 3, everything wraps up with the Concurso de Catrinas de Zihuatanejo, another spectacular event as the participants are judged and crowned. Sadly, it’s all over after that, at least for another year, when I have no doubt that plans are already in place to top this year’s festivities.
The writer divides her time between Canada and Zihuatanejo.
