December in Oaxaca is a time period filled with festivals, parties and parades, punctuated with the bangs of homemade fireworks that go off all hours of day and night. This month leading up to Christmas is sometimes described as the season of the Virgens, with many celebrations around these particular saints.
If you’re in Mexico’s artistic and gastronomic capital this Christmas, here are some of the incredible activities you can enjoy.
December Pilgrimages
In Oaxaca, the Christmas season begins with the annual pilgrimage to Santa Catarina Juquila and the shrine of Our Lady of Juquila, known for healing miracles. Devout pilgrims arrive from a multi-day journey by foot from nearby villages while others travel long distances by bus from other states to celebrate her day of worship.
Date: Dec. 8
Location: Santa Catarina Juquila
Our Lady of Guadalupe is Mexico’s most celebrated saint, with activities in her honor taking place between Dec. 1 and 9. Oaxaca has a particular tradition. Families visit the Templo de la Virgen de Guadalupe, north edge of El Llano Park. Boys dress up as Juan Diego, who first saw the Virgin, while girls wear traditional blouses and skirts with their hair braided with ribbons.
When: Dec. 12
Where: Templo de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe
Our Lady of Solitude (Nuestra Señora de la Soledad) is the patron saint of Oaxaca and is honored with one of the state’s biggest December celebrations. Festivities start in front of the Basílica de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad and develop into one of the longest parades in Oaxaca. Arrive early to explore the food stalls nearby before the celebrations begin.
When: Dec. 18
Where: Basilica de Nuestra Señora de Soledad
Inauguration: “En memoria a”
Step into the evocative world of Alberto Cruz with “En memoria a…”, an exhibition that captures the essence of childhood innocence through the powerful simplicity of graphic imagery. A celebrated Oaxacan printmaker, Cruz’s work has traveled far and wide, gracing galleries across Mexico and internationally in the United States, United Kingdom, and Japan. Honored with the prestigious Takeda Award in 2016, his art resonates with universal themes and timeless charm. Don’t miss the inaugural event at El Alacrán, a vibrant art space within the collective founded by the legendary Francisco Toledo in Oaxaca. Join us for an unforgettable artistic experience!
Where: El Alacran, Murguia 302
When: 6 December 6pm
Amanda Miguel at Auditorio Guelaguetza
Rising dramatically on the hillside above Oaxaca’s Historic Center, the Auditorio Guelaguetza is more than just a venue — it’s a cultural icon. Originally built to showcase the vibrant traditions of Oaxaca’s annual Guelaguetza celebrations, the open-air amphitheater recently celebrated its 50th anniversary on November 27. This month, the stage comes alive with an exciting lineup of concerts, including a standout performance by the legendary singer-songwriter Amanda Miguel. Don’t miss the chance to experience world-class music in one of Oaxaca’s most stunning settings!
Date: Dec. 14 at 9 p.m.
Location: Auditorio Guelaguetza
Cost: Tickets start at 1000 pesos. Available for purchase online.
December at Cantinita Bar
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Get ready for a December full of beats, vibes, and festive cheer at Cantinita, the go-to spot in downtown Oaxaca for unforgettable nights! The month kicks off with New York’s Mr. Big Happy, spinning vinyl magic on December 7. Then, on December 18, brace yourself for a takeover by Mexico City’s Brujas, recently crowned No. 45 in North America’s @50bestbars.
Finally, mark your calendar for December 20, when the Cantinita crew and guest musicians come together for a lively Christmas Posada — the perfect way to celebrate the season with music and merriment. Don’t miss it!
Date: Dec. 7,18 and 20
Location: Cantinita Bar, below Hotel Sin Nombre
Posadas in Oaxaca
Posadas, which translates to “inns,” are processions and celebrations held during the evenings leading up to Christmas Eve. They are deeply rooted Christmas tradition celebrated in Oaxaca and other parts of Mexico. A posada is a re-enactment of Joseph and Mary’s journey: pilgrims arrive, request shelter and are refused — all in song. After several exchanges, the doors are opened. Inside, the host has prepared gifts of sweets and fruits and as a finale they break a piñata.
In Oaxaca, a posada is also the term for when families and friends also gather for festive Christmas parties — so get down and enjoy some traditional winter snacks and delicious ponche if you’re in town.
Date: Dec. 16-24
Location: Various; a good option is 6:30 p.m. at the church of San Matías Jalatlaco
Radish night
Noche de Los Rábanos, or Radish Night, is one of Oaxaca’s most popular December events. It dates back to the 1800s when vendors carved radishes to draw attention to their stands at the Christmas market. In 1897 it was declared an official competition. Now huge radishes are grown especially to carve into fantastic sculptural scenes such as the Last Supper. The event has become very popular, attracting over 100 contestants and thousands of visitors.
Date: December 23
Location: Zócalo, Oaxaca de Juárez
Las calendas del Niño Dios
For Christmas Eve, known as La Noche Buena, churches in central Oaxaca organize parades known as calendas. Each church is represented by different colored lanterns.
At the heart of the calenda is the baby Jesus, led by his madrinas (godmothers) to the main square in front of the Cathedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción. They circle the zocalo four times and then return to their host churches. Then Jesus is placed in a manger in time for the beginning of midnight mass.
The calenda typically starts around 8 p.m. at each church, reaching the cathedral by around 10 p.m.
Date: Dec. 24 at 10 p.m.
Location: Zócalo, Oaxaca de Juárez
Festive light show and markets
During the lead up to Christmas, Oaxaca city puts on a festive light show in front of Santo Domingo Church. This is a fun way to start an evening downtown, watching the lights, with a a hot elote and a warming drink.
During the day there are seasonal markets. One of the largest is located on Alcala, just north of Santo Domingo Church. These tent-covered stalls offer artisan crafts and specialty Christmas foods.
Date: Month of December
Location: Plaza de Santo Domingo
Winter wonderland
About an hour from Oaxaca city, the Pueblo Mágico of Mitla hosts festive celebrations beginning around the middle of December, lasting until the first week of January. The beautifully decorated town square has a small ice skating rink and a stage with nightly performances by local bands. It is a perfect festive trip for the whole family.
If you don’t want to go all the way to Mitla, Parque El Llano in Oaxaca city also has an ice rink, food vendors and nightly performances.
Date: Month of December
Location: Mitla and Parque el Llano in Oaxaca de Juárez
Anna Bruce is an award-winning British photojournalist based in Oaxaca, Mexico. Just some of the media outlets she has worked with include Vice, The Financial Times, Time Out, Huffington Post, The Times of London, the BBC and Sony TV. Find out more about her work at her website or visit her on social media on Instagram or on Facebook.
