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“CABO SAN LUCAS, Baja California Sur, Oct. 21 — I board the Ruta del Desierto bus at 7:30 p.m. en route to the Autónoma stop. I’m not flush enough to stay anywhere closer to the city center. There’s a woman in an orange blouse singing cumbia, banda and boleros with her own microphone and personal boombox that has pre-recorded songs, though I stopped paying attention after her rendition of “La Llorona,” a traditional Mexican folk song perhaps best known for the Chavela Vargas version. I must not make eye contact with her. I’ll have to tip her later if I do.”

Ethan Jacobs, Writer


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