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Not by sword but by pen: how Mexico’s peoples fought colonization in court

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indigenous map of Yucatán Peninsula
An indigenous mural map of the Yucatán Peninsula and its towns, found at Chichén Itzá. UNAM

In colonial Mexico, when a Spanish settler sought to build a ranch near a former Aztec aqueduct, the local indigenous community feared that the livestock would pollute the water supply and a crisis emerged.

To defend their land, they turned to a resource increasingly used again today by indigenous people throughout colonial Mexico: maps of the territory in question.

Created by trained cartographers or tlacuiloque, these land-grant maps became a valuable document in court proceedings to determine whether land would be issued to a petitioner.

Their narrative is getting increased attention thanks to a new book, Mapping Indigenous Land, by Ana Pulido Rull, a professor of art history at the University of Arkansas.

“They are a really great combination of geographic knowledge, art and mapmaking,” she said in a Zoom interview, noting, “Sometimes they were hung on walls for display.”

Siguenza Map
The Sigüenza Map, an indigenous cartographic history of the migration of the Mexica from the mythical Aztlán to Tenochtitlán, believed by scholars to have been made in the 16th century. INAH

“There was a very significant tradition of mapmaking in precolonial Mexico before the Spanish arrived,” Pulido Rull said, citing over 1,000 native maps, including from the colonial period. “Land-grant maps, the subject of my book, have not really been published before. Only a couple of books have been written [about them] before.”

She examined over 200 surviving maps from the 16th and 17th centuries in the national archives in Mexico City, where she is originally from.

“It was the best part of my research,” she said. “You get to open maps, touch the paper, see the pigments. They’re really beautiful … I had never seen any. They had not been published. It was a really fascinating experience.”

Although it was unusual to work in a space that had once been a prison, where documents are kept in former cells, Pulido Rull kept coming back. She studied the maps up close, using infrared cameras and ultraviolet light.

She calls the tlacuiloque “very artistic, very intelligent men and women,” noting that they were “trained as painters in a really sophisticated way of representing space.”

These mapmakers could have created a simple diagram, a plain map with glyphs, she explained, but instead they “created pigments, designed a space; they had to create a composition, a color palette.”

That palette includes the cochineal red made from insect parasites of the nopal cactus, which found its way into the paintings of Titian and Rembrandt.

“It was amazing, the different pigments [the tlacuiloque] used,” she noted.

As she discovered, indigenous mapmaking in Mexico dates back to A.D. 700. During the Spanish conquest, indigenous maps proved invaluable against the Aztecs.

“Spanish soldiers used the maps to find their way,” Pulido Rull said.

After the conquest, Spanish settlers sought grants of land, often at the expense of the indigenous community. Yet, expropriation did not immediately follow a settler’s request.

Because of Spanish law dating back to the Middle Ages, there had to be court proceedings. Indigenous communities could present maps of the disputed area that showed its value to them.

historian Ana Pulido Rull
Ana Pulido Rull, author of the book Mapping Indigenous Land, is a professor of art history at the University of Arkansas. Ana Pulido Rull

“The Spanish government opened a window, a way for indigenous people to participate actively in debates over land,” Pulido Rull said. “Also, indigenous people worked very hard. They learned the laws. They were very smart [about] how to keep territory, preserve territory, in a very difficult situation.”

She called this “a very unusual moment in history,” adding, “The land grant process had its advantages and also its limitations … A group of people was able to request to negotiate or defend territory.”

In their maps, tlacuiloque combined indigenous techniques with European elements. They might keep the traditional image of footprints to indicate routes while incorporating aspects introduced from Europe such as shadowing and perspective.

These mapmakers included Náhuatl glyphs and place names but eschewed depicting sacred Aztec spaces like monoliths, perhaps out of the belief that this would have little impact on a colonial administration that favored their conversion to Catholicism.

The maps were part of a larger story of negotiation during this period.

“I think indigenous communities came together in a very strong way to defend their land,” Pulido Rull said. “It was much more than defending their land. They always stood up for their rights in court whenever necessary. They fought for their land in the same way we do today.”

This included such measures as using legal documents and witnesses. They also built “houses overnight,” Pulido Rull said, “to show the land was in use.”

The academic thinks that negotiation is the most important part of her book.

“It would have been very difficult for indigenous communities to keep their land if they were just opposed to a situation. They really learned how to negotiate.”

In an instance Pulido Rull highlights in her book, a land-grant map was used to contest a settler’s request to build a ranch next to a former Aztec aqueduct.

“It was very dangerous because animals like cows and goats would trample on the aqueduct, destroy [it],” Pulido Rull said. “Their feces and urine would pollute the water just like that. You don’t want a cow to pee in your water or destroy your agriculture. Everybody opposed it … It was not only about a community; the Spanish would not be able to drink the water either.”

A tlacuiloque depicted the territory in question, including the location of the proposed ranch, the source of water and the aqueduct.

Mapping Indigenous Land book
Pulido Rull’s book says the taking of indigenous land by Spanish colonizers was often not without legal resistance. Ana Pulido Rull

In the end, however, this particular use of indigenous maps did not change the Spanish court’s mind. It granted the settler’s request.

“[This gives] an idea of how far the Spanish grants would go,” Pulido Rull said.

Collectively, several hundred thousand square feet of land were granted to Spaniards in such court proceedings during the 15th and 16th centuries, with under 400 square feet granted to indigenous people.

The environmental damage predicted for the aqueduct and its water supply reflected the ecological catastrophe of introducing new species such as cows, horses, pigs and goats — all which had no natural predators, as well as the required clearing of land.

“What you see is that the law in some cases was really a formality.” Yet, she added, “some indigenous families were able to keep their land. It gives you some … hope after reading so many terrible stories.”

Although indigenous cartography started to vanish after the colonial government began bringing in professional mapmakers from Europe, the land-grant maps have become an important legal document again.

“It has been going on since the Mexican Revolution,” Pulido Rull said. “In Mexico, these documents and images still have legal value.”

Indigenous communities, she noted, “travel all over Mexico looking for documents and maps. Today, the Mexican government still values [this] evidence as legal evidence.”

As she explained, maps from the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries can still be used to determine contemporary legal rights near a lake or pond. In some cases, indigenous families who kept their land through maps have passed it down through the generations through today.

“Even in the 21st century, indigenous communities still have a use for them,” Pulido Rull said. “People teach how to read the maps, for example … Certain towns still have their beautiful place names from Mesoamerica. Some elements still survive.”

Rich Tenorio is a frequent contributor to Mexico News Daily.

Jalisco cartel’s Puerto Vallarta plaza chief arrested

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The army tracked Don Carlos for months before arresting him in Puerto Vallarta on Thursday.
The defense ministry tracked Don Carlos for months before arresting him in Puerto Vallarta on Thursday. Sedena

The army arrested the local plaza boss of the Jalisco New Generation Cartel (CJNG) in Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, on Thursday.

Carlos Pelayo Núñez, known as “Don Carlos,” is believed responsible for supplying weapons and vehicles in Puerto Vallarta and central Jalisco, taking orders directly from cartel leader Nemesio Oseguera Cervantes, also known as “El Mencho.”

The Defense Ministry (Sedena), assisted by the federal intelligence agency (CNI), tracked Don Carlos for some months. They detained him on a property in the affluent Vallarta Marina, nine kilometers northwest of the city center.

The operation involved 150 soldiers and agents from the federal Attorney General’s Office.

One resident was said they were disturbed by the level of commotion. “It looks like a war zone … here in the marina … helicopters circling from 3 a.m. and parked inside the golf course,” they wrote on Twitter.

One neighbor described the upscale neighborhood as a "war zone" after the army moved in to make the arrest.
One neighbor described the upscale neighborhood as a “war zone” after the army moved in to make the arrest. Tribuna de la Bahía

The security forces confiscated a luxury car, weapons and drugs before transferring Don Carlos to Mexico City.

However, Puerto Vallarta is felt to be safe in relative terms: the latest National Survey on Urban Public Security, conducted by the national statistics agency Inegi, placed Puerto Vallarta as one of the safest cities in the country.

The arrest marks another victory for the government in its battle against the CJNG, which is widely thought to be the most powerful criminal organization in Mexico. In November, security forces arrested El Mencho’s wife Rosalinda González Valencia.

With reports from El Universal and Infobae

Taco prices rise as cost of limes is up 153% in one year

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Mexican limes
Mexican limes for sale at 98 pesos per kilo in Tijuana.

High lime prices are hitting the pockets of Mexican consumers by bumping the cost of tacos. The price of the citrus fruit has skyrocketed 153% in annual terms, according to the Economy Ministry.

In Mexico City’s Central Wholesale Market a kilogram of lime costs 65 pesos (US $3.15), but in supermarkets in the north and center of the country a kilogram costs up to 120 pesos ($5.81), the newspaper El País reported.

The fall in nationwide production of the citrus fruit is one of the causal factors: production dropped 4% in December compared to the same month in 2020, the Agriculture Ministry said. That meant 12,280 fewer tonnes went to market. In Michoacán, which provides 28% of national production, the yield for December 2021 was down 48% in annual terms.

Adán Flores, a taco vendor in the Mexico City borough of Cuauhtémoc, said he opted to raise the price of tacos, rather than limit the limes available to customers, and bumped the price of the suadero taco from 12-15 pesos.

Luis Saucedo, a regular customer at the El Chupacabras taquería in Coyoacán in the south of Mexico City, said the lower lime supply had affected his plate directly. “Before they had a clay pot with ready sliced limes, from which each customer could help themself. Now they only give you a quarter lime for each taco,” he said.

Chicharrónes & Carnitas Don Nacho went viral for advertising a tongue-in-cheek deal: two limes for 70 pesos.
Chicharrónes & Carnitas Don Nacho went viral for advertising a tongue-in-cheek deal: buy two limes for 70 pesos and get a quarter-kilo of carnitas free.

One restaurant owner in Hidalgo had an ironic offer for customers: buy two limes for 70 pesos and get a quarter kilogram of carnitas, or braised pork, at no charge.

However, an economics researcher at the National Autonomous University (UNAM), David Lozano, said that while adverse weather had affected the yield, organized crime was also disrupting supply. “In Colima and Michoacán, the two main producing states, in addition to the effects of frost and climate change, there is the interference of organized crime where farmers cannot distribute the product easily,” he said.

Lime producers in Michoacán said extortion was pushing up prices and dissuading growers. They said criminals demand money from lime harvesters, “from the land owners, from the packers, from the transporters. At each stage the price of lime rises to be able to pay the criminals, that is why many [growers] decided not to produce,” they said.

Harassment by cartels has caused dozens of hectares of lime in Tepalcatepec, Aguililla, Buenavista Tomatlán and Apatzingán to be abandoned by producers, the newspaper Reforma reported.

But lime isn’t the only product that’s getting pricier. Costs have risen more widely: inflation in 2021 soared to 7.36%, the highest level in 21 years. Lozano added that the price of limes could remain high in February and March.

The head of the consumer protection agency Profeco, Ricardo Sheffield, said on January 17 that while lime costs had risen, other groceries had gotten cheaper. “While it’s true that the lime has gone up, it is also true that the serrano chile has gone down and the saladette tomato has fallen. These products have compensated for … the increase in lime,” he said.

President López Obrador, returning from a COVID-19 forced absence, said on January 17 that he used less lime than usual in his curative hot drink while feeling under the weather due to the high price.

With reports from El País, Reforma and El Heraldo de México

Motorists find way to defeat toll plaza tire spikes

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A man raises the boom at a toll plaza.
A man raises the boom at a toll plaza.

A tire-popping system was put into operation at a México state toll plaza less than a week ago but motorists have already found a way to evade it despite not paying the toll.

Some motorists discovered they were able to prevent the activation of the automated traffic spike system at the Las Américas toll plaza in Ecatepec by getting out of their vehicles and manually lifting the boom barriers.

Motorcyclists have also reportedly continued to pass through unimpeded despite not paying the toll by avoiding all contact with the boom.

For drivers of cars, buses and trucks, “the secret is to not push the barrier [with your vehicle],” shouted one scofflaw late last week, according to the newspaper El Universal.

The man works as a ticket collector on a bus but now has the added responsibility of alighting at the toll plaza and lifting up the barrier with his hands, the newspaper said.

Por negarse a pagar la caseta, conductor casi es atropellado y tráiler embiste su auto
A runaway semi-trailer totalled his car, but the driver got away unscathed.

 

El Universal witnessed three other motorists lifting the boom gates so they could pass through without paying the toll and without having their vehicles’ tires punctured, as happened to a semi-trailer last Tuesday.

One of the toll evaders was a police officer, the newspaper said. It reported that an officer got out of his car and demanded he be let through for free. But a toll plaza employee refused to lift the barrier even though the officer showed her his badge and gun.

The policeman proceeded to lift the gate with his hands and his vehicle and seven others subsequently passed through the toll plaza without paying.

Another man’s attempt to avoid paying at the same plaza may have saved his life. On January 9, before the tire-spike system began operating at the Las Américas toll plaza, a man got out of his car to manually open the boom gate.

Seconds later, a semi-trailer narrowly missed him as it passed through the plaza at high speed. The truck smashed into the man’s car, pushing it down the road well past the toll gate where it had stopped, footage posted to social media showed.

El Universal reported that the man’s car was destroyed in the collision. The truck driver, whose vehicle’s brakes apparently failed, was uninjured. It was unclear whether the man who opened the toll gate was fined, El Universal said.

With reports from El Universal 

US energy secretary expressed concern over Mexico’s electrical reform

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Energy Minister Rocío Nahle and U.S. Secretary of Energy Jennifer Granholm pose for a picture at their meeting last week.
(S)he said, she said: Energy Minister Rocío Nahle and US Energy Secretary Jennifer Granholm pose for a photo at their meeting last week. Twitter @rocionahle

United States Energy Secretary Jennifer Granholm conveyed “real concerns” about Mexico’s proposed electricity reform during her visit to Mexico City late last week, contrary to statements by Mexican officials.

Energy Minister Rocío Nahle said last Thursday that the United States was not concerned about the planned constitutional reform – which would guarantee 54% of the electricity market to the state-owned Federal Electricity Commission, but Granholm countered that claim in a statement issued Friday.

“Throughout my trip, I met with senior Mexican leadership, including President Andrés Manuel López Obrador, as well as industry, legislators, and civil society, for frank and respectful dialogue. In each meeting, we expressly conveyed the Biden-Harris administration’s real concerns with the potential negative impact of Mexico’s proposed energy reforms on U.S. private investment in Mexico,” she said.

“The proposed reform could also hinder U.S.-Mexico joint efforts on clean energy and climate,” Granholm added.

On a more positive note, the energy secretary said she was assured that Mexico is committed to supporting clean energy and resolving current disputes with energy projects within the rule of law.

“Mexico is blessed with an abundance of potential renewable energy, that, if fully realized, could power its own country at least 10 times over, create millions of good-paying jobs, and develop an extraordinary export industry geared for a world in need of clean energy solutions,” the statement continued.

“We have expressed our enthusiasm about working with the Mexican government to advance their climate goals, and grow a competitive and diversified clean energy economy,” Granholm said.

Four United States Democratic Party senators wrote to the energy secretary early last week to urge her to challenge the Mexican government on its decision to “prioritize fossil fuel development over renewable energy.”

They warned of a range of adverse consequences if the proposed electricity reform is approved, including the cancellation of renewable energy permits, contracts, and certificates.

In public remarks during a meeting with Foreign Affairs Minister Marcelo Ebrard last Thursday, Granholm acknowledged that “there may be issues” with regard to the electricity reform but emphasized that the United States and Mexico would continue to be “strong allies” and “strongly supportive of a strong North American economy.”

In a letter sent to Republican Party Representative Buddy Carter the same day, the energy secretary, Secretary of Commerce Gina Raimondo and United States Trade Representative Katherine Tai declared that U.S. agencies remain committed to ensuring fair treatment of U.S. investors in Mexico.

The officials told the lawmaker that the Office of the U.S. Trade Representative was continuing to review Mexico’s energy sector plans to determine their compliance or lack thereof with the USMCA, the North American free trade pact that took effect in July 2020. U.S. lawmakers, including the senators who wrote to Granholm last week, have warned that the electricity reform violates USMCA provisions.

The Congress is expected to vote on the controversial bill – which requires two-thirds support to pass – in April. The ruling Morena party doesn’t have a supermajority in either the Chamber of Deputies or the Senate, meaning it will need the support of some opposition lawmakers to approve the reform.

The Canadian Chamber of Commerce in Mexico, the European Union’s ambassador to Mexico, U.S. Ambassador Ken Salazar and the Mexican Solar Energy Association have also raised concerns about the planned constitutional change, which would partially reverse the 2013 reform that opened up the electricity and oil markets to foreign and private companies.

With reports from El Universal 

Quintana Roo hotel shooting victims had history of criminal activities in Canada

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shooting victims
Robert James Dinh, left, and Thomas Cherukara, right, died in the attack at the Xcaret Hotel. Ceara Jessica Sahadee survived. All three victims were Canadian.

The two Canadian men shot and killed in a hotel in Quintana Roo on Friday both had long criminal histories.

Robert James Dinh was part of a Vietnamese crime syndicate operating in Canada and the United States, according to news reports. He was suspected of money laundering, using a false identity and other criminal activities, and was thought to be the right hand man to the gang’s leader Cong Dinh, the news website Infobae and the newspaper El Universal reported.

The other victim, Canadian Thomas Cherukara, was suspected of a long list of criminal activities including drug trafficking, robbery, weapons possession and using a false identity, but it is not clear whether he belonged to the same organization. A Canadian woman, Ceara Jessica Sahadee Yari, 29, was wounded.

Authorities are searching for a male assailant who fled on foot immediately after the shooting at the Xcaret Hotel between Playa del Carmen and Tulum.

The former chief superintendent of federal policing in British Columbia, Keith Finn, said in 2019 that the Vietnamese criminal group had wide international operations. “It was allegedly transporting ecstasy and marijuana to the southern United States, as well as cocaine to northern Canada,” and had affiliates in California, Mexico, Australia, Vietnam and across Canada, he said.

Canada announced a CA $50,000 reward for Cong Dinh in 2019.
Canada announced a CAD $50,000 reward for Cong Dinh in 2019.

The newspaper Milenio reported that Robert Dinh and Cong Dinh were the same man, who was thought to have fled to Vietnam in 2013. The Canadian police offered CAD $50,000 (about US $37,700) for information on Cong Dinh in 2019.

The incident is the fourth beachfront shooting in the state since last October, when gunfire left two tourists dead in Tulum. Another incident saw two drug dealers shot and killed on a beach in Puerto Morelos in November.

In December, shooters arrived on a Cancún beach in personal watercraft, fired weapons into the air and fled.

The increase in violence triggered the deployment in December of a new tourism security battalion of the National Guard.

With reports from Milenio, Infobae and El Universal

COVID roundup: only 12 states are now green on new coronavirus risk map

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Red is back on the map for the first time in 2022.
Red is back on the map for the first time in 2022. Semáforo COVID-19

Maximum risk red appears on the federal government’s coronavirus stoplight map for the first time this year as the fourth wave of infections continues to grow.

The small Bajío region state of Aguascalientes is red on the updated map, which takes effect Monday and remains in force through February 6.

Nine states are high risk orange, 10 are medium risk yellow and 12 are low risk green. There were 19 green states on the previous map and just three orange ones, but case numbers have exploded recently as the highly contagious omicron variant spreads rapidly across the country.

Among the 32 states, Aguascalientes – yellow on the previous map – has the highest occupancy rate for hospital beds with ventilators, with 65% currently in use.

Almost three-quarters of general care beds are taken in the state, which has just over 3,000 active cases, or about 200 per 100,000 people, according to the latest Health Ministry data.

Health personnel attend to a pacient suspected of having COVID-19 in Mexico City.
Health personnel attend to a patient suspected of having COVID-19 in Mexico City. IMSS

Eight of the nine orange states are in Mexico’s north. The northern border states of Baja California, Sonora, Chihuahua, Coahuila and Nuevo León are all high risk as are Baja California Sur, Durango and Zacatecas.

The only orange state not in the north is tourism-oriented Quintana Roo, where Cancún, Playa del Carmen and Tulum are located.

The 10 medium risk states are Mexico City, México state, Guanajuato, Querétaro, Jalisco, Morelos, San Luis Potosí, Sinaloa, Tamaulipas and Yucatán. The 12 green states include Mexico’s five southernmost Pacific coast states and the Gulf coast states of Campeche, Tabasco and Veracruz.

The entry into force of the new map comes after Mexico recorded just under 300,000 confirmed cases over the past seven days.

A new single-day record of 60,552 new cases was set last Wednesday, and over 50,000 were reported on each of Thursday and Friday before the daily count fell to 49,906 on Saturday.

The Health Ministry reported 20,872 additional cases on Sunday, lifting Mexico’s accumulated tally to 4.66 million. There are just over 338,000 estimated active cases.

The daily average of reported case numbers is up 910% in January compared to December, but COVID-19 deaths are down 2% to an average of 163 per day in the first 23 days of the month.

An additional 98 fatalities were reported Sunday, increasing the official death toll to 303,183.

In other COVID-19 news:

• The national occupancy rate for general care beds in COVID wards is 41%, while 25% of beds with ventilators are taken, the Health Ministry reported Sunday.

Durango has the highest rate in the former category with 83% of beds in use. Three-quarters of general care beds are taken in Nuevo León, while the occupancy rate is 73% in each of Aguascalientes and Mexico City.

• Health Ministry data shows that 516 children were hospitalized for COVID-19 between January 9 and 15, the highest number for a single week since the beginning of the pandemic. The previous high was 396 between August 15 and 21 of last year, when Mexico was amid a delta-fueled third wave.

Workers in the COVID area of a Mexico City hospital transport an infant.
Workers in the COVID area of a Mexico City hospital transport an infant.

Almost 12,000 children have been hospitalized for COVID since the beginning of the pandemic and just over 1,000 have died. Infants aged two and under account for 37% of hospitalizations among minors.

• Baja California Sur still has the highest number of cases on a per capita basis with over 1,000 per 100,000 people. Mexico City ranks second with more than 800, while each of Tabasco and Colima has over 600.

• More than 83.3 million people have been vaccinated in Mexico, of whom 93% are considered fully vaccinated. The federal  government began a booster shot program last month with seniors and teachers given priority.

People aged 40 and over can register their interest in receiving a booster shot on the government’s vaccination website.

• The northern state of Nuevo León will be the first to have all citizens aged five and up vaccinated against COVID, the governor announced after obtaining a donation of 500,000 Pfizer shots from its U.S. neighbor, the state of Texas.

Samuel García said his state will set an example for all of Mexico within three months by vaccinating children aged five to 14, something the federal government — which is vaccinating youths aged 15 and up — has declined to do.

• Despite the increase in case numbers, classes and large events such as concerts won’t be canceled in Mexico City, said Mayor Claudia Sheinbaum.

Although the capital regressed from green to yellow on the stoplight map,“the city’s activities are not changing,” she said Sunday.

“… We’re asking people to take care and the strategy is to vaccinate [residents with a third dose] as soon as possible,” Sheinbaum said, adding that she expected all citizens to have received a booster shot by the end of February.

Mexico City currently has more than 73,000 active cases, meaning that about one in five confirmed cases over the past two weeks were detected in the capital.

The megalopolis leads the country for both total cases and COVID-related deaths with 1.16 million of the former and 53,189 of the latter.

With reports from Reforma, El Universal and Milenio

Meet the psychologist who became Mexico’s top ghost hunter

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Tour Insolito, Mexico City
Pendulum work at the haunted hospital in Colonia Roma in Mexico City, part of the Tour Insólito. Mexican Agency for Paranormal Investigation.

Antonio Zamudio, a paranormal investigator for over 25 years in Mexico, says the country is rich in ghost stories in part because its history “has been written in blood in all of its decades.”

Hernán Cortés’ translator, La Malinche, is said to haunt a phantom temple in Quechula; a headless version of Pancho Villa is said to haunt a hotel in Douglas, Arizona, smack up on the Mexican border. More recent ghost stories involve students killed at the 1968 Tlatelolco Massacre and the 43 from Ayotzinapa who likely died in 2014.

It should be no surprise that ghost stories concentrate in the country’s oldest and largest cities. They especially abound in  Mexico City, where paranormal activity has been mentioned here since the early colonial period, including the first Spanish-language mention of La Llorona.

But attempts to scientifically prove or disprove such phenomena has a far spottier history. The last major researcher and believer was none other than the man who launched the Mexican Revolution, president Francisco I. Madero — a tragic figure in his own right.

Madero founded a society specifically related to the paranormal, but it dissipated after his death. For decades, the only organization like this was the still-in-existence Mexican Society for Skeptical Investigation, which does not focus only on the paranormal and leans heavily toward the debunking of stories.

Antonio Zamudio
Antonio Zamudio.

That is until psychologist Antonio Zamudio of Mexico City came upon the scene.

As you might expect, Zamudio’s relationship with the paranormal began with a personal experience, starting from when he was only four years old. His family had rented a house in the capital for a time.

Being the youngest, Zamudio slept with his parents. But that did not stop him from waking up in the early morning hours with the idea that someone was watching him. The sensation came from a window facing a tragaluz, an enclosed niche in the back of many Mexico City residences to allow for the entrance of light and air but with no access to the street.

Of course, his parents thought it was bad dreams until the other family members began seeing strange things. The main trauma that Zamudio experienced came one early morning while getting ready for school.

Drinking a warm beverage, he looked into the mirror to find the ghost of a woman with burned and peeling skin sitting next to him. The memory terrified him until he was about 10, when he started reading books about paranormal research.

That particular house has had a strong reputation for being haunted for many years, and even to this day, Zamudio has not yet done an investigation there.

Tour Insolito
Using a ouija board on the Mexico City Tour Insólito in Mexico City.

He continued his interest in psychology and parapsychology into his college years, enrolling at the National Autonomous University. However, there was friction between him and the psychology department over whether to take parapsychology seriously.

But he did meet a number of like-minded people and decided to go to Barcelona to study parapsychology and the occult.

Europe is relatively open-minded about such things and has organizations dedicated to scientifically examining claims. Zamudio asked himself, “Why not in Mexico?’”

So, when he returned, he first founded the Mexican Agency for Paranormal Investigation in 1994, followed by the National Center for Parascience in 1996.

The first group is dedicated to fieldwork, interviewing witnesses and trying to record evidence with various kinds of modern devices. They do not go in with the assumption that a story is true.

Some members specialize in software specifically designed to detect frauds. They have video blogged a number of their cases at a Spanish language site.

Haunted Latin America TV show poster
Advertisement for the Netflix series Zamudio co-hosted.

Zamudio and his organizations over the years have investigated and documented over 300 cases. He does not believe that such experiences are limited to those with some kind of gift but rather something that can happen to anyone.

Although Mexico City provides the potential for more than one lifetime of work, Zamudio does not limit his attention to the capital. There are associates with one or both organizations in just about all of Mexico’s states, as well as collaborations with people in Europe and Latin America and fieldwork in Colombia and other South American countries.

Another aspect is community engagement: this began with the Tour Insólito (Unusual or Strange Tour), whose main function is to take a group of people and enter a place noted for being haunted, going through with the visitors the same steps that their researchers do. This includes high-tech devices but also some classic tools such as Ouija boards and pendulums.

Before the pandemic, their tours were regularly scheduled in the Roma-Condesa neighborhood of Mexico City, but they had done others sporadically in Guadalajara and other cities. Zamudio hopes to return to the tours in March, including those in English.

His other outreach work is collaborating with Netflix. In 2021, he co-hosted a series called Haunted: Latin America, which focuses on cases in Mexico and Colombia. The first Mexican episode featured “The Evil House” of Apodaca, Nuevo León, basically the Amityville Horror of Mexico.

Zamudio emphasizes that while there is an element of drama to the episodes, all cases presented follow his organization’s standards for investigation. He currently is negotiating with Netflix on a new project but declined to reveal any of the details.

Mexican Agency for Paranormal Investigation logo
The logo of Zamudio’s Mexican Agency for Paranormal Investigation.

The purpose of these outreach efforts is not to convince people to believe in ghosts — and certainly not in any particular case — but rather to encourage people to be more open-minded about both the existence of the paranormal and the ability to research it scientifically.

• Have you ever seen or experienced something like Antonio Zamudio investigates? Share your story with us in the comments.

Leigh Thelmadatter arrived in Mexico 18 years ago and fell in love with the land and the culture in particular its handcrafts and art. She is the author of Mexican Cartonería: Paper, Paste and Fiesta (Schiffer 2019). Her culture column appears regularly on Mexico News Daily.

Birria’s earthy mix of chiles, spices and herbs is conquering the world stage

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quesabirria tacos
You may have seen these tasty tacos all over Instagram.

Traditional birria, made with lamb or goat, originally hails from Jalisco, where it’s a standard at weddings, parties and holiday gatherings, and also a hangover remedy for said celebrations. The flavorful stew can be made thick or thin, eaten with corn tortillas and topped with fresh onions and cilantro.

But the taco of Instagram fame came out of Tijuana, where enterprising cooks, using beef instead of mutton, folded the flavorful braised meat into a tortilla filled with melted cheese and served it with a broth for dunking.

In the last few years, it’s become a “culinary craze” all over the United States and beyond, and I must admit I love quesabirria tacos too, especially for breakfast.

In what is actually typical of Mexican cuisine — but unknown to many cooks in Western countries — an assortment of chiles is what makes birria so notable and deliciously earthy, irresistibly sweet and spicy all at the same time. Those of us in Mexico are lucky that we can find these dried chiles easily; readers north of the border may have to search a little harder.

Birria is traditionally cooked long and slow with pots of the marinated meat steamed in an underground oven much like barbacoa. This ensures that all the flavor is released from the bones and a complete melding of the spices, chiles, herbs and other ingredients.

birria stew
In Jalisco, don’t hold your wedding without some birria!

Without an underground oven, modern-day methods include using a slow cooker or Instant Pot or just several hours of slow, covered braising in the oven. While it’s a bit time-consuming to make the marinade and sear the meats, the end result is well worth the effort, and once everything is in the oven, you’re free to do whatever.

Part of the allure of quesabirria tacos is the combination of the crisped tortilla shells, red with spice and fat, the gooey melted cheese and the delight of dipping the whole thing into a flavorful consommé.

Is it easier to find a restaurant that serves it and just go out to eat? Definitely. But for those adventurous cooks who want to try making it at home, birria is an immensely satisfying (and impressive!) dish to add to your culinary repertoire.

Quesabirria Tacos

  • 5 dried guajillo chiles
  • 3 dried morita chiles
  • 3 dried pasilla chiles
  • 1½ Tbsp. vegetable oil
  • 2 lb. beef brisket or beef chuck roast
  • 2 lb. oxtails, short ribs, or beef shank
  • Kosher salt
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • 10 cloves garlic
  • 6 cloves
  • 1 cinnamon stick
  • 1 tsp. dried oregano
  • 1½ tsp. cumin seeds
  • 3 Roma tomatoes, halved
  • ¼ cup white wine vinegar
  • 1 onion, quartered
  • 5 bay leaves
  • Corn tortillas
  • Shredded Oaxaca or mozzarella cheese
  • Minced fresh cilantro and white onion
  • Lime wedges

Preheat oven to 350 F. Place all chiles into a large, heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven. Over medium heat, toast 1–2 minutes, stirring frequently. Remove to a bowl; cover with 3 cups boiling water.

Submerge chiles for 20 minutes until rehydrated and pliable. Remove chiles, reserving liquid.

Season beef with salt and pepper. Add oil to Dutch oven. Heat on medium-high. Working in batches, sear beef thoroughly (6–7 minutes per side for brisket/roast, 4–5 minutes for bone-in parts). Set aside.

In blender, add dehydrated chiles, garlic, cloves, cinnamon stick, oregano, cumin seeds, tomatoes, vinegar and 1½ cups of chile liquid. Carefully process 1 minute until mixture becomes a pourable paste.

Return beef to Dutch oven over medium heat; add onion and bay leaves, then chile paste and enough water to just cover the beef (about 3–4 cups). If using Instant Pot or slow cooker, at this point, see instructions for each of these options below.

Bring to a simmer. Remove from heat, cover and place in preheated oven. Braise 4 to 4½ hours until beef is fork-tender. Discard bay leaves and onion; transfer meat to a cutting board. Reserve all broth/consommé. Shred beef; set aside.

Season consommé with salt and pepper to taste. If desired, thin with water, chicken or beef stock. Bring to a simmer and taste/season again.

ingredients for birria tacos
Outside Mexico, the chiles you need may require some hunting down.

In an Instant Pot: follow recipe for sauce above. Sear meat in Instant Pot or stovetop. Place sauce and meat in Instant Pot; cook on high in the Stew setting for about 50 minutes. Remove meat and shred, reserving liquid (consommé). Continue for instructions to make quesabirria tacos.

In a slow cooker: make the sauce as stated in the recipe. Sear the meat, then pour in the sauce and broth. Cook on high for 6–7 hours. Remove meat and shred, reserving liquid (consommé). Continue for instructions to make tacos.

To make quesabirria tacos: Bring consommé to a simmer (there will be a layer of dark red fat on the top). Heat a comal or cast-iron pan over medium. Line up bowls with shredded Oaxaca cheese, cilantro and onions; place tortillas and shredded beef nearby.

Working in batches, place about ⅓ cup of beef in comal or pan and sear, stirring to evenly brown. Dip one corn tortilla into consommé, coating both sides with the red fat. Place on the pan/comal and cover with cheese.

Fry tortilla for 3 minutes until cheese has mostly melted and the underside has browned and started to crisp. Place a small amount of the seared meat onto one half of a tortilla; top with cilantro and white onion. Fold into a taco and sear each side for 30 seconds and remove.

Repeat with all the meat. Serve tacos with lime wedges and small bowls of consommé for dipping. — www.delish.com

Birria María Cocktail

 The Bloody Mary’s Mexican cousin!

  • Tajín (find it in your market sold with the spices)
  • 1 cup cold birria broth, skimmed of fat, strained
  • 2 oz. fresh lime juice
  • 1 oz. fresh orange juice
  • 1 oz. tequila blanco
  • Hot sauce to taste
  • Salsa Maggi or Worcestershire sauce
  • Red wine vinegar
  • Cold beer (like Pacifico)
  • Lime wedges, for garnishing

Rim two pint glasses with Tajin. In a cocktail shaker, add broth, tequila, lime and orange juice. Add hot sauce, Salsa Maggi and vinegar to taste.

Fill shaker with ice, secure lid and shake vigorously at least 30 seconds. Strain into the glasses.

Top with beer; stir to blend. Garnish with lime wedges.

  • Have you ever tried this dish, perhaps at a party with your Mexican friends? What did you think of it? We’re curious to hear your experiences with this unusual sweet, sour and spicy food.

Janet Blaser is the author of the best-selling book, Why We Left: An Anthology of American Women Expatsfeatured on CNBC and MarketWatch. She has lived in Mexico since 2006. You can find her on Facebook.

Which of today’s events will be the ones Mexico can’t forget?

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Tlatelolco massacre Mexico City 1968
One of Mexico's indelible collective memories is that of the 1968 Tlatelolco Massacre. Will what is happening today end up imprinted on the nation's consciousness?

In a Psychology 101 class in college, our teacher showed us a documentary about a man whose memory reset approximately every seven seconds.

The condition was the result of a virus, and since it had struck him, he’d been living in a psychiatric hospital.

His diary was filled with hundreds of variations of the same line: “I just woke up. I just woke up. I just woke up.” By the time he finished writing the sentence, he’d again have the feeling of just having regained consciousness and would write it down again.

The man’s wife would go visit him, and the visits, at least for him, looked joyful. She’d walk in, and he’d hop up to envelop her in a big bear hug. “I’m so happy to see you!” That was usually the extent of the dialogue of their visits since by the time the hug was finished, his memory had reset.

He did not seem unhappy. In fact, I’d say he seemed downright amazed by all the wonderful things he perceived to be suddenly before him.

It’s a story that has stuck with me for over 20 years. This is remarkable for me, as my own memory is, I’m pretty sure, extremely bad.

When things go into my head, they don’t get organized and filed away, but rather turn into little water particles that float around in what feels like a cloud of vague sensations. They’re hard to get back, and I find it ironic that words are precisely how I make my living given that both my memories and most of my thoughts are not actually in the form of words.

I only recently discovered that most people have an internal dialogue going, The Wonder Years-style. I never suspected that was real.

Ask me what I did yesterday, and I really have to think about it. I keep a diary specifically to ensure that there’s a record somewhere, and when I forget (ha!) for a day or two, it’s a real struggle to think back to everything that I did two or three days prior. I’d be useless on a witness stand.

My house is filled with calendars and to-do lists that provide various degrees of helpfulness. I open every click-baity article with a title like, “Could You Have Adult ADHD?”

Knowing that memories tend to become distorted as time goes on, I decided to see what information I could find about the man from the documentary.

His name is Clive Wearing, and while he has a charming British accent that might throw some people off (how do they always sound so jolly?), he’s most definitely not joyful all the time.

Asked what it’s like to have no memory, he says, “It’s exactly the same as being dead … You don’t do anything at all.”

Ah, memory. You have failed me once again!

The more recent documentary I found of him on YouTube led me down a rabbit hole where I found stories of people on the opposite side of the spectrum: those who could very literally remember the entirety of their lives.

The actress Marilu Henner (the redhead lady from the American TV show Taxi) is one of them. While she seemed perfectly happy and grateful to remember all the details of her life to date, others expressed the desire to give back this “gift.” If many of one’s memories are both sad and constantly accessible, I imagine it can be a real drag.

What does all this have to do with Mexico? Well, so far, nothing.

Sick of all the depressing news and not wanting to essentially rewrite any number of articles I’ve already written, I had decided to write about something much more benign: spring cleaning. In addition to writing and translating, one of my biggest passions is, well, cleaning. Or more romantically: making one’s physical environment safe, functional and beautiful.

It’s also fresh on my mind right now as I’m currently working for a friend (from a distance) to help her get her house organized and packed for a move next week. “I know!” I thought. “A nice spring cleaning guide specific to Mexican homes!”

So I got started by writing about the importance of fresh starts. I love the feeling of everything being new, of feeling refreshed, of an illuminating change of perspective brought by an adjustment, or a purge.

I love dumping out the old and the stale.

I want to feel like “I just woke up,” have my mind glistening clean before my cloud of wordless, heavy thoughts moves into consciousness. I abhor junk.

So I do in my physical space what I can’t always do in my mind: I get rid of useless stuff that’s just clouding things up; sort; organize; put everything in its proper place. (I’m still planning on writing out some spring cleaning tips, by the way, which I suppose at this point I’ll leave for next week.)

In the meantime, I’m meditating on how our memories hurt or help us along this winding path of history and how important either remembering or forgetting will be for our collective futures.

Luis Echeverría just turned 100 (only the good die young?), and I wonder: do the memories of the Tlatelolco massacre haunt him? Has he forgotten? Or has he distorted them in a way that leaves his conscience clear?

What about memories of all the COVID-19 victims who didn’t make it over the past two years as tourists continue pouring into the areas that have become the hardest hit? Are the bad times best left forgotten, or should we keep those cautionary memories on the surface even as this wave seems mercifully lighter but more widespread?

I’d be willing to bet that hospital personnel have an opinion.

Will AMLO ever let go of the actions he was sure would turn Mexico into a utopia from the 1970s, or will his insistence that those never forgotten but now outdated plans keep the country from moving forward? Is the refusal to recognize our very recent, very poor record of human rights violations a forgetfulness, a willful blindness or just plain old cognitive dissonance?

Which memories are worthy of being kept ever-present in our collective consciousness and which should simply be discarded so that we can all say, “Ah, I just woke up! It’s a brand-new day!”

Sarah DeVries is a writer and translator based in Xalapa, Veracruz. She can be reached through her website, sdevrieswritingandtranslating.com and her Patreon page.