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Saturday, January 16, 2021

Stories by Joseph Sorrentino

  • Cholula

    At a Covid crossroads, some Cholula businesses fear they’ve closed for good

    In normal times, Cholula, Puebla, one of Mexico’s magical towns, is a major tourist site. But these are anything but normal times.

    January 16
  • When crossing streets here, plan on all types of oncoming vehicles.

    The best advice for pedestrians in Mexico: show no fear

    Mexicans may be among the nicest people in the world, but put them in the driver’s seat and some mysterious sort of killer instinct kicks in.

    January 13
  • Each baker puts their own stamp on rosca de reyes, a traditional Candlemas bread.

    Kings’ Day bread is all about tradition, but each baker’s method is personal

    Rosca de reyes, or Kings’ Day bread, is a Mexican tradition, but each baker expresses their creativity in their unique twist on the recipe.

    January 6
  • A finished La Befana waits for the annual Epiphany ritual to begin.

    Italian Epiphany tradition helps a Puebla town remember its heritage

    In the 1990s, Chipilo, Puebla residents brought an Italian Epiphany ritual to Mexico to honor their ancestors from the Véneto region.

    December 30
  • Concepción Fernández and daughter-in-law Guadalupe prepare chiles navideños.

    Stuffed chile dish is a staple in Puebla during the Christmas season

    Every family has its own recipe for this traditional dish, which is served at Christmas and on New Year’s Day.

    December 25
  • A common sight just after Mexico's topes is a driver fixing his car's undercarriage.

    Mexico’s speedbumps are a noble but misguided attempt at road safety

    Topes, Mexico’s uniquely tall speedbumps, try to quell Mexican drivers’ love for speed by threatening to take out a car’s undercarriage.

    December 23
  • Chipileños sing at one of their neighbors' doors.

    Puebla town’s New Year’s Day tradition harkens back to Italian ancestry

    Chipilo, Puebla residents’ ancestors brought this New Year’s Day tradition with them in 1882 when they migrated from Italy’s Veneto region.

    December 16
  • In Mexico, even dogs are fans of cohetes.

    Love them or hate them, cohetes mark nearly every part of Mexican life

    When I complain to friends back in the U.S. about cohetes, the bottle rockets that are a staple of Mexican  FULL STORY

    December 10
  • Often associated with birthdays, piñatas also feature in Christmastime posadas.

    December’s posadas mix dancing, fireworks, drink and devotion

    A reenaction of Mary and Joseph seeking shelter, Mexico’s posadas are also joyful community Christmastime parties that unite neighborhoods.

    December 2
  • Veteran carpenter Francisco Castillo has seen Chipilo's economy transform.

    ‘In the future, it will be furniture:’ a Puebla town adapts to a changing market

    Chipilo, Puebla, a 100-year dairy community, traded in milk pails for chisels when Mexico’s market bottomed out. Now they make furniture.

    November 25
  • The Sanctuary at Chalma, México state, about 65 kilometers from Toluca, is Mexico's second-most visited pilgrimage site after the Guadalupe Basilica in Mexico City.

    Mexico’s second-biggest pilgrimage site has its own indigenous origin story

    Mexico’s annual Catholic pilgrimage from San Gregorio to Chalma is about faith and gratitude, but also the bonds formed in mutual suffering.

    November 11
  • Joseph Sorrentino agreed to help pick flowers for a Dia de Muertos altar in hopes of some good photos

    The quest for perfect Day of the Dead flowers isn’t always easy

    Mexico Life writer Joseph Sorrentino goes on an all-day quest for just the perfect kind of flowers to make a Mexican Day of the Dead altar.

    November 4
  • Erika Ponce, a former chemist, has made women into Catrinas for 10 years.

    Veteran Catrina makeup artist won’t let the virus stop her Day of the Dead

    For the last 10 years, Erika Ponce has been turning women into Catrinas but cancellation of the Mexico City parade has stopped her this year.

    October 29
  • Mexico City's Pilgrimage of the Concheros has roots dating to the Conquest

    Annual pilgrimage has ancient pre-Hispanic and Catholic roots

    Every second Sunday of November, Tlatelolco’s Plaza de Tres Culturas in Mexico City fills with thousands on a pilgrimage to Villa Guadalupe.

    October 28
  • Bakers at work on "dead bread."

    Bakers are preparing special bread that accompanies Day of the Dead

    Home kitchens, large bakeries are busy making pan de muerto in San Gregorio Atlapulco, a product that appears just once a year.

    October 21
  • The Puebla cook and the ingredients that will go into her own version of the dish.

    It takes Concepción Fernández two full days to prepare chiles en nogada

    The Puebla cook shares her method of making the traditional dish, typically served during September to celebrate Independence Day.

    October 7
  • Los Varones prepare to go to work cleaning the churchyard.

    Group of young men who serve Catholic Church has origins in Franciscan friars

    Los Varones dedicate a year or more to serving the Catholic Church. It is the only group of its kind in Mexico, and perhaps the world.

    September 30
  • Fredy the guide and Isaías at the bridge.

    The hair-raising ‘bridge of death’ in Chiapas: perhaps it was a test

    It was constructed of thin boards and narrow tree limbs, all held together with barbed wire, and spanned a raging river 25 feet below.

    September 23
  • Marta Álvarez and Luis Alvarado of Mole Don Luis.

    It’s a magical place and a beautiful pueblo. But the mole is the main attraction

    San Pedro Atocpan is a beautiful little pueblo with a lovely church and a pretty park. But that’s not why people visit.

    September 16
  • A cleansing ceremony that employs smoke from the copal is performed at the beginning of a velación.

    In San Gregorio, a velación kicks off all important fiestas

    The cool night air fills with the smoke and smell of burning copal while musicians herald a ritual held the night before big events.

    September 9
  • oaxaca bus

    Riding the buses can be an adventure in Oaxaca

    If you’re visiting Oaxaca chances are good you’ll often need to take a bus. This, as anyone who’s attempted it will tell you, is no mean feat.

    September 2
  • Eloise Serralde Nieto prepares a nopal tortilla.

    Prickly pear cactus doesn’t look like a tasty treat—but it is

    Nopal is an important food source for several reasons: it’s abundant and it’s inexpensive. And perhaps just as important, it’s tasty.

    August 26
  • In colectivos, there's generally room for one more.

    Oaxaca’s colectivos a great way to travel though not for the faint of heart

    Colectivos aren’t for the faint of heart but they provide good transportation for people on a tight budget.

    August 17
  • Berenice Muñoz found a new opportunity delivering vegetables

    Municipal authorities take belated steps to combat coronavirus

    They were necessary steps but the majority of people working in the market, who were just eking out a living before, are barely surviving now.

    August 10
  • Armando Hernández sells textiles whose designs have been in his family for generations.

    Traditional art and its conservation are the focus of Mexico City market

    Early on Saturday mornings Plaza Tenanitla, a tiny sliver of a park in the San Ángel neighborhood, is transformed into a bustling art market.

    July 29
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