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The specter of high inflation returns to haunt Latin America

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fruits and vegetables
Citibank expects inflation of 6.1% in Mexico this year.

While policymakers at the U.S. Federal Reserve conduct a drawn-out discussion over the pros and cons of starting to withdraw their multitrillion dollar pandemic stimulus, south of the border the debate is already over.

Inflation is back with a vengeance and Latin American central banks are raising rates, some aggressively.

Leading the pack is Brazil, where the newly independent central bank is struggling to prevent inflation from hitting double digits. “Brazil really had a very big inflation shock,” central bank Governor Roberto Campos Neto admitted on September 1. Days later figures were published showing annual headline inflation at a five-year high of 9.7% in August.

Brazil has already raised its reference interest rate four times since March to 5.25% and investors expect another increase of at least 1 percentage point this month, with more to follow.

Inflation causes particular alarm in Latin America because of the region’s long history of price instability, particularly in the 1970s and 1980s. Newly empowered central banks brought prices under control in most of the major economies over the past two decades but the region has never completely exorcised its inflationary demons.

interest rates

Venezuela had the world’s worst inflation of 5,500% in 2020 and prices in Argentina are rising more than 50% a year as the central bank prints money merrily to fund a deficit — another bad old Latin American habit.

In Mexico, core prices rose last month at their highest rate since 1999 and Citibank expects inflation for 2021 of 6.1%. Although the central bank never cut rates as aggressively during the pandemic as its peers, it has tightened policy twice this year and Citi expects two more rises before the year end, taking the policy rate to 5%.

The same story is repeated along the Andes. Annual inflation in Chile hit 4.8% in August, almost double February’s level. The central bank published a hawkish inflation report, signaling further tightening after doubling rates last month. In neighbouring Peru, inflation reached 4.95% in August and the central bank has started tightening while in Colombia prices rose 4.4% a year in August.

“The picture is getting uglier by the day with the inflationary pressures rapidly disseminating, , said Alberto Ramos, head of Latin America economics at Goldman Sachs. “It will likely take a significant amount of policy tightening to put the inflation genie back in the lamp.”

Latin America was hit harder by the combined health and economic impact of coronavirus than any other region. Rapidly rising interest rates now threaten to choke off a recovery which was already losing steam as government stimulus programs wound down and prices for commodity exports levelled off. JPMorgan expects that growth of 6.4% in the region this year will slow to just 2.4% next year.

“Central banks in the region don’t have a choice,” said Ernesto Revilla, head of Latin America economics at Citibank. “They have to tighten monetary policy despite a weak economy because they can’t allow inflation expectations to drift off. It’s the curse of emerging market central banks.”

inflation

Latin American policymakers are casting envious glances at the U.S., where the Fed has so far been able to continue its multi-trillion-dollar economic stimulus despite inflation hitting a 13-year high in July.

“The Fed can keep saying that inflation is transitory and there is no need to overreact,” said Claudio Irigoyen, head of Latin America economics at Bank of America. “Eventually it will pay a price but the reality is that the world pays in dollars … Latin American central banks don’t have the luxury of saying ‘this is a temporary change in inflation.’”

The rising threat of inflation comes ahead of an election cycle that will see new presidents elected in Chile, Colombia and Brazil over the next 13 months, while Peru and Ecuador chose new leaders earlier this year. Voters are venting their anger over pandemic missteps on incumbents and favouring radical outsiders, a dynamic which bodes ill for central banks.

The Bank of México’s rate rises have already triggered a political row with populist President López Obrador. “Although the Bank of México should be paying attention to inflation and growth … for a long time they have only been concerned with inflation,” he said at his morning news conference last month.

Irigoyen said he saw “a decent chance” of more radicalization in the upcoming election. “This will create a lot of pressure on currencies and a demand for high spending, which will put pressure on central banks,” he added. “In the U.S. there are more and more people claiming that the Fed should accommodate fiscal deficits. People in Latin America will say ‘if they can do it, why can’t we?’”

© 2021 The Financial Times Ltd. All rights reserved. Please do not copy and paste FT articles and redistribute by email or post to the web.

Statues, high water and unfirm ground: the week at AMLO’s press conferences

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Tuesday's mañanera brings out a full house of cabinet ministers.
Tuesday's mañanera brings out a full house of cabinet ministers.

President López Obrador had spent the weekend checking up on his flagship project, the Maya Train. The 1,525-kilometer railway is set to traverse the Yucatán Peninsula, an economically deprived region historically.

The massive infrastructural project could change the face of the southeast of the country, connecting far-flung ruins, indigenous towns and tourist hotspots. AMLO has said trains will be running before he leaves office in 2024.

On Monday, the man from Tabasco was back at the morning news conferences bright and early as ever.

Monday

It was a morbid start to Monday. A journalist asked AMLO how he would like to be remembered alongside the great presidents now lying in the political cemetery of history. The leader from Tepetitán said that wasn’t for him to answer: “I can’t talk about that, history will tell. I want to finish well, to continue serving the people of Mexico and when time goes by the people will judge us,” he said.

Ideological battles came to the fore later in the conference. Right wing Spanish politicians had been in town the previous week, and AMLO pointed to other foreign agents —in the time of Mussolini — who had brought propaganda to Mexico to smear the name of communism. “Mexicans, this is made in Italy, if we do not destroy communism, it will destroy our family, our moral ideas, our civilization, our longings for freedom, our homeland,” read one poster.

But the president made clear that the c-word wasn’t a term he’d shy away from. “What is communism? If to be a humanist is to be a communist, let them put me on the list,” he said.

Tuesday

“It’s raining a lot; yesterday we had floods in many states in the country,” opened the president. In better news, COVID point man Hugo López-Gatell confirmed a fourth week of reduction in cases and two thirds of adults vaccinated with a first shot. However, on the education front it was a mixed bag. Education Minister Delfina Gómez Álvarez skimmed through some unflattering figures: only just over 50% of students had returned to classes.

Another presidential raffle was set for September 15, the day of the El Grito independence celebration. AMLO brought on lottery official David Roberto Jacinto Rodríguez to detail the 22 prizes on offer, which include former narco properties and a box at the Azteca stadium.

Foreign Affairs Minister Marcelo Ebrard stepped up. He was off to the United States on Thursday, and expressed the urgency of a solution to the migrant crisis. Seven hundred and fifty migrants, many of them minors, had been rescued by authorities in three recent events, he said.

Defense Minister Sandoval reports on construction at Mexico City's new airport.
Defense Minister Sandoval reports on construction at Mexico City’s new airport.

Later in the conference, the president demonstrated his dexterity. A journalist posed the topic of the Supreme Court’s decision on abortion, which threatened the legal autonomy of Sinaloa and Coahuila. AMLO, the journalist said, had previously taken a pro life stance.

“These are very controversial, contentious issues and we do not want to encourage any confrontation … if it is already in the Supreme Court, then let it be resolved there … I’m not taking sides,” the president declared.

Wednesday

Tula was at the top of the agenda. The president extended his condolences to the 16 patients killed in a Hidalgo hospital after the building flooded, and then addressed the big movements the previous evening: a powerful earthquake had hit Acapulco, Guerrero, and shaken Mexico City hard.

Ana Elizabeth García Vilchis lined up the fake news. The Christopher Columbus statue — removed from its plinth on Reforma Avenue in October — had not been destroyed; hospitals had indeed received cash prizes from the last presidential raffle; hospital ventilators were all fully functional.

AMLO revived Columbus, and celebrated his fall: Mexico City Mayor Claudia Sheinbaum “has made the decision to put a sculpture of an indigenous woman on Reforma Avenue [in place of Columbus.] It seems very good … I celebrate it because it is a recognition of the deep cultural greatness Mexico, of pre-Hispanic Mexico,” he said, and added that Mexico’s heritage goes deeper than recent European developments: “In Teotihuacán there’s a huge pyramid … from the year A.D. 600, we’re talking about 900 years before the Spaniards arrived …”

Later in the conference, AMLO found himself in a mischievous mood. Visits from right-wing Spanish politicians were no problem, he said, and managed to mispronounce the name of their political party: “So, welcome to those from Fox — Vox.” The cynical observer might see a feigned reference to a former right-wing president of Mexico.

Thursday

The now defunct disaster relief fund Fonden was a “bag of money” for corrupt officials, AMLO said. Chiefs of Civil Protection, the Well Being Ministty, the navy, the defense ministry and transportation all took to the podium to detail how natural disasters were now being better tackled, including support for 35,000 people in Tula, Hidalgo.

Migration arrived at the conference: another 648 migrants had been rescued in Nuevo León to add to the 750 announced by Marcelo Ebrard on Tuesday.

“That’s what’s being discussed today in Washington. The United States has to take the decision to help poor countries, the Central American countries, and attend the causes of the migration phenomenon,” AMLO said. “Now it’s a new era … there hadn’t been any attention to the population which has to emigrate. There hadn’t been anything in years … it’s all coercive,” he added.

What of police abuse against migrants, posed a journalist. “We don’t have information about that,” AMLO replied.

Education Minister Gómez reported that schools are only at half capacity.
Education Minister Gómez reported that schools are only at half capacity.

The cause of the Tula hospital disaster was revealed. Dams had overflowed causing the roads to turn to rivers and the hospital could not be contacted, said Civil Protection chief Laura Velázquez.

A Spanish journalist returned to the conference. In his last appearance, he had said that apologies for historic wrongs were inappropriate, and that Mexico should be appreciative of what the European conquerors had brought. Now, polarization was on the menu. Words like fifí, to refer to wealthy snobs, and chairo, to describe idealistic young protesters, were having a negative impact, he said.

“Brotherhood,” the president replied, reigns in Mexico.

Friday

The Felipe Ángeles Airport, being built to serve Mexico City, was first on the Friday menu. The president had been irked by an article in the newspaper El Universal which claimed construction workers were being poorly treated. Engineers and the military top brass spoke to give their enthusiastic support to the project, which is more than two thirds complete.

Back to statues. A plinth stood empty at the President’s Causeway, located at Los Pinos, the official presidential residence where AMLO had chosen not to live. Would his effigy take its rightful place there after his term?

“I don’t want my name to be used to name any street, I don’t want statues, I don’t want my name to be used to name a school, a hospital. Absolutely nothing,” the president insisted.

On Thursday’s economic talks in Washington, one journalist reported U.S. Vice President Kamala Harris said there will be investment in Central America. The president called for a Panamerican future: “The union of our America or North America, Central America, South America, all of America, we have to unite,” he said.

A busy weekend was ahead for AMLO with travel to Sonora, Sinaloa, and Nayarit.

Mexico News Daily

Just peachy! End-of-summer harvest means easy, delicious desserts

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peaches
With peach season at its height in Mexico, now's the perfect time to whip up an easy fruit-filled dessert!

Yesterday I breezed into the grocery store intent on getting in and out quickly. I only needed a few things to try a recipe for what I thought was going to be this week’s column.

I headed for the produce section just to see what was available (you know how that is, right?) and suddenly my olfactory sensors registered something very, very wonderful. Something that shouldn’t have been there, that never is. The deliciously sweet aroma took me back to summer in New York and Pennsylvania, California and Oregon, when stone fruits fill farmers’ markets and grocery stores, and one somehow grows tired of eating them.

I let my nose lead me to the left, and there they were: peaches. Piles of them. An employee was dumping boxes and boxes of the fuzzy round fruits unceremoniously onto a display table. The smell was mouthwatering.

I asked where they were from, and he pointed out the two varieties, a more yellow, smoother and bigger peach from Chihuahua and a classic fuzzy, reddish-orange peach from California.

I was skeptical, remembering the countless times I’d fallen prey to the sweet smell of plums, peaches or nectarines in Mexico and finding them mealy, dry and flavorless. Dare I risk it once again?

Peach galette
A galette makes the perfect showcase for in-season peaches!

I did. And boy, am I glad!

Late August and early September are the height of peach season in Northern Mexico and California, which produces the most peaches of any American state. (Yes, more than Georgia!) Here in Mazatlán, the Mexican peaches were from Sonora, but they’re grown in Chihuahua, Zacatecas, Puebla and Veracruz too.

I’d actually wondered why peaches were included in the traditional chiles en nogada recipes, not realizing that the harvest came in at the end of summer. If you’re living in Mexico, now is the time to look for and buy them! Wanting the peaches of my past, I bought the California ones.

Native to China, peaches are in the rose family — hence the strong, sweet aroma. Cherries, apricots, plums and almonds, too, are all in the genus Prunus. Nectarines are actually fuzz-less, smooth-skinned peaches but are marketed separately as a completely different fruit. Peaches came to Mexico with the Spaniards, who brought pits and planted them.

After two days of ripening on the counter, my peaches were slightly soft to the touch and made my kitchen smell like summer memories. They were sweet and juicy, tender and delicious, and I went back to buy more. Yes, I’m grateful to have a year-round abundance of mangos, coconuts, papayas and pineapple in my Mexican life — but there’s just something really wonderful about a perfectly delicious peach.

Usually, I include an assortment of recipes for both sweet and savory dishes. This time, I want to encourage and enable you to enjoy these delicious fruits as the desserts they deserve to be.

Peach Galette

Don’t be intimidated — galette is just a fancy name for a free-form pie. Use the same method with other fruits, like apples, berries or mangos. For step-by-step photos of the process, go here. 

  • Pie dough for 1-crust pie
  • 4 large ripe peaches
  • ¼ cup tapioca or corn starch
  • ½ cup sugar
  • Pinch kosher salt
  • 1 large egg
  • 1 large egg yolk
  • 1 Tbsp. heavy cream or milk
  • ⅛ tsp. salt

Roll dough into a 14-inch round. Transfer to parchment-lined baking sheet, cover with plastic and refrigerate to chill dough, at least 2 hours or up to 24.

Wash peaches. (No need to peel). Cut into ½-inch slices. (Thicker slices cook slower without turning mushy.) In a medium bowl, measure out 3 cups of fruit. (Don’t use more.) Sprinkle starch over peaches; toss until well combined.

Preheat oven to 400 F. Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position. Arrange peaches in a ring in the center of chilled dough, tiling slices like dominoes and leaving about a 2-inch border of dough all around. Sprinkle sugar on top of peaches; finish with a pinch of salt.

peach galette dough
With a single ready-made pie crust, this is a snap to whip up.

With a sharp knife, cut a series of slits into the border of dough, each slit running from fruit to edge of the dough, spacing them about 5 inches apart.

Fold each segment of dough over peaches, tugging gently so the edge of each segment tightly overlaps the one that came before. Alternately, fold border of dough up over peaches, crimping like a big pie, leaving the fruit exposed in the center.

Whisk egg, egg yolk, cream or milk and salt in a small bowl. Brush over dough in a thin, even layer (including under each flap) to give crust a golden sheen and help bind pieces together.

Bake until pie is juicy, golden brown around the edges and bubbling in the center, 25–35 minutes.

Let cool 5 minutes, then slice into wedges and serve warm, garnished with whipped cream or vanilla ice cream.

Peach Upside-Down Cake   

  • ¼ pound unsalted butter, softened, plus more for greasing the pan
  • 3 large, ripe peaches
  • 1¼ cups sugar
  • 1 cup flour
  • ¾ tsp. baking powder
  • ¼ tsp. ground nutmeg
  • 3 eggs

Heat oven to 350 F. Grease a 9-inch cake pan. Line bottom of pan with parchment paper and butter that too. Pit peaches; cut into slices ½-inch thick. Arrange slices in a pattern on the bottom of the pan.

Combine ½ cup of sugar with ¼ cup of water in a saucepan. Cook over medium-high heat until mixture turns amber, 10–12 minutes.

Remove from heat immediately and pour evenly over the peaches.

In a medium bowl, sift flour, baking powder and nutmeg. Set aside.

In another bowl, beat together butter and remaining ¾ cup sugar. Beat in eggs one at a time, then stir in flour mixture. Spread batter evenly over the peaches and caramel.

peach upside down cake
This decadent upside-down cake uses fresh peaches and just six other basic ingredients.

Bake 30–35 minutes, until top is golden brown and cake is set. Remove from oven. Run a knife around the sides, then place a platter or plate on top and invert the cake onto the platter. Serve warm or cooled to room temperature.

Janet Blaser is the author of the best-selling book, Why We Left: An Anthology of American Women Expats, featured on CNBC and MarketWatch. She has lived in Mexico since 2006. You can find her on Instagram at @thejanetblaser.

COVID roundup: accumulated case numbers approaching 3.5 million

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These eight youths were the first to be vaccinated — by court order — in Nuevo León.

Mexico’s known tally of coronavirus cases approached 3.5 million on Friday with 14,233 new cases reported, while the official COVID-19 death toll rose by 699 to 266,849.

The accumulated tally now stands at just over 3.49 million, the 15th highest total in the world.

Mexico’s death toll, which like the case tally is considered a significant undercount, is the fourth highest in the world after those of the United States, Brazil and India.

On a per capita basis, Mexico has the 19th highest COVID death rate with 208 fatalities per 100,000 people, according to data compiled by Johns Hopkins University.

There are currently 100,643 estimated active cases in Mexico, a 1% increase compared to Thursday.

Tabasco continues to lead the country for active cases with more than 250 per 100,000 people, while Colima ranks second with exactly 250.

With more than 18,000 active cases, Mexico City easily has the largest current outbreak in the country but ranks third on a per capita basis with about 200 infections per 100,000 people.

In other COVID-19 news:

• Two hundred and fifty-nine days, or about 8 1/2 months, after the first shot was given on December 24, the total number of vaccine doses administered in Mexico passed 90 million on Thursday.

More than 90.3 million jabs have now been administered, according to the most recent Health Ministry data, after 865,661 shots were given Thursday.

More than 37.5 million Mexican adults are fully vaccinated while another 22.4 million have had their first dose of a two-shot vaccine.

Coronavirus cases and deaths in Mexico as reported by day.
Coronavirus cases and deaths in Mexico as reported by day. milenio

• There are 3,159 COVID-19 patients in hospitals in the metropolitan area of Mexico City, city official Eduardo Clark said Friday. The figure is 645, or 17%, lower than a week ago.

Mexico City will remain medium risk yellow on the federal stoplight map next week. Mayor Claudia Sheinbaum said the return to in-person classes in the capital and the further reopening of the economy hasn’t caused an increase in new cases.

She also said the government is in talks with the organizers of the Corona Capital music festival and Formula 1 Grand Prix with a view to those events going ahead with spectators. Both are scheduled to take place later this year.

• At the municipal level, the Mexico City borough of Álvaro Obregón had the highest number of active cases in the country as of Thursday with 3,486. Iztapalapa, another Mexico City borough, ranked second with 3,140 followed by Centro (Villahermosa), Tabasco, with 3,107; Gustavo A. Madero, Mexico City, 1,897; and Puebla city, 1,765.

Ranking sixth to 10th with more than 1,200 active cases each were Mérida, Yucatán; Tlalpan, Mexico City; Querétaro city; Monterrey, Nuevo León; and Guadalajara, Jalisco.

• More than 700 people who work in the lower house of federal Congress have tested positive for COVID-19 since the start of the pandemic and 39 have died. The newspaper El Universal reported that 115 deputies and 594 employees had been infected up until August 31.

The official COVID-19 death toll for the Chamber of Deputies is 39, a figure that includes four deputies who succumbed to the disease.

The “Chamber clusters” have occurred despite the investment of millions of pesos on initiatives designed to mitigate the spread of the virus in Mexico’s halls of power.

• Eight children were vaccinated in Nuevo León on Thursday after their parents obtained injunctions that ordered they be given shots. The jabs were given in San Nicolás de los Garza, a municipality in the metropolitan area of Monterrey.

State Health Minister Manuel de la O Cazavos said that all children aged over 12 who have obtained court orders will be vaccinated whether they suffer from an underlying health condition or not.

• At least seven people were injured on Friday when three buses that were part of a convoy taking Nuevo León residents to be vaccinated in the United States were involved in an accident on the Monterrey-Nuevo Laredo highway. Three people were reportedly taken to hospital.

Intended for the employees of manufacturing businesses that export products to the U.S., the cross-border vaccination initiative, which began last month, is the brainchild of Nuevo León governor-elect Samuel García.

With reports from El Universal, El Economista, Milenio, Aristegui Noticias and La Jornada 

México state landslide buries at least 3 homes; 4 people are missing

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Slide damage in Tlalnepantla Friday afternoon.
Slide damage in Tlalnepantla Friday afternoon.

Four people are missing after a landslide buried three homes on a hillside Tlalnepantla, México state, Friday afternoon.

Enormous rocks and earth became dislodged from the Cerro de Chiquihuite, probably a result of recent heavy rainfall, some officials said.

Heavy equipment and trucks were on the scene shortly after to remove debris and assist emergency personnel in the search for survivors.

Three days ago, at least one resident of the area noticed six waterfalls had formed on the hill during heavy rains. And hours later, there was a 7.1-magnitude earthquake.

The Cerro de Chiquihuite (Chiquihuite Hill) is located on the boundary of Tlalnepantla and the Mexico City borough of Gustavo A. Madero.

A huge boulder blocks a road in Tlalnepantla.
A huge boulder blocks a road in Tlalnepantla.

With reports from Excélsior and Milenio

There were fewer international tourists in July but they spent more

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Foreign visitors spent more this year.
Foreign visitors spent more this year.

International tourist numbers were below pre-pandemic levels in July but foreign visitors’ combined expenditure was above 2019 levels, official data shows.

Just over 3.38 million international visitors came to Mexico in July, according to the national statistics agency Inegi, a 19% decline compared to the 4.16 million foreign tourists in the same month of 2019.

But with a total outlay of US $2.12 billion, their combined spending was 6.5% higher than July 2019, when international tourists spent $1.99 billion.

Inegi said that tourists who arrived by air in July spent an average of $1,150 each while in the country, an increase of 15% compared to 2019.

Compared to July 2020 – when international travel remained deeply depressed by the coronavirus pandemic – international tourist numbers were up 143% in the seventh month of this year. Combined expenditure in July 2021 was up a whopping 389%.

Counting international tourists and international excursionists (cross border daytrippers and cruise ship passengers), a total of 5.33 million foreign visitors came to Mexico in July, a 35% decline compared to the same month in 2019 but an 87% increase compared to a year earlier.

Foreign visitors’ total spending in July this year was $2.22 billion, a 2.3% increase compared to 2019 and a 350% surge over the seventh month of last year. International excursionists spent a combined $107.2 million, or just 5% of the total.

Mexico News Daily 

As marijuana market disappears, crime groups turn to alcohol, logging, extortion

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Marijuana 'barely profitable,' says cartel operative.
Marijuana 'barely profitable,' says cartel operative.

Mexico remains the main international provider of marijuana for the United States, but this has greatly diminished since 2013, forcing certain criminal groups to adapt and look for other funds.

As more U.S. states move towards legalization, “Mexican marijuana has largely been supplanted by domestic-produced marijuana,” according to the U.S. Drug Enforcement Administration’s (DEA) 2020 National Drug Threat Assessment.

The report shows marijuana seizures along the southwest U.S.-Mexico border declined by more than 81% between 2013 and 2020, suggesting Mexican crime groups have significantly scaled down their marijuana trafficking operations.

A high-ranking Sinaloa Cartel operative in Sonora state told InSight Crime that the marijuana business is “barely profitable now.”

“I only traffic marijuana to pay some of my people in the organization. I’m paying them with kilograms [of marijuana] that they manage to smuggle and get paid for, but it’s really coming to a point where it’s no longer a viable business,” he said.

The border state of Chihuahua is Mexico’s second-largest marijuana producer behind Sinaloa, accounting for 20% of production nationwide, according to a 2016 report by a Autonomous University of Madrid (UAM) researcher analyzing drug cultivation. And much of this comes from the Sierra Tarahumara, a vast network of canyons and mountains.

Two of Mexico’s main criminal organizations operate in the Sierra Tarahumara: the Sinaloa Cartel and Juárez Cartel through its armed wing, known as La Línea.

Over the past 10 years, fighting between these two groups has had a constant ebb and flow.

But both of these criminal heavyweights are having to adjust to many U.S. states decriminalizing or legalizing marijuana. To do so, they have monopolized other commercial activities like alcohol sales and logging, while also extorting the region’s local farmworkers to keep profits alive.

Alcohol monopoly in Chihuahua

Starting from La Junta highway at the entrance to the Sierra Tarahumara, only “authorized” stores can sell alcohol. Criminal organizations have threatened national chains like Oxxo to stop selling alcohol or risk facing retaliation, according to residents, business owners and state officials speaking anonymously for fear of reprisal.

For the most part, according to the cartel operative interviewed by InSight Crime, the alcohol monopoly is in the hands of the Sinaloa Cartel, specifically Noriel Portillo, alias “El Chueco.”

“Only authorized stores can sell alcohol. That way, there is no competition, and all of those earnings go to the organization,” he said.

This started as a direct consequence of the depreciation of marijuana prices, according to the operative. The municipalities under this rule stretch all the way from Bocoyna, Guachochi, Batopilas, Urique, and out to Guadalupe y Calvo.

He added that all alcohol distribution trucks are “stopped at the highways connecting to the Sierra and asked to go back. We maintain our own distribution, and businesses have to buy only from us.”

The cartel is buying massive quantities of alcohol in major cities like Cuauhtémoc or the capital, Chihuahua, and then transporting those products by truck to several municipalities inside the Sierra Tarahumara. They are the ones granting authorization to sell and distribute all sorts of alcohol without any legal permits.

The operative said they are not forcing everyone to sell alcohol, but those who want to must have permission from the cartel.

Alcohol regulatory authorities have virtually no presence in the Sierra Tarahumara, according to the cartel operative.

Most products go for two or three Mexican pesos (roughly $0.10) above the average retail price, which InSight Crime corroborated in several stores. And some restaurants aren’t selling any alcohol out of fear of negotiating with crime groups.

“We had to go with their deal, otherwise we would have to stop selling and close our business,” said a women from a local store in Guachochi.

Timber trade thrives as marijuana falls

San Juanito, a small wooded town at the beginning of the Sierra Tarahumara and the epicenter of fighting between the Sinaloa and Juárez cartels, used to be known as the “San Juanito forest” for its beautiful, thick tree cover. But after years of relentless logging — both legal and illegal — locals now joke and call it the “San Juanito Valley.”

Driving through it, the devastation is no secret: the areas surrounding the main highway are barren, with nothing but wood stumps for miles.

For almost six years, both the Sinaloa and Juárez cartels have relied heavily on the logging industry. The Sierra Tarahumara has historically been a large source of lumber for all of Mexico. With around half of its 16.5 million hectares forested by pine and oak trees, according to Community Technical Consulting, a non-profit organization defending human and land rights in the Sierra Tarahumara, this area provides around 10 million square meters of timber that is sold in bulk to construction companies or for use in building furniture.

With the heavy cartel presence, it’s become almost impossible to know how much of the wood taken into the sawmills is legitimate or tainted by organized crime, either illegally produced by such groups or by legal sawmills forced to pay a tax in order to operate.

People around San Juanito and the neighboring town of Creel were very hesitant to speak out loud about illegal logging. A local artisan told InSight Crime that the illegal timber trade has “everybody’s fingerprints on it.”

“Authorities, politicians, narcos and entire families are in the business,” he said. “But this is something we don’t discuss.”

Extorting local farmworkers

During the summer months, hundreds of men leave the cover of the Sierra Tarahumara to travel northbound to major cities like Cuauhtémoc or Chihuahua to work on apple, tomato, chile, pecan and bean farms. Big companies have established massive operations around these two cities and hire their workforce from all over the state.

But more recently, men leaving the sierra to work have been required to notify cartel operatives in charge of monitoring who leaves and where they go.

A local indigenous farmer returning from an apple tree farm, who spoke with InSight Crime under the condition of anonymity for fear of retaliation, said that crime groups are now demanding a percentage of their earnings on their way back home.

“Sometimes they are the ones who transport us to the farms and back, and they say the illegal toll is payment for the ride,” he said.

It’s not clear why the amount charged varies, but local workers said it ranges from a 5-10% cut of their earnings for a whole season, which amounts to roughly $800 for two full months of work.

Most locals interviewed pointed to the Sinaloa Cartel as the organization behind this operation, but La Línea’s involvement couldn’t be dismissed.

State authorities said they were unaware of this new extortion trend.

Reprinted from InSight Crime, a foundation dedicated to the study of organized crime.

New book tells you where to find 25 unforgettable hikes in western Mexico

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El Manto, Nayarit
Chapter 10 of Outdoors in Western Mexico 3 by John and Susy Pint introduces you to El Manto, a 300-meter-long natural water park in Nayarit.

Our upcoming book, Outdoors in Western Mexico 3, is a collection of writing about 25 sites where you can escape the hustle and bustle of the big city and enjoy the rich biodiversity and geodiversity of western Mexico.

This 207-page tome was published this year by Tente Editorial of Monterrey, Nuevo León, the third in a series. It will be presented to the public in Ajijic, Jalisco, in September and in Guadalajara in October. The series’ origins go back to 1985, when my wife Susana and I decided to settle in Pinar de la Venta, Jalisco, a woodsy community perched atop hills a mile high on the edge of the sprawling Primavera Forest, just west of Guadalajara.

We had arrived after having lived in Saudi Arabia for four years, where we’d often spent the weekend underground, exploring “caves beneath the dunes.”

Naturally, we were anxious to see what kind of caves we might find in Jalisco and neighboring states, so one of the first things we did was to write a letter to the editor of Mexico Desconocido magazine, asking for information on the caving club nearest Guadalajara. Sad to say, our inquiry revealed that there was no caving organization anywhere in western Mexico — so we decided to start our own.

We offered courses in espeleologia, discovered plenty of interested people and started combing the hills for caves.

Huilotán Ecopark, Jalisco
You’ll find a waterfall and a jungle, complete with macaws, at Huilotán Ecopark, located only 25 kilometers north of Guadalajara.

Those caves, however, sometimes turned out to be located in the most godforsaken places you could imagine, perhaps at the end of one of those classic hair-raising mountain roads with a sheer wall on one side and a thousand-foot drop on the other.

Very often the huge, gorgeous cavern we had been told about (“Sí, señor, that cueva goes all the way through la montaña and comes out the other side!”) would turn out to be a miserable little hole penetrating the mountain a grand distance of two meters.

But on the way to or from that hole-in-the-wall, we would frequently stumble upon spectacular waterfalls, delightful hot springs, pristine beaches, mysterious ruins, tangled jungles, gorgeous canyons and stately forests, places well known to the local people but to no one else.

We began to write these places up and publish our stories in the pages of what was then called The Guadalajara Colony Reporter. Eventually, these writings ended up in the first Outdoors book, published by Editorial Ágata in 1998. Of course, we kept on hunting for caves, which continued to lead us to the discovery of more and more natural sites as fascinating as those we already knew.

We kept finding more and more botanical, biological and geological diversity in the places we were visiting, and we were intrigued. “How could there be so many extraordinary places exhibiting so much variety?” we wondered.

Most of what I have been calling western Mexico fits inside a circle 500 kilometers wide with Guadalajara in the middle, so my big question was: what makes this area so special?

The Parangueo Crater in Guanajuato
The Parangueo Crater is one of seven volcanic craters in Guanajuato which supposedly lie in the same configuration as the stars of the Big Dipper.

In time, I learned that within this circle, all five of Mexico’s ecosystems converge. A tapatío (someone from Guadalajara) can head north on Monday and find one ecosystem, go south on Tuesday and end up in another and so on.

I decided to call this confluence of multiple ecosystems a Magic Circle. How many cities in the world lie at the center of a Magic Circle?

Not many!

So it was easy to find enough extraordinary sites to fill volumes 1 and 2 of Outdoors in Western Mexico, and now here comes a third collection. Like the previous volumes, this one presents a microcosm of the rich variety of outdoor sites inside the Magic Circle. Here’s a preview of just a few:

The Geysers of Los Patitos River: In the very first chapter, you’ll find a park full of geysers and hot springs. While the local people always knew there was something special bubbling up in and around Río de Los Patitos (Little Ducks River), few people in Guadalajara — except for an occasional intrepid botanist — suspected that there was a “mini-Yellowstone” just over an hour’s drive from the big city.

At Parque Ecologico Los Hervores you can run out of your tent on a cold winter’s night, jump into a hot pool that’s at just the temperature you fancy and gaze up through billows of steam at the deepest, most star-studded sky you could ever hope to see.

Sabinos River at La Cañada, Jalisco
The stately Montezuma cypresses of the Sabinos River at La Cañada, only eight kilometers north of Lake Chapala.

Parangueo Crater, Guanajuato: Contrast this with what awaits you in Chapter 13. You walk through a 400-meter-long, pitch-black tunnel and emerge at what first seems to be the North Pole: your eyes see ice and snow — but you don’t feel cold! Welcome to Parangueo Crater. Once upon a time, there was an alkaline lake here, but today it’s an otherworldly, shimmering white desert, like hiking across a giant bowl filled with crusty baking soda.

Petroglyphs of Altavista, Nayarit: If all this seems too exotic, turn to Chapter 23 and take a walk at Altavista, near the Pacific coast. The trail leads you through great boulders covered with petroglyphs engraved there over 2,000 years ago by the Tecoxquines (Throat-cutters), whose favorite sport was decapitating prisoners captured during tribal skirmishes. Your reward at the end of your walk? A dip in La Pila del Rey, the King’s Bathtub, a pool of crystal-clear water surrounded by picturesque natural columns of basalt rock.

With this third volume, the grand total of destinations we have described comes to 90. Add to these the 10 sites in my book A Guide to West Mexico’s Guachimontones and Surrounding Area and you now have a total of 100 great places to visit in western Mexico — enough to keep you busy on weekends for the next two years. Enjoy!

• The book Outdoors in Western Mexico 3/Al Aire Libre en las Cercanías de Guadalajara 3 by John and Susy Pint is written both in English and in Spanish and will be available in softcover (250 pesos) or as a hardback (350 pesos) by Tente Editorial. The book will be presented in Ajijic, Jalisco, on September 23 at 2 p.m. in the garden of the Lake Chapala Society. There will also be a Guadalajara book launch on October 16 at the Foro Infantil of Parque Agua Azul at 1 p.m. Click here for more details and updates.

The writer has lived near Guadalajara, Jalisco, for 31 years and is the author of A Guide to West Mexico’s Guachimontones and Surrounding Area and co-author of Outdoors in Western Mexico. More of his writing can be found on his website.

The King’s Bathtub at Petroglyphs of Altavista
The King’s Bathtub awaits you at the end of the 400-meter-long trail through the Petroglyphs of Altavista.

 

ghost town of El Amparo, Jalisco
In Chapter 3 of Outdoors in Western Mexico 3, you’ll learn all about the ghost town of El Amparo, once one of Mexico’s most successful silver mines.

 

Potrero de Mulas, Jalisco
Discover the serenity of Potrero de Mulas, described in Chapter 22. You only have to do 30 river crossings to get there!

 

Outdoors in Western Mexico 3 book by John & Susy Pint
Outdoors in Western Mexico 3 describes — in Spanish and English — 25 places near Guadalajara where you can hike, picnic, and, in some cases, camp.

 

John and Susy Pint in Dahna desert
Authors Susy and John Pint inside hot, steamy Mossy Cave, located beneath Saudi Arabia’s Dahna Desert.

Parents discover a human leg in coffin of their newborn child

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hospital
The hospital refused to accept responsibility.

The grief of the parents of a newborn child who died in a Oaxaca hospital was exacerbated when they received an amputated leg in place of the body of their deceased son.

An 11-day-old baby boy who was born after 34 weeks’ gestation died from a congenital disorder in the Mexican Social Security Institute (IMSS) Rural Clinic in Huajuapan de León last Friday.

The baby’s father and staff from a funeral home went to the Mixtec region hospital the next day to collect the infant’s body but left the facility with a coffin containing a human leg.

According to sources cited by the newspaper El Universal, the parents didn’t become aware of the mix-up until they arrived at Tacache de Mina, their hometown.

“The family noticed that blood was dripping from the coffin and checked inside; it was then they discovered it was a human leg,” El Universal said.

The parents subsequently returned to the hospital where they were able to collect their son’s body.

The family referred the case to a local prosecutor’s office, which launched an investigation that concluded that an IMSS employee was responsible for the mix-up.

But IMSS authorities in Oaxaca rejected the claim that a hospital employee was responsible, telling El Universal that the baby’s father was at fault because he took the coffin containing the human leg without checking its contents.

Pressed by the newspaper as to what part of its corpse delivery protocols had failed, IMSS simply insisted that the baby’s father was to blame.

“The man had all the documentation concerning the [deceased] newborn. He just got the wrong coffin. Instead of verifying which one really corresponded to his baby, he took another one that wasn’t [the right one]. It was he who made the mistake, not IMSS personnel,” the institute said.

“But no one from the hospital realized? Who supervises the release of bodies?” probed El Universal.

“There are authorized personnel in charge of that … but he [the father] was negligent and took the [wrong] coffin,” IMSS responded, adding that the father had admitted he was to blame.

The Oaxaca Attorney General’s Office confirmed that an investigation had been opened but said the IMSS employee who was allegedly responsible for the mix-up wouldn’t face charges because the apparent error was rectified.

“… A mistake was made but at a criminal level there is no responsibility because the body was subsequently delivered,” it said.

The macabre mix-up occurred two weeks after a premature baby was mistakenly pronounced dead and taken to a morgue at an IMSS hospital in Coahuila. The baby was rescued from the morgue but died four days later.

With reports from El Universal 

Court rules that protection of life from conception is unconstitutional

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Mexico's Supreme Court
Mexico's Supreme Court issues its second abortion-related decision in as many days.

Two days after effectively decriminalizing abortion across Mexico, the Supreme Court (SCJN) ruled on Thursday that the protection of life from the time of conception is unconstitutional.

In response to a challenge to abortion restrictions in Sinaloa, the court ruled that state laws that protect life from conception are unconstitutional because state legislatures don’t have the authority to establish the time at which human life begins. The SCJN also determined that such laws violate women’s reproductive rights.

“It’s not the job of any state legislature or this plenary session [of the SCJN] to establish the origin of human life, especially in the absence of scientific consensus,” said Justice Alfredo Gutiérrez Ortiz Mena.

“It’s clear that the embryo and fetus must be recognized as constitutionally relevant beings and must be protected in accordance with that dignity and character. However, their protection can’t compete fully and unconditionally with that of born people,” he said.

The Supreme Court justices agreed that the sole purpose of laws in 21 states that protect life from the moment of conception is to inhibit abortion, even in cases of rape or when the mother’s life is endangered.

Two justices opined that state legislatures don’t have the authority to legislate on human rights issues.

The court’s ruling reinforces its view that abortion is not a crime. The SCJN ruled on Tuesday that the criminalization of abortion is unconstitutional, paving the wave for the legalization of early term abortions in the 28 states where the practice is illegal.

Outside cases of rape and those in which an expectant mother’s life is endangered, abortion during the first 12 weeks of pregnancy is currently only legal in Mexico City, Oaxaca, Hidalgo and Veracruz.

With reports from El Universal