Wednesday, May 28, 2025

Haunting new film tells story of traditional music of Laguna region

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Fidel Elizalde, one of the protagonists in A Morir a los Desiertos.
Fidel Elizalde, one of the protagonists in A Morir a los Desiertos.

A highlight of this year’s Morelia Film Festival, which opens tomorrow in the Michoacán capital, will be Roma, the Alfonso Cuarón film that wowed critics at the Venice Film Festival earlier this year, winning its top award — the Golden Lion.

But another film, rather less known than Roma, will also be one to see.

The haunting and sensorial Mexican documentary A Morir a los Desiertos by Marta Ferrer presents a brief look into the lives of Antonio Valles, Fidel Elizalde and Genaro Chavarría, Los Cardencheros de Sapioriz, three elderly singers in a tiny town in northern Mexico.

The men are three of the last remaining canto cardenche singers, a traditional music that hails from the Laguna region, which incorporates parts of Durango, Coahuila, Zacatecas and Chihuahua states.

The name of a cactus spine (cardenche) that hurts more coming out than going in seems appropriate for a music that invades your ears and gets hold of your mind. Suddenly you can’t remember why you are sad, but you feel your heart breaking. Hearing it for the first time is like a cold trickle of water slipping down your spine.

Somewhere between lined-out hymnody singing of Appalachia and early American folk music, canto cardenche is characterized by whining, drawn-out melodies and pregnant pauses sung by a collection of voices (usually three) with zero instrumentation and just a little local moonshine (sotol) to lubricate the throat.

The songs originated with Mexican peasants from the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th century who worked essentially as slaves on large local cotton plantations and mines. The music was a balm to the heavy burden and extreme poverty suffered by the workers and their families.

The songs are replete with love, loss and the suffering of daily life. There is fear that when the last members of the generation of singers dies, the songs and the singing style will be lost forever.

Ferrer’s film follows these singers and tells not only the story of the music but also the individual grief and sorrow of each man and the slow decline of the town where they live. The landscape is desolate, in a community with few families and even fewer opportunities, an ambiance Ferrer describes as “atmospheric and sensorial.”

The film captures the dreamy solitary moments of the small desert town — a teenager on the train tracks at dusk, hot afternoon sun filtering through an open window — punctuated by the reminiscing conversations of longtime residents, and songs, so strong and clear they are like glass breaking.

“I remember the sensation of listening to the Cardencheros for the first time, or the first time that the passing Flor de Jimulco train echoed through my eyes and my heart,” says Ferrer. “I learned so much from them about the cathartic joy of expressing something so profound without overthinking it.”

Yo ya me voy a morir a los desiertos

A Morir a Los Desiertos, which has already won awards in Mexico and abroad (including best documentary at the Toulouse Latin America Film Festival and the Los Cabos’ Art Kingdom award), takes its names from one of the canto cardenche songs:

Yo ya me voy a morir a los desiertos,

(I’m off to die in the desert),

Me voy dirigido a esa estrella marinera,

(I’m following this sailor’s star),

Solo en pensar que ando lejos de mi tierra . . . (Just thinking of how far away I am from home . . .)

Nomás que me acuerdo me dan ganas de llorar.

(Just remembering, makes me want to cry).

The heartache in these songs will make the viewer want to cry too.

The importance of a film like this is not only the beauty that it exposes to the world, but also to serve as a living record of something that may disappear within our lifetime. Viewers aren’t left completely hopeless, there is a small light at the end of the tunnel for canto cardenche, but it does give you the sensation of having watched something rare and endangered. After six years of intense work, A Morir a los Desiertos will have its public debut in Morelia.

The festival will run from Sunday, October 21 to Sunday October 28 and feature the best of the best of Mexican filmmaking of 2018. As well as Roma festival-goers will see Museo, the new film by Mexican actor and director Gael García Bernal.

The 15-year-old festival was founded to support Mexican films and filmmakers and has become one of Latin America’s most important. The four awards categories for 2018 are Mexican short film, Mexican documentary, Mexican feature flm, and a special section for filmmakers that live in the festival’s hosting state, Michoacán.

A Morir a los Desiertos will be playing on Thursday, Friday and Saturday. If you are ready to hear and see something achingly beautiful, it should be on your list.

Lydia Carey is a freelance writer based in Mexico City.

Floods trigger emergency in 13 Veracruz municipalities

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Flooding in Veracruz yesterday.
Flooding in Veracruz yesterday.

Veracruz has declared a state of emergency in 13 municipalities after heavy rain flooded homes and roads in the southern part of the state.

The Coatzacoalcos river overflowed its banks in the municipalities of Hidalgotitlán and Jesús Carranza, while the Tecolapan river overflowed in Saltabarranca.

The waters of the Jaltepec river, a tributary of the Coatzacoalcos, continue to rise and could soon overflow, affecting towns in the municipalities of Jesús Carranza, Hidalgotitlán, Texistepec, Jáltipan, Cosoleacaque and Minatitlán.

In the municipalities of San Andrés and Santiago Tuxtla, hundreds of families lost everything when their homes flooded, while owners of restaurants and stores in Catemaco reported severe losses, also due to flooding.

State and local authorities continue to work to repair the damage and offer relief to victims.

State Civil Protection officials warned that if rains continue the emergency declaration could well expand to five more municipalities.

With the official declaration of emergency, the affected municipalities have access to funds from a state disaster relief fund.

Source: Milenio (sp)

University suspends classes in Acapulco after kidnapping attempts

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Closed due to kidnapping attempts.
Closed due to kidnapping attempts.

Several schools of the Autonomous University of Guerrero (UAGro) have suspended classes after at least six kidnapping attempts targeting female students.

The chancelor of the university said yesterday that armed individuals attempted to kidnap a female student from the school of medicine “but fortunately the car they were traveling in broke down and she was able to get away” but was beaten during the ordeal.

Javier Saldaña Almazán added that a similar attempt was made against another student from the same school, along with two more from the law school, one from nursing and another from a university facility in the La Laja neighborhood.

“For that reason, measures were immediately taken,” he continued.

Some professors charged that assaults by organized crime elements are ongoing around university facilities.

Source: Milenio (sp)

Border standoff: thousands of migrants camped out on Guatemala side

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Migrants on the bridge at the Guatemala border yesterday.
Migrants on the bridge at the Guatemala border yesterday.

Thousands of Central American migrants camped out last night on the Guatemalan side of Mexico’s southern border as a standoff continues following a clash with Federal Police yesterday.

Many slept on the bridge that crosses the Suchiate River, connecting Guatemala to the state of Chiapas.

Young children and babies are among the huge caravan of mainly Honduran migrants who were exhausted and hungry after a long journey through Guatemala. Many on the crowded and rubbish-strewn bridge pleaded with police to allow them to enter.

“Please, it is night. Let us pass,” Alba Luz Girón, a Honduran mother of three fleeing violence in Honduras begged officers.

“We want them to give us permission to go to Mexico,” her five-year-old son Ramón said. “We wouldn’t stay.”

But early today most members of the migrant caravan, which according to some estimates is made up of as many as 4,000 people, were still stuck in Guatemala.

The huge caravan burst through a Guatemalan border fence yesterday and moved onto the bridge before being met by a wall of Mexican police with riot shields.

As they tried to advance, the migrants shouted, “we’re not criminals, we’re international workers!”

Around 50 migrants managed to break through the police defenses before officers deployed pepper spray, forcing the rest to retreat.

The police response has been described as one of the most aggressive actions ever taken by Mexico on its southern border.

“Every time there’s a [migrant] caravan there are police sent to the southern border . . . but we’ve never seen anything as dramatic as we’re seeing today,” said Eunice Rendon, coordinator of migrant advocacy group Agenda Migrante.

“This has everything to do with [U.S. President] Trump,” she added.

At least 20 people were injured in the confrontation, including several migrants, four police officers and members of the media.

With large metal barriers blocking their path, some migrants jumped off the border bridge into the Suchiate River to try to cross on rubber tire rafts. Others threw rocks at the police.

Using a megaphone, Federal Police commissioner Manelich Castilla urged the migrants to be calm and promised they would be able to enter Mexico but must do so in an orderly manner.

Police and immigration officials later began letting small groups of migrants enter through a gate if they wished to apply for refugee status from the National Immigration Institute (INM).

Once those allowed in had filed claims, they were taken to shelters in Tapachula where they must wait for their applications to be reviewed, a process that can take up to 10 days.

Only a very small number of the migrants are believed to have visas to enter Mexico. Honduran and Guatemalan authorities said late yesterday they were mobilizing to return migrants to their country of origin.

Some, such as 45-year-old Honduran construction worker José Ramón Rodríguez who is traveling with family members, have decided to give up their pursuit to reach the United States.

“Tomorrow we go home,” he said, his companions nodding in agreement.

Others, however, are determined to continue their journey despite the uncertainty.

“. . . I’ll fight, I’ll try [to cross] again,” said Hilda Rosa who is traveling with her four teenage children.

Asked by the news agency Reuters why she had left Honduras, the Tegucigalpa native replied: “You know why: no work, violence.”

United States Secretary of State Mike Pompeo traveled to Mexico City yesterday, where he met with top government officials including President Peña Nieto and Foreign Secretary Luis Videgaray after the clash had occurred.

“We are quickly reaching a point which appears to be a moment of crisis,” Pompeo said in an appearance with Videgaray, referring to the flow of Central American migrants.

He accused the caravan of using women and children as shields in their attempt to enter Mexico.

Pompeo told Mexican officials, “the way that you handle this is your sovereign decision” but he and President Trump have made it clear that they expect Mexico to stop the caravan.

Trump posted a video to his Twitter account Thursday of Federal Police arriving at the airport in Tapachula, writing “Thank you Mexico, we look forward to working with you!”

He also threatened to deploy the military and close the United States’ southern border.

Videgaray said yesterday that the government would enforce Mexico’s immigration laws “in a humanitarian form, thinking first of the interest of the migrant.”

Earlier this week, the government warned migrants traveling to the United States via Mexico that if they enter the country illegally they will be detained and deported.

Earlier this year, Mexican authorities gave transit documents to migrants traveling as part of another caravan and immigration advocates are saying that doing so again would be the reasonable and humane response.

The United Nations Refugee Agency (UNHCR) has agreed to a request to help attend to the migrants but it is unclear exactly what role it will play.

In an address to the nation last night, President Peña Nieto said that a large group of migrants had “tried to enter Mexican territory irregularly, attacking and even hurting some elements of the Federal Police.”

“Mexico does not permit and will not permit entry into its territory in an irregular fashion, much less in a violent fashion,” he said.

The migrant caravan originated in the notoriously violent Honduran city of San Pedro Sula last week.

Its numbers increased as it advanced as more Hondurans as well as Salvadorans and Guatemalans joined the group.

Source: Milenio (sp), CBS News (en), Reuters (en), The Washington Post (en) 

New mall in Mérida is one of the largest in Mexico

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Mérida's new shopping center is one of Mexico's biggest.
Mérida's new shopping center.

A massive new shopping center opens this weekend in Mérida, Yucatán.

The Harbor Mérida, located in the north of the Yucatán capital, is one of the five biggest megamalls in Mexico.

The complex was built over a period of two years by property developers Thor Urbana and Inmobilia with an investment of 1.4 billion pesos (US $72.6 million).

Gran Chapur, a Yucatán-based department store, is the centerpiece of the new mall. The company invested more than 280 million pesos (US $14.5 million) to secure its place in the exclusive development.

The shopping center features elements that are reminiscent of Yucatán’s famous cenotes, or sinkholes, which are popular for swimming. It was designed by Boston-based Elkus Manfredi Architects.

Among the other stores in The Harbor Mérida are fashion chains Forever 21, Under Armour, Kipling and Sunglass Hut. A range of restaurants and cinema chain Cinépolis provide dining and entertainment options.

The mall will create around 800 direct and 960 indirect jobs.

Developer Thor Urbana, which will operate the center, is also behind a 6-billion-peso shopping and lifestyle complex that will open in Metepec, México state, next month.

Source: El Financiero (sp) 

Fitch downgrade on Pemex is ‘absurd,’ says new energy secretary

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The new energy secretary, Rocío Nahle.
The new energy secretary, Rocío Nahle.

A Fitch Ratings downgrade in its outlook on debt held by the state oil company Pemex has been called “absurd” by Mexico’s next energy secretary.

Fitch said yesterday that “the outlook revision to negative from stable reflects the increased uncertainty about Pemex’s future business strategy coupled with the company’s deteriorating standalone credit profile.”

Later in the day, Rocío Nahle said, “I don’t understand what data Fitch has when it is saying that there is uncertainty in Pemex’s business strategy, it’s absurd.”

Nahle pointed to the future investments in Pemex already announced by president-elect López Obrador as justification for her “absurd” assessment.

López Obrador said in July that his government will build a new US $8 billion oil refinery in Tabasco and revamp the six already in operation as part of its strategy to boost crude oil production.

Nahle, a petrochemical engineer by profession, added that the incoming administration would work to have the outlook revised.

“I respect them [Fitch] but I don’t agree with them, we’re going to get to work. We have to start producing and building,” she said.

Fitch’s downward revision on Pemex debt was cited by analysts as one factor that contributed to the weakening of the peso yesterday to its lowest level in more than a month.

The currency fell by as much as 1% in mid-session trading to 19.34 pesos to the US dollar before recovering slightly to 19.23.

Uncertainty surrounding the future of the new Mexico City International Airport (NAICM) was cited as another factor in the peso’s decline.

Citizens will have the opportunity to vote on whether the current project should continue or whether it should be scrapped in favor of adapting the Santa Lucía Air Force Base for commercial aviation as well as upgrading the existing Mexico City and Toluca airports.

“The issue of the Mexico City airport referendum is starting to receive a little bit more attention, which introduces a little bit of uncertainty. So, that might have driven some underperformance in the peso,” said Kenneth Lam, a strategist at Citigroup.

With regard to Fitch’s Pemex assessment, CI Banco analyst James Salazar said the company’s “finances should continue to be handled with great caution so as not to cause additional imbalances that will increase its debt.”

Rating agency Moody’s warned this week that a plan to stop exporting oil poses a threat to Pemex’s finances because its income would be limited to pesos whereas most of its debt is in US dollars and other hard currencies.

Halting oil exports could cost the new government income of up to 2% of gross domestic product (GDP).

Source: El Financiero (sp), Reuters (en) 

New labor secretary sees ‘titanic’ task ahead to improve workers’ conditions

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Incoming labor secretary Alcalde.
Incoming labor secretary Alcalde.

The incoming federal government faces a “titanic” task to improve the rights and conditions of Mexican workers, says the future labor secretary.

But Luisa María Alcalde, a 31-year-old lawyer who will be the youngest member of president-elect López Obrador’s cabinet, also believes that six years is enough time to “make a profound change” and “rescue the country.”

Mexicans work longer hours for less pay than citizens of any other OECD member country, according to statistics from the intergovernmental economic organization. Mexico also has high rates of forced and child labor.

“The entire situation that we are facing in the labor market and, in general, is titanic, in terms of poverty, inequality and violence that are totally linked to the labor market,” Alcalde told the news agency Reuters.

“[The task] is titanic but there are also enormous possibilities.”

As part of the new government’s plan to improve the quality of life for millions of Mexicans, Alcalde said that the soon-to-be ruling Morena party, which already has a congressional majority, will present Congress with secondary legislation that will enable the labor reform approved at the start of 2017 to be enacted.

“We hope to present it soon, in the coming weeks [in order to] guarantee that the representation of workers is authentic, so that there is true social dialogue,” she said.

The reform will prevent employers from signing so-called “protection contracts” with unions behind workers’ backs, with money often exchanging hands.

“It doesn’t matter which union, which employer or which company it is, it will be a general rule that will have to be respected,” Alcalde said.

New laws will also seek to eliminate the common union practice of appointing leaders to long-term roles via non-existent elections or opaque processes.

Members of the Mexican Petroleum Workers’ Union made history this week when they cast secret ballots to elect union leaders. But critics labeled the process a sham.

Under the new laws, workers, in theory, will be able to elect their leaders freely and democratically through a secret vote.

However, powerful unions close to the ruling Institutional Revolutionary Party (PRI) are likely to resist the change.

Alcalde also reiterated her pledge to work towards increasing the minimum wage and doubling it in the north of the country.

The current daily minimum wage is 88.36 pesos (US $4.50), seven pesos below the threshold set by the federal government for well-being.

“No man or woman . . . can live on the minimum wage and that is something that we cannot continue to support,” the future labor secretary said.

Source: Reuters (sp) 

Something is different this year at Cabo San Lucas’s big fishing tournament

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Bob Bisbee, founder of Bisbee's Black and Blue fishing tournament in Cabo San Lucas, died in June.
Bob Bisbee, founder of Bisbee's Black and Blue fishing tournament in Cabo San Lucas, died in June.

The tournament buzz has been building for weeks on the sunny streets of Cabo San Lucas. Participating teams are talking tactics. Charter captains are deciding how much to hike up their prices. Everyone else is waiting to see huge marlin at the first day’s weigh-in. The Bisbee Black and Blue has come around again.

We’re talking, of course, about the annual Bisbee’s Black & Blue Marlin Fishing Tournament. The competition has been running for almost 40 years now. In that time, it has become synonymous with big boats, big fish, and big, big prizes.

Last year, 120 teams and over 800 anglers took part in this billfishing bonanza. At the end of three days of intense fishing, the winners took home prizes to the tune of $3,000,000 – and that wasn’t even close to the competition’s record. Small wonder the event’s known as “the world’s richest fishing tournament!”

But something’s different this year. The marinas are packed and the stakes are as high as ever. But one man is conspicuously missing from the whole affair. Bob Bisbee Sr., founder of this “Superbowl of Sportfishing,” sadly passed away earlier this year at the age of 85. His passing was mourned by sportfishermen from around the world, as well as his wife and children, who continue to run the tournament series.

Bob Bisbee was a legend who helped build Cabo’s fishing scene – and arguably the town itself – into what it is now.

With three different events over the course of the year and sponsors as varied as hotel chains, tackle brands and the Mexican government, it’s hard to believe that it all started as a simple wager.

Bob had been visiting Baja California Sur since the 60s. He knew just how good the bite was down here, but not many others did. Bob ran a fueling station and tackle shop in Newport Beach at the time. He filled up boats planning to make the journey south, so spreading the word about the area’s big game bite was good for business. He could have no idea how good, though.

In 1981, Bob and some friends got the idea to try out a tournament with golf-style Calcutta sweepstakes rather than the traditional grand prize. He went down to Cabo with five other boats and the first Bisbee tournament was born. Everyone had a great time, especially Bob himself, who won the tournament and the $10,000 in prize money.

The next year, the numbers doubled. The year after that, they doubled again. The word was spreading, people were having fun, and Bob was selling a ton of fuel – things were looking good.

But Bisbee’s tournament dreams were nearly crushed before they’d even got going. In 1983, a hurricane wiped out dozens of boats which were idling along the Baja coastline for lack of proper moorage. American insurers vetoed all trips to Mexico unless the boats could be safely moored when they were down there. Bob’s Californian fishing buddies couldn’t come to Baja anymore and it looked like the tournament was over.

Bob wasn’t about to let all the fun come to an end so quickly, though. Industrious as ever, he anchored moorings all around Cabo and used his connections in the tackle and fuel industries to spread the word: it was safe to come south. The competition went ahead the next year without a hitch and the rest is history.

If you’ve ever been to Cabo during tournament season, you’ll find it hard to believe the competition’s humble beginnings. Every year, the sea comes alive as 100 boats rocket offshore. The opening ceremony and closing party are legendary. The daily weigh-ins are home to some of the biggest fish you’re ever likely to see. In fact, unreleased marlin have to be 300 pounds just to qualify!

The attendance isn’t the only thing that’s increased – the money involved these days is staggering. The original $10,000 of prize money would barely be enough for a buy-in now. Base entry is $5,000 and that’s just the tip of the iceberg. Because of the way the tournament works, you opt in for as many different daily jackpots as you want. These range from $1,500 to $60,000 on top of the entry cost. If you want a chance to win it all, you’re looking at $131,500 before you even charter a boat!

Sound a little too much for you? You’ll be glad to hear that there’s more than one Bisbee tournament to choose from. The Black and Blue is the most famous by far, but since 2000 you can also take part in the East Cape and Los Cabos Offshores.

How did it all get this big? Sponsorship and clever marketing. Two of Bob’s kids, Wayne and Trisha Bisbee, took over the tournament in 1995. Since then, international sponsors and glitzy promotion have taken the series into the clouds. You have to wonder whether the original six boats would be able to enter today.

It might be too much to say that the Bisbee’s series made Cabo what it is today. The town was a tourist hotspot long before the charter scene got big. But while Cabo was already known for beaches and resorts, it was Bisbee who solidified it as the “Marlin Capital of the World.” If not for Bob, we might see a lot fewer boats in downtown Cabo. And that’s not the only effect the family’s had on the town.

Bob Bisbee Sr. was always clear that he wanted to give something back to Baja’s locals. Even in the competition’s opening years, he made sure that the fish went to people who needed it. The event is way too big for a simple line at the weigh-in station these days, but the fish still goes to a good cause.

Last year, over 11,000 pounds of fish came ashore during the Bisbee Black and Blue. Working with local charities, it was all donated to retirement homes and orphanages in the area.

As well as sharing the catch, the tournaments do their bit to encourage fishing with local crews. If you’re short the $5,000 it costs to enter, you can enroll for free by agreeing to fish with the locals. The Bisbee Cabo Charter Hook-Up pays the base buy-in for the first 40 boats to sign up with one of their approved Cabo-based teams.

The most notable example of the family stepping in was in response to the hurricane that hit Baja in 2014. It caused power and water outages all over the peninsula and over $1 billion worth of damage. It also hit the tourism sector hard.

Once again, this wasn’t going to stop the Bisbees. The tournament had weathered one storm, it could weather another. With a lot of hard work, the event went ahead as scheduled. It was credited with kick-starting Cabo’s much-needed tourism that year.

The competitions themselves are just one part of the Bisbee empire. In 2011, the family set up the Bisbee’s Fish & Wildlife Conservation Fund in an effort to get more ambitious projects under way. Since then, the fund has started and co-run several projects both in Baja and around the world.

The non-profit really came into the spotlight in 2014. It set up a hurricane relief fund and seeded $250,000 to get the ball rolling. Working with a crisis assessment team, it set up “tent cities” and secured housing for displaced people. The fund also made sure the storm didn’t wreck local charter captains out of the industry. Part of the money went to helping independently-owned charters rebuild, keeping people in work and stopping big fleets from taking over.

An emphasis on sustainability has made its way into the rules of the Bisbee Black and Blue. Keeping undersized fish gets you penalty points and releases are worth as much as weigh-ins pound for pound. It seems like the family’s doing more with their money than buying bigger boats.

The question on everyone’s mind at the moment is “where do things go from here?” Sure, Bob hasn’t been directly involved in the tournaments for years, but will his passing have an effect on how things are run? We hope it won’t. All the glamor and big sponsorship hasn’t stopped the family from giving back to Cabo’s residents. Quite the opposite, it’s let them impact the local area in a much bigger way.

This year, we mark the death of a real sportfishing legend. Bob Bisbee Sr. was a pioneer of Baja’s big game bite. Everyone who had the chance to meet him will miss his enthusiasm and his wit. His legacy lives on in the epic catches brought in every October in Cabo San Lucas, as well as the good work of the Bisbee Conservation Fund. We look forward to many more years of world-class angling and extend our deepest condolences to Bob’s wife and six children.

This is an edited version of an article that originally appeared on FishingBooker.

An interview with Ilse Hable, Guadalajara’s popular plein air painter

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The artist painting at a spot overlooking Guachimontones archaeological ruins.
The artist painting at a spot overlooking Guachimontones archaeological ruins.

The most recent works of Austrian-born artist Ilse Hable are currently on display at the Jalisco Chamber of Commerce in Guadalajara.

The exhibit of 27 oil paintings is entitled ¡Aguas! which may appear to mean “waters” in Spanish, but is also an expression used to grab someone’s attention: “Watch out!”

In this case, our attention is called to the latest works of one of Guadalajara’s great artists.

“What is it that attracted you to Mexico?” I asked the painter.

“Mexico was my first great adventure when I was a young person,” she told me. “I had landed a well-paid job as a fashion designer in the capital and stayed there for 10 years. During that time I got to know quite a bit of the country and fell in love with it. Now, more than 35 years later, and dedicating myself to painting fine art, I still love Mexico and visit it frequently.

“There are so many things I appreciate here, I have a hard time deciding how to start: I have found Mexicans to be very friendly and caring. They appreciate any effort made by foreigners to learn their language; they are happy to invite you into their home, share their food with you and show you their culture. And what culture!

“As a painter I appreciate beauty. Mexico is a huge country and I don’t pretend to know it all, but I have spent time painting inland and near the Pacific and Caribbean coasts and the landscapes are gorgeous. Volcanoes, lakes, ochre hills and agaves, tropical vegetation, beautiful oceans, colorfully dressed locals, a feast for the eye of an artist! I have made many paintings in Mexico and have also had a number of exhibitions here.”

“What’s your favorite place in Mexico?” I asked Ilse.

“My favorite state is Oaxaca, rich in pre-Hispanic history and exuberant in color and folklore, like the Guelaguetza, a yearly festival of dance and thanksgiving. I also admire Oaxaca’s richness in arts and crafts, second to no other state of Mexico.

“Just think of the famous alebrijes, miniature fantasy creatures, carved and painted in great detail and with bright colors. Especially beautiful are the handmade textiles, like the blouses and huipiles and also the rugs, all produced by the native indigenous people there.”

Regarding her ongoing exposition at the Chamber of Commerce, Ilse commented: “¡Aguas! is what you would shout when a big wave is coming, and here I’m thinking, ‘watch out for water because it may not be around for long!’ So this theme is calling attention to water and in these paintings you will see it in all its forms, as a liquid, as steam and vapor and as ice in my painting of a glacier, which I made after a trip to Alaska.

“Apart from the theme of water, I think this collection of paintings shouts to the heavens that nature is beautiful. Here I am celebrating the beauty of water and I invite everyone to come take a look!”

Ilse Hable was born in Vienna, Austria, where she studied art and received a master’s degree from the Akademie fuer Angewandte Kunst. She earned several prizes, including first prize for the 1970 World Exhibition in Osaka, Japan. During the next 10 years she dedicated herself to a career as a fashion designer in Europe and eventually came to Mexico where she helped to bring about a revolution in haute couture. She also sang in a Mexico City choir where she met her husband, Andrew Taylor.

In 1983 she moved to California and began dedicating her time exclusively to the fine arts. She has studied with the well-known painters Sebastian Capella, John Asaro, Wolf Kahn, Albert Handell and Bert Silverman.

Hable presented her first one-person show in La Jolla, California, in 1987 and has continued exhibiting her work in 17 individual shows and 39 group shows. Her work has been exhibited in several museum shows and in commercial galleries in the U.S. and Mexico.

Ilse Hable prefers painting on location rather than in a studio. She enjoys discovering outdoor beauty in little-known sites off the beaten track, such as the crater of Tequila Volcano or the hidden-away hot springs of Tamara Canyon.

On numerous occasions I have accompanied Ilse and her husband to truly remote places reachable only by hiking along rough paths that hardly deserve the name “trails.” Finally, dripping with sweat, we stand before an awe-inspiring, feathery waterfall pouring into a pool of clear, clean water, just begging us to jump in.

With red and blue dragonflies dancing in the air all around us, Ilse opens her backpack and extracts items which she miraculously turns into an easel. It’s the beginning of another of her wonderful creations!

“Plein air painting is always fresher than studio painting and is what I love to do,” she says enthusiastically. “I love the challenge of trying to capture the beauty of a striking scene on a small canvas. As my teacher Sebastian Capella always said, ‘If you can express it with one stroke, don’t use two.’”

Ilse Hable’s ¡Aguas! paintings will be on display until November 5 at the Jalisco Cámara de Comercio (tel 38 80 90 90), located in Guadalajara at 4095 Avenida Vallarta. The building is open Monday through Friday from 8:00am to 6:00pm and Saturday from 8:00am to 1:00pm. Admission is free.

I suggest you check out the photo galleries and blog on Ilse Hable’s web page.

[soliloquy id="63555"]

The writer has lived near Guadalajara, Jalisco, for more than 30 years and is the author of A Guide to West Mexico’s Guachimontones and Surrounding Area and co-author of Outdoors in Western Mexico. More of his writing can be found on his website.

Moody’s warns AMLO’s oil export strategy threatens Pemex finances

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AMLO's petroleum export plans could pose some problems.
AMLO's petroleum export plans could pose some problems.

The incoming federal government’s proposal to stop exporting oil poses a threat to the finances of state oil company Pemex and Mexico’s credit rating, the financial services company Moody’s has warned.

Senior analyst Nymia Almeida said Pemex would be more exposed to volatility in the exchange rate because its income would be limited to the sale of gasoline in pesos whereas 87% of its debt — US $104 billion as of last June — is in dollars and other hard currencies.

“This new plan could also force Pemex to import crude, a situation that would add even more to the exchange-rate and cash-flow risks,” she added.

Importing crude, in turn, would weaken the oil company’s credit rating with the extent of the damage dependent on the quantity of oil it needs to import, Almeida said.

In addition, the risk of Pemex’s cash flows declining over the next three years is high due to the incoming government’s intention to not raise fuel prices.

Almeida said that while the federal government has reduced its reliance on petroleum income since the implementation of its 2013 tax reform, a loss of income from oil exports could add considerably to Mexico’s deficit.

Stopping oil shipments would cost the new government income worth almost 2% of gross domestic product (GDP).

President-elect López Obrador said in Tabasco last weekend that Mexico would stop exporting oil in the medium term in favor of meeting domestic demand.

“We’re not going to sell crude oil abroad in the medium term, we want to process all our raw material,” he said.

“We’re going to extract only what is needed for our internal consumption.”

López Obrador, who will take office on December 1, has pledged to “rescue” the energy sector by building a new refinery in Tabasco, revamping the six existing ones and upgrading power stations operated by the state-owned Federal Electricity Commission (CFE).

Mexico’s oil production has been in decline for over a decade but newly-discovered reserves with up to 180 million barrels of crude oil are expected to help boost production.

López Obrador has pledged to increase crude oil production to 2.6 million barrels per day (bpd) by the end of his six-year term, up from 1.82 million bpd in August.

Last month, the president-elect assured private energy executives that their oil contracts will not be canceled if they meet existing terms and a new round of oil auctions scheduled for February looks set to go ahead.

Source: El Financiero (sp)