Monday, June 30, 2025

Car-van crash on highway near Tulum kills 6, including 5 Argentine tourists

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Emergency crews worked to rescue the occupants of both vehicles. Five of the 7 occupants of the SUV involved in the crash were killed. (Protección Civil de Solidaridad)

A frightful accident on a rain-slickened highway in the state of Quintana Roo on Sunday afternoon resulted in the death of five tourists from Argentina and a Mexican driver.

The tourists were among seven people riding in a private Suzuki SUV when it collided with the Toyota van on a section of Highway 307 about halfway between Tulum and Playa del Carmen.

The injured victims were airlifted to hospital, where one, the driver of the van, later succumbed to his injuries. (X)

While initial witness reports indicated the van lost control (driving at excessive speed) and collided with the SUV, as of Monday afternoon, a report in El Financiero newspaper said that the SUV struck the van, which was parked at the side of the road.

Wet pavement from the rain was cited by the Quintana Roo prosecutor’s office as an initial cause, though a further announcement is pending. 

The driver of the van was airlifted to a local hospital, but either died along the way or shortly after arriving.

The Argentines were reportedly staying in different hotels and some were with their families, who were waiting for them to return from their outing.

Of the seven people in the SUV, five were killed in the collision, which occurred around 1 p.m. The survivors were a woman in the center back seat and a male in the front passenger seat.

President Andrés Manuel López Obrador addressed the accident at his Monday morning press conference, noting that he had communicated with Quintana Roo Governor Mara Lezama Espinosa and that the families of the dead had been notified.

“Let the people of Argentina know that we are caring for those who unfortunately lost their lives,” he said. “We are seeking to provide all the facilities to family members and we are helping.” 

Shortly after the accident, news outlets and internet users began sharing videos and images of the accident, some of them grisly.

On Monday, Quintana Roo’s secretary of government, Cristina Torres, reminded the media that the dissemination of videos and photographs of victims violates their rights to privacy.

“That accident was very ugly, very ugly,” AMLO added.

The names of the victims were released Monday afternoon: Maximiliano Laviano, Hernán Ezequiel Sibella, Vanesa Paola Silva, Gerónimo Amengual and Nahuel López were the Argentine nationals, and Freddy Omar Quijano was the Mexican driver who was killed.

The bodies of the Argentines will be returned to their home country, although no timeline for this has been provided.

Scores of police and emergency services responded to the accident, forcing the complete closure of a large section of highway, about 30 km south of Playa del Carmen, for several hours. Firemen used equipment known as “the jaws of life” to free trapped occupants.

Quintana Roo’s State Attorney General (FGE) said an investigation had begun into the cause of the crash. “Experts from different specialties are working on the analysis of the evidence collected,” it said in a statement.

On Saturday, state officials had posted heavy to very heavy rain warnings for the area. Advisories were issued that highway drivers use caution.

With reports from La Jornada, Sin Embargo, Infobae and El Financiero

When (and where) to see baby sea turtles hatch in Mexico

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A secluded beach in the Nayarit Riviera is home to a turtle conservation project that releases hundreds of baby turtles each night - and you can visit. (Ruth Ramírez)

For an up-close-and-personal sea turtle experience — just you, the turtles and a few biologists — you can’t beat the aptly-named Playa de las Tortugas, located 21 kilometers south of San Blas, in the state of Nayarit. On top of that, driving time to this little-known beach is only four hours and one minute from Guadalajara — two minutes on a bad day.

This sandy beach can only be reached by driving through an elegant compound called Playa de las Tortugas Villas, where you can rent a mansion or stay at a five-star hotel.

Las Tortugas is a virgin beach located approximately one hour from state capital Tepic. (Tortugas Villa)

But if you’re in the mood for roughing it, you can wind your way through this development all the way to the beach, which is quite rustic and covered with coconut palms. It also features good waves for surfing and an estuary with long mangrove tunnels, perfect for kayaking.

After setting up my tent under a low coconut palm, I took a dip in the ocean, whose waters in mid-December were neither hot nor cold, but the perfect temperature for swimming.

After that, I wandered south along the beach and came to a big sign reading  “WHAT DO I DO IF I SEE A TURTLE COME OUT OF THE OCEAN?” 

The basic message was: keep back and don’t interfere. Just beyond the sign was an open gate and beyond the gate a handsome tower with a palapa on top of it.

A turtle egg garden

A model of a turtle nest. (Ruth Ramírez)

Soon, I came upon a sign welcoming me to Campamento Platanitos Center for the Protection and Conservation of the Sea Turtle. I was now inside a clean, pleasant-looking compound with numerous buildings and two fenced-off areas that appeared to be gardens — until I looked carefully.

Neat rows of little signs described not vegetables, but clutches of turtle eggs buried there: date of arrival, number of eggs, etc. And then in the “garden,” I found not a farmer, but a biologist. This was Ruth Ramírez, who had studied biology at the University of Guadalajara.

“What did your garden produce today?” I asked her. Her eyes lit up. “Come follow me,” she said, walking over to a small museum.

100 baby turtles trying to escape

Here, on the floor in the middle of the room, was a sort of giant plastic bathtub and inside it were at least 100 hopelessly cute little turtles, their shells only about 1 inch in diameter. Ninety percent of them were making little scuffling noises as they tried to climb the walls of the bathtub. The other ten percent weren’t moving.

The egg nursery, where the turtles are able to hatch in safety. (John Pint)

“Are they dead?” I asked. “No,” Ramírez said, “just resting. In a minute they’ll be back at it, trying to reach the ocean.”

“How many days have they been in this tub?” I asked.

“What? All of these were born today and tonight we’re going to release them!” Ramírez explained to me that the job of the camp’s staff is to patrol the beach every night, collecting the turtle eggs that have been laid here and bringing them to the incubation corrals.

Threatened by extinction

“Typically,” the biologist said, “one of these turtles could produce between 60 and 180 eggs. Ramírez is referring to the olive ridley sea turtle, which is the turtle that most often comes up on these beaches in Nayarit.”

A turtle watchtower on Las Tortugas beach. (Platanitos Turtle Camp)

Ramírez explained to me that there are seven species of sea turtles in the world. One is endemic to Australia and all the others can be found in the Americas. And, she added, “All those other six species are officially listed as threatened by extinction globally.”

Ramírez led me to a display all about the olive ridley turtle. “They eat algae, sea grass, crabs and snails and when they are eight or ten years old, with a shell measuring some 70 centimeters in width, they return to the same beach where they were born to lay their eggs. Only the females come on to land, not the males.”

Ramírez says the high season for olive ridleys at Playa de las Tortugas is from May to August, “When the whole beach is full of turtles.” Now, in the winter, only one or two show up every night to lay their eggs.

The amazing belly-button recorder

In front of a model of a turtle nest, Ramírez explained that when a mother turtle arrives on the beach, she hunts for just the right place to lay her eggs, depending on information from a kind of sensor organ on the flat bottom of her shell. Then, with her back legs, she digs a tube-like hole and lays her eggs inside.

The camp offers an opportunity for the whole family to learn about wildlife conservation. (Platanitos Turtle Camp)

Incubation time varies by species. For the olive ridley sea turtle, it is 45 days from when the eggs are laid until they are hatched. At this moment, we were interrupted by visitors who, like me, were enchanted by the tubful of tiny turtles.“Can we pick them up?” they asked.

“Yes,” replied the biologist, “but be very careful not to touch the underside of their shell, called the plastron. Right in the middle of it, they have a belly button: what remains of their umbilical cord. This could provide them with nutrition for as long as ten days, keeping them alive as they enter the ocean.” Amazingly, this also acts as a highly sophisticated sensor recording all kinds of information as the baby turtle runs from its nest to the sea, sufficient information to enable it to return to the very same beach eight years later to lay its own eggs.

Bienvenidos, visitors and volunteers

The camp’s staff of four liberate turtles every evening at 5 p.m., making sure that predators such as raccoons, skunks, crabs and birds have no chance to end their run. Visitors who want to help with this are welcome to, and the same goes for the nightly beach patrols.

In spite of all their efforts, laments Ramírez, “the odds are against these little creatures. Only one in a thousand will live to return to our beach eight years from now.”

To see it all for yourself, pack up your tent, coconut machete and kayak and ask Google Maps to take you to Platanitos Turtle Camp, Nayarit.

The writer has lived near Guadalajara, Jalisco, for more than 30 years and is the author of A Guide to West Mexico’s Guachimontones and Surrounding Area and co-author of Outdoors in Western Mexico. More of his writing can be found on his website.

‘March for our Democracy’ draws tens of thousands of protesters across Mexico

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A crowd of people wearing pink and white and waving a Mexican flag fill a plaza, with Mexico's National Palace in the background
Thousands gathered in Mexico City's Zócalo during Sunday's "March for Democracy." (Adolfo Vladimir / Cuartoscuro.com)

Citizens took to the streets of Mexico City and numerous other cities across Mexico on Sunday to participate in pro-democracy protests amid what they see as an attack on the nation’s democratic institutions by President Andrés Manuel López Obrador.

At least 90,000 people gathered in Mexico City’s central square, the Zócalo, to listen to an address by former National Electoral Institute (INE) president Lorenzo Córdova at the conclusion of the “March for our Democracy” in the capital, while similar rallies drew thousands more in cities including Guadalajara, Monterrey, Puebla, Querétaro and Hermosillo.

The organizers of the protests — civil society groups that support or are affiliated with Mexico’s main opposition parties — asserted that over 700,000 people descended on the Zócalo, a figure more than seven times higher than the official count by authorities in the capital. Many of the participants wore pink and white — which feature in the INE logo — to demonstrate their support for the electoral authority, which López Obrador sought to overhaul with a sweeping electoral reform package that was struck down by the Supreme Court last year.

The demonstrations came 3 1/2 months ahead of Mexico’s presidential and congressional elections and two weeks after the president submitted 20 constitutional reform proposals to the Congress, including ones aimed at eliminating a number of autonomous government agencies, allowing citizens to directly elect Supreme Court justices and other judges and significantly changing Mexico’s electoral system.

In his more than five years as president, López Obrador has been a frequent and ardent critic of various autonomous government agencies, which he considers superfluous and claims were “created to legalize corruption.” He has also been highly critical of the judiciary, which he asserts is at the service of criminals and a “greedy minority” of citizens, and the INE, which he believes is bloated and which — in an earlier iteration — he accused of facilitating fraud in the 2006 and 2012 presidential elections he lost. His latest electoral reform proposal aims, among other things, to reduce the number of INE councilors and to rename the body the National Institute of Elections and Consultations.

Some protesters in the Zócalo on Sunday said they weren’t specifically demonstrating against the president, but rather wanted to show their support for the nation’s democratic institutions and advocate for clean and fair elections. But anti-AMLO chants such as “narco-presidente,” a reference to recently aired accusations that his 2006 presidential campaign received drug money, and “fuera López” — effectively a directive to “leave office now” — were a feature of the rally.

Former INE director Lorenzo Córdova gave an impassioned speech at the Mexico City march.

In his speech in the Zócalo, Córdova didn’t explicitly mention the president or the ruling Morena party, but nevertheless made it clear that he holds them responsible for the “risks” he believes Mexico’s democracy currently faces.

“Today we are demonstrating in the streets of our country due to the risks that democracy faces, amid attempts to damage the conditions that allow us to have free and authentic elections and to dismantle the institutions that protect us from abuses,” he said.

Córdova said that the nation’s democratic institutes can only be “touched” for the purpose of “improving them.”

If the aim is to “dismantle them, tear them apart or capture them, we say loud and clear — of course they cannot be touched,” he said.

Democracy in Mexico — which for all intents and purposes is only 24 years old — “didn’t fall from above, it’s the result of the struggles of many citizens,” said Córdova, who claimed that Mexico is confronting a political “project of authoritarian regression.”

A Mexico City resident identified only as Tatiana told the EFE news agency that she decided to take part in Sunday’s march “to protest against the abuse and co-option of institutions that took a lot of work to build as a counterweight to power.”

“I believe [López Obrador] has destroyed the country and polarized the people,” she said.

The square in front of the Aguascalientes city cathedral, filled with people waving Mexican flags
Pink-clad protesters gathered in many major Mexican cities, including Aguascalientes, shown here. (Rodrigo Gómez/X)

Maritza Gómez told EFE that she believed that the government would interfere in the upcoming elections in the lead-up to, and on, election day on June 2.

“The government won’t allow [people] to vote against it. It’s going all out to try to stop [people voting for the opposition]. I’m scared, there’s going to be theft of ballot boxes and … [outside Mexico City] the narcos won’t allow people to vote or will tell them to vote for Morena,” she said.

Juan Carlos Grandío of México state expressed widespread dissatisfaction with López Obrador’s presidency.

“He promised us a lot of things that he didn’t carry out. … I voted for him, but I realized that he deceived us,” he told EFE.

“… I would ask him to stop allying himself with the narcos and not to interfere in the elections, but there are a thousand other things to improve like security or the health system,” Grandío said.

Speaking to the El País newspaper, Natalia Carrillo said, “We want our votes to count and to live in a true democracy.”

“This is not against the president, but it’s true that the line between opposing the government and defending our rights is becoming increasingly blurry,” she said.

Gerardo Villadelangel, another protester, told El País that “the defense of democracy has become an opposition struggle, especially when we’re facing a dictatorship under construction.”

López Obrador is constitutionally barred from seeking re-election, but some analysts see the presentation of his constitutional reform proposals as a means to set the agenda for his likely successor, Morena party candidate Claudia Sheinbaum, and thus continue to have a bearing on politics after his six-year term ends.

As protesters marched on the Zócalo, Morena party presidential candidate Claudia Sheinbaum officially registered her candidacy at the INE offices, and had some sharp words for those who participated in the march after having allegedly “promoted electoral fraud” in the past. (Claudia Sheinbaum / X)

Most of the proposals will likely be rejected by the Congress before the election as they require the support of two-thirds of lawmakers to pass. Consequently, Sheinbaum — who has expressed support for the proposals and is pledging to continue the “fourth transformation” of Mexico initiated by her political mentor — would be left to navigate their path through Congress, provided she wins on June 2, as poll results currently indicate she will.

Xóchitl Gálvez, presidential candidate for the three-party Strength and Heart for Mexico opposition alliance, didn’t attend any of the demonstrations held around the country on Sunday, but expressed her support for them in a video posted to social media.

“Today I want to celebrate the civic energy and citizen force that was on display this morning in various cities of our country and in other parts of the world,” she said.

“It fills me with hope and optimism to see this enormous participation of Mexican women and men. Democracy is exercised at the ballot box but also in the streets and public squares. While Mexico has citizens who go out to demonstrate to defend their democracy, who exercise their right to the free expression of ideas, there won’t be an authoritarian temptation that can send our institutions to hell,” Gálvez said.

After attending INE offices to officially register her candidacy, Sheinbaum on Sunday said it was “important” to “point out the insincerity and hypocrisy of those who speak about or march for democracy” when they previously “promoted electoral frauds” and ignored “vote-buying.”

That message was presumably directed at politicians affiliated with the Institutional Revolutionary Party (PRI) and National Action Party (PAN) who participated in the protests. The PRI was a dominant and authoritarian power in Mexico for most of the 20th century, while the PAN was in power for the first 12 years of this century before the PRI returned to office under former president Enrique Peña Nieto in 2012. They are aiming to return to power by banding together to form the alliance that is backing Gálvez. The Democratic Revolution Party, or PRD, is the third member of the coalition.

Sheinbaum, who was part of López Obrador’s government when he was mayor of Mexico City in the early 2000s, said that Morena, or the so-called “fourth transformation” movement “defends democracy”  and “the active participation of society” whereas opposition parties only feign to do so.

“It’s pertinent to mention that our constitutional change proposals seek to strengthen the electoral and participatory democracy for which the people of Mexico have always fought,” she added.

With reports from Animal Político, El País, EFE, Reforma and El Economista 

It was a white, wintry weekend in parts of central and northern Mexico

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Cold front 35 brought a blanket of snow to central Mexico last weekend. (Margarito Pérez Retana/Cuartoscuro)

Parts of Mexico City, the México state and Michoacán saw snowfall on Saturday thanks to cold front 35. 

In Mexico City, the snow affected high-altitude areas in the boroughs of Tláhuac, Tlalpan, Milpa Alta and Cuajimalpa. Images circulating on social media show forests, roads and mountains entirely covered by a dense white layer of snow, including national parks El Desierto de los Leones in Cuajimalpa and El Ajusco in Tlalpan. 

Snow also fell on the popular recreation area La Marquesa in Ocoyoc, México state, including the Mexico-Toluca highway.

“This is not Canada,” some users on social media wrote when sharing images of the snowy landscapes.  

Due to the heavy snowfall, the High Mountain Police of México state closed access to the Nevado de Toluca volcano, which is popular this time of year among climbers and hikers. 

The high forests of Michoacán, home to the Monarch sanctuary of Angangueo, were also affected by snow. According to Michoacán’s Civil Protection authority, Pico Tancítaro and San Andrés, the highest mountains in the state, saw snowfall starting on Friday afternoon. 

The National Commission of Protected Natural Areas (Conanp) has not yet made any announcement regarding the status of butterfly colonies in Angangueo, as they are still making an evaluation. 

In 2016, a winter storm devastated 54 hectares of forest in the state’s Monarch Butterfly Biosphere Reserve, killing more than 6 million hibernating butterflies. 

Snowfall was also reported in high-elevation parts of Nuevo León on Saturday.

The forecast for Monday

As per the National Meteorological Service (SMN), cold front 35 has now moved east from Mexico, passing over the Caribbean Sea. The arctic air mass associated with the front will start to warm, leading to a gradual increase in temperatures.

Meanwhile, the atmosphere will remain cold in highland areas of the northwest, north, northeast, center, east and southeast into the late evening on Monday. 

Due to the cold temperatures, the SMN has warned of potential frostbite and damage to asphalt pavement. Strong winds may also knock down trees and advertisements, for which authorities have called on residents to follow official recommendations to stay safe.

Finally, the SMN reported that a mid-level anticyclonic circulation in the atmosphere will bring a slight chance of rain to most of Mexico, with isolated showers in the Yucatán Peninsula, Chiapas, Oaxaca, Tabasco, Veracruz and Baja California. 

With reports from El Financiero, La Jornada, El Sol de México, El Universal and El Economista

Street fashion in Mexico to level up your style with ease

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Get your Mexican street style together with our list of trending Mexican fashion influencers. (Karem Vizcarra/Instagram)

The ability of fashion influencers to impact the opinions and purchasing behavior of others through their recommendations is unparalleled.

The Mexican fashion industry is experiencing significant growth, and a considerable portion of its consumer base is concentrated in younger, digitally savvy generations. Reaching them through the online platforms they frequent, including YouTube, Instagram and TikTok, is becoming considerably easier. 

Jalisco’s Marysol Cortés shows followers how to combine formal garments and loungewear for a stunning overall look. (Marysol Cortés/Instagram)

With this in mind, here is are five of Mexico’s most-followed fashion influencers and trendsetters. Through their content, these Mexican fashionistas inspire creativity, self-expression and confidence, encouraging individuals to explore their personal style and embrace fashion as a form of self-expression:

1. Karem Vizcarra: Passionate about aesthetics, conceptualization and graphic arts. On Instagram and TikTok, Karem shares her lifestyle, travels and plenty of fashion content, specifically tips on how to elevate very basic outfits. She is also an amazing photographer and visual artist; which you will see by scrolling through her social media. 

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Karem Vizcarra (@karemvizcarra)

2. Manu Castillo: Fashion editor for various media outlets and a fashion history enthusiast. Manu shares fashion facts and provides tips for looking incredible. His content is smart, fun and very useful if you are trying to understand what drives new fashion trends. 

@manustyling1 Respuesta a @victorivanlopez #fyp #aprendeentiktok #escuelacreativatiktok #moda #escuelatiktok #soycreador #sabiasque #aprendeentiktok #tikrokmoda #tiktokcultura #parati ♬ Stylish Jazz HipHop – Future Oriented Triad

3. Alexis Solis: A fashion influencer from Puebla, advocate for sustainable fashion and the CEO of the brand Tlocpan México. Alexis shares fashion tips and advice for purchasing affordable clothing from street markets nationwide.

@alexis.solismx #bazar #puebla #centro #tianguis #paca #marca #mexico #ropa #moda #ropaaesthetic #ropavintage #vinilo #antiguedades #alexissolis #viraltiktok #lodescubrientiktok #tiktokviral #fashiontiktok #donde #ubicacion #travel #aventura ♬ sonido original – Alexis Solis

4. Marysol Cortés: The Guadalajaran is known for her athletic career and prowess as a soccer player. Marysol showcases her elegant, casual and delicate side as a fashion and beauty enthusiast on Instagram. Sports and loungewear are becoming very popular even among people who don’t play, and Marysol’s social media shows followers how to combine street style and sportswear at the same time. 

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Sol Cortés (@marysolcortes)

5. Humberto Reséndiz: Humberto is a young professional from Villahermosa, Tabasco who, while working as a filmmaker, editor and community manager, has risen to internet stardom thanks to his photos featuring a variety of outfits suitable for various occasions. 

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Humberto Resendiz (@humbertoresendiz)

Beyond the world of social media influencers, Mexican street style is a significant influence in the country’s fashion scene. Influencers and trendsetters often showcase unique and innovative approaches to clothing, drawing inspiration from their surroundings and heritage. 

Now you know where to go if you are looking for Mexican street style recommendations or who to dress if you own a fashion brand and are looking to expand to Mexico!

Let us know what you think about these influencers and who to follow next! 

Camila Sánchez Bolaño is a journalist, feminist, bookseller, lecturer, and cultural promoter and is Editor in Chief of Newsweek en Español magazine.

Volkswagen to invest US $1B in Puebla plant to increase EV production

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VW is set to inject its Puebla plant with nearly US $2 billion in investment. (Volkswagen AG)

German car manufacturer Volkswagen will invest nearly US $1 billion in a second round of spending at its existing plant in Puebla, company and state officials announced Friday.

The influx of new money will help the carmaker boost electric vehicle (EV) production at the 300-hectare facility – Volkswagen’s largest factory outside of Germany and the largest automobile factory in all of Mexico, according to VW.

Puebla's Volkswagen manufacturing plant
Puebla’s Volkswagen manufacturing plant, which last year produced 349,200 cars. (Volkswagen México)

VW also operates an engine-manufacturing plant in Silao, Guanajuato, that is one-fifth the size.

In 2023, the Puebla plant produced 349,200 cars (an increase of 15.7% over 2022) and the Silao plant cranked out 436,200 engines, VW reported. The models produced in Puebla are Jetta, Taos and Tiguan, along with the Audi Q5 (VW owns a majority of shares in Audi).

Neither VW nor state officials offered details on what kind of EV production will be undertaken in Puebla. Overall last year, VW said it produced 771,100 EVs globally, an increase of 34.7% over 2022.

The new round of spending follows a US $763.5 million investment, announced in late 2022, that has gone toward modernization, making the production process more environmentally friendly and building a painting facility.

Volkswagen has announced that it intends to begin production of electric vehicles in Mexico. (Volkswagen México)

The announcement of the new investment was attended by Puebla’s interim governor, Sergio Salomón Céspedes, and Volkswagen’s Mexico director, Holger Nestler.

Nestler said the VW plants in Puebla, which opened in 1967, and Silao, which opened in 2013, employ more than 20,000 people.

Salomón said the state government is committed to providing businesses with opportunities that will also contribute to the growth of Puebla. Nestler also spoke of the importance of collaboration.

“This second investment package is also an example of the relevance of the state, where today we reaffirm manufacturing quality, while optimizing our business management based on environmental, social and corporate governance criteria, with a broad impact on the communities,” he said in a statement.

The main markets for VW-s Mexico-produced EVs will be Mexico, the United States and Canada, as previously indicated by the company.

However, according to recent statements by Odracir Barquera, director of the Mexican Automotive Industry Association (AMIA), 100% of the more than 106,000 EV units manufactured in Mexico in 2023 were exported. The total included 94,500 Ford Mustang Mach-E vehicles produced in México state and 11,700 Chevy Blazer EVs in Coahuila.

Last year’s total could double to 212,000 for 2024, Barquera said. What is unknown is how many, if any, will be sold and driven in Mexico, as EVs are more expensive than traditional cars and there are only 1,100 charging stations nationwide, AMIA notes.

With reports from Reuters

Mexico offers ayahuasca retreats for addiction recovery, PTSD and personal healing

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Psychedelic tourism — in this case, foreigners traveling to Mexico and South America to take ayahuasca — is exploding.(Shutterstock)

Might depression and anxiety be the most costly diseases in the West? You wouldn’t be alone in wondering if the mental health epidemic, which includes post-traumatic stress disorder and the opioid addiction crisis, might even cast into doubt the survival of our species. But one field is galvanizing the interest of mental health practitioners, neuroscientists and the rest of us: psychedelics. 

Clinical studies from John Hopkins University and Imperial College, among other research institutions, show powerful results in combating these mental health issues using psilocybin, bufo, ibogaine and ayahuasca. These drugs are less costly, less toxic and, perhaps most importantly, seem to induce spiritual experiences that can reframe a person’s perspective and set them on the road to healing — especially when guided by a professional. 

In the last decade, Mexico has seen a wealth of retreat centers and clinics spring up. With its history of Indigenous healing rites and ceremonies, including those that incorporate psilocybin or “magic” mushrooms, Mexico is attracting visitors looking to heal with psychedelics — a phenomenon now known as psychedelic tourism.   

PTSD is one of the most treatment-resistant medical conditions. “We are on the cusp of understanding how we can truly transform these mental conditions,” Sarah Oppenheim, a trauma-informed psychoanalyst from New York, informed me. “I don’t advocate the use of psychedelics professionally, but I have witnessed miraculous changes in my clients that have worked with them for mental disorders.” Several of her clients have traveled to Mexico to participate in ayahuasca ceremonies for healing, which has piqued her interest in Mexico as a potent place of healing. 

“I’ve always been interested in María Sabina, the Mazatec shaman, who is responsible for introducing psilocybin mushrooms to the West,” Oppenheim said. “As a psychology student, I remember Freud’s cynicism about PTSD. I think he only treated one veteran with PTSD, but he diagnosed him as cowardly, weak and effeminate. We have come a long way, both with our compassion and our willingness to think out of the box and help people heal from traumas that once seemed intractable. But countries like Mexico have been healing people and communities for a long time, and Freud’s limitations seem almost laughable now.” 

Why travel to Mexico for ayahuasca retreats?

Psychedelic tourism — in this case, foreigners traveling to Mexico and South America to take ayahuasca — is exploding. The internet is awash with advertisements promoting retreats in Mexico, from the most simple two-day retreats by the beach to high end, full-package clinics and retreat centers. These have drawn medical workers in the direction of alternative, holistic medicine. In the social media space, there are many questions regarding the credibility and trustworthiness of guides or shamans and the cultural appropriation of ancient Indigenous practices. Ayahuasca ceremonies have become a lucrative business in Mexico. With mainstream media highlighting the compelling results from clinical trials with psychedelics like ayahuasca, people are increasingly choosing this alternative treatment for PTSD, addiction recovery and deep personal healing.   

There are a multitude of retreat centers in the United States as well, but participants I spoke to who have traveled to Mexico for treatment cite a better experience all around. It’s possible to attend two-day retreats in the U.S. for under US $1,800 —  for example at Soul Quest Ayahuasca in Orlando, Florida. In addition to signing a waiver, however, Soul Quest Church of Mother Earth Inc. requires compulsory membership and a 10% registration fee. A weekend retreat can cost between US $2,000 and  $5,000, while a week-long retreat can range from $4,000 to $8,000, according to Philippe, who trained with the Shipibo people in Peru and now runs ceremonies all over the United States.

Marianne, who traveled to an ayahuasca retreat in Puerto Morelos, Quintana Roo, told me about the difference between her experiences in Mexico and the U.S. “I took part in an ayahuasca ceremony in a New York loft with about 50 other people, and as well as feeling too crowded and chaotic, which made it feel unsafe, you could hear traffic,” Marianne said.

“I paid $1,200 for the weekend and we all just slept on the floor, listening to more traffic — and that was supposed to be a good price. The experience had its worthwhile moments, but something felt off. I wanted to travel to a place where working with plant medicines like ayahuasca was part of their culture — and I also wanted to be in a natural, comfortable and attractive setting. I’d heard about shamans who are either from or travel to Mexico.  When I was done with the ceremony in New York, I felt called to Mexico.”  

Given its proximity to the US, Mexico has become a mecca for retreats, especially in the areas around Tulum and Cancún, due to their affordability, beautiful locations and easy travel access for Indigenous shamans coming from Peru and Costa Rica. Some ceremonies are much more affordable than in the U.S. and off the radar. Retreat prices can equal those in the U.S., but the settings are far more enticing, and additional treatments like temazcales, massage, crystal therapy or shamanic energy healing are often on the menu. 

Marianne chose to attend Aloee Wellness in Puerto Morelos, for a one-night ceremony for US $450 including bed, food and post-ceremony customer support. “My experience was completely different,” she said. “The setting made all the difference, and I trusted the shaman. The whole experience — from the environment, time spent pre-retreat discussing my medical background, which includes a history of depression and CPTSD (complex PTSD), to post-retreat care — was one of great care. I think Mexicans are naturally more nurturing as a culture, and the pace of life is less hectic. Also, the amount of delicious fresh fruit and organic foods available after the ceremony was amazing. In New York, there were just a few small snacks available. It felt like you were on a conveyor belt — like the next 50 people were about to be shuttled into the loft!”

If you’re seeking a longer, four-day experience, Behold Retreats holds ceremonies in Valle de Bravo, México state.  They also offer traditional Mexican healing practices like temazcales and bathing in hot springs. 

For the more hardcore seeker of personal growth, the Arkana International Spiritual Center in Izamal, Yucatán is also popular and hosts seven-day retreats which include three ayahuasca ceremonies, a psilocybin mushroom ceremony and a temazcal session. This experience starts at slightly under US $4,000, while their two-week retreat runs at just over $7,000. Arkana often hosts retreats with Heroic Hearts, a nonprofit helping U.S. veterans cure their PTSD with ayahuasca

Can ayahuasca cure PTSD?

To answer that question, let me share a personal story that took place in San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato, my second home for 14 years. In 2018, the Santa Ana theater at the Biblioteca Pública library and cultural center screened a special pre-release of “From Shock to Awe,” a documentary co-produced by former San Miguel resident and psychologist Janine Sagert, PhD. A deeply affecting and intimate film about healing with ayahuasca, the film raised fundamental questions about PTSD, mental health, the pharmaceutical industry and the effects of war. It went on to scoop film awards the next year in New York.

Matt Kahl and Mike Cooley served in the Iraq War, as part of the U.S. military. The film brilliantly documents their journey to healing from PTSD at an ayahuasca ceremony. As they drink ayahuasca several times over a weekend, images of battle appear to consume their minds.  They later experience profound revelations and a newfound perspective on their lives. The audience in the theater was visibly and profoundly affected. 

What interested me further was the passionate conversation that ensued among an audience that admitted they knew very little about the therapeutic benefits of psychedelics. “I still thought of them as hedonistic drugs, used by irresponsible ‘hippies’ who simply wanted to push the boundaries of consciousness,” confessed Herbert Morrow, an expat writer living in San Miguel. “I grew up in the 60’s. But wow, times have changed. If these two men can transform from a shell of a human being, as well as reuniting their shattered families, then I can believe this treatment holds incredible promise for the future.” Further conversations in the theater fostered frank truth-telling about past traumas and a keen and excited interest among the audience in attending ayahuasca ceremonies themselves.

Matt Kahl and Janine were present and hosted an electric Q&A session after the screening. Later that week, I took Matt and his wife Aimee scouting for land and old haciendas around San Miguel de Allende. They had a dream of setting up a retreat center in Mexico that would host ayahuasca ceremonies for veterans and civilians with PTSD. 

Tragically, Matt passed on recently, but I’ll always remember his joy, kindness and determination to bring psychedelic medicine to the masses. Aimee runs retreats in Colorado, continuing to honor his vision. She still dreams of bringing their kids to Mexico and finding that hacienda.

I have a happy memory of our conversations in the car, as we bowled along the dusty roads, heading towards La Huerta, a canyon outside San Miguel where Indigenous curanderos have lived for centuries, on a glorious sunny day in October.

“I could never participate in the military again. It seems so crazy now,” Matt commented. “I think psychedelics like ayahuasca will play a huge role in the future of humanity’s health.”  And with exciting scientific progress in that field today, better-trained retreat practitioners and the wealth of retreats now available in Mexico, who knows where psychedelic therapy could take us.

Disclaimer: This article is for informational purposes only and should not be considered legal or medical advice. The writer and Mexico News Daily assume no responsibility or liability for any errors or omissions in the content on this site. Individuals should always consult with qualified professionals regarding the use of ibogaine or any other substance for medical purposes, as well as consider their jurisdiction’s applicable laws and regulations.

Henrietta Weekes is a writer, editor, actor and narrator. She divides her time between San Miguel de Allende, New York and Oxford, UK.

Mexico beaches that are still hidden gems: Rivieria Nayarit, near Puerto Vallarta

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Twenty-five miles from Puerto Vallarta is Sayulita Beach, famous for its great surf and laid-back lifestyle. (Unsplash)

Mexico has no shortage of fabulous beach destinations, but one that is consistently full of surprises is the Rivera Nayarit. This band of coastal communities consists of 23 micro-destinations that extend for about 200 miles north from Puerto Vallarta along the coast of the state of Nayarit.

Riviera Nayarit is first and foremost a beach destination, but when you dig a little deeper beneath its golden-hued sand, you’ll discover that its many destinations are quite different and cater to nearly every type of traveler.

The Riviera Nayarit consists of a corridor that extends along the Pacific Ocean coastline, which covers the Mexican state of Nayarit. (Wikimedia Commons)

From the all-inclusive die-hards to those who want to disappear into a Daniel Defoe novel, from the professional surfers to the amateur snorkelers, the boho-chic to the barefoot casual, Riviera Nayarit is the perfect background to a dreamy vacation.

But which town is which and who will be drawn to what? I’ve broken it down into the basics about what to expect from each of the main beach towns along the Riviera Nayarit. 

Nuevo Vallarta

Crossing over the border from the Puerto Vallarta International Airport will put you at the doorstep of the Riviera Nayarit in its only major city, Nuevo Nayarit. Don’t be concerned if you don’t recognize the name Nuevo Nayarit. Up until 2022, it was called Nuevo Vallarta and was built almost as an extension of Puerto Vallarta. But it has recently gone through a destination rebrand and now goes by Nuevo Nayarit. Same city, new name.

In any event, Nuevo Nayarit is where you’ll find many of the all-inclusive resorts of the Riviera Nayarit. Smaller boutique hotels or international five-star brand names define the rest of the coastline. The most variety of chain resorts and all-inclusive are in Nuevo Nayarit. 

If you’re looking for an all-inclusive resort on a beautiful stretch of beach, Nuevo Nayarit is where it’s at. While Puerto Vallarta has its own list of all-inclusive resorts, the beaches in Puerto Vallarta proper leave much to be desired. Nuevo Nayarit got all the riches when it comes to the fabulous beachfront. 

Outside of the hotel sphere, you won’t find too much going on in Nuevo Nayarit. For the more charming beach towns and slice of local life, you’re going to want to keep on moving north.

Bucerías

Though it’s just up the coast from Nuevo Vallarta, Bucerías feels like another world. This small seaside town has grown in popularity over the years, but it still retains a sleepy vibe with its sandy streets, residential rentals, charming restaurants and shops, and boutique hotels. It’s a town that has a little bit of everything, particularly for people who feel overwhelmed by the traffic and noise of Puerto Vallarta, but don’t want to be too far away from major services.

Bucerías is all about color, from the low-rise building facades and beachfront umbrellas to the rainbow of fresh food you can find in its delightful restaurants. You’ll find most tourists camped out with their toes in the sand at the long string of beach bars that overlook the water. 

Top activities in Bucerías: whale watching, sailing, kiteboarding, fishing, and releasing baby sea turtles. (Unsplash)

Off the beach, Bucerías has a treasure trove of hidden gems, from El Eden Botanical Garden to food tours and art walks. Don’t leave Bucerías without trying the regional treats at Los Dorados de Villa Birria. Birria is a slow-cooked breakfast stew made with goat meat or beef, heaped high atop tortillas. For seafood, Lamara is known for its incredible ceviche. There are two other locations in Puerto Vallarta, and the one in Bucerías is just as excellent. 

Other top activities in Bucerías include whale watching, sailing, kiteboarding, fishing, and releasing baby sea turtles, which is a heartwarming and rewarding activity available up and down the coast of Nayarit. 

La Cruz de Huanacaxtle

Things get even quieter as you move up the coast to the village of La Cruz de Huanacaxtle. Shortened to “La Cruz,” this sleepy seaside town wows with natural beauty, from its rolling, jungle-covered hills to the beautiful beaches. 

Things have gotten swankier in La Cruz over the years, particularly in the marina. In 2008, the harbor was renovated to become Marina Riviera Nayarit and has more than 300 slips that can accommodate boats up to 400 feet in length. It even has a yacht club, complete with a sky bar, so La Cruz can be an interesting display of contrasts.

What most people come to La Cruz for is the seafood market. This bustling, colorful, energetic spot has more than a dozen vendors selling the freshest daily catch. What’s great is that the vendors will also give you tips on how to cook whatever you purchase. Choose from the ubiquitous mahi-mahi to plump shrimp, tuna, octopus, oysters — you name it!

Speaking of shopping, La Cruz hosts a weekly Sunday Farmer’s Market (from November to April), yet another colorful, swirling sight to see, with around 200 vendors in attendance. Be sure to bring plenty of cash — you’re guaranteed to find more than a few things to take home with you.

Punta de Mita

Punta de Mita is a great jumping-off point to explore the nearby Islas Marietas National Park. (Unsplash)

Bookending the northern end of the Bay of Banderas is a diamond-shaped peninsula known for its town, Punta de Mita. This is not to be confused with Punta Mita, which is the 1,500-acre private gated community home to the St. Regis and Four Seasons — Punta de Mita is the actual beachfront town, completely separate from the nearby five-star resorts and golf club.

Most people who are coming to the peninsula are staying within the confines of Punta Mita. While the gated community is beautiful, and its resorts are among the best in Nayarit, it is certainly exclusive and comes at a high price tag. Punta de Mita still swings decidedly high-end but offers many more approachable opportunities for travelers on a less extravagant budget.

This small town is packed with great restaurants and boutique shopping. Grab a beachfront table at Zicatela for ocean views and ceviche tostadas heaped high with aguachile or octopus. The fish tacos are superb here, as well.

Like many of the towns along the Riviera Nayarit, Punta de Mita is a great jumping-off point to explore the nearby Islas Marietas National Park (home to the famous, overly-Instagrammed Hidden Beach), go surfing, whale watching, kiteboarding, or snorkeling. It’s an adventurous destination but with plenty of creature comforts and a bohemian beachfront energy. Punta de Mita is also the last stop along the Bay of Banderas before you begin to hit the Pacific Ocean-facing beach towns of Riviera Nayarit.

Sayulita

Sayulita’s name comes from the Nahuatl word Sayolin which means ‘place of flies’. (Unsplash)

If you’ve heard of one town along the Riviera Nayarit, chances are it is the Pueblo Mágico of Sayulita. What started as a rugged, backpacker surf town has exploded into a bohemian coastal hotspot, complete with chic restaurants and cocktail bars, high-end boutique hotels, yoga studios, and plenty of local designer shopping. 

Despite this evolution, visitors still come from all over the world to surf its wild waves. You’ll also find sun worshippers splayed all across Playa Sayulita, which is where the highest concentration of beach restaurants and bars are. Plenty of travelers come to Sayulita for its wellness component. Retreats are often held in eco-friendly boutique hotels buried within the jungle-covered mountains. 

And you can’t come to Sayulita without indulging in a little retail therapy. Evoke the Spirit is a personal favorite for its local crafts that reflect the indigenous Wixárika culture. I also love Manyana for its ethically made clothing.

When the sun goes down, the streets of Sayulita start to heat up, from live music venues to restaurants with tables that spill out into the street. Cocktail bars have become increasingly popular here too. Try Escondido Bar or El Tiburón Sayulita.

San Pancho

Sayulita has certainly made quite the splash among the well-heeled, young traveler set. But for those who know the Riviera Nayarit and have seen it transform, Sayulita has become a little chaotic and overwhelming. The antidote to Sayulita is just up the coast in the neighboring village, San Pancho.

Short for San Francisco, San Pancho is often described as “Sayulita 15 years ago.” It’s much more low-key than Sayulita, but that vibe likely won’t last for long thanks to growing interest from travelers looking to explore the north.

I prefer San Pancho’s beach to Sayulita. It is a lot larger and, in my opinion, cleaner. You won’t find quite as many beach bars as you do in Sayulita, but for me, that’s part of the appeal.

Back from the beach, the small grid of sandy streets is flanked by small markets and shops, a growing number of more formal sit-down restaurants, and just a few cocktail bars. San Pancho does not have the late-night party scene that Sayulita does, but in all honesty, that’s what travelers love most about it. 

Lo de Marcos

Even more like Sayulita’s days of yore is Lo de Marcos, just 15 minutes north of San Pancho. This predominantly local community is one of the most beautiful and less built-up beach towns along the Riviera Nayarit, and that’s what makes it so special. A broad stretch of golden sand curves around a gentle bay. 

A colorful town square is surrounded by locally owned restaurants and a few small markets. Along each of the sandy cobblestone streets are small Mexican-style villas and a few charming resorts. If you are looking for a true Mexican beach town escape, Lo de Marcos may be exactly what you’re dreaming of.

The only recent change in this area is the opening of the One&Only Mandarina and the soon-to-open Rosewood Mandarina. While most resort guests typically stay on the property, just up the coast from Lo de Marcos, curious travelers are flocking in droves to discover its wind-swept, rugged shores. Things are quiet and low-key at the moment, but with time, you can expect to see Lo de Marcos grow much larger and busier, much like its neighbors Sayulita and San Pancho.

Rincón de Guayabitos

The next bead in the necklace of coastal communities in Rincon de Guayabitos. While nearby Lo de Marcos has managed to evade the spotlight of mainstream tourism, Guayabitos has grown into one of the most popular family travel destinations for snowbirds, as well as national tourists. They are drawn to the broad stretch of white sand beach, the colorful stalls and galleries selling souvenirs, and the extensive list of outdoor activities.

Development of Rincon de Guayabitos has been slowly building for the past three decades. It offers a good selection of all-inclusive hotels, as well as a variety of bungalows, bed & breakfasts, and vacation rentals. 

Off the coast are two beautiful islands teeming with wildlife. Isla Coral and Isla Cangrejo are popular for bird watchers who come to admire the local migratory birds, from pelicans to blue-footed boobies.

Chacala

Push another half hour north and you’ll tumble onto the beaches of beautiful Chacala. The exact antithesis of Puerto Vallarta, or even Nuevo Nayarit, Chacala is about as dreamy and laid-back as it gets. With a year-round population of less than 500 people, it’s hard to imagine Chacala moving at anything above a snail’s pace.

That said, snowbirds and Mexican families do flock here during the winter months, but the energy never vibrates beyond a low hum. Accommodations are humble boutique hotels or vacation rentals — you will not find a single all-inclusive resort here. 

The small bay is wrapped in jungle-covered hills with just a glimpse of palapa-topped colorful buildings peeking out from between the thick foliage. Here, most activity is around the beach, whether it’s snorkeling or kayaking, whale watching, or surfing. Fishing is a big activity here, too. The town isn’t exactly a culinary hotspot, but you’ll find a handful of beach restaurants selling a variation of basically the same thing: grilled fish, ceviche, seafood cocktail, and a few other staples. 

For the most part, people come to Chacala to lay low, watch the sunset, and turn in early. 

San Blas

San Blas has a coastline of 40 km of pristine beaches with gentle waves, ideal for families to enjoy. (Unsplash)

The last beach town you’ll come to along the Riviera Nayarit is the wildlife paradise that is San Blas. The town emerges froma bed of coastal plains that extend out to the Pacific Ocean, creating a marshy environment with palm trees and gorgeous, misty lagoons. Its broad, beautiful beaches are far from over-developed and the entire place has a castaway vibe that attracts nature lovers, surfers, and those looking to slip a little bit off the grid.

What brings many travelers to San Blas is the abundant wildlife. The town is known for its huge population of migratory birds. Not far from San Blas are several protected areas, like Isabel Island National Park and La Tovara National Park. The volcanic Isabel Island is about 70 kilometers off the coast and is an important refuge for seabirds. A total of 92 species have been recorded on the island, including blue- and red-footed boobies, pelicans, frigates, brown swallows, and many others. La Tovara National Park is a web of mangrove canals that create almost tunnel-like channels that bloom with colorful orchids and bromeliads. Keep your eyes peeled for crocodiles and sea turtles, who are the local residents of the waterways.

Meagan Drillinger is a New York native who has spent the past 15 years traveling around and writing about Mexico. While she’s on the road for assignments most of the time, Puerto Vallarta is her home base. Follow her travels on Instagram at @drillinjourneys or through her blog at drillinjourneys.com.

The week in photos from Mexico: Puebla to San Juan del Río

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Couple getting married surrounded by large flower heart
Feb. 14: In Veracruz city, a record 1,189 couples participated in a mass wedding ceremony on Valentine's Day. (VICTORIA RAZO/CUARTOSCURO.COM)

Take a visual tour of Mexico — from a mass wedding in Veracruz to a Wixárika ceremony in Zacatecas — with this selection of pictures from the week.

Mexico City

Celebration of Chinese New Year in Mexico City
Feb. 10: Hundreds of people participated in a celebration of the Chinese New Year of the Dragon in the Chinese neighborhood of Mexico City. (GALO CAÑAS/CUARTOSCURO.COM)

Zacatecas, Zacatecas

Traditional festival in Wixárika community
Feb. 10: Men and women of the Wixárika community participated in the “Festival of Corn” at the sacred site of Makwipa in the state of Zacatecas. (ADOLFO VLADIMIR /CUARTOSCURO.COM)

Puebla, Puebla

Carnival celebrations in Puebla
Feb 11: As part of the celebrations for Carnival, people dressed as “huehues”, or “old men” in Nahuátl, dance in the capital city of Puebla. (MIREYA NOVO/CUARTOSCURO.COM)

Nunkini, Campeche

Children dressing up for a festival in Campeche
Feb. 13: In the town of Nunkini, residents celebrate a unique Carnival tradition: the bears of Nunkini. In this festival, adults and children dress up in handmade bear costumes, made from materials such as sacks and deer skins, to dance through the streets. The festival is thought to have originated years ago after a circus visited the town, and presented a man disguised as a bear, which entranced the local residents. (MICHAEL BALAM/CUARTOSCURO.COM)

San Martín Tilcajete, Oaxaca

Carnival celebration in Oaxaca
Feb. 13: The town of San Martín Tilcajete, 30 km from the city of Oaxaca, is known for its Carnival celebration that includes a parade of devils covered in body paint. (CAROLINA JIMÉNEZ/CUARTOSCURO.COM)

San Juan del Río, Querétaro

Man picks roses in San Juan del Río, Querétaro
Feb 13: The community of El Organal in San Juan del Río is famous for the cultivation of roses. Forty-five years ago, the inhabitants began planting roses and today, they are transported all over the country for holidays like Valentine’s Day and Mother’s Day. (CÉSAR GÓMEZ/CUARTOSCURO.COM)

Mexico City

Bishop in a market in Mexico City
Feb 14: The bishop of the Christian Missionaries went on a visit to the Guadalupe Basilica market to visit vendors to apply the ashen cross to their foreheads on Ash Wednesday, the first day of Lent, which coincided with Valentine’s Day this year. (ROGELIO MORALES /CUARTOSCURO.COM)

How to find what you need in a Mexican pharmacy, and not what you don’t!

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Walking into a pharmacy in Mexico can be quite a different experience than walking into a CVS or Walgreen’s in the US…mainly because you have to actually ask for things rather than simply browsing. (Unsplash)

The first time I walked into a Mexican pharmacy, I stood still in the doorway for a few beats. 

Why was it so small? Where was everything? No candy aisle, no greeting card aisle, no sexual health or feminine hygiene products aisle. In fact, there was nothing that could even be called “an aisle.”.

In Mexico, most pharmacies are counter pharmacies: you don’t have to go into a “store”. (Dr. Simi/Instagram)

For such a cramped space, it was incredibly confusing.

I soon learned the ropes, and now, my fine readers, it is time to pass that knowledge on to you. Here’s what to remember when it’s time to go to the pharmacy in Mexico:

  1. Not all pharmacies are created equally. In my neck of the woods, we can divide pharmacies up into three “tiers.” (When I say “tiers,” by the way, I’m not necessarily talking about quality, but about familiarity for those of us from the United States who are stores like Walgreens and CVS.)

    At the bottom is Farmacias Similares, which is a regional low-cost pharmacy chain stocked with cheap, generic versions of many medicines. Many of these pharmacies also come with an attached consultorio (doctor’s office), where one can see a general doctor for minor illnesses like digestive or respiratory infections. The doctor will write you a prescription if one is warranted and recommend other medicines for your symptoms, which you can (of course) buy at the pharmacy. The fee for seeing the doctor is symbolic (about 50 pesos, or close to US $3), and the pharmacy itself is countertop-style and pretty no-frills — there’s no “store” to walk into. Needless to say, you must ask an attendant to fetch the medicines you need, and the supply of basic toiletries is fairly limited.

    Farmacias Similares is one of the most important pharmaceutical chains in the country, covering the health of thousands of Mexicans at an affordable cost. (Dr. Simi/Instagram)

    Farmacias Similares, by the way, is where you might find someone dressed up in a Dr. Simi mascot costume, a staple of modern Mexican culture. As far as I’m concerned, their medicines are just as good as any others, though I have had doctors tell me not to buy certain medicines there, so apparently there are medical professionals out there who have their doubts, valid or not.

    The next tier would include chains like Farmacias de Ahorro and Yza, which may or may not come with an attached consultorio (Farmacias de Ahorro usually does, and theirs is free). At these pharmacies, there is a little “store” area with items you can pick up and examine, though these are restricted to a fairly small variety of toiletries and over-the-counter medicines. Condoms are mercifully available in this area now as well (you had to ask for them at the counter when I first arrived in Mexico). On the shelves, you can also find things like nail clippers and lip balm, and maybe a few snacks and refrigerated drinks. A few different brands of baby formula and diapers are available behind the counter, as well. Most independent pharmacies are similarly stocked.

    Finally — this is a long “item” for a list, I know — are larger pharmacies like Farmacias Guadalajara and Farmacias San Pablo, which are the most similar in terms of selection to a place like CVS, though without as much variety; I’d include grocery store pharmacy areas in this tier, as well. Medicines tend to be a little pricier, but if you need to get more specific toiletries or other things on the same trip that you might normally look for in a tiendita or grocery store, these pharmacies can be very convenient.

    Lastly, homeopathic pharmacies are in their own class, and there’s usually a homeopathic doctor available if you choose to go that route.

    At Farmacias Guadalajara you can find everything from medicines to food and toiletries. (Unsplash)
  2. You don’t need a prescription for everything. When I first arrived, you could ask for pretty much any kind of medication, including antibiotics, and they would just sell it to you. That’s no longer true for antibiotics or stronger pain medications (more on that below).

    One notable area on this subject is birth control: in Mexico, you can simply ask for birth control pills (by brand, as there are many), as well as the morning-after pill at a pharmacy without a prescription. While abortion before 12 weeks of gestation is now officially legal at the federal level in Mexico, asking for the abortion pill (Mifepristone) may yield success on a case-by-case basis, depending on the pharmacist you are dealing with. A quick online search of local pharmacies makes it appear that this is completely possible, but seek the advice of a medical professional.

    Other medicines you might be surprised to learn you don’t need a prescription for are psychiatric, like many generic versions of SSRIs, a class of antidepressants used to treat depression and anxiety. Treatments that are known to be addictive, like stimulants, for example, are less widely available and can still only be bought with a prescription and are often subject to shortages. Weight-loss wonder drug Ozempic is similarly available over the counter across all of Mexico.

    As with all major medical procedures and treatments, starting anything new under the treatment of a doctor is always the most advisable.
  3. You probably won’t find everything you’re looking for. Part of this is simply because the market in Mexico is unique and certain brands haven’t expanded here (luckily Excedrin Migraine finally has…now if I could only get a hold of some Tylenol Sinus!). The lesson? If you have a go-to over-the-counter medicine that works for you, you might want to stock up during trips back home.

    And if you’re looking for something particularly strong, such as opioids, you’re likely not going to find them anywhere outside of a hospital. If you do happen to find them, I’d advise you to be incredibly suspicious of their origin and authenticity: that level of pain medication in Mexico is typically reserved for palliative care; my mother couldn’t even access them after having surgery here. Since certain pharmacies in tourist and border areas have been found to sell counterfeit medications containing fentanyl (those that do typically advertise these drugs heavily to foreigners, another tell-tale sign worthy of avoidance and suspicion), it’s best to stay far away.

Like with many things in Mexico, a trip to the pharmacy will be a different experience than you’re probably used to, one in which you’ll need to interact with the people who work there to get what you need. Thankfully, you’ll likely find people to be as helpful and accommodating as they are elsewhere. Happy shopping, and get better soon!

Sarah DeVries is a writer and translator based in Xalapa, Veracruz. She can be reached through her website, sarahedevries.substack.com.