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What’s polluting Mexico’s groundwater?

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Contaminated water at the Bordo San Jerónimo, Mexico
Mexico's groundwater is heavily contaminated in parts of the country, with long-term exposure proving dangerous to health. What's causing this crisis? (Crisanta Espinosa Aguilar/Cuartoscuro)

Mexico has experienced a water crisis for the last decade due to a combination of factors.  Drought, overexploitation, inadequate infrastructure, mismanagement of water supplies and contamination have all stolen the headlines at one point or another. 

Despite record dryness, however, poor rainfall and overexploitation of aquifers are far from the only issues facing the Mexican water supply.

dirty water flows out of a drain in an urban area
A 2022 Conagua study found that less than half of Mexican groundwater was fit for human consumption due to the presence of fluoride, coliform bacteria, nitrates and/or heavy metals. (Shutterstock)

What issues are facing Mexico’s water supply?

One particularly pressing issue is exposure to fluoride and arsenic, which the Bulletin of the World Health Organization (WHO) has cited as the two chemical contaminants believed to have the greatest effect on public health globally. Long-term exposure to high levels of fluoride has been shown to cause neurological problems, while prolonged exposure to arsenic has been linked to a range of health compliations affecting the cardiovascular and endocrine systems. 

The damage caused to health has been recorded worldwide in countries such as Argentina, Bangladesh, Chile, China, Hungary, India, Iran, Romania, Taiwan, the United States and Vietnam. 

In Mexico, this type of pollution is being referred to as “[a] new class of water contamination” by some researchers and experts. This concern is shared by Dylan Terrell, founder and executive director of Caminos de Agua, a small nonprofit in San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato, that works with NGOs and community leaders on projects in rural areas impacted by the water crisis across Mexico. 

“We used to be worried about pathogens and bacteria that were easy to deal with, but these two chemicals cannot be removed easily…not even by standard water filtration systems,” Terrell noted in an interview with Mexico News Daily. 

Research has pointed to a natural explanation for the presence of arsenic and fluoride in Mexico. A 2020 study published in the scientific journal Science of the Total Environment notes that the origin of these contaminants in water “is mostly geological” but can be exacerbated by human activities such as mining and pesticide use. 

Fishermen at the Zimapán Dam on the Hidalgo-Querétaro border are struggling with fish shortages due to past overfishing. Despite efforts to restock, demand has dropped after studies revealed arsenic in the water linked to a nearby hydroelectric plant. (Demian Chavez/Cuartoscuro)

The study’s authors found that the highest concentrations of the chemicals appear in alluvial aquifers in northern Mexico, “where high-silica volcanic rock likely releases both arsenic and fluoride into the groundwater.” In the nearby Comarca Lagunera region, a hotspot for arsenic contamination, studies have likewise determined that the concentration of arsenic is attributable to geological activity millions of years ago.

Researchers at the National Autonomous University of Mexico (UNAM) explain that as arsenic flows through rock formations, it contaminates underground aquifers and rivers. These aquifers and rivers provide approximately 39% of all drinking water in Mexico, according to a 2017 study by the National Water Commission (Conagua).

The Science of the Total Environment study concludes that 56% of the Mexican population lives within five kilometers of at least one of the areas sampled in the study and that over 3 million people are exposed to fluoride above the maximum acceptable dose of 0.06milligrams per kilogram of body weight per day. Moreover, 8.8 million people in Mexico are exposed to arsenic above the WHO-recommended daily limit of ten micrograms per liter. The study’s authors project an additional 13,070 cases of cancer expected from this arsenic exposure alone, primarily concentrated in north-central Mexico.

Despite contamination from industrial sources, much of Mexico’s groundwater is actually contaminated via natural causes. (Saúl López/Cuartoscuro)

How is Mexico solving this issue? 

Researchers and experts in the field have been forced to explore new mechanisms to remove arsenic and chemicals similar to this one as there is no special technology to remove them nor sufficient help from government entities. 

Nonprofits like Caminos de Agua work alongside the National Water Quality Inventory (INCA) a non-governmental initiative created by a team of international researchers to monitor arsenic and fluoride in low-income communities. The NGOs also offer technical advice and sometimes funding to allow affected families to purchase the materials needed for water filters.  

Jaime Hoogesteger, an associate professor at Wageningen University in the Netherlands has extensively studied issues of water governance in Mexico as part of his post-doctoral studies. Hoogesteger has worked with both Caminos de Agua and INCA to educate and protect populations in vulnerable regions of Guanajuato state. 

“I have sent some of my students and researchers to these communities to test water, and the best solution in this particular region is to get clean water through rainwater harvesting,” Hoogesteger told Mexico News Daily. 

Caminos de Agua initiatives include developing and distributing affordable water filtration systems, rainwater harvesting solutions and conducting community education on water safety. (Caminos de Agua/Facebook)

The researcher believes this is the best alternative as aquifer levels are declining and water quality is receding. Conagua currently lacks the ability to regulate water usage in general, meaning significant quantities are siphoned off for commercial and agricultural use. 

“It’s a problem that you have in a lot of arid and semi-arid areas where you have a large storage of groundwater that has been stored over hundreds or maybe thousands of years…if you start pumping, it’s not replenished and then basically what you are doing is mining water, Hoogesteger added. 

Caminos de Agua has worked since 2010 in rural communities to supply clean water through water treatment plants developed by academics. These plants are not yet commercially available but remove contaminants at the community level. 

Another project, at UNAM, is focusing on separating arsenic in groundwater through the implementation of electrodeionization (EDI). Dr. Francisca Alicia Rodríguez Pérez, an academic and researcher at UNAM’s FES Cuautitlán campus, proposed this project as an alternative to current methods. 

UAM students developing techniques to remove metals from wastewater through electrodeionization. (UAM)

“Detecting and quantifying the presence of contaminants in groundwater is a major challenge,” Rodríguez told the FES Cuautitlán gazette in June. “The problems are only detected once the contaminants have reached a spring, river or well that supplies local communities, since the impurities usually go unnoticed until the inhabitants are affected,” she said.

Rodríguez also specified that EDI is a chemical-free process used to demineralize water. It uses a water treatment tool that uses electricity, resins and membranes to remove ionized species from water including salts and organic acids. As a result, water is purified.  

Bottled water or water filtration systems?

Many of us would think that another alternative to obtain potable water is simply to drink bottled water, but Terrell says otherwise. The Caminos de Agua CEO adds that bottled water is not necessarily trustworthy. “It may be free of bacteriological pathogens, but [can still contain] excessive levels of arsenic and fluoride,” he told Mexico News Daily. 

He also explained that after the 2019 scandal in which beverage maker Grupo Peñafiel confirmed that it found elevated levels of arsenic in beverages produced at two of its plants in Puebla and Jalisco, more researchers have focused on studying the presence of these chemicals in bottled waters. 

Recent studies across a number of journals have found concentrations of fluoride and arsenic in bottled drinking water in Durango and Chihuahua. 

“Instead of giving water to these producers, it’s safer to install water systems and more affordable than buying bottles of water in the long run,” Terrell added. 

Originally from Texas, Nancy Moya has two degrees from New Mexico State University and the University of Texas at El Paso. With 15 years of experience in print and broadcast journalism, she’s worked with well-known outlets like Univision, The Associated Press, El Diario de El Paso, Mexico’s Norteamérica and Mundo Ejecutivo, Germany’s Deutsche Welle and the Spanish-language El Ibérico of London, among others.

State by Plate: Birria estilo Aguascalientes

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birria estilo Aguascalientes
Move over Oaxaca, it's time to profile the rest of Mexico's incredible culinary offerings. We begin with birria estilo Aguascalientes, an alternative take on a taco classic. (Canva)

My friend Ignacio Padilla Rivas is not a man much given to poetry. But he comes very close to it when the topic is birria, particularly birria as it is made in Aguascalientes, where he grew up. “When you have one of those hangovers that make you feel as if you’re close to death, birria will save you. A few beers, a few tacos de birria at Los Toriles (a birrieria in Aguascalientes, the capital city in the state of the same name) and you can feel yourself, as David Gilmour would say, ‘Coming Back to Life.’”

Of course, this classic Mexican stew was not invented in Aguascalientes (where, by the way, it’s typically not served as a stew). Its roots are in neighboring Jalisco. After the Spanish conquest of Mexico in the 16th century, livestock animals like goats, cattle, and sheep were introduced to the country. All three would later be used to make birria. Cattle-sourced beef, for example, remains the meat of choice used by residents of La Barca, one of two towns in Jalisco that claim to have invented the dish. 

Birrería Los Toriles, Aguascalientes
Los Toriles, an unassuming eatery, serves perfection on a plate. (Gastranking)

However, most sources credit this delicious creation to the pueblo mágico of Cocula, where goat meat and ground chilies were originally wrapped in maguey leaves and cooked pit-style in underground ovens. Legend has it that goats eventually became so abundant that Spanish conquistadors gave them to the Indigenous inhabitants of the Sayula municipality, who made the strange meat even more palatable with the addition of an adobo salsa rub. 

How birria is made in Aguascalientes

Over time, as the dish evolved in Jalisco, it was most often served in a broth with the goat accompanied by chilies and tomatoes with onion and cilantro garnishes. In Aguascalientes, where birria has also been made since the 16th century, the broth is typically served on the side as a consomé. This consomé, as with barbacoa, is collected from the meat drippings produced during birria’s lengthy preparation process. 

But that’s not the only difference from the Jalisco version. In Aguascalientes, lamb is the preferred meat. No, it’s not used exclusively. “Some restaurants use goat or beef,” says Manuel Serna, owner of Birria Los Toriles. “But the principal ingredient at our restaurant is lamb meat, with tomato and spices like chile de árbol for the sauce, and onions added to give it more flavor.” 

Birria de Aguascalientes
Slow cooked overnight in a steam bath, the lamb in birria estilo Aguascalientes is a tender treat for the tastebuds. (Cocina Casera)

Lamb for birria estilo Aguascalientes is usually wrapped in maguey leaves and steamed overnight rather than cooked in an oven. When ready, it’s served on a plate or in a shallow bowl to corral any remaining drippings, with the onions on top of the meat. This arrangement makes it easier to spoon the birria into corn tortillas for tacos along with the chile-seasoned salsa. Small bowls of serrano peppers are often provided for those seeking a more pronounced level of spiciness.

Meccas for birria estilo Aguascalientes

Birria Los Toriles is one of the premier destinations for those interested in tasting traditional birria estilo Aguascalientes. The restaurant’s interior is instantly recognizable thanks to the walls covered in bullfighting posters and memorabilia. Aguascalientes, of course, is notable for its bullfighting history and has produced several famous toreros, including Joselito Adame and Miguel Espinosa, nicknamed “Armallita” like his legendary father Fermín Espinosa, who retired to Aguascalientes after establishing himself as one of the greatest matadors in Mexican history. Corridas de toros are still a traditional part of the annual Feria Nacional de San Marcos, the largest fair in Mexico.

However, the most iconic destination for birria in Aguascalientes is Mercado Juárez (also known as El Mercado de la Birra), which hosts about two dozen small birrierias and a few huarache vendors, just in case visitors want to buy a new pair of sandals between samples of birria from the specialists in the dish housed in its many stalls. Some, like the acclaimed El Lago Azul and Birrieria Los Vazquez, have been open for over sixty-eight years. That is to say, slightly longer than Mercado Juárez itself, which opened its doors on Calle General Guadalupe Victoria in the city center of Aguascalientes in 1957. 

MERCADO DE LA BIRRIA EL MERCADO JUÁREZ AGUASCALIENTES

El Lago Azul and Birrieria Los Vazquez, like Birria Los Torriles, serve lamb that has been steamed overnight in the signature Aguascalientes style, one of the reasons this market is considered a representative purveyor of the city’s (and state’s) quintessential dish. It’s open until 8 p.m., an early closing that may not seem conducive to dinnertime visits. That’s because most locals prefer their birria for breakfast or lunch. 

The best time to visit Aguascalientes to try its signature dish

There’s never a bad time to visit Aguascalientes or to sample its wonderful birria. But some times are better than others. Each September, for example, in conjunction with the fiestas patrias surrounding Mexican Independence Day, a Festival Nacional de la Birria is held in Rincón de Romos, a municipality with a population of less than 100,000 in the northern part of the state. During the festival’s fifth edition this year, 32 local birria makers gathered to showcase their versions, along with visiting exhibitors from other noteworthy birria-producing states like Jalisco and Zacatecas. 

But the best time, bar none is during the Feria Nacional de San Marcos, an event as singularly unforgettable as Mardi Gras in New Orleans. Held yearly since 1828 around the feast day of St. Mark (April 25), the fair offers many attractions for visitors to Aguascalientes (the city), from rodeos, casino gambling, and concerts featuring a who’s who of Latin American music stars to more controversial yet culturally embedded activities like bullfighting and cockfighting. Regional gastronomy, naturally, also takes center stage during the fair’s extended three to four-week run time, with birrias galore available from vendor stands and restaurants.

Of course, those who attend for the full nearly monthlong slate of festivities run the risk of coming down with their fair share of hangovers. But this risk is always mitigated in Aguascalientes by the proliferation of birrierias, where cures for the condition are dished out daily.

Chris Sands is the Cabo San Lucas local expert for the USA Today travel website 10 Best, writer of Fodor’s Los Cabos travel guidebook, and a contributor to numerous websites and publications, including Tasting Table, Marriott Bonvoy Traveler, Forbes Travel Guide, Porthole Cruise, Cabo Living and Mexico News Daily. His specialty is travel-related content and lifestyle features focused on food, wine and golf.

15 bucket list experiences to unlock the best of Puerto Vallarta

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Puerto Vallarta bucket list
Puerto Vallarta has something for everyone, but what should you absolutely include on your next trip to the beach? (Rotas Turisticas)

Puerto Vallarta may be a beach town, but it’s far from ordinary. As someone who’s lucky enough to call this place home, I can tell you that there’s so much more to discover beyond the beautiful coastlines and all-inclusive resorts. Whether you’re into adventure, food, or culture — or just want to kick back and relax — you’ll find plenty of ways to get underneath the skin of this beach resort hotspot. Here are my top bucket list experiences that will make your Puerto Vallarta trip unforgettable. These are not just the tourist hotspots; these are the insider secrets that locals love too.

Stroll along the Malecón at sunrise

Puerto Vallarta Malecon
(Visit Puerto Vallarta)

Everyone knows the Malecón, but here’s the trick — go early. Watching the sunrise over the mountains, casting a warm glow over the bay, is a peaceful way to start the day. The sculptures, the sea breeze, and the quiet streets make it feel like the town is just waking up with you. Trust me, it’s a completely different vibe from the busy afternoons.

Taste handmade chocolates at Raíces Chocolatería

This spot is a hidden gem for anyone with a sweet tooth. Raíces Chocolatería is all about artisanal, hand-crafted chocolate. Try the dark chocolate truffles (my personal favorite), and if you’re feeling adventurous, ask about their ice bath experiences.

Hike to the hidden Colomitos Beach

Colomitos beach
(Visit Puerto Vallarta)

If you’re up for an adventure, take a boat to Boca de Tomatlán, then hike through the jungle to Colomitos Beach. The hike is short but a bit rugged — totally worth it when you reach this small, secluded cove with crystal-clear waters. I love bringing a picnic and spending the day snorkeling and relaxing away from the crowds. If you’re feeling even more intrepid you can continue the hike on to Playa Las Animas or even further to Quimixto.

Catch the sunset at El Solar

Locals know that El Solar is the place for sunset drinks. Grab a cold beer or a mezcal cocktail, sink your toes in the sand, and get ready for some of the best sunset views in town. There’s usually a live DJ spinning low-key beats, and it’s the perfect place to mix with locals and fellow travelers.

Get lost in art in the Zona Romántica

Puerto Vallarta Zona Romantica
(Villa del Palmar)

Zona Romántica is not just for lovers — it’s for art lovers too! Wander through its cobblestone streets and explore the galleries. The ArtWalk (from October to May) is a great way to discover local talent, but even if you miss it, places like Galleria Dante are open year-round. You’ll feel like you’ve stumbled into a hidden creative world.

Watch whales dance in the Bay of Banderas

As a resident, whale watching season (December to March) never gets old. Even though I’ve seen them plenty of times, there’s something magical about watching humpback whales breach and splash right in Banderas Bay. Book a small tour for a more intimate experience, and bring your camera—these gentle giants put on a show.

Join the party at Mr. Flamingo’s

Mr. Flamingo Puerto Vallarta
(Tripadvisor)

Mr. Flamingo’s is one of those places that always delivers a fun night out. This open-air bar in the Zona Romántica has a funky, colorful vibe that makes it hard not to dance. Locals and tourists come together here, drinks in hand, dancing to the beat of retro pop hits. It’s my go-to spot for a casual but high-energy night.

Snorkel at Los Arcos national marine park

Los Arcos is a must if you love the ocean. The rock formations are stunning, and the snorkeling is top-notch. You’ll see vibrant tropical fish, manta rays, and maybe even a sea turtle or two. Go early in the morning to avoid the tour boats, and you’ll feel like you have this underwater paradise all to yourself.

Sail into the sunset

Bay of Banderas sunset
(Pinterest)

Living here, I’m spoiled with stunning sunsets, but there’s something special about watching one from a sailboat on the bay. Book a sunset cruise for a front-row seat to the fiery colors lighting up the sky over the Pacific. It’s peaceful, romantic, and a bit surreal — a perfect way to end the day.

Explore Isla Cuale’s hidden treasures

Right in the middle of town, Isla Cuale is often overlooked, but it’s a fantastic spot to escape the crowds. Wander through artisan markets for unique souvenirs, check out the Cuale Cultural Center, or just relax by the river with a coffee. It’s like a little slice of quiet paradise in the heart of Puerto Vallarta.

Dance at La Bodeguita del Medio

Cuban Salsa at La Bodeguita del Medio, Puerto Vallarta with Francia & Israel@salsaenvallarta7312

This Cuban bar and restaurant is where you go when you want to move. Their live salsa music will have you on the dance floor in no time, mojito in hand. The atmosphere here is infectious — don’t worry if you’re not a pro; it’s all about having fun.

Take a taco and tequila tour

Puerto Vallarta’s street food is the stuff of legends. If you’re a foodie, a taco and tequila tour is a must. You’ll discover the best local taquerías, tasting everything from tacos al pastor to marlin tacos. And, of course, you’ll wash it all down with local tequila and mezcal. As a local, this is how I like to show visitors the heart of Vallarta. You can take a group tour with a company like Vallarta Food Tours, or you can DIY with my list of the top taco spots in Puerto Vallarta.

Overnight escape to Yelapa

Yelapa beach
(Tripadvisor)

If you really want to get off the beaten path, take a boat from Los Muertos Pier to Yelapa, a small, car-free fishing village. Spend a night there in a beach bungalow, and you’ll wake up to nothing but the sound of waves and the occasional rooster. By day, hike to the waterfall, and by night, have fresh seafood by candlelight on the beach. It’s a peaceful escape from the hustle and bustle of Vallarta that I always recommend to visitors.

Spend a day at a Beach Club

Puerto Vallarta’s beach clubs are an elevated way to enjoy the seaside. If you’re looking for a relaxing day, head to a local favorite like Swell or Mantamar. For something swankier, La Palapa offers beachside gourmet dining and cocktails.

Day trip to nearby Pueblos Mágicos

Puerto Vallarta is surrounded by charming Pueblos Mágicos (Magical Towns), and they’re just a day trip away. Towns like San Sebastián del Oeste and Mascota are perfect for those looking to immerse themselves in authentic Mexican culture and history. As a local, these towns are where I go when I want a break from the beach and a dose of mountain air.

Meagan Drillinger is a New York native who has spent the past 15 years traveling around and writing about Mexico. While she’s on the road for assignments most of the time, Puerto Vallarta is her home base. Follow her travels on Instagram at @drillinjourneys or through her blog at drillinjourneys.com.

As the US election nears, anxiety is running high in Mexico: A perspective from our CEO

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U.S. and Mexican flags with a concrete-like crack running between them.
The impacts of the U.S. election will be felt around the world, and Mexico has a front-row seat. (Shutterstock)

With the US election just a few days away, anxiety is high on both sides of the American political aisle. Nobody seems to know who the winner will be, and the language from both sides in the US has been apocalyptic about what will happen if the other side wins. So I suppose it’s no surprise people feel the way they do.

Last week, the Wall Street Journal ran a story on how people were coping with pre-election stress. Several of the people interviewed referenced their favorite drug or alcoholic beverage to help them keep calm.

Here in Mexico, the stress is also high — perhaps even more so. Mexicans and residents in the country are dealing with a barrage of headlines about the new Mexican administration under President Sheinbaum (which began just a month ago). At the same time, they are trying to figure out what the new U.S. President might mean for their own country.

It’s important to remember that many Mexicans have family on both sides of the border and, as a result, are very impacted by U.S.-Mexico relations.

Is a ‘big move’ coming for the Mexican peso?

In the past several months, as per Banxico, the Mexican peso has weakened sharply and is now above 20 to the US dollar. Every day I read pundits predicting that it could soon go to 25. Despite the confidence of those making the predictions, I have yet to read any rational economic arguments for such a big move.

As we have witnessed, currencies often move irrationally in the short term, and a big Mexican peso move is definitely possible.

President Sheinbaum stands in front of a Mexican flag at her morning press conference
Uncertainty over judicial reform and currency fluctuations has dogged President Sheinbaum’s first days in office. (Rogelio Morales/Cuartoscuro)

Further complicating a clear view of the future, there have been mixed messages coming from the Mexican government.

On one hand, key members of the Sheinbaum administration have moved quickly to send positive messages to investors. A visit to New York City by Mexico’s Finance Minister, Rogelio Ramírez de la O, as well as statements by Economy Minister Marcelo Ebrard of the importance of creating a favorable environment for foreign direct investment have been positive steps.

How do we make sense of all that is happening?

The administration’s recent U.S.-Mexico CEO Dialogue was also a positive first step. Sheinbaum’s team has been clear that they view increased cooperation and coordination with North America and reduced imports from elsewhere as a top priority.

On the other hand, Sheinbaum’s push to move forward on judicial reform continues to cause alarm. Despite concerns voiced by both domestic and foreign businesses and leaders, the administration has moved quickly, resulting in the tendering of resignations of eight of the 11 Supreme Court justices on the same day earlier this week.

A careful reading of the details of the resignations brings passionate arguments from each side as to the real motives — but it’s clear that such a move does not improve investor confidence, to say the least.

So how do we make sense of all that is happening? I’m often asked by people on both sides of the border which US presidential candidate I think would be best for Mexico. Unfortunately, I do not have a straightforward answer.

Former President Trump by far has had the most vocal comments about what he would do with tariffs with Mexico. As a result, many think he would be “bad for Mexico”. But the current USMCA agreement, which has undeniably been good for the country and allowed Mexico to steadily increase exports to the point of now being the No. 1 exporter to the United States, was signed during the Trump administration.

Ironically, Vice President Harris was one of only 11 Senators to vote against the agreement. If elected president, Trump would most certainly take a hard line on Mexico on many topics, but it appears he would likely take an even harder line on China, which could ultimately benefit Mexico.

Harris might not be as hard on tariffs on Mexico, but also might not be as hard on China. As much as I would like to provide a clear answer, it’s really not obvious yet which candidate would be better for Mexico. There are still too many unknowns.

Only a few days of high anxiety remain. Let’s pray for a clear winner and a clear path forward. That clarity will hopefully allow Mexico and the new U.S. administration to begin engaging on the many important issues and opportunities that the two countries face.

Travis Bembenek is the CEO of Mexico News Daily and has been living, working or playing in Mexico for over 27 years.

Taste of Mexico: Piquín

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Chili piquin growing
You might not recognize the piquín in it's pepper form, but when it gets powdered down, you'll realise you've seen it on every foodstuff imaginable. (Stephen J. Alexander)

Mexico has made remarkable contributions to the world: chocolate, carmine dye, the art of Frida Kahlo, color television, Corona beer and, above all, powdered piquín chili.

I have often heard foreigners describe us as crazy for adding chili to fruit or snacks, but once they give it a try, they can’t go back. The piquín chili is so addictive that I have friends who carry a small bottle of it with them everywhere because they can’t live without this essential condiment.

Chile piquín belongs on everything. Yes, you heard me right. Everything. (Jalapeños Tugitana)

What is piquín chili?  

The piquín is a small, roundish red pepper known for its intense flavor and moderate spiciness. Without this tiny chili, we cannot fully appreciate the flavors that define Mexican cuisine. This variety was domesticated around 9,000 years ago. 

In Mesoamerican cultures, chili was highly valued and played significant roles in tributes, ceremonies and medicinal practices due to its various health benefits. This appreciation for chili continues today: it’s no exaggeration to say that I’ve yet to meet a Mexican who doesn’t have at least one bottle of powdered piquín chili in their pantry.

The piquín chili is one of the few fruits that is both widely consumed and cultivated throughout much of the country. Its production is so essential that some rural communities in Querétaro, Sonora and Tamaulipas rely economically on cultivating and selling piquín.

The power of powdered piquín

As you already know, chili is a common ingredient in our meals, whether it’s used in salsa, adobos, or even as bites of raw chili. However, I genuinely believe that powdered piquín chili has transformed the way we enjoy certain vegetables. The power of the powder, however, is especially evident in how we consume our fruit.

 

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Since childhood, we’ve loved munching on sticks of carrots, jicama and cucumber topped with lime, salt and piquín chili. But amigos let me tell you that fruits sprinkled with powdered chili offer a whole different experience that you absolutely have to try. My favorites include apples, oranges, watermelon, pineapple and mango, all enhanced with chili. I know. My brother-in-law, who’s Spanish, thinks that fruits with chili are one of our most complex contradictions. Still, I can’t conceive the thought of eating a slice of watermelon without my piquín; it’s just not the same. 

I have no proof, but I am confident that in this country, fruit consumption is directly linked to the enjoyment of magical chili. In fact, this method of eating fruit is so common that we even have lollipops that combine chili with pineapple, watermelon and even cucumber.

Piquín chili and gut health

Concerned piquín is bad for your stomach? Au contraire, as our French friends might say. It is scientifically proven that chili peppers are rich in vitamins C and A, making them one of the best sources of antioxidants available. Additionally, studies have shown that chili can possess anti-inflammatory properties and may help to reduce cholesterol levels.

In traditional medicine passed down from Indigenous cultures, chili peppers have been used to treat digestive and respiratory issues.

The wonderful world of powdered piquín  

Taste of Mexico: Chile piquín
Look at it. It’s so majestic. It’s so delicious. It’s so… Mexico. (Jalapeños Tugitana)

You can use piquín to enhance the flavor of snacks like peanuts and chips, add a kick to margaritas, spice up esquites (corn on the cob) and give seafood a little pizzazz. To inspire your creativity, I’d like to share that a friend of mine used to enjoy strawberry and mango smoothies with piquín chili for breakfast. Maybe it’s too much, but you’ve got the idea.

Fun fact: as children, many of us would put piquín chili on our hands and lick it off bit by bit. We would do this during recess, using our very dirty hands. Perhaps this playful habit contributed to the strength of our antibodies today.

So, friends, to truly experience the flavors of modern Mexico, make sure to keep a bottle of piquín chili in your pantry. The next time you enjoy a mango or an orange, sprinkle this delightful powder on top. Once you try it, you’ll find it hard to eat fruit without piquín chili again!

Have you already tried it? What was your experience like? Did you like it, or is my brother-in-law correct, and we are all out of our minds?

María Meléndez is a Mexico City food blogger and influencer.

What you (probably) can and can’t do in a rental

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A couple painting a house
Is your rental feeling impersonal? Here's what you can (and can't) do about it. (Roselyn Tirado/Unsplash)

If you’re planning on spending more than just a few months in Mexico, chances are you’re going to want to rent a place. That’s easy to say, but when it comes to navigating the weirdly complex and unspoken rules of rentals in Mexico, things might get a bit tricker.

AirBnB is of course an option, though it tends to be on the pricier side. But if you’re hoping to stay for six months to a year or so to get a feel for a certain community, you’ll likely want to get into something slightly more settled.

Keys on a table
Great, you’ve got the keys, but how do you make a house a home? (Zan Lazarevic/Unsplash)

And anyway, renting long-term if you’re not ready or able to buy is also something many people do, myself included. Though rents have been increasing of late — along with everything else — they are still quite accessible when compared to US rental prices.

It’s also a nice choice if you’re not ready to “commit” to one single place in Mexico. Moving around when you’re able offers nice flexibility, as does not having to deal with the hassles of being “married” to a place.

That said, renting is not without its hiccups. Fortunately we’ve covered this quite a bit at Mexico News Daily over the years! Look here for common contract requirements. Here’s an article about what to expect, and yet another one with simple decorating tips! Finally, here’s some essential Spanish for when you’re out on the hunt.

What can and can’t I do in a rental?

Sistine Chapel ceiling
You could paint an ornate baroque ceiling onto your rental – but you’ll likely need to paint back over it when you’re done. (Garvit Nama/Unsplash)

Your rental agreement — do not rent without one, trust me — should outline most things specifically. When in doubt about a particular change, you should, of course, ask your landlord. Generally speaking, though, here’s what you can expect to be able to do and not do in rentals.

You can usually:

  1. Paint. There’s a caveat here, though. While most landlords are incredibly happy to have you slosh up a new coat of paint at your own expense, they will usually stipulate that you need to leave it in its original colors before you leave.

    This means you’ll likely be sloshing up two coats of paints at your own expense, which can get a little expensive and labor-intensive. For me personally, it’s worth it: I paint places even if I’m only there a year because good decor is near the top of my list of Important Things. For many it won’t be, though. Happy medium if you can’t resist: an accent wall, perhaps?

    It’s possible that the landlord will also like the colors you picked out, and let you leave them. This was the case, I thought, in my last place, and I even did some touching-up before I left. In the end, the landlord decided he wanted it white after all, so used the security deposit to have it all repainted. Sigh.
  2. Install things that can be removed, like shelving. One major issue I personally often have is a lack of storage space and safety features. The lack of light fixtures also bugs me, though I’ve gotten a little better at ignoring naked hanging bulbs. I have never lived in a big tourist area, but get the feeling that these might not be such a big deal there. Or maybe my budget is just too small?

    In any case, you’ll likely want to make some adjustments, and your landlord may or may not be willing to let you make them “a cuenta de la renta.” This means, basically, that you pay for them but discount them from the rent, and they will stay in the place you’re renting. If they do not get counted toward rent, you should take them with you when you leave.

    I’ve had some very good landlords, and over the years have had kitchen cabinets installed, safety railing put in on the stairs, and extra shelving put up. The owner of my current house even hired a carpenter to refinish all the cedar doors and windows in the house, no small task! Really, it’s just about good communication and setting expectations.
  3. Use the rental address as your “comprobante de domicilio.” For most paperwork in Mexico, including immigration, the SAT, and opening a bank account, you’ll need to show proof of address. Many foreigners are worried about this, since their names are not on the water or electricity bills. Fortunately, that’s perfectly okay. They simply want to see an actual address where they can contact you.

    Often the only bills that will be in your name are the internet if you decide to contract a different service. These services are often portable, unlike more permanent things like electricity, which will always be in the owner’s name.
Piggy bank
Don’t assume you’ll see that security deposit again. Probably. (Andre Taissin/Unsplash)

You can’t usually:

1. Get your security deposit back. I know this is a big deal for some people. I always remember the words in a book referring to those of us from the U.S.: “They were Americans, so they expected to get a fair deal.”

Unfortunately, “a fair deal” is not always what you will get — at least what you might classify a fair deal. The security deposit is one of those things that, again, might be different in areas more accustomed to foreigners.

In my own case, though, I’ve not gotten it back once. And while many will tell you that it’s the “last month’s rent” and that one simply doesn’t pay for the last month, this is not technically correct. If you’re thinking of doing this, look over your contract closely. Even if you leave the place spotless, you’re likely not going to get it back, so write it off as part of the cost of doing business, and enjoy it as an unexpected surprise if you do get it back. Landlords typically use it to spruce up the normal wear and tear of the house, which tends to be extensive because of the way homes here are built.

2. Expect to find a refrigerator and a stove/oven in an unfurnished rental. Though these are standard fare in apartments for rent north of the border, here it’s BYOA (Bring Your Own Appliances).

That means you’ll need to go shopping for a fridge and a stove, and a washer/dryer if you’re planning on using them. The good thing is that you can buy exactly what you want; the bad thing is that you’ll be responsible for any repairs. If you have a low budget, be sure to check Facebook marketplace, where lots of people sell theirs second-hand.

3. Make any structural changes to the house or garden. No knocking down walls, doors, or trees unless you can put them right back the way they were before you leave.

I myself decided to cut down the bouganvilleas in the yard. They’re thorny and impossible to tame, they tear up trash bags if you try to get rid of the trimmings, and the trash guys refuse to take them anyway since they get painfully poked. There’s really just no good solution if they haven’t been trained to grow a certain way from the get-go, and me and my family had been left bleeding one too many times. I decided to take a card from the Mexican playbook on that one: ask forgiveness, not permission.

So, we cut them down as short as we could. When the owner saw, she was devastated, and no explanation as to why we shortened them so would do, blood be damned. So guess what our next rental contract had in it? “Leave the bouganvilleas alone.” Ugh.

Again, remember to ask about anything you’re not sure of. Renting here gives you quite a few liberties — just make sure you’re not overstepping!

Sarah DeVries is a writer and translator based in Xalapa, Veracruz. She can be reached through her website, https://sarahedevries.substack.com/ 

Who was La Llorona, Mexico’s most terrifying phantom?

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La Llorona
No Mexico ghost story is better known than that of La Llorona, said to emerge on Day of the Dead. (Freepik)

Mexico is a land of myths and legends, and every region has its own based on its history.  But the best-known and most popular throughout the country is the Legend of La Llorona, the weeping woman. La Llorona is a ghostly apparition that walks through the streets at night weeping inconsolably — grieving and looking for her children — screaming, “Oh, my children, where are my children?”

Although the story has many variations, some details remain the same among everyone who tells the tale. She is described as an attractive woman wearing a long white dress that either hides her feet or she has no feet, she has a veil covering her face, if she sounds close, she is far away, if she sounds far away, she is very, very close and you should start running. It is said that no one has seen her “close up” because to do so means certain death. Seeing La Llorona is known to be an omen of misfortune and death for you, your family, or your community.

La Llorona in front of a full moon
La Llorona is seen as a portent of misfortune and death. (Canva)

Different versions of the Legend

There are three basic versions of the legend. La Llorona first appeared in Mexican culture in the 16th century and features Cihuacóatl — the divinity associated with pregnant women, water, and life. Missionary Fray Bernardino de Sahagún wrote of eight omens the Mexica experienced before the conquest.

One omen tells of a female entity that walks from Lake Texcoco and wanders the streets of Tenochtitlan in the dark of the night. According to Sahagún, Moctezuma witnessed Cihuacóatl just before the conquistadors arrived to conquer his empire. She was sobbing uncontrollably saying “Oh my children, where will I take you?  My little children, we have to go far away.”

Miguel León Portilla, author of The Vision of the Vanquished, Indigenous Relations of the Conquest, writes that there is a record of the predictions that the priests interpreted for Moctezuma. One of these predictions says that strange men will come from the East. Your people will suffer many tears and great sorrow, and your race will disappear. They say that is why the goddess Cihuacóatl wandered the streets crying and warned that misfortunes would soon come to the empire.

La Malinche
Some believe La Llorona is actually La Malinche. (famouspeople.com)

Another version from the 16th century features the Nahua woman Malinche, one of 20 enslaved women gifted to the Spaniards. Hernán Cortés chose her as his consort, but she also became his interpreter, advisor, and liaison with the Mexica and a lynchpin in their eventual conquest. Malinche has a mixed reputation today, seen as the symbolic mother of the new Mexican people that emerged from the union of Spaniards and Mexica — she had a son, Martín, with Cortés — but also as a traitor to her people.

She was said to wander the streets of Tenochtitlan distraught over her betrayal and lamenting the loss of her son Cortés took back to Spain with him.

The most famous Llorona is called María

However, the most famous and best-known version of the legend is the story of María. María was an indigenous woman of incomparable beauty who caught the eye of a rich and handsome Spanish nobleman. She fell madly in love with him and together they had three children. She was devoted to the man and her children and many times he said one day they would marry, but he avoided her in public afraid of what people might say about their relationship.

One day he abruptly left her to marry a prestigious Spanish lady of the upper class. María completely lost her mind, engulfed in rage and despair at being betrayed. She decided to exact her revenge in an unimaginable way. She gathered her children and took them to Lake Texcoco, hugged them tightly saying she loved them, and then drowned them in the lake. She almost immediately realized what she had done and was so distraught she took her own life. 

Ghostly La Llorona and her children
The most enduring version of the legend tells of “María,” who drowned her own children. (Mundo Serie X)

It is said that the woman’s soul is not at rest, and she was cursed, condemned to wander the streets eternally in search of her children. She walks the streets every night wearing a long white dress – presumably the dress she prepared for her wedding – in deep remorse and despair lamenting what she did with screams and cries of “Oh my children.”

The floating gardens of Xochimilco in Mexico City are one of the locations where people report hearing the crying of La Llorona and the occasional sighting.

The Crypt of La Llorona is said to be in Dolores Hidalgo

However, ghostly apparitions are not only seen and heard regularly in Mexico City. The legend is most popular in Guanajuato and Puebla. It is said La Llorona is buried in a crypt in the town of Dolores Hidalgo, Guanajuato – four hours outside of Mexico City.

According to some account, accounts, authorities sent friars to investigate the situation and spend the night there to verify the occurrences. The friars were surprised and frightened when they too heard the crying and sobbing. They informed the Vatican that they would install a plaque identifying it as the tomb of “La Llorona” in hopes of giving her a resting place, bringing some peace to her wandering soul.

La Llorona - Carmen Goett (Official Video)

But she continued to appear so frequently in Dolores Hidalgo that the people again beseeched the Vatican to help them. Representatives were sent to exorcise the ghostly presence in a desperate attempt to stop the tormenting of the inhabitants in the area but the apparition sightings and wailing continued.

In a further attempt to dispel her presence the landowner where the crypt is located placed a large cross over her grave. Perhaps as a sign, during an intense storm, with a clap of thunder, lightning struck the cross, splitting it in half and damaging the crypt.

The Legend of La Llorona is deeply rooted in the Mexican culture. The story is often told to children to discourage them from wandering off in the dark near bodies of water like rivers or lakes.

On Day of the Dead there is always at least one lone woman singing the haunting and sorrowful song of La Llorona. The song originated in Tehuantepec, Oaxaca. There are more than 500 different versions, and it is known internationally. La Llorona has been recorded by a multitude of singers, musicians, and musical groups, too many to list.  You may remember hearing it if you’ve seen the animated film Coco.  Books have been written; films produced as well as theatrical presentations on the legend of La Llorona.

Every year coinciding with Day of the Dead since 1993 there has been a waterfront performance of La Llorona set in the canals of the Xochimilco borough of Mexico City.  

Sheryl Losser is a former public relations executive, researcher, writer, and editor. She has been writing professionally for 35 years.  She moved to Mazatlán in 2021 and works part-time doing freelance writing. She can be reached at AuthorSherylLosser@gmail.com and at Mexico: a Rich Tapestry of History and Culture.

 

Planning the perfect vacation: Where to stay in Los Cabos

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Los Cabos Marina
Any visit to Los Cabos is sure to be great, but choosing the right location when picking your resort can enhance the trip even further. (Visit Los Cabos)

When Los Cabos was carved out of the existing municipality of La Paz in 1981, it took its name from the word shared by its two primary tourist destinations: Cabo San Lucas and San José del Cabo. These two cities continue to account for the vast majority of the population in Los Cabos and are the obvious locales in which to find a hotel or resort for your vacation. As of 2024, Cabo San Lucas alone has more than 8,600 hotel rooms, 40 percent of the total regional supply.

However, it’s worth noting that San Lucas and San José aren’t the only communities in a municipality encompassing nearly 1,500 square miles. There are over a dozen, including East Cape towns like Buenavista, La Ribera and Cabo Pulmo. The East Cape has always been a favorite of longtime visitors, as its sparse population and uncrowded beaches are more reminiscent of “the old Cabo.” But it’s becoming increasingly popular with younger travelers, too, thanks to a growing inventory of excellent accommodation options to accompany its perfect conditions for outdoor activities like diving, fishing, surfing and windsports. 

Hotel Tesoro Los Cabos
Hotel Tesoro Los Cabos is one of many downtown lodgings conveniently close to the Cabo San Lucas Marina. However, not all have a pool deck with views like this. (Hotel Tesoro Los Cabos)

The “Tourist Corridor,” the 20-mile stretch of coastline connecting the cape cities, should also be of interest, as it is home to more world-class luxury resorts than any other area of Los Cabos.

Why the location of your resort matters

Just as the time of year you choose to travel to Los Cabos affects the cost of accommodations so too does where one’s lodging of choice is located. According to the Los Cabos Tourism Board (Fiturca), the average daily room rate for a hotel or resort in Cabo San Lucas this June, as the slow season kicked off, was US $214. In San José del Cabo it was $286. Meanwhile, in the Tourist Corridor, it was $633 — more than double the cost of a room in either of the cape cities. 

These differences also hold true during the high season, even as accommodation costs are higher across the municipality. Why? Because each of these areas, by and large, specializes in certain types of lodgings. The Tourist Corridor, as mentioned, is a hub of beachfront luxury resorts. Cabo San Lucas, by contrast, offers far more budget-friendly alternatives in its city center, with a raft of all-inclusive resorts fronting its miles-long Médano Beach shoreline. All-inclusive properties are likewise common along the Playa Hotelera in San José del Cabo, with more boutique hotels available in its historic downtown district.

One&Only Palmilla
Los Cabos’ 20-mile-long Tourist Corridor is home to many notable luxury resorts, although few are as spectacular as grand dame resort One&Only Palmilla. (One&Only Palmilla)

So location impacts cost. It also influences the quality of your vacation. That’s because all these areas, although similar in some ways — all, for instance, boast gorgeous beaches — also have unique charms and offer certain distinctive attractions that add value to a vacation. 

Reasons to choose a resort in Cabo San Lucas

Cabo San Lucas not only has the cheapest accommodations in Los Cabos, on average, it’s also home to the biggest and most popular beach — two-miles-long Playa El Médano — and a series of picturesque beaches and evocative rock formations at Land’s End, which are gateways to great snorkeling and diving. Cabo San Lucas is also famous for its fishing. Its marina is the biggest in the area:  meaning there are plenty of charter boats and sunset sails to choose from.

But the one thing Cabo San Lucas has that you won’t find anywhere else in Los Cabos is great nightlife. Sure, it’s not as rowdy as it used to be. But there’s still Cabo Wabo Cantina and El Squid Roe, two legendary nightspots — and colorful bars and lounges proliferate throughout the Land’s End city.

Art Walk San José
San José del Cabo is the cultural capital of Los Cabos and hosts weekly seasonal events like Art Walk in its historic downtown Gallery District. (Art Walk San José)

The Tourist Corridor and its luxury resorts

Not every resort in the Tourist Corridor is luxurious. But this golden stretch is the setting for many of the best resorts in Los Cabos, including One&Only Palmilla, Las Ventanas al Paraíso, Esperanza and Chileno Bay (both Auberge Resorts), Montage Los Cabos and Grand Velas Los Cabos. The latter is a luxury all-inclusive, and one thing most resorts in the Tourist Corridor have in common is that you don’t need to leave the resort to have an incredible vacation. Great dining, drinking, swimming pools and beaches are available on-site. 

However, it’s worth pointing out that great shopping and dining are also available offsite along the Tourist Corridor: notably, at Shoppes at Palmilla and El Merkado. As for beaches, there are several Blue Flag beaches in the Tourist Corridor, including traditional favorites like Playa Chileno, Playa Santa María and Playa Palmilla.

The benefits of staying in San José del Cabo

San José del Cabo is the seat of local government and the cultural capital of Los Cabos. The city is renowned for its historic downtown Gallery District. It also boasts the best dining scene in the region, highlighted by the farm-to-table restaurants found just outside the city proper in Ánimas Bajas. The marina at Puerto Los Cabos facilitates many outdoor activities options, and Puerto Los Cabos is also home to world-class golf, as is Club Campestre. 

Hotel Palmas de Cortez
Hotel Palmas de Cortez, a long-time favorite on Los Cabos’ picturesque East Cape. (Van Wormer Resorts)

Why Los Cabos’ East Cape is an underrated vacation destination

No average room rate data is available for East Cape lodgings, likely since there are far fewer hotels here than in Cabo San Lucas, San José del Cabo or their connecting corridor. However, that’s likely to change as continued growth pushes development further up the coast. One major recent development on the East Cape, Costa Palmas, is home to a luxury Four Seasons property, with another from Amanvari scheduled to open in 2025.

Aside from this luxury development, East Cape hotels are generally smaller and more affordable than those elsewhere in Los Cabos. Since the communities on the East Cape are also more sparsely populated and see fewer tourists, visitors can get away from more crowded areas of Los Cabos and experience one of the great destinations in the world for outdoor activities. 

Thanks to its living reef and protected status, Cabo Pulmo is an amazing scuba diving destination. From November to March, Los Barriles is a mecca for windsports like kiteboarding. During the summer, beaches along the East Cape like Shipwrecks and Nine Palms offer superb surfing. And then there’s the world-class fishing that originally brought tourists to Buenavista and Los Barriles in the 1950s and still brings them, notably for Bisbee’s lucrative East Cape Offshore tournament.

Chris Sands is the Cabo San Lucas local expert for the USA Today travel website 10 Best, writer of Fodor’s Los Cabos travel guidebook, and a contributor to numerous websites and publications, including Tasting Table, Marriott Bonvoy Traveler, Forbes Travel Guide, Porthole Cruise, Cabo Living and Mexico News Daily. His specialty is travel-related content and lifestyle features focused on food, wine and golf.

Former President Zedillo slams Sheinbaum’s judicial overhaul in new op-ed

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A portrait of Ernesto Zedillo
Former President Ernesto Zedillo has been an outspoken critic of the current administration. (Andrea Murcia Monsivais/Cuartoscuro)

President Claudia Sheinbaum is fueling a “constitutional crisis” as she doubles down on her support for former President Andrés Manuel López Obrador’s “antidemocratic scheme,” former Mexican President Ernesto Zedillo asserted in an op-ed published by The Washington Post.

Zedillo, president from 1994 to 2000, writes early in his opinion essay that Sheinbaum was elected “to lead a democratic country,” but as president “appears committed to following her predecessor’s aim of reverting Mexico to a one-party autocracy, reminiscent of much of the 20th century, when competitive and fair elections were lacking and the judiciary was not independent.”

The former president represented the Institutional Revolutionary Party, or PRI, which ruled Mexico as a hegemonic political force for 71 years between 1929 and 2000.

In the Post, he writes that reforms enacted during his presidency allowed Mexico to become “a multiparty democracy with regular power alteration” and to have “an independent judiciary that has, on many occasions, upheld constitutional principles against reckless moves by other branches of government.”

Zedillo subsequently accuses the ruling Morena party of “using an unconstitutional interpretation of the electoral rules” and “appearing to buy the vote of a senator by promising him and his family impunity for serious crimes” in order to achieve a two-thirds majority in Congress that allowed it to approve the contentious judicial reform, the most controversial aspect of which is the provision allowing the direct election of all judges.

The 72-year-old ex-president asserts that the elected judges “will be neither independent nor competent” and notes that “the replacement of the judiciary is being framed as a democratic process, with judges to be elected by popular vote from lists of candidates.”

Mexico Supreme Court justices
Under the judicial overhaul, judges from the local level up to the Supreme Court would be elected, rather than appointed. (SCJN)

“This argument is preposterous, as the lists will effectively be determined by the ruling party,” he contends.

Later in his op-ed, Zedillo notes that the Supreme Court has been asked to review the constitutionality of the judicial reform, and argues that it has the right to do so — contrary to claims from government officials, including Sheinbaum.

“One of the court’s core missions is to verify the constitutionality of actions by other branches of government — a key purpose of the 1994 judicial reform,” he writes.

For her part, Sheinbaum said this week that Mexico’s top court doesn’t have the authority to legislate or to strike down a constitutional reform that “followed all the [legislative] processes that the Constitution establishes.”

Morena sought to reinforce that view — also expressed by Sheinbaum’s top legal adviser — with its so-called “constitutional supremacy” reform, which was passed by the Chamber of Deputies on Wednesday and promulgated by Sheinbaum on Thursday.

The reform, Zedillo observes, “aims to strip the court of its authority to review constitutional amendments passed by Congress.”

“This latest move has fully unmasked Morena: Its intent is to transform Mexico’s political regime into an authoritarian one,” he writes.

“Regrettably, Sheinbaum has doubled down on her support for AMLO’s antidemocratic scheme, even emulating his tactics of slandering, insulting and threatening both the judiciary as an institution and individual judges as well as others who have criticized the amendments. She is also advocating that the government ignore court rulings,” Zedillo continues.

“The constitutional crisis she is fueling will not deliver the good and democratic governance she was elected to provide,” says the ex-president.

Zedillo’s remarks are similar to those made by Justice Juan Luis González Alcántara Carrancá, who said on Friday that if the Supreme Court hands down a ruling against the judicial reform — which it could do next Tuesday — and the government doesn’t comply with it, “we will have a constitutional crisis and all Mexicans will have to absorb and suffer the consequences.”

Concluding his opinion piece, Zedillo asserts that Sheinbaum — who argues that the current judiciary is largely corrupt and needs to be renewed — should “use her mandate to halt the democratic regression orchestrated by AMLO” and “initiate a genuine and comprehensive process of reform to achieve true rule of law and citizens’ security in Mexico.”

“She could then improve enormously upon her predecessor’s poor performance. She must decide between honoring her loyalty to AMLO or to the Mexican people’s will to live in democracy,” he writes.

Zedillo’s full opinion piece appears on The Washington Post website

After another constitutional reform, what’s next for Mexico’s judicial system?

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Senate President Gerardo Fernández Noroña, of the Morena party, sits on a legislative dias in front of the words "La Patria Es Primera" as lawmakers argue behind him.
Senate President Gerardo Fernández Noroña, of the Morena party, presides over the ratification of the controversial "constitutional supremacy" amendment in late October. (Cuartoscuro)

President Claudia Sheinbaum on Thursday promulgated a constitutional reform that prevents legal challenges against constitutional amendments, such as Mexico’s recently enacted judicial reform.

The reform was promulgated via a decree published in the Official Gazette of the Federation (DOF) a day after the lower house of Congress approved the so-called “constitutional supremacy” bill.

A majority of Mexico’s 32 state legislatures promptly ratified the reform, allowing Sheinbaum to sign it into law in quick time.

The reform makes modifications to two articles of the Mexican Constitution.

Article 105 now states that constitutional challenges or “actions of unconstitutionality” that seek to dispute “additions or reforms to this Constitution” are “inadmissible.”

Article 107 now states that lawsuits “against additions or reforms” to the Constitution “will not proceed.”

Mexican senators in session all holding signs at their desks that says in Spanish "No to dictatorship in Mexico."
The current reform is a continuation of a political fight over the Morena party’s overhaul of the judiciary. (Cuartoscuro)

The decree published in the DOF also states that “matters that are in process must be resolved in accordance with the provisions contained in the present decree.”

The reform would appear to prevent Mexico’s Supreme Court (SCJN) from making a binding ruling on a proposal to strike down part of the judicial reform that was approved by Congress in September and signed into law by former president Andrés Manuel López Obrador two weeks before he left office.

Indeed, Morena took the reform proposal to Congress precisely to prevent the Supreme Court and other courts from handing down rulings against constitutional reforms.

Even though the reform has been approved and promulgated, heated debate over whether the SCJN has the right to hand down a binding ruling on the judicial reform and other constitutional reforms continues.

Under the proposal of Justice Juan Luis González Alcántara Carrancá — one of eight SCJN justices who submitted resignation letters to the Senate this week — only Supreme Court justices would be elected and all other judges would continue to be appointed.

The government is planning to hold elections in 2025 and 2027 at which Mexican citizens would directly elected thousands of local, state and federal judges. The National Action Party filed a lawsuit with the Supreme Court against the judicial reform that allows those elections to occur.

Despite the DOF decree stating that the “constitutional supremacy” reform applies to “matters that are in process,” Justice González asserted that justices can vote on his proposal next Tuesday as scheduled.

A portrait of Mexican Supreme Court Justice Juan Luis González Alcántara Carrancá with white beard and glasses
Justice Juan Luis González has proposed a compromise of sorts on the judicial reform, which the Supreme Court remains schedule to vote on this Tuesday. (SJCN/Cuartoscuro)

For her part, President Claudia Sheinbaum asserted this week that the Supreme Court doesn’t have the authority to legislate or to strike down a constitutional reform that “followed all the [legislative] processes that the constitution establishes.”

No judge can repeal a constitutional reform, says Morena leader  

Speaking on Thursday afternoon, Morena’s leader in the lower house of Congress, Deputy Ricardo Monreal, asserted that no judge, magistrate or Supreme Court Justice can hand down a ruling against a reform that has been approved by the Congress and subsequently ratified by state legislatures and promulgated by the president.

“It’s not valid. They don’t have jurisdiction, they don’t have authority … to do that. … What we did [with the ‘constitutional supremacy’ reform] is reaffirm what the Constitution already says [regarding] the unchallengeable nature, the inadmissibility of recourses and actions against reforms and additions to the Constitution,” said Monreal, who has a doctorate in constitutional law.

The Morena party leader claimed that the “constitutional supremacy” reform is the “most profound” reform “in the 200 years of the life of the country.”

He also said that the legal principle of non-retroactivity “is not observable in the case of constitutional reforms.

Monreal’s view is that as the “constitutional supremacy” reform applies retroactively, the Supreme Court is prevented from handing down a binding ruling on the judicial reform given that that the matter is already “in process.”

Ricardo Monreal at rally
Morena’s leader in the lower house of Congress, Ricardo Monreal, said Thursday that the judicial branch cannot rule against a constitutional reform that has already been approved, ratified and signed into law. (Pedro Anza/Cuartoscuro)

The Animal Político news website reported that in accordance with the “constitutional supremacy” reform, previous rulings against the judicial reform and “the project that Justice Juan Luis González Alcántara is proposing to declare unconstitutional the election by popular vote of judges and magistrates would have to be dismissed — that is to say suspended.”

On that point, González, and others, disagree.

González: ‘We will have a constitutional crisis’ if the government doesn’t comply with the SCJN’s ruling

During an interview with Grupo Fórmula on Friday, González was asked what would happen if the Supreme Court hands down a ruling against part of the judicial reform and the government refuses to comply with it.

“We will have a constitutional crisis and all Mexicans will have to absorb and suffer the consequences,” the justice said.

Eight of 11 justices would have to vote in favor of González’s proposal in order for the SCJN to hand down a ruling against the judicial reform provision allowing the direct election of virtually all Mexican judges. The eight justices who tendered their resignations this week to protest the government’s judicial overhaul remain on the court for now and appear likely to vote in favor of the proposal.

González said that non-compliance with a Supreme Court ruling against the judicial reform would relegate the rule of law in Mexico to “history books.”

Mexico Supreme Court justices
Eight of the country’s 11 Supreme Court justices tendered letters of resignation, effective next year. (SCJN)

He characterized his proposal to only allow the election of Supreme Court justices as a political-legal solution to the uncertainty and division created by the judicial reform.

“I believe that the president will have to reflect [on what to do], she has these days to do that, these days that are so important for the people of Mexico,” González said, referring to the period before the 11 justices will consider and make a ruling on his proposal on Tuesday.

The justice said that Sheinbaum “will have to reflect on the damage” not complying with a SCJN ruling “would cause to the institutions” and “the credibility” of Mexico as a country that respects the rule of law.

In a separate interview on Thursday, González said that non-compliance by the government with an SCJN ruling would have an impact on foreign investment in Mexico and “our relations with trade partners with whom we’ve established a series of international treaties and bilateral agreements.”

“The lives of all people would be affected,” he added.

González is not alone in saying that Mexico could be headed for a constitutional crisis.

Among others who have made the same or similar remarks is former Mexican president Ernesto Zedillo. In an opinion article published in The Washington Post on Friday, he wrote that Sheinbaum is “advocating that the government ignore court rulings” and “fueling” a constitutional crisis.

Analyst: González is trying to throw a ‘lifeline’ to the government  

During a panel discussion on a Mexican television program, analyst and writer Viri Ríos said that González is “trying to throw a lifeline to the governing coalition,” which includes Morena, the Labor Party and the Green Party.

“He’s proposing that the most difficult part [of the judicial reform] to implement, which would be the mass election of judges,  … not be implemented,” she said.

Ríos said that there is an argument in favor of the government taking that “lifeline” because it would remove the problems of “instability in the markets” and the “constant fight” with Mexico’s judiciary.

However, she argued that the government shouldn’t take the lifeline González is attempting to offer because it is a “poisoned lifeline.”

To accept the lifeline, Ríos said, the government would have to accept that it is allowing the Supreme Court to “strike down constitutional reforms” — which various officials, including Sheinbaum, argue it doesn’t have the power to do.

“That’s what it’s about. I think that is very dangerous because this is basically putting democracy in the hands of 11 people and going from being a democratic electoral system to being a system that appears much more like a judicial aristocracy,” she said.

With reports from Reforma, Radio Fórmula, La Jornada, Milenio, El Financiero and Animal Político